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Preparation for any type of trip is always fun, as it gets you in the mood of your destination and all the magic it has to offer. Especially when it comes to preparing for a road trip, the more in depth you go prior your trip, the less you will have to worry about while at your desired destination. This said, a two and half months research, proved to be ideal for the twelve days Balkan road trip a friend and I had decided to take. Compact car running on diesel. Green card for the car. Renewed passports, as we were going to visit non European Union countries. However… check. Snacks, GPS, clothes for all sorts of weather, packed and off we go. Oh and the Airbnb apartments for a more authentic approach at each and every destination…booked. The first day of the trip, would be the easiest one, as we were to drive domestically from Athens, kilometers north to Thessaloniki. Easy yes, however the most costly, as the tolls in Greece are numerous and really pricey. Arriving in Thessaloniki, we got stuck in a bit of traffic, which was not a surprise, yet we found a free parking space quite close to the apartment we had booked. Basic student apartment, nothing worth mentioning, however located directly across from the Turkish consulate, as we were close to the main spots and attractions of the city. Strolling around Valaoritou street, one can feel the true vibe of this vibrant, modern and cultural city. To enjoy the famous waterfront of Thessaloniki where the symbol of the city — the White tower — is located , I would suggest walking or renting a bicycle or quad bicycle for that matter , a bit before sunset. We then had dinner at one of the many traditional taverns in the popular Ladadika district. The following morning was an early start and a farewell to Thessaloniki and Greece, as we headed straight towards the Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia F. Crossing the boarders of Greece and F. We filled our car tank with diesel directly after crossing the boarders as petrol in F. It took us approximately two hours to drive through the entire country and another hour and a half after crossing the boarders of F. Nis is the third largest city in Serbia and one of the oldest cities in the Balkans and Europe. About 30, people passed through this camp, of whom over 10, were shot on nearby Bubanj hill. On 12 February , prisoners staged a mass escape. In , the city was heavily bombed by the Allies. Nis was also one of the stations of the famous Orient Express train line. Our Airbnb apartment in Nis was on the ninth floor of a Stalinist architecture building, left over from the communism era of Yugoslavia. This time our Airbnb accommodation, was a true experience and perhaps one of our favorites, as it was located on the ninth floor of an old communist building of the Stalinist architecture. Our area was the Bohemian quarter Kazandzijsko sokatce , also know as the Tinkers Alley, originally being a craftsmen alley and nowadays transformed into a neighborhood full of restaurants and bars. While walking through the beautiful gardens of the fortress of Nis, we experienced a wonderful concert by a local singer, overlooking the Nisava river. On a sunny day you can enjoy a refreshment at one of the garden cafeterias inside the fortress walls. The next morning was going to be an emotionally heavy one, as we had planned to visit the Crveni Krst Red Cross concentration camp of the Second World War. Established in mid, it was used to detain as many as 35, people during the war and was liberated by the Yugoslav Partisans in More than 10, people are thought to have been killed at the camp. After the war, a memorial to the victims of the camp was erected on Mount Bubanj, where many inmates were shot. Nis had so much to offer, however what stood out as of great importance was the Bubanj Memorial Park. Visiting hours at the Skull Tower were until and due to some more cevapcici, we got there at and the lady at the entrance was kind enough to let us have a look around for free! It is a scenic route driving the outskirts of the town of Nis. The sun had set behind the hills of Nis and we were on the National highway of Serbia, heading towards the capital, Belgrade. What a magical approach, but to see Belgrade for the first time at night. This modern European capital, has nothing to envy from the other mega-cities of Europe. Combining neoclassicism and romanticism of the 18th and 19th century, with the modernism of the 20th and 21st century. We stayed in a wonderful Airbnb apartment named Yellow Duck , located on the ninth and last floor of an old Stalinist architecture building, on Karadordeva