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Hello cherished readers, friends and family. With reading week, I know some of you are off an adventures of your own! Time is flying by! With only a few short months left to go, we are trying to make the most of the mundane, practice gratitude for the many blessings around us here, and enjoy the company of our Ghanaian family. Much to look forward to, and much to leave behind. Mostly good, but I can say with confidence it will be good riddance to the heat. I have never appreciated all the wonderful people in my life as much as this year when separated by a sea. The head and the heart song rivers and roads still tears me up every time. Thanks to each and every one of you for your constant support from afar. For all the emails, pictures, phone calls and well wishes, we are so so grateful. Here are a few pictures from the last week. Being so close to the ocean continues to be a blessing! We are starting to dream of our lives in Nova Scotia. Feet on the forest floor at Bethany, eyes over the Antigonish landing, the feeling of exhilaration when our bodies experience the shock of the Atlantic. The feeling of home is a funny thing. Of course, family at finger length makes it all the more wondeful. Sending love and sunny rays! Ghana is home to a wide array of musical genres and styles. Everything from age-old traditional drumming and singing, to contemporary high life, hip life, hip hop, reggae, gospel, and more! All of which brings enough energy to get you out of your seat. The people of Ada, and Ghana more broadly, are extremely musical people. In homes, in compounds, in community airwaves and on the radio, Ghanaians are no strangers to vocal inspiration. Oh no-in fact, at a church service I attended with Auntie Emily last week, there was a full 90 minutes of singing! With a full band, several group and solo vocalists, and the majority of the congregation dancing around the church hall. Ghanaians are not shy to share their musical talents. Rather, Ghanaians seem to have a bold sense of courage that inspires the spontaneous lyrical melodies from their mouths. Alongside the constant rhythms and beats that fill the streets and trotros of Ada, Matt and I have been extremely fortunate to be able to take in 2 live shows over December and January. The first, featured Ghanaian reggae artist Rocky Dawuni, as well as up and coming hip-life artist, Wiyalla, reigning from Northern Ghana. Both were great performances, but Wiyalla stood out for me. Rocking her local language Dagbani , and bringing a fierce feminine energy to the stage-challenging conventional gender norms with her sexualized lyrics and dance-she was an incredible dancer and singer, and all around energetic performer. Dawuni was great too, and certainly got me up on the dance floor, reminded me of my New Zealand days chasing Katchafire around the North Island. The second concert featured about a dozen artists, with Northern legend King Ayisoba headlining the night. It was actually the annual batakari festival , a celebration of music, dance, clothing, and food. Batakari smocks are hand woven using indigenous methods, and are of extremely high quality. The fabric is beautiful, cozy, and quite pricy today in a market with access to imported fabrics, but also with the industrial production of fabric in Ghana driving the prices down. One of the performers highlighted the economic ripple effect of buying batakari- with all stages of production keeping money inside the Ghanaian economy and supporting the livelihoods of rural artisans keeping indigenous practices alive. Look awesome, feel comfortable, support the local economy? Both concerts were held at the Alliance Francaise in Accra, an arts and cultural centre focussed on promoting and teaching the French language, but also about sharing cultural activities, such as music, dance, art, photography, writing, and food. They have a pretty hip outdoor concert space with 2 stages, a restaurant and bar, and a local chop bar too. When we went in December, we even met hip life artist Wiyalla having her dinner before the show! Also, there is one incredible cultural practice that I must share, but unfortunately have no pictures of. You had chiefs, men, and women, walking confidently on stage up to the artists King Ayisoba especially and throwing up bill after bill after bill of Ghana cedis. Pretty cool way to show respect! Just like farming, mining activities are an important part of the resource based economy in Ghana. However, there are thousands of registered small scale mines harvesting bauxite, manganese, and diamonds. There are thousands of small scale miners, or artisanal miners, as well as large industrial scale Ghanaian companies, and a number of international mining companies with investments in Ghana. Over the decades, there have been countless social and political disputes over access to mineral resources in the ground. There have also been violent conflicts in communities on the ground; corporate and state violence against the people, lives lost. Beyond human violence, toxic mining waste has caused irreversible damage to water bodies and farmland. When we think of mining, what first comes to mind is often gold, silver, and diamonds. Recently however, is has entered the national discourse in Ghana, and was the focus of this years national forum on mining issues. Radio Ada was one of the stakeholder organizations working with the National Coalition on Mining NCOM to organize this annual event in Sege, the district capital of Dangme West, roughly an hours drive from our home in Ada. By association, I gained invaluable insight and experience into the planning process of this annual