Buy snow Monemvasia

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Buy snow Monemvasia

We stroll up the steep lanes of the small fishing village of Kiveriou in search of a small kiosk. Craig is in need of some tobacco papers. As we slowly wander, the aroma of freshly baked orange and anise biscuits drifts from one of the small houses. An old lady carefully places her tray of biscuits on the veranda table to cool. Gosh they smell divine. By lunch time, we were hugging the coast road all the way to the village of Astros. We parked on the far side of town and right on the beach with two swaying palm trees to keep us company. But somehow, the beach never quite looks the same on a windy and overcast day. In the afternoon, we pop Mac n Tosh in to the cycle bags and go for a ride. By early afternoon, the cool boardwalks to the pebbly beach are all but deserted with just a few hardened locals pacing the planks in their hoodies and big scarfs. A few trendy cafes remain open enticing the odd passing trade with a few chill out tunes and ambient lighting. The octopus bruschetta and aubergine chips smell divine and. As we cycle back we spot a few sun loungers wedged among the pebbles, perfectly positioned for the sunset. On a rickety chair at the far end of the beach, someone had scrawled cosmote edo mobile signal here. We check out the iPad to see if we can pinch a free wifi spot but the signal is too weak. By the time we reach Vin the wind has picked up and we feel the first few specks of rain. The sea surf has picked up too and the waves are crashing on the beach. We briskly pack away the bikes and batten down the hatches just before the gale and lashing rain pounds poor Vin. Our sleepy spot: On a really nice stretch of sandy beach at the far side of Astros with easy access to fresh water and portable beach loo. The next day, the convoy arrives just in time for the morning sunshine. We met each other back in Nafplion and as we are all travelling the same way we thought we might share some time together. We have a fabulous day walking the dogs on the beach, sipping coffee, swimming in the sea, laughing and just having fun. The boys Craig, Louis and Aaron went in search of wood for the evening fire pit via the local taverna, whilst us girls stayed at home on the the beach and talked about real stuff. After a morning natter and recovering from the shock that Trump is now President of America, we all took the dogs for a walk. Up and down the beach and jumping in an out the waves. The sea was still quite rough with plenty crashing waves, so Mac n Tosh struggled to get passed the foaming surf but they had a good go. By lunchtime the weather changed and dark clouds moved in from the East. We all packed up and decided to head down the coast. We are all heading towards Monemvasia, so no doubt we will bump in to each other along the way. We hugged the coast and wound our way south along the peninsula until we reached the town of Leonidiou. As soon as we saw the signs for the town we looked for an alternative road. Margit and Neil had warned us about this place, so we searched high and low. But around here…all roads lead to Leonidiou. Oh no! Looks like we will have to suck it and see. We snuggly slipped in to the town to be greeted by a bull dozer and a big hole in the road. We took a right and followed the flow. We stopped and started ever 2 seconds as cars inched their way passed us on the tiny one way system. At times we literally had millimetres to spare. But in the middle, we ground to a halt. We were way too big to fit through the gap. Not a cat in hells chance of getting through. Nothing for it, reverse. A gear not best used when you have a few dozen Greek cars up your rear. Arms waved and rosemary beads rolled but slowly we managed to get unstuck. We tried another lane but nah, that too was too small and after several other lanes we had no bloody idea where we were. We were lost and stuck in the middle of a maze with a load of non to happy Greeks. Next minute, blue flashing light appeared and a Greek police car pulled up. He smiled and said just follow me. Sirens and lights galore we followed our police escort through the lanes and over a dried river bed to the other side of Leonidiou. Once out of the maze we thanks the police and we were on our way. Our chances of staying in Leonidiou were shattered, so we moved on to the next coastal village of Poulithra and parked on the harbour. An absorbing little place to wander around and we did nothing more than enjoy the atmosphere. The narrow streets behind the sea front feature the everyday scenes of a small fishing village with locals stocking up on news and necessities, and stores catering to their every conceivable need, from steel drums to wooden saddles, seed to pick-up trucks. Even in winter, the unassuming little harbour, there is the unmistakable perfume of sizzling calamari and olive oil. It is early afternoon, we stroll along the warm coastal path to the pebbly beach and the dudes dive straight to the edge of the sea. They play chasing pebbled and sticks whilst I kick the sand between my toes. But not for long, a storm arrives within a flash and we dash for shelter