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Add the swaying palm trees everywhere you look, beautiful beaches, and lazy backwater boat trips, and you have a version of the country that has been called India for Beginners. A couple of hours north of the southernmost border of Kerala, Varkala Beach came recommended as a place I might find hard to leave. I can see why some might want to linger here, but for those same reasons I was ready to go after only a week. T he path along the top of the cliff was lined with enough tourist traps to keep a traveler busy for a month, but after a few days, the food and spa menus, jewelry shops, and souvenir stores all started to look the same. The beach below the cliff was a welcome respite from the noisy commercialism on the cliff above, and my early morning walks on the mostly empty shores never grew old. The red lacerite cliffs that soar 80 feet above the golden sand are dotted with intensely green palm trees growing from whatever root hold they can manage, and the stunning backdrop they made vied to draw my attention from the rolling waves and endless skies. From far away, even the multi-colored heaps of trash that local businesses drop down the cliff face are beautiful against the red rock, but the smell of rotting garbage dispels that romantic notion as soon as you get close enough to the dump spot. In recent years, there have been several slides as the earth has eroded under the pathway along the cliff where growing numbers of humans, motorcycles, and rickshaws impact the soil. There is a moratorium on building new structures more than ten meters near the edge of the cliff, but change happens slowly when it means businesses will lose money, and there was no sign of any of the proposed improvements like demolition of the stairs to the beach or relocation of the helipad. For now, the two sets of stairs are the only way to reach the beach from the north end of the cliff. The northernmost set is by the Tibetan Restaurant and about meters south is another set by Cafe del Mar. Alternatively, visitors can keep taking the cliff trail south as it descends to meet the beach at Papunasum past the helipad. Once on the beach, there are surf and boogie boards for rent, with or without lessons, and umbrellas and beach chairs for rent by the day or half day. Around the border of Varkala and Papusanum beaches there is a riptide, but the danger zone is well signed. There are dozens of yoga places scattered around the cliff and inland, and many home stays offer yoga classes if they have the space. I went to a good class at my home stay, but only because there was a substitute that day; the regular yoga instructor there was creepy. Namasthe Ayurvedic Mission Check in the main office for yoga classes and timings. The class was small—just two attendees—and the view from the rooftop shala was stunning. His adjustment of my headstand was inexpert and reminded me again of why I recommend telling teachers to skip the physical adjustments and to rely on verbal instruction instead. A gifted teacher will be able to instruct an adjustment using only her voice, and verbal instructions can be a good way to avoid injury from over-exuberant, ill-trained teachers. Make Pooja at Papanasum Beach. Abutting Varkala Beach to the south is Papanasum Beach, which is considered a holy site for Hindus to honor theirdead. The waters here are considered sacred and instilled with the power to wash away the sins of anyone who bathes in them. In the service of making pooja, or offerings, are many sadhus holy men who set up shop on the beach under colorful umbrellas. They display their various wares on raised beds of sand and will create an offering of flowers, fruit, and ashes they make by burning herbs and sticks while saying prayers. I asked a sadhu if I could take his photo and you should always ask, especially if the person is in the middle of a religious ritual , which he seemed happy to let me do. After I clicked a couple of photos and showed them to him, he asked me if I wanted to perform a ritual for an ancestor. I thought he said 5 rupees after I asked the price, so I dug out a 10 and told him to keep the change. Oooh, well, I love my grandmother, but she was Catholic, and I can usually light a candle in a church for under a buck. Regardless, it sounded fun to try but ended up being a little painful as the attendant was not well trained and kept making the oil too hot. I told her repeatedly that the oil, which I could hear spattering in the pan over the stove in our treatment room, was too hot, but she could not seem to correct on a consistent basis. The result was that the treatment was a little stressful, and I emerged with a big red spot on my chest from the oil being overheated. Note: any professional Ayurvedic center will not let a patient self-diagnose and order treatments, and typically any treatment will require multiple sessions before there is an effect. Aside from the place being little dirty, the massage was very good and the masseur was well trained. Tibetan Restaurant and German Bar