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We leave San Pedro de Atacama with rain clouds gathering. Snow has fallen to the east causing the road to Argentina and Bolivia to be closed. We could not have proceeded in that direction even if we wanted too. We have decided to move out of Chile and get into Peru. We seem to have ridden endlessly through the Atacama desert in its various forms and we both feel like a change of scenery. Cold and rain we have not experienced for many months. We realise that in the 8 months on the road traveling, this is only the 8th day of rain! While our trip timing was to avoid the wet seasons as far as possible, I think we have done exceptionally well. A recent comment on the blog noted that we only seem to have pictures with blue skies and sunny days and was that a reflection on how we feel? The answer is yes, we are always happier on blue sky days and while the occasional cosy grey day makes a change, blue skies are our natural habitat. Rain is waiting for us — we can see how much snow has fallen overnight in the distance. While we press on through the rain, which is unusual for this very arid region, we have to count ourselves lucky that we have missed the worst of the flooding in the Atacama, which is playing out in towns we passed through and stayed at less than a week ago. At each fuel stop we are greeted with a TV screen showing the devastation that such extreme weather for this region is doing. In desert regions, towns cannot justify stormwater drainage systems and when rivers overflow there is nowhere for the water to flow but into houses and businesses. Power and communications are cut to the north of Chile, some cities are without power and the damage to roads will be extensive. Where we stopped for lunch — chicken is out so it was only boiled rice and fresh tomatoes — nice change from canned tuna and dry crackers. Every petrol stop and restaurant is showing the destruction currently unfolding in Northern Chile. Despite the wet conditions, which improve as we get further north, we make good progress towards our coastal destination of Iquique. Salar de Pintados national park. Iquique was the location of our first real negative encounter with locals and a salutary reminder of how a series of events can lead to a confrontational situation without the intent of either party to reach that position. It happened in a car park, the details are irrelevant now, but being told to reverse over two speed humps with no room to maneuver or help and about 15 cars hooting at us or for us, we are not sure left us leaving Iquique with a bad taste. From time to time, as we have headed north on Ruta 5, our path has been crossed by dry riverbeds that have necessitated the road to make a small detour from its path to make the crossing. As we depart towards Arica we can see on the map two significant canyons running to the Pacific Ocean that require detours of 20 to 30 km to cross. The first is the Quebrada de Chiza which provides a magnificent decent to the canyon floor. Here we encounter some of the strongest and unpredictable crosswinds, caused by wind funneling up from the ocean via the Quebrada de Camarones, we have ever ridden in. We were protected to an extent on the 20 plus kilometer decent, but on the canyon floor we are fully exposed. While we are used to persistent wind in our travels, being in the canyon brings extra hazards. Anne is swept from her lane across the oncoming lane to the start of the hard shoulder and then back again like a giant wind slap. There is nothing we can do except hang on as stopping is not an option or you would definitely be blown over and keep going. Luckily traffic is light. The power of nature is always to be respected and here, nature was reminding us of that. We were glad to make the customs post at Cuya and then hug the canyon wall as we climbed out on the other side. Not something we would like to repeat. Before heading down into Quebrade Chiza canyon. Camarones valley. San Marcos de Arica church designed by Gustave Eiffel. A short ride of about half an hour from Arica sees us at our first border crossing in a month. The luxury that people in the European Union have of just driving across the border without stopping does not exist here. We have found that the information available on the web can very quickly become out of date and therefore the timing and requirements have changed. As usual the actual crossing details are recorded in over Visas and Borders section. Suffice to say that the only unusual aspect of this crossing is going to the cafe cashier to purchase a multi copy form needed for the crossing process. Very helpful people on both the Chilean and Peruvian sides sees the process over in about two hours, fairly normal for us, plus the border was not too crowded. Peruvian border post at Santa Rosa. Across from the SOAT building, this lovely lady gave us a piece of cake to go with our cold drinks. I have had the same chain since the journey started and it has covered over 25, kilometres with the occasional adjustment. I am now having to do almost daily adjustments as the stretching has accelerated significantly and it really rattles by the end of the day. We will need a new chain and sprocket set in Lima. The weight and bulk of the parts meant that we do not carry those spares, but there is a reasonable BMW Motorrad network in the capital cities we pass through. Post navigation We leave San Pedro de Atacama with rain clouds gathering. Coastal clouds south of Iquique. On our way down into Iquique. Iquique tsunami warning sign. Plaza Prat de Iquique. Riding down towards Arica. 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Buy snow Iquique

Before we get into the places of interest in and around Iquique, which is further below, we feel we should explain a little about the history of this city, because this leads to the places of interest today. Iquique developed into an established settlement when it was first under Peruvian administration, later under Bolivian control and ultimately part of Chile. The reason this location was of such importance, at that time, was due to the demand for the mineral deposits in the area. This discovery made Iquique a valuable piece of real estate for any country able to claim it and Peru, Bolivia and Chile all had an interest to have Iquique, and this part of the Atacama, within their national boundaries. The location of the city was also sought after because it had a natural harbour enabling ships to transport mined cargo to markets around the world. Iquique, along with the northern sector of the Atacama became part of Chile after Chile won the War of the Pacific, between Chile and Bolivia on the 21 May , thus enabling