and Vin takes a battering from the wind and lashing sea waves. The storm passed in the night and today all is calm. We watch them prise open their sea urchins and with their ocean hardy hands and salty fingers. Poulithra is way below the main road, so we wind our way out of the narrow village on to dozens of dusty hairpin bends. Within the space of 10km we had climbed from sea level to m. What a view! We continued along the partly asphalted road that leads via more alarming hairpin bends, to a very picturesque rocky cove lapped by a turquoise sea. From the cove, the track climbs inland to the mountains and we loose sight of the coastal waters. We drive in to the dense green hills and continue our ascent to over meters. At the peak, we travel along the ridge until a valley appears like a wide crater. Despite last nights storm the river beds are still dry and you can see the arid veins meander down to the valley floor. The terraced slopes with their little stone walls are covered in bare olive trees with the exception of a few. The farmers continue to reap the remains of this years crop and tidy up the terraces in readiness for winter. We meander through the valley to the other side. We pass characterful farmhouses and decide to stop for lunch at the hamlet of Mari. A true step back in time with ancient fresh water springs and vibrant green moss pools. We stand on the bridge and watch a packhorse, fully loaded, followed by two men pick its way through the overgrown and dense field. Later two cows and half a dozen dogs slowly emerge from the undergrowth. One dog yaps and all eyes turn to the steep rock as a flock of goats come jangling down for a drink. The road from Mari to the coast winds like a piece of sticky spaghetti, across the valley and then steeply downhill to the most perfect Greek rock with an ancient village you are ever likely to visit. There are magnificent medieval walls, towers, cobbled lanes, arched passages, stairs, and views over the ocean. It is pure Greek Heaven. For the next 10 days we did not let Monemvasia out of our sight. We spent the majority of our time parked on Gefyra harbour looking out to the rock with our Dutch and English friends by our side. In terms if motorhome servicing, we had everything we needed from free electric, fresh water and a nearby drain. The local police and harbour police patrolled the site daily and were very friendly and chatty. Our stay was welcomed. For wash day, we moved down the coast about 10km to an isolated beach. In the main our weather was sunny and warm but we did have a few wild stormy days and by the time we left, the easterly wind was cutting. So whats it all about? Well Monemvasia is Greeks answer to Gibraltar but better. You can access the rock from the fishing village of Gefyra via a small causeway. We stayed on Gefyra harbour because our little patch provided the most sensational sunrise views over the amazing Monemvasia rock. The village of Gefyra has that raw elemental appeal and an intense tranquillity, this time of year there are more locals that tourists, so the atmosphere is just authentic. Pretty compact village with just a few villas tucked in among the terraced hills and a handful of shops, restaurants and hotels. The clear blue waters are teaming with fish but for us, the daily turtle visit provided an intriguing sunset attraction. In the morning, we can never quite resist stopping at the family run bakers for a fresh crusty loaf or a chocolate croissant. The sweets are to die for with nougat wafers, bergamot sugar paste and addictive almond cookies shaped like Roman noses. The sign over the bakers says established in and everything is still cooked in wooden ovens or in old fashioned copper pots. Through a small hatch you can just see the kitchen, where the spindly father crimps dozens of bourekia — ground almonds, cloves, cinnamon and honey wrapped in pastry then drenched in icing sugar. I could stand in the shop for hours and just watch him with his precise movements perfected over a lifetime. Here the local group of wise men would gather every evening and put the worlds to rights. Sipping Ouzo or wine until dawn and enjoying a feast of dandelion and feta pies or a simple Greek salad before stumbling into home to bed. We enjoyed many an evening meal in the local taverna. Our nights, spent devouring plates of gyros or aromatic souvlaki, plates of grilled meat or just a Greek salad. Our time at the beach provided views of blue sky and sea and in the distance, a brilliant white village cascading over a distant hilltop. Just before sunset, an old chap trundles over to nearby rocks and starts to fumble. I walk over to watch. Munching on raw garlic gloves he pulls out a large octopus. He chatters away in Greek and I nod in agreement. I am mesmerised as he starts to prepare his octopus. First he smacks it several times on a smooth, flat rock and then he takes it to a rough, jagged rock. Here he drags the octopus over rock until it starts to foam. He occasionally washes away the foam with sea water and then continues to drag over the rocks. When the octopus is tender he shoves it in a plastic bag, gives me the biggest warm smile, waves cheerio