Good food but rude treatment by one of the waiters who would not stop aggressively flirting with me both inside the dining room and once when I ran into him outside the restaurant. I felt so uncomfortable on my second visit there that I stopped going, which is a shame because the view of the ocean was one of the best on the cliff. Coffee Temple Open at am. Great coffee and desserts as well as wood-fired pizza. The veggie burger is ok, but nothing spectacular. Homemade ice cream was a treat that was not overly sweet. Nice views of the ocean, courteous and professional wait staff. Cafe Del Mar Great food at reasonable prices for the cliff ; efficient, unobtrusive service; delicious fresh seafood in the evening. The Juice Shack This place had good juice and soup, which I appreciated when I arrived with a cold, but I stopped going after my second visit when my waiter casually picked his nose while taking my order. Janardanaswamy Te mple Just inland from Papanasum Beach, there is a huge scum-covered pond where worshippers bathe and across the street is the long flight of steps to the year old Janardanaswamy Temple. While approaching the temple, I kept hearing a startlingly loud noise that sounded like a gun firing, but I assumed it was construction work because no one else seemed to be paying attention. On my way up the temple steps, after depositing my shoes at the slipper counter, I learned the source after I paid what I assumed was an entry fee but was actually an offering so that this gentleman would light what looked like a large firework to announce my visit to the gods. At least Vishnu would not be still be wearing his house coat when I made it to the top of those steps. You will need to pay a fee to use your camera, and it may be worth it to be able to take a photo of the collection of baby dolls suspended from ribbons from a huge banyan tree. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple. Beaches Aside from Varkala and Papasanum, there are miles of beaches to the south to explore. As for entry and exit points, I am not sure; the beach is impassable at high tide from Papasanum. Since India achieved independence in , the governments of more than cities have changed the names from the colonial to the native versions. Now officially known as Trivananthapurum, Trivandrum is what most people still call the capital of Kerala. Despite having the largest population of any city in Kerala, Trivandrum is known as the most relaxed capital in all of India. Trivandrum has a major airport, and flights from Cochin barely have time to get off the ground before they have to land. I opted for the train, which takes about an hour from Varkala Beach and passes pleasantly through typical Keralan countryside of green fields and banana tree farms. It rained the entire way down, which made the passing countryside even more beautiful. Once off the train, be sure to ignore the rickshaw drivers who meet you in the lobby—they will try to scam a high fare. Instead, proceed directly to the pre-paid cab counter outside. A rs fare offered in the lobby dropped sharply to 30 rs at the pre-paid counter. My hotel offered Ayurvedic treatments, but after the heartburn of my last experience, I decided instead to get a Swedish massage at the Naturals spa near the Carmel Hill Monastery Church. My massage was thorough and relaxed me for the upcoming train ride that evening, and it was a nice change to smell like almond oil instead of medicated oil used in Ayurvedic massage. The lip and bikini wax were expertly done she warned me they had no cold European wax, but she was fast , and the pedicure de-nastified my feet after a week walking the beach at Varkala. Total price: rs, including the hour massage. I was presented with a dosa as long as my arm, and it was perfect. I skipped the buttermilk that came with it but everything on my plate was superb. Stand, Overbridge, Thampanoor. Probably the oddest cafe I have ever visited, this place just across from the central railway station. The waiters must have calves like racing cyclists because it was not an easy climb to the top, which is how far as I had to go to find a table in this busy cafe. Aside from coffees and teas, there are curries, sandwiches, and desserts, all for very reasonable prices. Worth a visit just to see the building itself, this palace is filled with beautiful photos of historic figures as well as important artifacts. A good guided tour is part of the entry fee 50 rs , but photography and wandering off alone is not allowed. Matsya Kanyaka next to Shangumugham Beach About 8 km west of city center next to the airport. Whenever I would ask someone what the best beach in Trivandrum was, they would tell me to go to Kovalam Beach, which is about 20 km south of the center and not actually in Trivandrum. This meter-long mermaid sculpture was created by the famous artist Kanayi Kunhiraman, the Raja Shilpi royal sculptor of Kerala, out of a single piece of stone. If I had to do it over again, I would have stayed in Varkala Beach only four nights, hung in Trivandrum for a couple