forum, and the importance of having front line communities lead the discussion and give voice to the issues. It was pretty exciting to have the national spotlight on small scale salt winners of Ada, especially after getting to know so many women, for whom salt winning is their primary livelihood. For the last 3 decades, artisanal salt miners in Ada have been further and further excluded from having a voice over the resource development of the Songor Lagoon, despite having lived on its banks for generations. Even the founding stories of Ada articulate the relationship between the people and the lagoon, and in years past, custodians of the lagoon had special ceremonial practices to conduct before opening its water to harvest for the people of Ada. Throughout the 80s and 90s, the threat of exclusion was largely coming from private and state run companies. In the s up to now, the Balkanization of the resource in a practice called atsiakpo is slowly privatizing the once communal lagoon and pushing local people out. The forum was an opportunity to bring together small scale salt miners from Ada, as well as Keta, a neighbouring salt mining region in the next district to the east, to publicly state in the presence of chiefs, politicians, media, and the public, how ongoing privatization of the resource is affecting their livelihoods and communities. We heard from courageous women, concerned for the future of their communities. We heard from brave men, who had encountered gun violence in their community the previous day over this very matter. We heard from local chiefs who made promises to take action. We hope that having the national press cover the forum with an election around the corner for will put artisanal salt miners rights on the agenda. The privatization of natural resources and the catestrophic impacts on indigenous and rural people is not unique to Ghana. We see it in Canada in our own backyards- countless front line communities affected by the oil and gas sector, mining operations, and deforestation. These examples call attention to the problematic and inherently unjust nature of a capitalist mindset, which consistently values monetary gain over social, human, and environmental well being- that attempts to give commodity value to invaluable cultural and spiritual ecosystems, with which we as humans are inextricably connected. While I am privileged beyond belief to not be directly impacted by the dispossession of resources, I am embedded in communities with people who cannot say the same. It is for my aunties and uncles of the Songor lagoon that I continue to be vocal and amplify their voices and stories. Because I eat salt. To read more on the issues and the people involved, here is a great blog post by a Ghanaian journalist and friend of mine. There are a lot of farmers here, and I mean a lot! Basically, they are the backbone of rural economies, and contribute substantially to local economies and national GDP. They ensure local and national food security for the most rural regions of the country; they are experts on land use and climate change; they are keepers of inter generational knowledge of the land. Thanks to the immeasurable contributions of farmers to economic stability, local culture and cuisine , food security, and long term land viability, one day a year to pay official respect is the least we can do. The long working hours in the scorching sun, the unpredictability of changing weather systems, and the resilience of farmers to carry out this humble work, is cause to celebrate far beyond a national day of recognition. Each district in Ghana holds a ceremony with local Chiefs, politicians, opinion leaders, and other dignitaries to make speeches and give thanks for local farmers. Extension officers government staff whose work includes working with farmers to build their skill set and improve farming practices with the regional departments for the ministry of food and agriculture also nominate local farmers in various categories who demonstrate innovation in farming techniques and are successfully growing bumper harvests. Award winning farmers are rewarded in various categories male, female, tomatoes, fish farming, livestock, poultry, and other staple crops such as yam, cassava, melons, and mangoes. On December 4th at the junior high school field on Gorm a small hamlet village just past Radio Ada , we went to take part in the festivities! It was fascinating for me to see and take part in the ceremony, as I wrote a lot about this national cultural practice in my undergrad thesis. While its great to recognize and celebrate small scale farmers especially in a context where fewer and fewer young people see farming as a viable livelihood in the long term as they look for more white collar jobs it also raises questions about which farmers are eligible for awards. Namely, those with access to credit loans, and the ability to afford irrigation infrastructure and the use of tractors. Therefore, farmers are seldom encouraged to carry out organic farming methods, or traditional farming practices. A shame! Anyhow, had to put in my political 2 cents. My favourite part of the day was seeing the crowds of award winning farmers families and friends coming to support them-dressed to kill, the pride radiating from these people was brighter than the sun! What an adventure it was sharing the excitement and colours of Ada with my mother. Dancing head top markets stall to stall of fresh veggies, fruits, fermented pungent cassava dough, vibrant fabric, spices, dried beans, fish, meat, clothes electronics, and more! Exploring the markets was one of our favourite pastimes, as well as visiting with local friends and sampling local foods. I