and tootles off home. The sunset sky pulls our attention to the bottom of the headland, the blue and red dome of a lighthouse dangling above an emerald cove. As the light fades, it provides a great back drop for the super moon, what a place to share a rare astrological event. Day after day, I walked over the causeway to the rock and wandered along every pathway and every alley, I loved it and so did Mac n Tosh. Everything feels deliciously remote, yet we are just a few hours drive from the capital Athens. The fortified town is built on two levels — lower and top section. In 15th century, the town housed around 50, inhabitants and enjoyed a semi autonomous state. It was never taken by force but it fall under siege. The lower town is a myriad of wonderful cobbled alleys with tiny houses stacked on top of each other with a few shops, cafes and churches for tourists to wander around. The majority of the lower section in inhabited with odd handmade hotel sign leading to a small cluster of renovated properties. A pathway that winds up above the town and leads you through the gates open to the top section of the rock. From here you can wind you way through the ruins of the upper town and stunning views ft above sea level of the surrounding ocean and landscape. It is stunning, amazing and in many ways surreal. There are lots of small trails to wander off the beaten track and being out of season, it was easy to find a secluded spot to sit and just soak up the views. Each day, I managed to find a spot even better than the last. It was so peaceful and beautiful, I often found myself drifting in to day dreams and waking to the odd tear, it was just stunning. I have found that the best time to people watch is mid afternoon, when giggling children race through the tangle of alleys, grandmothers gossip on steps lined with geraniums and old men forage for capers, their purple flowers bursting out of cracks in the stone walls. On Saturday evening, everyone hits Monemvasia, the rock turns in a lively hill top, for a night out. Popular with weekend retreats and chill out breaks, stylish couples don on their leather thigh high boots and designer jeans and clamber through the narrow lane that snakes through town. A few trendy bars have sprung up on rooftops and terraces, but simple chic Greek tavernas are at the heart of the action. In the middle, an old-time cafe where locals have been chewing the fat and knocking back rakomelo warm grappa with honey, cinnamon and cloves. Monemvisia will always have a special place in my heart but not just because of the location, the views and the architecture but because it allowed me time to think. I have laughed, cried and wondered why as life twist and turns. My sister is looking after her but I feel so helpless and feel I need to offer support to mum and my sister. I keep thinking do I go home or do I continue with our plans and slowly head home for March time? Distance is not a great place when all you want to do is hold someone in your arms, hug them tight and be there to protect them. Tomorrow is a new day and a new destination, where will we head to, not sure. For now we will keep with the plans and monitor the situation day by day. Cheers guys! The easterly winds are damn cold and slowly picking up speed, so we are probably going to head to the west coast or inland until the winds die down. Oh nearly forgot…check out our 1st guest post and watch this space as we have quite a few over the coming weeks! This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. As usual great to read about the places you visit with their ups and downs Ins and outs all add up to a great adventure great photos as always especially with a Box Brownie lol. Really glad to hear we will see you before Christmas just wish it was under better circumstances, Hope your Mum is feeling better before you get here please keep us posted. We miss you loads and the dogs, Beau will be bouncing when they meet again lots of love Michele and Dad. The Peloponnese was without doubt our favourite area on our recent maiden trip. Dear Joanne, your post is wonderful and touched me very much , the pictures you have posted of the area are beautiful and make me want to go there now , my heart goes out to you having family so far away when health issues arrive it is so very hard to deal with , knowing what to do for the best is difficult. Sending you a big hug x. Dementia is such a hard thing to watch been there — yes, of course you need to hug your Mum but most of all you and your sister need to hug each other because at the end of the day you two will remember but…. In the end you will make the right decision for you and your loved ones Good luck Ann. Thank you Ann, For many years I looked after my mum and we are very close. When I fly home every few months I cant wait to see her. I have put all sorts of things in place for her, to help as up until now she has lived independently. Unfortunately she is now at the stage where she forgets to cook etc. I have a wonderful sister and between us we laugh, cry and muggle through. Thank you x x x. We have now added Greece to our places to travel when we break our ties with employment. Cheers Chris