days, and then headed down to Kovalam for four nights before leaving the area. Sometimes I wonder if Indians believe in reincarnation because one lifetime in this beautiful country is not enough. Posted by Joel Gales - Comments Off. A view of Varkala Beach from the south end of the cliff path Varkala Beach A couple of hours north of the southernmost border of Kerala, Varkala Beach came recommended as a place I might find hard to leave. Do Yoga There are dozens of yoga places scattered around the cliff and inland, and many home stays offer yoga classes if they have the space. The view from a cliff restaurant. Eat Tibetan Restaurant and German Bar Good food but rude treatment by one of the waiters who would not stop aggressively flirting with me both inside the dining room and once when I ran into him outside the restaurant. See Janardanaswamy Temple Janardanaswamy Te mple Just inland from Papanasum Beach, there is a huge scum-covered pond where worshippers bathe and across the street is the long flight of steps to the year old Janardanaswamy Temple. Trivandrum Since India achieved independence in , the governments of more than cities have changed the names from the colonial to the native versions. Rainy train ride to Trivandrum Getting there Trivandrum has a major airport, and flights from Cochin barely have time to get off the ground before they have to land. Do Spa My hotel offered Ayurvedic treatments, but after the heartburn of my last experience, I decided instead to get a Swedish massage at the Naturals spa near the Carmel Hill Monastery Church. Stand, Overbridge, Thampanoor Probably the oddest cafe I have ever visited, this place just across from the central railway station. Puthenmalika Palace Museum Padmanabhaswamy Temple Road, Near East Fort, Pazhavangadi, Fort, East Fort, Pazhavangadi Worth a visit just to see the building itself, this palace is filled with beautiful photos of historic figures as well as important artifacts. Matsya Kanyaka Matsya Kanyaka next to Shangumugham Beach About 8 km west of city center next to the airport Whenever I would ask someone what the best beach in Trivandrum was, they would tell me to go to Kovalam Beach, which is about 20 km south of the center and not actually in Trivandrum. Please follow and like us:.

India: Hippy Heaven

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The sea breeze is warm and keeps you cool as you shelter from the hot afternoon sun; the surf crashes onto the beach below; the sound of trance music throbs gently from speakers sitting on the sandy floor of the bar; and contented travellers wander past in their little huddles, showing off far more flesh than is considered polite in the country outside. But it doesn't matter here, because in the same way that major cities have a Little India, a Chinatown and a Latin quarter, most countries have at least one Hippy Haven, where westerners can drift in and kick back, well away from the pressures of life on the road. Hippy Havens are a natural part of the life cycle of tourism, and Varkala is a good example of a Hippy Haven that's about halfway through its life span. Broadly speaking, travelling spots go through a fairly predictable set of stages. Varkala is probably a shade past the cusp of being a perfect Hippy Haven. It has enough guest houses and restaurants to enable visitors to cut themselves off completely from the harsh reality of travelling in India, and it is utterly beguiling because of it, but at the southern end of the beach there are ominously permanent concrete structures creeping up, and it doesn't take much imagination to see Varkala turning into a genuine brochure destination over the next few years, losing a good deal of its charm as it does so. Right now, though, Varkala is a classic, template-based travellers' haunt. It has a pretty little beach where the locals seem to tolerate bikini-clad women with a reasonable lack of leering, and the touts, such as they are, are mild-mannered and happy to take no for an answer, as they try to sell you bongos, maps of India and magnetic stones that make the sound of a cicada as you throw them up in the air. The bars lining the top of the cliff are — at the northern end — distinctly bohemian in their approach, with colourfully decorated bamboo shelters overlooking the Arabian Sea, their coloured light bulbs and mandala throws practically insisting that you sit down, kick back and take a big hit on the sea breeze. Hell, there is even dope here, and the gentle waft of marijuana smoke is as much a part of the atmosphere as tandoori fish, or the waft of the increasingly polluted cliff slopes, with their growing collections of empty bottles, plastic bags and yelping dogs. So Varkala is completely generic, and as Peta and I lapped up the delightful atmosphere, the lovely seafood and the gentle thump of the trance, we could have been anywhere. What a great way to ease one's jet-lagged mind into the prospect of exploring India; bravo for the Hippy Havens out there, even if they're sometimes rather hard to tell apart.

Buy marijuana Varkala