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A little weary, we were taken to a dark, wooden cabin with a thin mattress on the floor and an array of old dusty shell mobiles hanging from the rafters. The backpackers we had booked into was, for a lack of other words, full of character. The upkeep seemed minimal, although the rooms were surprisingly clean. Old fishing tackle hung as strangely decorative ornaments, and driftwood, old surfboards, shells and broken snorkels nestled between tropical plants, like they were washed up with the tide. As the days went past, I started to reflect that it is perhaps this lostness which appeals to the weary backpacker taking a break from tour buses in bustling cities. It is a place to come in with the tide and be hidden amongst the hibiscus. And with the tide we came to Tioman island on a ferry. A big, comfortable, safe ferry. I was 21 when I put on my first backpack and set sail for the world. I was determined that a baby would not change our discovery of new places. So with Jack, our 4 month old baby, in his front carrier and a backpack on each of our backs, we boarded the ferry to Tioman island, Malaysia. Backpacking with a baby is not easy. I forfeited a number of clothes to make space for baby clothes, towels and blankets. Imagine 10 days of using 10 disposable nappies — who has space for nappies? Instead we took 6 covers and 24 inserts, found a bucket and hand washed daily. Actually my husband hand-washed the nappies as he said I needed a holiday too. In many ways, Juara beach is the most perfect location in the whole world. All accommodation in found directly on the beach with beach views and, apart from a few local surfers and a handful of tourists, the beach was desserted in monsoon season. One night it struck me that perhaps my time of staying in cheap backpackers is coming to an end. The young travellers were celebrating a birthday party and the beer cans were piling up. The music was loud and repetitive and the echoes of drinking-game songs filled our cabin our new cabin, which actually had a bed. We felt like the party-poopers shuffling to the communal area to ask them to move the party to the other side of the hostel. And it struck me odd that I could smell marijuana, considering that Malaysia has the death penalty for drug sellers and life in prison for drug possession. But then I remembered that youth believe they are invincible. He never cries. I wear him to help him feel secure. I breastfeed him. Possibly the best advice I received to avoid colic and long crying spells was to limit the amount of stimulation. Feeding Jack was a never a problem. No sterlising bottles, warming the milk or mixing the formula. So I would usually find a quiet corner, cover up and attempt to feed discreetly. Jack stretches out his arms and legs and takes up the space of a full adult so my husband and I are forced to sleep like pins as still as a photograph. My husband attempted to sleep in the hammock on two occasions to give us more space which helped us more than him, I think. And like all holidays, ours needed to come to an end. Unfortunately, the seas were too rough and no ferries were operating for another 11 days. We had no more money or clean clothes so as a last resort to get off the island, we joined a charted boat of cowboys who sped across the open sea on a very bumpy 2 hour ride. It was neither big, comfortable or safe. We were soaking wet, I got sea sick and we were surprised that we were still alive after the driver lit up a cigarette while refueling the boat. But somehow my angel slept through it all. We were going home for a holiday. Email Address:. The Dowies in Asia. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Comments 1 Comment Categories South Korea. Certainly not a dull holiday. Thanks for sharing. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Check my other blogs Oriental Balcony - recycle, reuse! Follow Blog via Email Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Email Address: Follow Join other subscribers. Blog Stats 13, hits. Catherine Dowie thedowiestravel. Blog at WordPress. Oriental Balcony - recycle, reuse! A fine WordPress. The Dowies in Asia 2 travellers and a baby. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Design a site like this with WordPress.