and Ann, we wondered for a long time about Greece because it is so far away.. Another great post. Being wedged in a labrynth of laneways surrounded by irate locals would be my idea of hell. Sorry to hear about your family problems — dementia is a cruel affliction. Encyclopaedia Brittanica? The Eggheads? Who needs stuff like that when one can have offerings like this? Keep on keeping on, and enjoy your time on the road. Best of luck to the four of you, stay safe. Nick, what lovely comments and you sure cheered me up no end. So glad you enjoyed it and trust me, you have plenty to look forward to on your trip. Greece is made for motorhomes x. Mac n Tosh you seem to be enjoying the Greek life style good on yer ,I bet it quite a surprise meeting up with Dutch Couple again. You have outdone yourselves with these photos! Getting stuck in a tiny Greek town in a too-big vehicle is something we have experience with! Your solution was more exciting than ours! Thank you, yeah getting stuck in a Greek village is one of the hazards but looking back, all good fun. Parked in virtually the same spot. Same boats, same positions — even the same green bucket on the largest, masted boat in the harbour! Very sorry to hear about your Mum Jo. Dementia is hard — for everyone. Hopefully the calm and peace of the Peloponnese can comfort you. Yeah, some villages seem stuck in time, which is what adds to the Greek appeal. Thank you for your kind words x. Got an error message this morning, so just tried the link again. Yip, think we could play snap with that Peter. Dear Joanne, what a beautiful post, so well written and great pictures. And a moving end … It is hard for us to give advice but our hearts go out to you and your family! Wish you lots of strength! Read your guest post too: wonderful. Sunrise under a canopy of cloud. Coastline views. Our sleepy spot. Our Dutch friends arrive. Sleep Spot. In to the hills. Hamlet of Mari Mari fresh water springs All roads lead to the sky Local wild life. Parking at Mari Church. Our harbour sleep spot at sunrise. The village of Gefyra. Chimney pots. Share this: Facebook Pinterest Twitter Email. Tell us what you think Cancel reply. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

Monemvasía: the Greek Gibraltar

Buy snow Monemvasia

It is fair to say that the best way to get around the Peloponnese is by car — and this is from an ardent public transport user when in Greece. The whole driving on the other side of the road is not a good match to my terrible sense of direction and in my mind, bodes disaster. Anyway, where there is a will there is a way and there is a direct bus from Athens to Monemvasia. We are travelling the day before Good Friday and already the mass exodus of Greeks heading back to their home towns and villages has begun. They only become available about a month before the travel date so I made sure that I checked every day when the tickets for my date of travel went live. From the Epidavros Hotel the bus stop for the number 51 bus to Kiffisou Bus Station is just around the corner. Remember to purchase your bus ticket before getting on the bus as I believe the fine for none purchase or non validation of tickets on the bus can be quite steep. We can count the number of people who validated their ticket on this packed bus on one hand! About 20 minutes later we arrive at Kiffisou Bus Station where we swap our printed receipt for the bus tickets. We prepare ourselves mentally for the five and a half hour trip to Monemvasia. We were pretty sure that there would be a break half way through the journey and guessed this would be at Tripoli bus station. Oh oh! No not the case. This was the break in the journey but by the time we realised we were on our way again. Not to worry — we have strong bladders! Thankfully the landscape that we drive through is hypnotically beautiful. On both sides we are surrounded by mountains of all sizes and shapes. Some are snow capped and some velvety green. Along the roadside there are orange and olive groves as far as the eye can see and the orange blossom is sucked in through the air conditioning filling our nostrils with the sweet scent. As we passed through Sparta, we are taken by the magnificent snow capped mountain range that towers over the town. As we approach Monemvasia, we see the rock in the distance — even through the haze that has covered Athens and this part of Greece for the last few days. The bus drops us off directly next to the beginning of the causeway that takes us up to the castle walls. After the kilometre journey and five and a half hours sitting on a bus it is good to get out and stretch our legs. We start heaving our suitcases over the causeway and up the slope to the castle entrance. This takes us a good half an hour — I had truly underestimated the effort it was going to take. A lady passing us in the opposite direction tells us that there is a bus. Oh well — too late now as we are nearly there. We later discover that there is a shuttle bus from the causeway to the castle entrance that leaves every thirty minutes at the cost of 1. Looking at the Google Maps timeline of our bus journey, you can see the key checkpoints we passed through