certainly learned that my mother is not shy! As she would ask countless number of questions on food prep, family, culture, farming, fishing, schooling, and more! Winding mangrove canoe rides, catching crabs in the shade of the coconut trees, and sleepy afternoons on woven mats. Here are a few special moments! Aflive mama and papa with biological mama! Auntie Emily, mom, and Matt grinding some local pepper sauce Mixing compost at papas mango farm. Knowledge exchange between gardeners. We really must apologize for our inconsistent blog updates! Thinking of all our friends and family back home enduring the Nova Scotia winter! Three shared taxis, a motorbike, a canoe, and a walk up the hill brought us to the Togolese lakeside village of Badougbe. Where we now call Togo has a very interesting history as a piece of land between two major slave-trading empires of Asante and Dahomey. To read more on the history of Togo, click here. Britannica history of Togo. The welcome we received was more than enough to make your heart swell. We made the journey with our good friend Lomo- a cousin to our Auntie Emily, and an always-cheerful neighborhood character of Ada Foah. Since we met three years ago, I knew he was married to a woman living in Togo, with a now year-old son, named Samuel. Pauline and Samuel welcomed us into their home, and along with Lomo, Poalla, and Messah, showed us overwhelming hospitality and kindness. The first evening was spent exploring the main road of Badougbe. The bi-weekly market was taking place so we were able to experience the colors and smells of fresh fish, farm produce, and locally made soap, along with new street food! We ate tofu kebabs, which were an awesome surprise for me an alternative to meat kebabs found in Ghana. We also ate these piping hot, creamy, and moist corn dough patties, called obolo served with spicy tomato pepper sauce and fried fish. We got them fresh off the steamer, but our fingers are getting used to eating hot foods! After a little snack, further down the road we passed several graveyards, and it was explained to us that some Togolese traditionalists bury the dead by family, rather than by religious affiliation. So, each graveyard housed the dead of an extended family. This is a big difference from graveyards around Ada, whereby each church has a graveyard to bury its practicing members much like Nova Scotia. Here is a picture of one of the graveyards, with a central monument with an eagle on top. The eagle, with its ability to see and travel vast distances, is a guide for the dead to make their way to their resting place. Further down the road outside the community center was this monument of Nana Kokuay pronounced Ko-kway. The story goes, when the Europeans were storming the village, this large woman named Nana Kokuay stood up strong to the slave-traders, and would use her weight to sit on them and crush them- to stop them from taking their people captive. She is now honored throughout the village. Returning to the house, our experience of local food was broadened through a meal prepared by Pauline. The yellow cake-like dough is called azume pronounced ah-zu-may , and is corn flour soaked in hot water. It reminded Matt and me of polenta, and was served with this okra-leaf stew with garden egg local eggplant and fish. We all ate from the same plate and bowl, using only our fingers. Normally, as a woman I am able to escape taking shots of hard liquor, but this evening was an exception, as they insisted I kiss my lips to the local drink. Pretty strong stuff! We fell asleep early, and slept long and soundly through the night. With the windows shut and the lights off, it was pitch dark, and I mean seriously dark. We woke late the following morning, and met the day with a scorching sun, dulled by the light showers of the night. Our breakfast consisted of tea, bread, bananas, oranges, and some local beans prepared with carrots, onions, and spices. We dipped the bread in the beans and enjoyed our fruit while little 2-year-old Messah entertained us with his big eyes and silliness. After breakfast, the rain returned, prompting everyone to take a nap. Generally, when it rains in Ghana too , business as usual stands still until the skies clear up. Getting wet is not an option! When the rain cleared, the others were still sleeping so we went for a stroll through the village. We found one of the few hotels and sought refuge from the sun with a chilled Togolese beer. No afternoon in Togo. We returned home to find Lomo and the children up and ready to move. We travelled to the next village West of Togoville, a much larger community than Badougbe. It was packed with people as a huge annual 3-day Catholic prayer festival was taking place. As in Badougbe, the largest structure in the whole town was the Catholic Church. I suppose the same as Antigonish, right? The main street was lined with people selling rosaries, frankincense, and shiny holographic stickers and wall calendars of Jesus Christ. Around the festival were lineups of people waiting to talk to Priests. As in many Ghanaian contexts, people hold great hope and value in the power of prayer through difficult financial realities. Their devotion to their faith is enough for thousands of people to spend 4 days camping in the blaring sun. Besides the festival, Togoville was an interesting town to explore. After learning a bit about the Catholic colonial history of Togo in Togoville, we felt honored to be invited to witness a traditional Indigenous ceremony back in Badougbe. Once night had fallen, about a hundred traditionalists gathered to sing and dance, and pay homage to their ancestors. Dressed only in traditional cloth and beads, the men drummed while