Everything you need to know before visiting Malaysia

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Dynamic, multi-cultural and hugely underrated, Malaysia is Southeast Asia 's unsung tropical hero. Marrying tradition, nature and modernity , it's a country of space-age cityscapes, Islamic minarets and gilded Chinese shrines. It's a world where South Indian temples back onto million-year-old rainforests, and this mish-mash can be a lot to process for first-timers. From what to pack to navigating the nation's ethnic and religious tapestry, these are the top things to know before you embark on a trip to Malaysia — an experience that can often feel like being in several countries at once. Be prepared for many types of culture shock. In multi-ethnic yet predominantly Islamic Peninsular Malaysia, a This means that red lantern-studded Chinese temples sit next to Hindu gopurams temple gates and the onion-shaped domes of intricate, modern mosques. Prayers go up to the sky in three main languages — Bahasa Malaysia, Mandarin, and Tamil — and to three main religions: Islam, Chinese Taoism and Hinduism. The former has some 26 different ethnic groups, most of whom are Christian or Protestant, while Sabah is home to another 33 who communicate in over 50 languages and 80 dialects. All you really need to pack are light, loose-fitting cotton clothes to best cope with heat and humidity, and a pair of sneakers and flip-flops. If you forget anything, you can pick it up here. Also pack a hoodie or light jacket to prepare for the Malaysian habit of keeping air conditioning to frosty levels, especially inside shopping malls, buses and trains. Kuala Lumpur must be one of the world's most futuristic cities, with ever-expanding highways, towers and skyscrapers eternally contending for space. Beyond the capital, there's excellent 4G mobile network coverage and fast wifi at most hotels and guest houses across the nation. Celcom is the best operator when traveling the Peninsula's jungly interior and Borneo. ATMS cashpoints are widely available but thin out in the countryside, and they are often hard to find outside of Borneo's main cities. Stock up on the local currency, the Malaysian ringgit, if planning to go off the grid. The delightfully spicy intricacies of Malaysian food a concoction of curries, southern Chinese cuisines and pan-Indian dishes that never stop intermarrying are best consumed fresh off the street, served without embellishments by local 'uncles' — slang for older person — on plastic plates. The alternative is to sit and rub elbows with locals at a food court, or 'hawker center' — large open areas, usually covered by a rooftop, packed with simple food stalls squeezed one against the other. Due to the constant heat, Malaysia's dress code is very casual. Wearing short pants, sandals, flip-flops and t-shirts is the accepted norm everywhere but is considered rude when visiting public offices, where long slacks, close-toed shoes and collared shirts are expected. In Malaysia's many kampung villages , avoid revealing outfits to comply with local religious sensibilities. Modesty is also essential when choosing your beachwear. Bikinis and speedos are fine at big hotels, resorts and the tourist islands off the East Coast, such as Pulau Perhentian and Pulau Redang. But it's best to wear one-piece bathing suits and knee-length swimming trunks on any other beach, where the locals dip fully clothed. Compared to its backpacker-centric Southeast Asian neighbors Thailand , Cambodia and Vietnam , Malaysia is a more expensive party destination because of heavy taxes on alcohol, which is forbidden to Muslims. The rest of the population is free to drink but forced to pay a higher price. Alcohol is widely available in major tourist cities like Kuala Lumpur , George Town , Ipoh , Melaka and Johor Bahru, while in smaller towns, beer is most often available at Chinese-run businesses. The best antidote to steep drink and cigarette prices is a visit to the tax-free islands of Langkawi and Tioman. Picking up some survival Bahasa Malaysia Malay language , the national lingo, is pretty straightforward — with its Roman alphabet and absence of tones, it's one of the easiest Asian languages to learn. But it's fine to speak English, especially with Malaysian Chinese and Indians, whose mother tongues are not Malay. Blame it on the British colonization, but practically everyone can communicate in English, and most prefer to do so when talking to foreigners. When pointing at someone or something, use the thumb and not the index finger, which is considered rude in Malaysia. Always keep your voice down, for raising the tone is an absolute no-no. Also, asking for help can sometimes be tricky, as many Malaysians take such questions as 'losing face' or an invasion of their personal space. When shaking hands, always remember to use your right hand, for the left is considered 'toilet hand' in any Islamic culture. The only dining etiquette that matters in Malaysia is to never use the left hand when trying to eat with fingers like many locals do. When a bunch of foreign tourists bared their bottoms on top of Mount Kinabalu in , enraged Kadazan-Dusun locals blamed their act for the consequent magnitude 5. The animist beliefs that predate the arrival of Islam to the Malay Peninsula have helped foster a highly regarded supernatural world in which nature plays a crucial role. For example, it's common to 'ask for permission' before urinating in the jungle, from where locals never bring anything back for fear of piggybacking a curse into their own homes. Whenever a group enters a forest , it's best to give out nicknames or not call out each other at all — spirits are always listening. The orang bunian invisible forest-dwelling creatures comparable to elves can trick hikers and campers into following them deep into the jungle to never be seen again. Because of increasing pollution of water sources and aging buildings fitted with rusted pipes, it's always best to boil tap water before drinking, or buy mineral water. Most hotels allow guests to refill their water containers. Carrying a water filtration system or purifying tablets can come in handy when striking out on multi-day hikes. A single three-digit number, , connects to the police, the fire department, the ministry of health, the maritime enforcement agency and the Department of Civil Defence. Dial if calling from a mobile phone. It is advisable to travel to Malaysia after being inoculated against Hepatitis A, Tetanus and Typhoid. Malaria is generally not an issue in cities and most forested areas, so a prophylaxis is not strictly necessary. Dengue fever occurs sporadically in cities, but as there are no vaccines for it, the best strategy is to not get bitten by mosquitoes — use heavy-duty insect repellent. Malaysia is one of Asia's top medical tourism destinations and boasts private hospitals equipped with excellent facilities. Make sure to have proper health insurance coverage, or be ready to pay for the premium. Traveling in Malaysia is generally a pretty safe experience for travelers of both sexes, but whether they travel solo or in groups, female travelers should pay attention when walking along the busiest roads of capital Kuala Lumpur. Keep your bags away from the roadside, for motorbike snatch thieves are well-known to target women, and some attacks have resulted in a victim's death. While a court ruling suggests change may be afoot, same-sex relationships are not only taboo in Malaysia, they're banned by federal law. In fact, public displays of affection are frowned upon in Malaysia in general, no matter your sexual orientation. Stay away from drugs in Malaysia, where g of cannabis, 15g of morphine or heroin, and 40g of cocaine mean a death sentence. Offenders are shaken down extremely hard or jailed even for carrying much less. This article was first published Feb 27, and updated Jul 25, Bali versus Phuket — how do you choose between these two paradise islands? Malaysia is a dazzlingly diverse country Be prepared for many types of culture shock. Destination Practicalities. Budget Travel. Water Sports. Read more articles.

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