it to get control of the entire northern sector of the Atacama Desert, which included the main coastal cities such as Iquique. However, textbooks state that the War of the Pacific ran from to and this is because after the success of Bolivia, Peru tried to wrestle the territory from Chile, but Chile then defeated Peru a few years later. The economic consequence of Chile winning this war, and gaining a massive swathe of the Atacama, meant that it now inherited a land bestowed in sought after minerals. However, rather than run the mining operations as a national industry the Chilean government encouraged private companies to come in and extract and process the minerals, whilst the Chilean government applied a tax on exports from whence it derived its main, national income. Therefore, naturally, the established British companies continued with their mining operations after the War of the Pacific. However, the Brits were also involved in the construction and establishment of the railway and electrical networks required for transport and urbanisation. At the end of World War 1, Germany invented a synthetic nitrate fertilizer, which was significantly cheaper than mining the mineral, making it uneconomical to continue mining nitrate in northern Chile. This reality was then compounded by the Great Depression, which resulted in major decline of the main nitrate mining industry in Chile. One, if you fancy a summer break on the beach although it can become quite busy , or by the pool of your hotel. The city is located only km miles south of the Tropic of Capricorn , therefore, in the summer there is a slight tropical feeling to the place. The other reason is to see the period houses from the mining days as well as visit the mining ghost town of Humberstone more about this below. And, possibly, one other reason, if you happen to be here, is to shop in the tax-free shopping area called a zofre. However, even though it is tax free, many of the goods have high prices, so it is not as bargain rich as one might imagine. Iquique today is a busy city. It offers sandy beaches with palm trees, whereupon the Pacific Ocean water is at a more agreeable temperature than it is further south. Therefore, it can be said that a beach break here is one attraction. This is located about 45km east from Iquique city, in the Atacama Desert. It is a small settlement that was completely and intelligently planned out. Between and the population grew to 3, inhabitants. What is also interesting to observe is that the workers houses were, as is the case today, smaller than, and closer to one another, compared to the houses where the management lived. You need to allow a few hours to casually walk around. In two nitrate works were established close to one another. Both places grew quickly, and the settlements were built in the English style. The area saw other nitrate mines open, and ownership change, in line with the change in the economic viability of mining nitrate according to the rise and fall of demand. But, it was when a synthetic fertiliser was invented in Germany at the end of World War 1, together with the World Wide Economic Depression that really curtailed the nitrate mining boom. And, with modernization and new processing methods that made extraction economically viable, in Humberstone became a very successful operation once again. However, this renaissance lasted only until around and then once again it was not profitable. This led to the settlement being deserted in , whereupon it became a ghost town. In addition to the historical and beach aspects to Iquique there are geoglyphs, petroglyphs and rock paintings at various locations outside the city, as well as the Volcan Isluga National Park in the Andes — but this is far away and at altitude. We would suggest that a trip to only Iquique, if restricted on time with your itinerary, is NOT a good idea, however, if you have the time and can combine a visit here with San Pedro de Atacama then yes, a couple or three nights at Iquique would be worthwhile. Alternatively, if you want a few days at the beach, and by the hotel pool to relax under the hot summer sun, then that too would be a good reason to come here maybe at the end of your trip. We are distinguished partners with the Australis, Skorpios and Navimag ship companies. In each case we offer accommodation on board their vessels as stand-alone reservations or as part of your wider travel itinerary. Each ship offers the opportunity to experience Patagonia from the sea and see exactly what the pioneer sailors saw when they ventured upon these parts hundreds of year ago: pristine forests, snow-covered mountains, fiords, glaciers, marine fauna and uninhabited islands. We both turned 60 years old in so we wanted to celebrate by proving to ourselves we were still fit enough to do this kind of trip. We had a great time and the weather was perfect. Our philosophy is to offer you an experience. Not just a holiday, not just a travel plan, but a life experience. We do this by creating travel itineraries that incorporate destinations, hotels and services that are special, that we know will offer you a memorable travel memory. Please supply us with as much information as you can about where you want to go, what you want to do, what you want to experience and how much money you want to spend or do not want to spend! How many people, what type of beds matrimonial, twin, single etc. Iquique, Northern Atacama Desert, Chile. Introduction Before we get into the places of interest in and around Iquique, which is further below, we feel we should explain a little about the history of this city, because this leads to the places of interest today. Enquire Here for Custom Itineraries. Iquique Brief History Iquique developed into an established settlement when it was first under Peruvian administration, later under Bolivian control and ultimately part of Chile. Iquique Iquique today is a busy city. Humberstone History In two nitrate works were established close to one another. Other Things of Interest In addition to the historical and beach aspects to Iquique there are geoglyphs, petroglyphs and rock paintings at various locations outside the city, as well as the Volcan Isluga National Park in the Andes — but this is far away and at altitude. We Suggest We would suggest that a trip to only Iquique, if restricted on time with your itinerary, is NOT a good idea, however, if you have the time and can combine a visit here with San Pedro de Atacama then yes, a couple or three nights at Iquique would be worthwhile. Share this With best wishes for the new year. Name First Last. Please select Max. Custom Itinerary. Email This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Buy snow Iquique