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If you have read some of my posts, you may know that I love to bring back a souvenir or two. They have to be either edible, useful, or of a high quality. Occasionally, a trinket or two finds its way into our house, but with most travel souvenirs they have to be either practical, sewing-related, old and beautiful and, above all useful and wherever possible, ethically produced. In Uzbekistan, I had severe difficulties not to hoard because some of the items for sale there are just so beautiful — or are hard to find anywhere else. Arasta Bazaar is a good place to look, by the way. To get your Shopping in Samarkand and Bukhara started, look in the less obvious places. If you see the famous madrassahs, mosques and mausoleums of Samarkand and Bukhara, you will inevitably come across loads of souvenir shops. Samarkand is an odd one — overly touristified and sanitised in its ancient core, almost like a theme park near the big sights. A lot of the old madrassahs are occupied by souvenir sellers, but I found very little there that I wanted to take home. Samarkand is a large city, the second largest of Uzbekistan, and as such, its majority away from the tourist area is buzzing. But to be honest, other than a ton pf pharmacies and travel agents and clothes shops for Western clothes I did not see many shops that might appeal to the visitor on my trips through the modern city. Local bazaars are a different matter. A lot of what you might see as the casual visitor is shops aimed at tourists. Ancient madrassahs, even parts of mosques, have been converted into souvenir shops. In the cells where once religious students lived and studied, you can now buy puppets, fridge magnets, clothes, ikat and tons of other souvenirs. I looked at a few but knowing my way round silk and fabric a little, I did not find them that impressive. I think a lot of the merchandise was mass produced. Tashkent Road in Samarkand has large tourist shops, too. Some of the shop windows did actually look nice, with clothes and bags made from traditional ikat fabric. However, I found the street really sanitized and not terribly appealing devoid of any local life. You can skip the walk by taking one of the oversized gold cats that shuttle visitors between the two complexes. A notable exception was the Bibi Khanym Tea House. I really loved that place, and finding not much vegetarian food around, I went there about three times! It is friendly, has ample outdoor seating and lots of Uzbek food as well as some Russian and Western staples. On my first day, having arrived on the red eye flight from Moscow, I rolled in there at lunch time, bleary eyed and still fighting off a nasty cold, and devoured some manty, assorted salads and a huge pot of green tea. I returned and even though my bill was sometimes small tea and a salad , they let me sit there for hours. Certainly touristy with its pictorial menus, but I think one of the better places and yes, a section for vegetarians which is a rarity in Uzbekistan. Uzbekistan is exemplary when it comes to championing seasonal food. While I browsed in the Siyob Bazaar, I found almost exclusively seasonal produce as well as preserved foods, in this case… pickles! Now I do not advocate bringing some local sauerkraut home, but the array of foods that can be preserved is baffling. East as much as you can while there. There were also some dried nuts and fruits cherries and apricots for sale. What I did buy, though is some of the local bread. It comes plain or decorated into shapes and adorned with seeds and stamps. I did buy a couple breads on my last day in Siyob Bazaar and carried them home in my suitcase, then froze them… almost a year later they still tasted wonderful. I know this is not the standard souvenir, but once I had given up finding a restaurant that served veggie food, I had just resorted to buying apples, pickles cabbage and a loaf of bread, and loved the bread so much! They also come in really interesting styles. The bread I saw for sale in the street and on the market in Bukhara was usually a round shiny loaf decorated with a stamped pattern and Nigella seeds. The bread below I got in Bukhara, shaped like a flower. So imagine my delight when I found an array of tea pots, plates and bowls in various sizes in a household goods shop in Siyob Bazaar. That Siyob Bazaar turned out to be a treasure trove. Yes, there were a few shops with textiles and souvenirs if questionable provenance too, but the section facing the Hazrat Khidr Mosque are the real deal. I bought the tea pot, a few saucers and bowls of varying sizes. For durable quality, look for more upmarket department stores or buy some much more expensive vintage ones. It was just a coincidence that I saw the household goods shop in Siyob Bazaar had a large rolls of cotton on display — at ridiculous prices. I cannot remember how much everything cost, I just kept becoming more and more wide-eyed as I had the salesman pull metre and after metre off the roll. The household store fabric is a