the women danced- young and old responding to the rhythm of the drum. Speeding up and slowing down in synchrony. We stood in the back of the extended family gathering and swayed to the music. While we stayed for only an hour, the drumming and dancing would continue until the sun came the following day. We were told, this gathering occurs among traditional families once a month. Unfortunately, no photos here. Sunday morning slipping back into Ghana with ease, the trotro ride back to Ada gave me time to reflect on that for which I was grateful, and that for which I felt resentment- the lack of justice in our world. It seemed very strange; like a geo-political joke. Clusters of tall waving coconut trees continued to line the golden seaside, thick green mango, papaya, and banana trees dotting the roads, and verdurous grasses dancing in the wind. Over our trip, and more upon return, we learned about the historical context of Europeans drawing borders across African soil. The usual sense of discomfort Anglo-Europeans feel at the gut-churning reminder of the atrocities committed by my ancestors in the past- and the impacts this history has on Africans today. Borders drawn by my distant ancestors who have created a system in which I benefit regularly. However, knowing we exist in a system where Africans are fundamentally disadvantaged throughout this process, I wish another world were possible. The political and social inequality, and the socio-economic system that makes it possible for me to jump borders freely with a Canadian passport, is the same system that keeps millions of Africans from likely ever having that choice. I have heard too many stories of visa rejections to North American and European countries, while I have consistently been welcomed into the homes of my Ghanaian and Togolese families. I often wonder, would the same hospitality be shown should these visitors come to Canada? We had a fabulous time in Togo, and I will forever be grateful for the hospitality shown to us by our Togolese family. But the story of kindness and hospitality must not overshadow the more uncomfortable stories of the histories and realities that many Africans face. While we acknowledge stories of struggle, we must also remember stories of strength and brilliance, stories of pride and identity, and stories of kindness. For me, coming to learn the bigger picture makes me appreciate the resilience and warm-heartedness to strangers even more. To Lomo, Pauline, Samuel, and the rest, thank you for sharing your home and family with us. They agreed without hesitation. The same weight that pulled me back to Ghana will bring my soul home in June with open arms. The fierceness of the autumn leaves- the reds, yellows, and oranges that fade to grey- I imagine you walking these forest floors. You are missed, you are cherished, and you are loved. The fatigue that overwhelms Matt and me at the end of the day is unequal to any exhaustion experienced in the past. We hope for rain and when it comes breaking silence with thunder and dryness with relief, we are grateful. Twice in the last week and starting again as I type… the skies have opened with dramatic showers. Blessing the farmers, feeding the soil, comforting our tired bodies. Matt and I have settled into a familiar routine. For both of us, the work is advancing slowly, but is abundant with learning and opportunities for patience. He seems to be making friends with the other teachers and is liked by the students too! Last Sunday, we went out for a drink with the agricultural teacher, Michael, and his wife Suzy. They were such pleasant company and it was wonderful to have them share their stories and some of their values with us. They spoke about how it keeps them close and brings them together everyday- a shared intimacy of fingers feeding from the same food. Suzy is a caterer and cook extraordinaire, and serves food at the high school canteen. She has invited us over to taste all her local recipes, which we jumped on of course! With my fellowship at Radio Ada, we are into the first stage of community forums. One took place on Monday in the fishing village of Anyakpor, and another is scheduled for tomorrow in the farming village of Donguam. Unfortunately, a congested head cold stopped me from taking part on Monday, but the animated descriptions from those who attended and the praise women received for their tireless work made me proud to have played some role in making the whole thing possible. We are currently editing the forum for broadcast, with segments from the men, women, and children of the community. Can you imagine, when the men realized how much the women do for them and their children, they were actually begging the women for forgiveness! We had a very exciting weekend with visitors from Cape Coast a coastal city 5 hours West of Ada. Three Canadian university students studying international development doing a year of study abroad in Ghana came to visit Ada. I got connected with one of the women through a mutual friend from Trent University, and she is thinking of doing her 3-month community placement with Radio Ada. Having them visit Ada for the first time was a great excuse to organize an excursion on the river to some of the islands in the Volta. It was pretty special, in organizing the boat, I asked our close friend Titi if he had any friends with boats that we could hire. He brought his friend Stephen to our house on Friday evening to discuss the trip and decide on a price. When we said that we preferred using a rowboat to a motorboat, they were surprised. Most foreigners that come to Ada prefer the speedboats. We agreed on a route that would be a total of 6 hours with stops on the islands, and