street, which is on the East side of Sava river. We could oversee Sava river all they way north to the Danube river and the Belgrade fortress with Kalemegdan Park. On our first evening, we decided to explore our neighborhood. There was a live gig of a local band, which we thoroughly enjoyed. The next morning we woke up early and full of energy, knowing that kilometers of walking were awaiting us. Our exploration of the Serbian capital began with a football stadium hunt. We headed south towards the stadiums of the two biggest football clubs of the country, Partizan and Red Star. The two teams have been rivals for over half a century, yet their stadiums are only one kilometer apart from each other. We were lucky enough to enter both stadiums, all the way up to the pitch that is, as on the day, both were under maintenance. While walking in a beautiful neighborhood full of embassies, we reached the House of Flowers, where Marsal Titos grave is located. Unfortunately it was closed and the next day we were departing from Serbia. We decided to have lunch and head towards one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, Saint Sava church. The Russian Academy of Arts is currently working on the internal decoration. We then had a long walk back to our neighborhood, crossing the entire city, however decided to enjoy our last evening in Belgrade, enjoying the sunset views from the Kalemegdanska Terasa restaurant in the fortress. The restaurant overlooks the meeting point of the great rivers Sava and Danube. A historically important location, of battles and conquers, nevertheless we did manage to enjoy some fine cocktails. Sava river, Belgrade Serbia view from our terrace veranda. A country full of beautiful landscape, takes your breathe away, immediately once you cross the border. Driving alongside the Drina river, we felt as if we were in Switzerland. After one last tunnel the scenery changes and the stunning view of a unique city appears like a sea in front of you. Strolling around Sarajevo, anywhere you look, the bullet holes of the Bosnian War that took place between and and was the most brutal conflict on European soil since World War II, are still purposely visible. Apart from the bullet holes in houses, churches, schools etc, if one looks closely, many small potholes in the pavement filled with red resin, are visible, marking bomb craters where people were killed during the conflict. Our sixth morning was a farewell to Sarajevo, where we promised we would definitely return to and a hello to another Bosnian city, Mostar. The Winter Olympics of Bobsleigh track. Sarajevo hosted the Winter Olympics of They were the first Winter Olympic Games held in a socialist state. The track construction was completed in and known as the steepest and fastest in the world, is now dilapidated and abandoned, a shadow of its former glory. Driving up the really steep road towards the Trebevic mountain, entering the alpine climate and leaving just a bit behind us the city of Sarajevo, it is amazing how close to the city center we actually are. Approaching the intimidating, massive construction of the bobsleigh, we were fascinated of the diverse history of our surroundings. Thirty four years ago this Olympic revenue enjoyed its glory days, being on the spotlight of the world. Twenty six to twenty three years ago, during the war, this was the front-line for Bosnian Serb forces and their artillery position. Now it is an abandoned site, full of graffiti and almost hidden in the dense forest. However, you also feel the atrocities and the fear war brings along. Sarajevo is hosting the next Winter European Youth Olympic Festival in — 35 years from its moment in the international sporting spotlight. The afternoon drive to Mostar was an easy, pleasant one, as we drove alongside the Neretva river. Heading towards the South — West of the country, the altitude decreased and the temperatures started rising. We arrived in Mostar in the evening and could immediately sense the touristy vibe of the town. We were informed by our Airbnb host, that on a daily basis, tour buses full of groups, come from Split and Dubrovnik, operating the shore excursions of big cruise lines. The bridge was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century and is exemplary of Islamic architecture and fine engineering. During the civil war, however, the bridge was destroyed by Croat forces but it has since been rebuilt to its exact original specifications. There is a market on each side of the river near to the Stari Most, due to the split between the Bosniak and Croat ethnic groups that inhabit the city, although the difference between the two is not noticeable to