relatively thin cotton, not extremely high quality, but decent looking with a crisp pattern. It also drapes nicely. But at less than 0,50 Euro per metre… who am I to complain? I have not cut into it yet but I think they will eventually turn into everyday summer dresses or cover-ups. Given that many local ladies wear either a longish tunic top and either jeans or wide-legged trousers in a matching fabric, these fabrics are obviously used for dress making and should endure a bit or washing and wearing. When it comes to quality shopping, I found Bukhara the easier place to go on a shopping excursion. Not only is Bukhara a much smaller city, but the touristic attractions are embedded in the old city which is almost exclusively pedestrianized and dotted with ancient bazaar buildings and trading domes, making Bukhara an almost natural shopping city. Starting near the Lyabi Hauz Complex, you will encounter an ancient route of trading domes given over mostly to souvenir and handicraft shops, with the rather popular pedestrian route between them full of tourist shops, too. They are completely taken over by tourist-oriented shops, but there are some great shops in there. In quality of the merchandise, I liked the middle one, Toqi Telpak Furushon, the most. It is architecturally pleasing, cool, and a pleasure to browse. A lot of the sellers here are friendly, knowledgeable and not intrusive at all. I found the prices very reasonable too, but leaving a little room for negotiation especially if you are buying multiple items and paying cash in Uzbek Som. I found shopping here pretty straightforward, easy, and without pressure. Uzbekistan was and is a major producer of cotton and silk. Uzbekistan is the worlds third-largest producer of silk and while production is concentrated in the Fergana Valley, you can buy it all over Uzbekistan. They are not far behind with cotton, a major cash crop and export. Even though I try to use less silk for animal welfare reason, I cannot deny loving it as a fabric — luxurious, colourful and strong. So I had no doubts I would bring at least one piece back. I got my first look at traditional hand-loomed ikat fabric at the Tim Abdullah Khan. The true ikat silk fabrics are very narrow, about 40 to 60cm. Which puts a bit of a dampener on wanting to sew dresses and shirts. It is conveniently located between Lyabi Hauz and the Toqi Sarrafon. It does get consistently good write-ups on the internet, and you may have heard of it if you are a sewist but its not marked on any maps online. And the great reviews are justified! The first time I visited, I met the owner in the store, presiding over shelves full of the most beautiful fabrics in various qualities. The ones on display outside the store are the cheaper cotton ikat fabrics. Feruza herself would help you find what you are looking for. She speaks good English and welcomed visitors heartily, even those just browsing. And of course, soon enough, with a few sewists gathering in the shop, small talk about what fabric works best for what ensued, and most people walked out with a piece of beautiful fabric. The shop is bigger than Feruza and offers a somewhat wider range of different qualities, and the shopkeeper was just as friendly and helpful. For ikat, it is basically cotton, cotton-silk mix and silk. Cotton is the cheapest, at about Euro per metre, with silk the most expensive at around Euro per metre. Also bear in mind that some of this are made on traditional looms and are typically 40cm wide, sometimes 60cm if you are lucky. A real challenge if you want to sew clothes unless you are stick thin. But they are so beautiful. Even though they contain silk, which I do not buy tons of, because obviously the silkworms get killed in the process, and as a quasi-vegetarian I try to really restrict my usage of leather and silk. There are some other very nice fabrics too, all made in Uzbekistan — see more detail below. I also bought this very pretty ikat-style cotton fabric, which is a more manageable cm width. It is also Uzbek cotton, and feels thick and very soft. I bought it as a pre-cut piece, great to make clothing. Prices in this shop are fixed, although there was leeway for a little negotiation when paying in cash in Uzbek Som and when buying multiple items. I am also rubbish at haggling especially in nice local-run shops like this, especially when prices appeared this reasonable. I paid the Som equivalent of Euro for 4 metres of narrow silk ikat and the 3m pre-cut cotton piece. If I remember right, the silk was between 15 and 20 Euro per metre. Below is my haul from Minzifa textiles. First up a slightly wider 60cm cotton ikat. When asking about wider fabrics, the shopkeeper also showed me some pre-cut pieces of vintage machine-loom Soviet silk. It is at least 30 years old, probably older, really thick yet drapes wonderfully, and in excellent condition. I expect it to be really durable, and the weight is suitable for clothing, so I bought it. About 25 Euro for just over 3 metres. In Minzifa Textiles I paid 70 Euro altogether for 