he asked for Ghana cedis. We paid him Sometimes using a paddle, and other times a long bamboo shoot when the water was shallow. Because Titi was busy working with a new security job, his brother Isa joined us for the excursion. He came along with a large sac of coconuts plucked fresh that morning. As we moved along the river, he used the machete in his sac to open the coconuts for us to enjoy. This family is seriously one of the kindest, most hospitable and thoughtful families I have ever met. Over the last several years, it has become a tourist attraction in the area. It was sad to see them with such little space, but they were building a bigger area for them and would be moving them when it finished. We visited another island that had a nice safe view of the estuary. We relaxed in the shade by the water and drank coconuts, a safe haven from the sun. We sat under the tilted coconut trees, shared food from the same bowl, and learned all about the privatization of waterfront property on the islands. Foreigners and wealthy Ghanaians are buying up all the waterfront land, marginalizing Indigenous peoples access from their traditional fishing sites. Seeing the overly lavish corporate owned chalets and expensive resorts taking over the riverside. The recreational motorboats are disturbing the fish and smaller fishing boats, and the gas polluting the plants and animals. While this is a phenomenon happening around the world, its devastating to see and hear firsthand, and feel connected to those suffering most. It just breaks my heart. This coming weekend, Matt and I have lots on the go! A good friend of mine from Radio Ada, Charles, has recently lost his father. The funeral is taking place over this whole week, but we will attend the big event on Saturday. The dress code is red and black, and we had matching batik outfits made for the occasion. Should be fun! The rain is really coming down now; people are rushing to seek cover. From the comfort of the open-air studio at Radio Ada, I can enjoy the mist around the thatched-roof structure. Sending big hugs your way. Matt and I love getting updates from back home too, so keep them coming! Happy Saturday folks! Here are a few snap shots from the last couple of weeks. Yours truly, Missing the snow. Here are a few shots, and links to some videos and music at the bottom! This all took place December 3rd, Every December 4th in Ghana is national farmers day. Farmers are life. Farmers are sustenance, farmers are the past, present, and future. How it works… Each district in Ghana holds a ceremony with local Chiefs, politicians, opinion leaders, and other dignitaries to make speeches and give thanks for local farmers. Here are a few pictures, and we even got to take home some award winning mangoes!! Happy everybody! Countless delicious Ghanaian meals A re-discovery of the most relaxing and heavenly beach in Ada A new Canadian housemate Learning to pound fufu! Those who know her, know her love for fruit and local food is a force to be reckoned with. Here she is in her glory at one of the many fruit stands at the Kasseh market. That first day in Ada, we stocked up! Elephants at Mole National Park! A group of bachelors during their morning visit to the waterhole. Such a special way to spend New Years Eve! A wide load in Bolgatanga. More to come…Got bikes? Our dear friends Michael and Suzy, with Mom and Matt. Stay tuned for more over the next few days folks! Crossing Togo Lake- motorbikes and all! Panoramic view of Togo Lake from Badougbe Where we now call Togo has a very interesting history as a piece of land between two major slave-trading empires of Asante and Dahomey. Britannica history of Togo The welcome we received was more than enough to make your heart swell. Lomo and Messah. Tofu kebabs over charcoal. Locally made soap. Obolo steamed corn patties , pepper sauce, and fried fish. A selection of local spirits. Azume with palava stew. Courtyard silhouette. Beauty in all living things. Sweet playful Messah. Morning walk on the beach; fishermen pulling a boat in the rising sun. A typical breakfast. Fresh papaya, pineapple, and banana! A glorious sky over Ada Last Sunday, we went out for a drink with the agricultural teacher, Michael, and his wife Suzy. Bambara beans and kaklo mashed plantain with corn flour and onions, fried With my fellowship at Radio Ada, we are into the first stage of community forums. A few pictures from the community entry to Anyakpor Fishing boats at Anyakpor Fish drying in the sun at Anyakpor, waiting to be smoked Rack of fish at Anyakpor Me and Esther carrying a rack to the smoker! Rack upon rack of fish being smoked! Clay oven below loaded with logs as the smoke rises. The women got a kick out of me, but they insisted I try! Thankfully, my cold medicine was highly palatable. Our Saturday crew! Southbound down the Volta He brought his friend Stephen to our house on Friday evening to discuss the trip and decide on a price. Handmade crab traps at Azizakpe Because Titi was busy working with a new security job, his brother Isa joined us for the excursion. Vegetable jollof rice with homemade coconut oil, fresh fish, banku, and pepper with vegetables We sat under the tilted coconut trees, shared food from the same bowl, and learned all about the privatization of waterfront property on the islands. A bit blurry, but our new matching funeral attire This coming weekend, Matt and I have lots on the go! Jean and Lomo helping Matt fix up our bikes Yams and stew- a favorite dish! From market to table! We managed to get our hands on a guitar! Rachel and Matt. Blog at WordPress. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.

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