visiting tourists. The market has a distinctly eastern feel, thanks to the historic Ottoman influences, with stalls selling rugs, painted plates, copper items, and souvenirs. It was a cool hidden treasure. As one of my best friends is a black female Pointerdor, a stop for a beer was essential. Dinner time found us in a dilemma, as the variety of traditional restaurants is big, comparing the size of the Old Town of Mostar. As it was a long day, we decided to get an early rest, as the following day, would be another adventurous one. Waking up in Mostar, was warmer than expected felt like back home in Athens in October. About one hour drive, West from Mostar, are the spectacular waterfalls of Kravice. We were lucky, as we were visiting the waterfalls in off season, therefore avoiding the crowds and just before the end of visiting season, as they are accessible from May to October. The Kravice waterfall is roughly 25 meters high and separated into 20 falls, with the lake below being about meters in radius. However, it is this small size of the fall that makes it so accessible, unlike most large waterfalls. Heading towards Dubrovnik, we chose the route with the most coastline time. This option, brought us to a funny encounter. After contacting and meeting our host, he helped us check in and drove with us in search of a free parking spot approximately 3 kilometers away. Our other option would be to pay an equivalent of euros for a private parking spot, for our two nights stay. No way. The vibe was quite touristy, however the surrounding buildings take you back to another century. The following morning, we were awaken by the cruise lines tour groups which seemed to be following us from Mostar , who were walking the 11th-century fortress walls of Stari Grad. Our apartment had this prime location of being attached to this rather pricey, yet famous walking tour. Only a minute walk away, exiting our apartment and going through a small dark passageway, we were outside the walls of Dubrovnik and facing the magical blue of the Adriatic sea. The menu has only seafood, like fried prawns, fried squid, small fish, fried and fresh oysters, tuna burger, octopus burger. Good portions, good prices, good food. A must. The cable car to the hill of Mount Srd , was our next task. Directly across and down the stairs is the starting point of the cable car. The ride up in the cable car, did not take us more than four minutes and the views are magnificent. After having a drink at Panorama bar restaurant, we decided to head back down and aim to the famous Banje beach. Surprisingly enough, even in October the beach was crowded. Later in the evening we strolled around the Old Town one last time, as we were to depart the following morning and enjoyed the numerous street artists, which gave color to an already magical scenery. The days were passing by so fast, due to the excitement of the variety of things to see and do. The feeling however, that the end of our journey was near, was a bit disappointing. Leaving Dubrovnik and Croatia behind, we were certain to return one day, as it has much to offer to the visitor. The drive to atmospheric Kotor in Montenegro, was not a long one, yet indeed an interesting one. It is located in a secluded part of the Gulf of Kotor, at the end of Boka Bay. After a two hour drive, we arrived to this dark, intimidating, seaside, fortress town, which seems to have been left almost untouched through the centuries. Originally fortified by the Byzantines, the Venetians reinforced the walls to what they are today, and what put Kotor truly on the map. Once again, our Airbnb apartment was centrally located purposely chosen , directly above the square of Piazza Greca and the church of Saint Luke, which has the traits of Roman and Byzantine architecture and nowadays has both a Catholic and Orthodox altar. In Dubrovnik as mentioned , you have to pay a fair amount to walk the walls of the castle and wait in ques to do so. The market was filled with fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and local products ranging from food to crafts. As the evening approached, we continued our wandering towards the Saint Ivan hill, where the fortress of San Giovanni stand. Perhaps Dubrovnik is globally known and in the spotlight, but medieval Kotor is where you feel romance, history, mystery and beauty all in one. The final day outside the boarders of Greece, would include the longest drive, as we would be crossing the Montenegro — Albania boarders, through the entire country of Albania from North to South on the West side and then finally crossing the boarders of Albania — Greece, to spend the night in the town of Ioannina. Budva was the