8 metres of the somewhat wider cotton ikat and 3m of silk fabric. The cotton ikat was about 6 Euro per metre, the silk piece was 30 Euro — for rough orientation, as there was a little price negotiation, too. I admit a big omission here — Suzani textiles. They are somewhat in fashion and I do like the pretty flower-covered embroideries, but they are not usually my style, no can they be turned into garments. So I did not buy any. I saw at least two shops in the Toqi Telpak Furushon that sold exclusively Suzani textiles, so that might be a good bet. Minzifa textiles also had some vintage Suzani for sale, and although not a huge choice, I think their wares are genuine and high quality. With the country neighbouring classic carpet countries like Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, you can expect a decent choice of carpets in Uzbekistan, too. There are several show rooms with new Uzbek carpets between the trading domes mentioned above. Prices are quite high — think US-dollars for a medium sized 2x3m carpet. Not only is the building a beautiful old trading place, the choice of vintage carpets there is baffling. There is a carpet factory in Samarkand that does tours and also sells to visitors but Bukhara won hands down on carpet showrooms. Having just moved from a tiny galley to a normal-sized kitchen, I had a cupboard or two to fill with useful implements. I liked these pretty copper and brass coffee pots, but whoah! I think I have seen something very similar in Armenia, and my suspicion is they were not hand made. Similarly, the prices for these really striking vintage Soviet bowls sold in the street just outside Mir-i-Arab Madrassah were beyond comprehension. Really strong porcelain, crisp colours and some simple bold patterns. I really wanted one, but US-Dollars for one? No thanks. Pretty but somewhat overpriced for something industrially made. Anyway, they are extremely pretty and much in line with the modernist aesthetic. Then again, some other things appeared to be hand made and a lot cheaper, and just as charming. I always wanted some embroidery scissors in the shape of a bird. Traditionally shaped like storks, they were first midwife tools in the 19th Century Europe and USA, to clamp umbilical chords — and for needlework while waiting for the delivery… They are not that rare, even Victorinox and Prym make modern ones these days. But in Bukhara, they were taken to a new level — we still have a lot of stork birds here, but other birds get a look in, too. I got two, one for myself and one fot my friend. Looking at the detail, they are at least hand-finished, and I actually went to a work shop to observe them being assembled and the beaks sharpened. There were also some beautiful knifes, but I did not want to push my luck too far with Aeroflot. Also, these birdies caused me a nice delay in Sheremetyevo. I paid approcimately Euro for each of these. They are pretty special and I have only seen them in Bukhara. Every place in the ex-Soviet Union and even former Socialist countries has its fair share of Soviet memorabilia. So it was no surprise to find the Soviet souvenirs in Bukhara en masse. First, these lapel pins, which often have striking s design and are usually good quality enamel and age well. They make a nice souvenir if you are into wearing lapel pins and badges. A lot of them are really inoffensive, usually sporting events and the like, rarely you find the Lenin bust ones now. They should not cost more than 1 Euro apiece. Moving on to somewhat more expensive stuff — watches! The Soviet Union actually had a decent reputation for quality watches, and many vintage models have been cast off and are now being sold to memorabilia-loving tourists. Some of the designs, especially from the s and s are really cool. Depending on where you visit, they can range from super low prices to ridiculous rip-off. The price also depends on quality, design and functionality of the watch. The calibers are often sturdy, keep good time and are easy to service. Depending on the popularity of a model, they cost about Euro if purchased online, so if you find one you like, consider some light haggling as they should cost well under Euro. These vintage watches are souvenirs you will find in many ex-Soviet countries, often at very cheap prices. Again, Bukhara has many spice stalls among its souvenir shops. Bear in mind none of these spices are grown in Uzbekistan, but are imported, so may not always be the best deal. What a lot of these spice stalls sold were pretty little spice containers and bread stamps. Unashamedly touristy, the large tea house is a cool oasis on a hot day, allowing for a leisurely break with tea, sweets and a bit of shopping. The menu is small, consisting basically of tea, coffee and sweets costing 5 US-Dollars per person for the whole lot, with some free refill. It is a lovely place to linger and have a break. There is a small sales stall where they sell their tea blends and spices. I thought the spices were a bit expensive — when compared to the Middle East. But given