to get to Monemvasia namely Corinth, Tripoli, Sparti and Moloi. We step through the castle gate and follow the cobble stoned street to a small office where we have to telephone our arrival. This office serves a couple of the hotels and they will give you directions. We are staying at the Malvasia Hotel, formerly known as the Bastion Malvasia and it is the last hotel along this main street. We pass several porters who transport luggage and goods to the hotels and restaurants as no vehicles can pass through the castle gate. After checking in at reception we are shown to our room, one of several buildings set into the rocks with the Kastro towering above us. We are shown the dining space for breakfast which is a few steps down into a building on the other side of the cobbled street. We have to construct a makeshift washing line to get it dry and thankfully our building is in full sun! Talk about airing your dirty laundry! The first thing to notice is the abundance of spring flowers everywhere — and I mean everywhere. Purple campanula type flowers sprouting out of the walls, poppies and varieties of daisies carpet the floor. The aroma of mint, aniseed and chamomile fill the air. Most striking are the tall plants that look like a bulbous type of fennel which grow like mini trees on the hillsides. Note to self — learn more about the flora and fauna of Greece! Looking out over the town I can see that there is almost a muted palette of stone — shades of yellow ochre, burnt umber, grey and in places a tinge of pink that matches the terracotta pan tile roofs — all blending into the landscape perfectly. No garish colours here! The town is staggered into various levels. There is a pathway that takes you alongside the rocks that spill into the sea. On the next level up cobbled alleyways snake in and around houses that have an unusual architecture with chimney stacks built on the outside of the building topped in characterful chimney pots. You get the sense of being between the defensive castle walls at each end of the town. There are two main squares that sit in front of the two larger churches — EIkomenos Christos and Panagia Chrysafitissa. It is at Elkomenos Christos that the main Easter festivities will take place and where the Epitaphios is housed. Several bars and tavernas are set in and around this area and I do wonder how they will accommodate all of the visitors to the rock. Above this there is the middle village nestled into the foothill of the towering cliff above and from where a couple of paths lead up to the Kastro. Once unpacked we walked along the cobbled path to the main square to look for somewhere for dinner. We see steps down to Matoula Restaurant which offers great views across the bay. Matoula is one of the oldest restaurants in Monemvasia having been in business since After all that bus travel without a snack we are more than ready for a delicious meal washed down with some retsina! Elafonissos really is about the beaches. Close to Kalomoira Apartments are a couple of really nice beaches that can be overshadowed by Simos and Lefki Beaches but they deserve the status of an excellent, white sand beach up there with the…. Most mornings I will bump into my host Christos along the main road as he makes his way from home to Eleni Studios. My arrival on Kalymnos brought me to my fifth week of this particular journey. However, something strange was happening. Nonetheless, what I initially described as a bit of homesickness,…. Note: this is part of a trip that I started writing up in I lost many of my images during a hard drive failure but thankfully still have enough left to remind of this trip. We started the day with an amazing breakfast. The lady that picked us up from the port introduces herself to us as Matoula. When we came down she was already preparing our breakfast in the small kitchen off the courtyard. She brought us a generous spread of boiled eggs, bread with jam and honey, cheese,…. I had hoped to find out what I can see and do in my short 3 nights here. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Skip to content. Monemvasia - April Sparta - April Like this: Like Loading Previous Previous. Next Continue. Similar Posts. Close to Kalomoira Apartments are a couple of really nice beaches that can be overshadowed by Simos and Lefki Beaches but they deserve the status of an excellent, white sand beach up there with the… Share this post: Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window Click to share on WhatsApp Opens in new window Click to share on Pinterest Opens in new window. Nonetheless, what I initially described as a bit of homesickness,… Share this post: Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window Click to share on WhatsApp Opens in new window Click to share on Pinterest Opens in new window. She brought us a generous spread of boiled eggs, bread with jam and honey, cheese,… Share this post: Click to share on Twitter Opens in new window Click to share on Facebook Opens in new window Click to share on WhatsApp Opens in new window Click to share on Pinterest Opens in new window. Let me know what you think. Home Blog Posts Toggle child menu Expand.

Buy snow Monemvasia