first and prettiest town we drove through on our long drive down south. Approaching the Montenegro — Albania boarders, we felt as if being mocked by our GPS, as we were in the Montenegro mountains and no sign of civilization around. At the boarders, what caught my eye, was the number of backpackers from different countries, on foot and asking for a ride. The Albanian National Highway, is a modern road, with the majority of the vehicles being luxurious and classy. Loads of hitchhikers on both sides of the road and quite a few carriages. We drove by the capital of Albania, Tirana, the coastline city of Durres and the picturesque town of Argyrokastro. The lines of cars and pedestrians were so very long, we were in queue for approximately two hours. Apparently the boarders here are still strict, as a lot of illegal crossing the boarders occur on a daily basis. We arrived in Ioannina at and were quite tired, however after finding our Airbnb apartment, we decided to explore the old town near the famous lake of Ioannina. Dinner here was familiar, as we were back on known soil, yet I must admit, we missed our cevapcici. Throughout our entire trip, the weather was wonderful. Mild and sunny and some day it even got hot. Our last morning, on yet another long drive from Ioannina to Athens, we experienced a heavy rain-pour, that lasted over a couple of hours. Sunset over the Danube river in Belgrade Serbia. Ever dreamed of heading to an alternative destination, to explore it while skiing and snowboarding? And by meaning alternative, I mean it would be a blast from the past, with a touch of authentic vibes and unique feelings, coming from a couple of decades back. Lost in the wilderness of Northern Greece, high in the Pindos mountain-rage Vasilitsa could be characterized as an old-school ski resort, with 5 lifts and 16 ski trails, located kilometers away from Athens, kilometers from Thessaloniki and 40 kilometers from Grevena, which is the nearest town. Nearby villages of Smixi, Distrato and Samarina, have a mountainous, wildlife history, yet are awaiting to be reborn. Visitors can find 4 and 5 star hotels, spa resorts, shelters, as well as rooms for rent and hostels. Some traditional taverns in the area, provide you with delicious local cuisine, highlighted by the famous mushrooms of Grevena town. Mushroom statue, in the centre of the town of Grevena. Grevena itself is a small yet vibrant town, housing a department of the University of Western Macedonia, buzzing nightlife and locals always eager to welcome visitors. A variety of festivities take place here, all year round. Due to ski and snowboarding roadtrips to Vasilitsa, I have experienced the Balkan Festival, as well as the Carnival, which literally fill the streets of the town with music, dancing and happy faces. Great events, for a traveller passing by, to encounter. Back up into the mountains and further away from the buzz of the town life, is the home of the magnificent brown bears of Northern Greece. These beautiful creatures are protected by Arcturos Environmental Centre. There are an estimated bears, one of the largest populations in southern Europe. Arcturos actively works for the conservation of the brown bear and its habitat in Greece and the Balkans. They were implemental in ending the dancing bear trade in Greece and continue to work towards the end of illegal captivity in the wider regions of the Balkans. This unique ecosystem is located between the prefectures of Grevena and Ioannina towns and it stretches to The National Park of Pindos is characterized by great biodiversity. It hosts more than 17 species of mammals, among which are the wolf, the wild cat, the mountain antelope, the wild goat and the otter. Along these there are 70 kinds of birds, where among them are the king eagle and golden eagle. Also, 7 kinds of amphibians, 10 reptiles and an amazingly rich fauna of insects. Once, while visiting the area and taking a day off from the ski resort of Vasilitsa, we decided to explore Valia Calda. While heading towards our destination, we drove through the village of Avdella. There was something peculiar about this village. There was nobody around and to top that up, all the windows and doors of the houses, were locked shut and barricaded with heavy metal locks, big logs and bricks. So, obviously, there was no entering nor exiting these houses. We were informed by locals of the village of Smixi where we were staying , that the village of Avdella, has only a few watchmen in winter, yet the population in summer can rise to be 3, Explanations vary, regarding this matter. This natural Greek playground, is spoken of highly and with great respect by the connoisseurs of