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We had been told the road south from Inhassoro had something like kilometers of lousy EN1 road to traverse, but after that it was smooth sailing. And so it was, after a bit of weaving around pot holes and islands of pavement we were on a beautiful road and rolling south. We had about km to travel today, and it took us around 6 hours with some stopping and traffic. More villages, more farming and people on the road. More traffic. Nothing as dense as parts of Kenya and Tanzania, but persistent. It also got a lot greener, so perhaps this is better farmland as well. Along the way we found the Mozambican street vendor sales technique a bit disconcerting. Whatever they are selling, cashews or pineapples or whatever, they stand in the middle of the lane waving it at you trying to get you to slow down and stop. Then, bang, nary a pineapple to be seen, but oranges, oranges, oranges forever. No more pineapples, no more oranges. Brooms brooms brooms, a lifetime of brooms. And so on. At some point in time we made it to the giant mortar as in mortar and pestle zone. Along the side of the road there were these mortars 2 and 3 feet high, with pestles that are 4 feet long that I think are used for making maize meal. We thought this was great and eventually succumbed to our temptations and bought a giant mortar for about 12 US dollars. The weather continued to be a bit overcast with intermittent light rain. We are spoiled and kept our fingers crossed that the weather would improve once we got to Tofo. We made it to Tofo in the afternoon with plenty of time to figure out our camping scene. We decided to try Turtle Cove, ironically not on the water or near a cove at all, at the suggestion of someone online. We figured we could start here, and then in our wanderings if we found somewhere better we could move the next day. Turtle Cove is a sort of yoga themed eco type place, with bungalows around a sloped center lawn with come camp sites near the bottom of the lawn near the back. The ablutions for the camp sites were also not great, clearly not having been cleaned in some time. Later on a group of teenagers and chaperones from an international school in Maputo showed up to camp, and clearly the area lends itself more to small tents and a group camping than our set up. The staff also rushed out and cleaned the ablutions thoroughly after the group showed up, which was nice. That night proved to be pretty rainy, so we set up the awning, made a fire and did the best we could to enjoy ourselves. We resolved to find somewhere else more suited to a longer stay the next day. In the camp area are a few trees, and a lot of very deep sand and otherwise just a large open area. In the end we never found camping that really ticked all the boxes in Tofu, which is a shame. I did read about people just camping there anyway, as it does have a great view, with the long beach and ocean views right at your doorstep. Tofo is a fun town. The roads are all sand, but for the first time in quite a while there are tourist shops, simple bars and cafes, trinkets and hawkers of t-shirts and bracelets and all the rest. In a way it was sort of sad, marking the end of the wilder parts of our journey, and a beginning of the influence of South Africa and the associated infrastructure. Both the steak and the pizza are to die for, we went back a second time. One night we were sitting inches from two French brothers, and somewhere along the line we chatted and shared our stories. It was all good natured and we enjoyed talking with them about Mozambique, Tofo, politics and the rest. It was pretty funny, they also bemoaned the state of the roads, but they had come from the south. We ended up spending four nights in Tofo and really relaxing. We had planned on camping, but with no camping that did it for us we splurged on our little casa. It was a fantastic deal, right on the beach, a two bedroom little house, kitchen and everything, just really great. The only catch with our bungalow was there was nowhere to park the Land Cruiser. To our surprise no one would take our money. This really went against the grain of our general security practices, but eventually we relented. With everything of value stripped out of the Cruiser or hidden from sight, we left it just parked on the street. We moved it each day to a new spot near by to make it look like it was getting used and sure enough, no problems. Diving is a big thing in Tofo. Tofo is one of the few areas in the world that has whale sharks and manta rays year round, or nearly so. They do swell in numbers at certain times of the year, but they can also be found year round. It turned out that the poor weather had, unsurprisingly, made for poor dive conditions. They had suspended diving for over a week and just resumed. Jenny is an advanced diver, but I am not, so they insisted we do a check out dive first. The area potential sightings of the larger pelagic animals are in advanced conditions, with strong surface currents and up to 30m deep, so a check out dive is perfectly reasonable. I, frankly, was not, as it was in pretty shabby condition, no depth gauge and there was some general disorganization on the dive. Dive not withstanding, I will say that the boating to go diving was great fun. Beach launching and landing a 10 meter RHIB into surf is no joke, and they did an excellent job. The captain of that boat was very good at maneuvering the boat in rough weather and really did his best to keep the ride as comfortable as one could expect in those conditions. It was almost worth going diving just for the boating mayhem. Hitting the beach at full speed in a boat that big is quite something, and they pulled it off very smoothly. And my favorite was the magnum condom used as a waterproofing bag for his hand held GPS. Eventually it was time to leave. Sadly the weather never really got better, but we did get our fill of grilled prawns, some marginal surfing conditions were blown out at the good spots , sandy beach walks, good food and nice wandering around town. Maybe it was the weather, but also leaving Tofo seemed like the beginning of the end of our trip. We felt this sort of inevitability of the end, gravity pulling us to South Africa and the inevitable plane home. Of course what I should have been doing was seeing and doing some of those things, not lamenting not having the time to do so. Also I felt at sort of nostalgia for earlier parts of the trip when each day seemed a bit less known, a bit more to figure out. The closer we got to the end the less options there were and the path remaining would have few detours. I am still having trouble untangling this. It seems that part of the magic of this trip is not just elephants and clear starry nights and welcoming people with big smiles. What makes it unique compared to a week off from work at some tropical beach to relax, is the freedom to be uncertain, to make a mistake or be delayed a day and to just not know. In life at home, either by necessity or choice, we make sure that we are at the right place at the right time, commute to work, work, drive home, make dinner, exercise from this time to that, need to go to bed to get enough sleep to get up and do it again. Maybe we shake things up every once in a while, a weekend away, or dinner with friends. And these are all good things! I am looking forward to all those things, to seeing our friends and family, to getting back to work and to chip away at projects on our house. Being domestic and cooking dinners and watching a show at night, being settled in seems like it will be quite wonderful at times. But our lives get filled up and we end up without the freedom to change very much. This trip has given us the freedom of uncertainty, to wonder what will happen next instead of to know, and to be okay with that. Fabulous post. I love the photos and the personal thoughts. Glad you like it! Skip to content. Next time, onto Limpopo National Park, Kruger, and some visa issues. Share this: Facebook X. Like this: Like Loading Tags : EN1 , Mozambique , Tofo. Previous Post Into Mozambique. Suzy Beal July 4, Reply. Andrew and Jenny, Fabulous post. Suzy Beal. Laura Franklin April 28, Reply. Lovely we going that way May. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Close Panel.

Buy hash online in Tofo