winter sports and activities. For those in search of a destination full of powder, away from crowds and a mass amount of traditional mountainous life, Vasilitsa ski resort, is the destination to feel serene. A complex of a number of Greek islands in the Aaegean, creating a circle between them, are the Cyclades. Some of which are really famous, like Mykonos and Santorini. Located at the South — West part of the Cyclades, approximately three and a half hours away, by ferry, from the port of Piraeus. Sifnos is the land of pure authentic Greek islanders. Kamares is the main port of Sifnos, which connects the island with the rest of the world. Any other small port or marina, you may come upon, is for fishing boats, caiques, yachts and sailing boats. In Kamares there are several surf and turf taverns, a couple of beach bars, car rentals and a few small hotels. Take a walk along the water front, on Kamares golden sand beach. It is one of the longest beaches on the island. Leaving Kamares behind you and heading towards the East, your next stop should be the capital of Sifnos, called Apollonia. This small, yet vibrant town is the heart of the island, literary and metaphoricaly. Enjoy Greek apetizers and spirits at Drakakis apetizers tavern. Have a drink at Doloma bait bar listening to rock music and dance the night away at Botzi bar or Cosi lounge bar. Visit Sifnos ideally by a sailing boat or a motor boat. However, if neither are in your budget or interests, then make sure to equipt yourselves with a canoe — kayak or a stand up paddle board. You will not regret it, as the island offers noumerous capes, peninsulas and secret beaches. Head to the Northest point of the island, where you will find the capes of Heronisos, Vroda and Artimoni. For decades, the houses here, have been protected from the strong winter waves by the turns and bends of the cape. At the far peak of Heronisos cape and for that matter, of the entire island of Sifnos, is the small Orthodox monastery of Agios Georgios St. George , constantly being hit by Ostrias, Tramuntanas, Levantes and Punedes winds. Here locals are considered the Kri — Kri wild goats, also found on the island of Crete. The second beach, Vroulidia , is located at the bottom end of a steep and windy, dirt road. After the decline, you reach a pebbled beach with a local tavern, which serves great local dishes. Lay back, relax and float in the salty crystal sea. Forget your everyday routine, as the landscape provides pure isolation and serenity. Sifnos is an aristocratic island and what better villages to prove this aristocracy to visitors, than Artemonas and Kastro. Artemonas, is located directly above the capital Apollonia, towards the north. The locals here, come from wealthy nautical families and this is quite visible, from the intimidating mansions. Kastro castle , is a magical Castle village, in which the alleyways create a magical maze, you want to get lost in. The village, has been inhabited for over years and was at one time the capital of the island. To protect Kastro from pirates there were only five entrances in the massive walls which enclose it. These could be locked by iron gates. When you enter the town you go through tunnels and passageways into a labyrinth of tiny streets. On the sea side of the village are two small beautiful churches. The Church of the Seven Martyrs on the left sits above one of the finest spots for snorkeling on the island. Kastro is the type of place that would inspire an artist, poet, writer. You may want to enjoy a nice meal in one of the local taverns. Sifnos is an island which offers a various amount of official trekking paths, for all tastes and levels. Many of the beaches are connected by treks, with villages and towns of the the island. A magical path starts at the beach of Hrisopigi and goes bay-side, passing by the beaches of Faros and Fasolou, ending at the Napos Cape. Cruising around the island make sure to be tuned on Radio Active You will love the playlists and you will tune in, even when you return back home. Sifnos island, could be a song, a poem or even a feeling. It is a low profile destination, which once visited , becomes addicted. The country of the islands, is the country of the mountains! After travelling for quite a few years as a Peregrine Adventures tour leader, I may now say I have met some fabulous and wonderful travelers, with whom I have seen some remarkable landscapes. This destination is by far, my favorite. Before you head off, here is what you want to pack up with you: hiking boots, a kayak or raft, and if visiting in winter your snow chains, your snowboard, your skis. It is the medieval village of Dimitsana, built on one of the slopes of Mainalo mountain, the home of God Pan and of the Nymphs. After settling-in, in one of the various stone wall mansions, enjoy a stroll in the mysterious, cobblestone alley ways. Get lost and lose yourself. Discover the library of the village, which contains a collection of 35, books and manuscripts, as well as, a folklore collection of objects from the everyday life of the Greek Independence in Look around for the impressive clock tower of St Haralambos church dated in On the main road — which happens to be the only paved road- take a break and sit at one of the traditional cafes or taverns. Here, you will enjoy superb, traditional, mountainous dishes and delicacies. It is ideal for cold snowy nights. Choose between, wild goat stew, village lasagna, chickpea soup Revithia ,stuffed cabbage rolls, rooster with baked potatoes and so on. After your dinner, relax in one of the mansions lounges, sit near the fireplace and enjoy the singular view surrounding this unique village. Waking up in such a landscape, prepare to inhale the aroma from the pine tree forest around you. The early morning fog, adds to this magical and mysterious picture. If visiting during winter, stack your snowboards and skis and head to the nearby ski resort of Mainalo, where you can ride on pristine slopes. Situated at an elevation ranging from 1, to 1, m, the ski resort is equipped with eight ski runs of 5. Four lifts, offering an easy, quick and safe access. A snowboard and a snowmobile park where you can enjoy a ride on ATVs and Snow-hawks. Visiting in autumn or spring, be equipped with a kayak or raft, including all the necessary gear. One of the highlights of the magnificent area, is Lousios river, which runs deep into the Lousios gorge. The internationally recognized trek, starts from the main square of Dimitsana. Just follow the official trekking marks along the side the road, towards the Open Air Water Mill museum. The Museum brings to the fore, the type of powder mill with pestles, which was used in Dimitsana during the Revolution against the Ottoman rule and up to the early 20th century, simultaneously preserving this particular technology of gunpowder production, which disappeared in the rest of Europe in the 18th century. Departing the museum, continue on to the traditional bridge of Monopori, which will take you first to the monastery of Philosophos and then to the Prodromos monastery, before ending in ancient Gortyna. At both monasteries you will meet friendly, humble, discreetly peaceful monks. They will offer you Greek coffee with a small treat. Perhaps a jello candy with a nut in the middle, called Loukoumi. While in conversation with one of the monks once, I was amazed at his mass knowledge about life, yet he had never left the monastery. Not even to go to Dimitsana, only a thirty minutes walk away… Which makes one think; do we really need so many things, to actually enjoy life? Upon entering the chapel of Prodromos Monastery, confront the splendid 14th-century frescoes decorating the rock walls. Walking alongside the Lousios river, or kayaking and rafting in it, you feel the power of the fresh, cold, natural water all around you. Believe me, this unique village, will be mentioned, by you, frequently, in the stories and experiences of your lives. Places, you may, or may not have ever heard about. And if perhaps you are an experienced traveler, or have visited each destination I will write about…well this is my little input from what these wonderful landscapes have offered me. One of which, can be found on the west banks of the Peloponnese. From campers, to yacht owners, from surfers, to golfers. A sweet cocktail between locals and visitors co-existing. Marathopoli fishing village is the gathering point, to eat and drink before and after a full day at the beach. A few bars and cafeterias are lined up on the boardwalk as well. Take your kayak, Stand Up Paddle board, motorboat, fishing boat, sailing boat, or any boat you may have, cover less than 2 nautical miles and reach the small island facing Marathopoli village. Remains of a Mycenean Acropolis can be found on the island, as well as old sailor wishes engraved in the rocks. Heading east, away from the sea, towards inland Messinia, we come upon a town which has been inhabited since 3. Here, one can experience the serenity of nature, combined with the true every day life of a Greek villager. Nearby Gargaliani town, one must ask and find the waterfalls of Valta. Be prepared for a hike. Adding to which, a possibility of non existent water. Why mention it then? Well if there is water, then you are in for an Utopian treat. Advise the locals. As an alternative, do check Polilimnio waterfalls, which are located a bit down further towards the south. Moving towards the south of Messinia, we come upon the famous resort of Costa Navarino. Staying there or not, definitely make a visit to Voidokilia beach, a perfect, half circle sandy bay. Tastes surely vary, time is precious, distance is a serious matter. Or to be precise your land of fish and oil. Skip to content Home About. White tower of Thessaloniki. Skull Tower. Football stadium of Partizan. Saint Sava church. City of Sarajevo. Streets of Sarajevo. Sebilj fountain. Bosnian boarders. Banje beach Dubrovnik. Old town of Dubrovnik Croatia. Streets of Kotor. Kotor Montenegro. Vasilitsa Ski Resort. Path in Valia Calda. Valia Calda. Hrisopigi monastery. Traditional Sifnos house. Heronisos bay. St Nicholaos at Kastro area. Kastro village. Sunset at Kamares beach. View after the last bend…. Mainalo ski resort. Lousios river. Open Air Water Mill Museum. Philosophos Monastery. Prodromos Monastery. However, it is a country like no other, full of surprises. This is exactly what I wish to share with you. Horse on Voidokilia beach. Island Proti. Valta waterfalls. Polilimnio waterfalls. Voidokilia beach. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.

Bosnia-Herzegovina in 2018 – Part 3: The scars of Sarajevo

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Originally published in Outside January, A snowcat waits for us, orange lights flashing in the dusk. We hoist a coiled length of hose onto the flatbed and climb up. Nikola Krneta in a ruined hotel at the base of Jahorina, a resort and former Olympic venue. Image: Alex Tehrani. After hours of negotiations, Biogradlic has finally convinced the state officials who own Bjelasnica, a ski resort near Sarajevo and a former Olympic venue, to let him use a snow gun. This is problematic for Biogradlic. As we grind up the hill, the snowcat churns up a stew of gravel and dirt. At the top of the terrain park, we jump off the snowcat. The snow gun, brought up by another cat, is set strategically over the slope. A slight wind picks up, bending the tops of the dark pines. It feels peaceful, until the control lights of the snow gun come to life. The scream of the snow gun pierces the night. In a few moments, the hose grows stiff with water, and a thick white beacon of millions of fine ice crystals shoots up into the air. Vilic, meanwhile, takes a less formal approach: the year-old skier leads a freewheeling, multiethnic group of snow punks called Madstyle Team. But Madstyle has recently begun to attract big sponsors for their competitions. By the s, when Bosnia was part of Yugoslavia, a confederation of Balkan states, the mountains filled with skiers who built lodges and jumps on 6,foot Mount Jahorina, about 20 miles southeast of Sarajevo. The resort got its first chairlift in , and Jahorina quickly became an international ski destination, hosting the European and World Cup circuits. The Games almost never happened. Winds of miles per hour buffeted the high peaks. They carried picks, shovels, and brooms and stayed warm with home-brewed rakija, a highly flammable local moonshine made from plums. They cleaned up the roads to the venues, dug out the buses from the drifts, and groomed the trails. It worked. Some 1, participants from 49 nations took their shot at a medal. Then came the war. In , the worsening economic situation and a few radicalized politicians blew the lid off. The Bosnian Serbs, led by Radovan Karadzic, struck first. In , with the whole world watching live on TV, military and paramilitary bands pillaged villages and laid siege to Sarajevo, shelling Muslim neighborhoods—war crimes for which Karadzic would be charged after he was finally captured in Members of Madstyle Team in front of the Jahorina hotel. The building burned down after the war. The Olympic venues were not spared. Bjelasnica and the surrounding villages, where Muslims and Serbs lived side by side, became the front line of the attack. The edifice of Zetra Hall, the site of the hockey and figure-skating events, was shelled from the hills. Its ice rink served as a makeshift morgue, the wooden seats providing material for coffins. Even the resorts became spoils of war: Bjelasnica was given to the Federation, while Serb-controlled Jahorina, which was left largely unscathed by the conflict, joined Republika Srpska. Vilic is one of these kids. We stole gas from the cars! Of course, during shelling we would hide in the basement. Still, career options for a would-be professional skier are slim in Bosnia. Ismar Biogradlic at Bjelasnica. We sip hot bean soup and guzzle beer, waiting for the snow gun to do its job. Biogradlic looks nervous. His cell phone rings every few minutes: various teams for the upcoming Europa Cup calling with requests. The South Africans need help with their Bosnian visas; another team wants to change hotels. But the Austrians can be grumpy if the conditions are bad. Biogradlic fell in love with winter as a ten-year-old kid watching the Sarajevo Games. He competed in two Olympics in luge, representing Yugoslavia in at Albertville and the newly independent Bosnia and Herzegovina in at Nagano. During the war, he sustained gunshot wounds to his wrist and shoulder. Biogradlic eventually dropped the luge, in part because the bobsled track on Mount Trebevic was in ruins. He began snowboarding, borrowing his first board from a Greek friend, and soon opened a snowboard shop in downtown Sarajevo, in Three years later he organized the national team, which is now composed of three riders, ages 17 to Soon after I left, in April, they went to the Junior World Championships in Valmalenco, Italy, where they finished dead last in slopestyle. Hanging around Biogradlic, you get the feeling that snowboarding is his life. At the bar, I ask him about his role in the war, and he clams up. People should just get a snowboard or skis or whatever and enjoy the simple pleasures of life. Snowboarding is not nationalistic. Everybody can get together on the slopes. All we need is a bit more snow and investment in the sport. Indeed, funding the alpine resurgence has been a challenge. The past few years have seen modest improvements at Bjelasnica. When I return to Bjelasnica a few mornings later, rivulets of slush and dirty snowmelt run down the terrain park. Though the rails and boxes are still in place, the large kicker at the finish resembles a beached whale. Biogradlic and Vilic have been here all night, spreading artificial snow over the slopestyle course. Biogradlic runs up and down the terrain park, a shovel in one hand and a cell phone in the other. Vilic shapes the approach to one of the boxes, scrambling around on his knees. He pops open a beer can. Just a month ago, Madstyle organized a huge jib contest, the Madstyle Games, in downtown Sarajevo. It took them more than six months to land sponsors like Toyota and Red Bull, who threw in a few thousand dollars. Madstyle invited riders from Slovenia, erected a foot ramp, and littered the city with promotional posters. The event took place, thanks to a giant refrigerator truck that brought hundreds of bags of snow from the mountains. While he and Vilic debate the options, six young snowboarders show up. They are far too fair-skinned to be Bosnian. My friends and I were at a Bible camp in Switzerland and decided to come here—teach snowboarding and help out. He has blue eyes, freckles, and a wispy blond beard. The Bosnians—who, it would be fair to say, have seen it all—are stunned. One of the boarders has a smiling Jesus on her helmet. In a few minutes, the evangelicals are scrambling over the muddy hump, stones flying in all directions. Soon their bright jackets are covered in dirt. One by one, they sit down on the side. Biogradlic looks at them and shakes his head. The Europa Cup at Bjelasnica will be postponed. Vilic hops a rail at Bjelasnica. Except for a few pockmarked facades left unrepaired for lack of money, there are no visible reminders of violence. A new skyscraper, the Avaz Twist Tower, rises over the minarets of the old town. The truck humps over the curb and stops in the middle of the park. A crowd of about 30 skiers and snowboarders awaits. Vilic and Krneta are here, along with some friends from Madstyle Team. So are the jibbers for Jesus. Madstyle Team, with Vilic in the top row, seated, and Krneta below. The truck unloads the snow to cheers. Some snow is put aside for a makeshift beer cooler. Waiting patiently on top of the ramp, snowboarders and skiers drop in one by one, sliding down the flat box at the end. Beers are downed quickly and often. The skiers talk about girlfriends and boyfriends, jobs, Jesus Christ, marijuana farming. Now Dubioza Kolektiv, the hottest reggae-rock band in Bosnia, thumps from the stereo. When dark descends over the city, people pull their cars up and shine their headlights on the ramp. The party goes on. Then, one by one, the minarets on the hills come to life for evening prayer. Email Address. Copyright Dimiter Kenarov All rights reserved. Created by MazeLabs. You must be logged in to post a comment. Enes Vilic. Tags: Europa Cup Madstyle Snowboarding. Subscribe to the site Receive email notifications about my posts. Join other followers:. Loading Comments Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email.

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