the quality of the tea, probably still a good bet. I hope you enjoyed my little shopping trip to Samarkand and Bukhara! Remember, Samarkand might be better for everyday local things, Bukhara has some high-quality handicraft outlets. Shopping in both cities is a delight and unless you want a carpet, you will spend relatively little money for some really nice souvenirs. I highly recommend early spring to visit — apart from very little seasonal produce being available for vegetarians, and the many hotels and restaurants just about to open for the tourist season. While out sightseeing I saw ONE tourist group, and that was it! A few individual travellers who spoke Russians, and what appeared to be visitors from the Far and Middle East in families or couples. The major sights were really quiet, and I could just walk into restaurants without having a reservation and book hotels on the day or one night in advance. The temperatures were a balmy Celsius, and there were clear skies all through my visit, and it still got very cool at night — but with central heating pretty much in even the simplest guest house, it was not a problem. I flew from Berlin to Samarkand on Aeroflot , which operate modern aircraft and transferring in Sheremetyevo Airport was pain-free and efficient — highly recommended. I stayed at then Hotel Rahmon in Samarkand. It was ultra spartan and accordingly cheap, but amazingly friendly, central and they served a huge cooked breakfast lovingly cooked by a family member. Read my full review here. It was also relatively spartan, but their breakfast was the very best — read my full review here. I then cheapskated it to another online special offer at the Chor Minor Hotel in a residential area — both hotels were extremely clean, comfy, welcoming and I would stay in both again. The Uzbek Som is the national currency, and at present 10 Euro will convert into approximately Som, and you will end up with a pile of bank notes. There is some inflation, as I remember 1 Euro converting into about Som. I did not find it expensive at all, paying about Euro for a hotel room including breakfast, 12 Euro for the return trip to Bukhara on the high-speed train and Euro for a sit-down meal with non-alcoholic drinks and coffee. Some prices, for example the silk ikat, were quoted in US-Dollars but often vendors preferred payment in Uzbek Som in cash although they would accept Euro or US-Dollars when asked. Samarkand Airport has no such facilities, so I paid my taxi with some dollar bills. The smaller hotels and guesthouses I stayed in tend not to change money, but I understand big hotels do, I am unsure of the rate. Since nothing cost much while there, I did not really need much money once in the country, and even paid all my hotels in cash or prepaid on Booking,com where possible. I visited Uzbekistan in March , planning and paying for this trip from my own funds. I did not receive any monetary or non-monetary rewards for making any recommendations here. Some of my accommodation links are affiliate links to Booking. I stayed in all the places I recommend. Hi Carol, thank you! I tend to stick to food stuff and a small piece of silver jewellery if I find nothing. And I admit I try to get the worst magnet from any new place for our fridge wall of fame. I really enjoyed reading this, thank you! I often struggle knowing what souvenirs to buy as I want something meaningful. Your photos are so beautiful and make me really want to visit and buy lots! Hi Rachel, thank you for your comment! I hate souvenirs lying around and catching dust, so meaningful shopping means a lot! I hope you can visit — Uzbekistan really is stunningly beautiful. Beautiful photos! There are so many things you highlighted that I would love to buy. I can imagine it is a difficult place to restrain yourself! This is interesting. Will take your advice not to leave the market without tasting bread fresh. Thank you for sharing it. Nice idea to bring it home too. Hi Clarice, thank you for your comment! The only downside of not visiting in summer probably was being limited to bread, cabbage and preserved veggies — the fresh fruit and vegetables in season I heard is amazing! I agree when you travel a lot bringing back souvenirs can get to be too much. Hi Rachel, yeah, if in doubt, get something edible! Best memories ever. I have trouble consuming mine sometimes because, well they are souvenirs and special — do you have the same problem? You shop well and tell the story of shopping well. I used to bring just magnets from every place! This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. If you disable this cookie, we will not be able to save your preferences. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again. Like this: Like Loading Author: Anja. On the wine train in Cricova — with some fine cut-price wine on board. Charming Milazzo — the underrated Gateway to the Aeolian Islands. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. All rights reserved. Kale by LyraThemes. 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Buy hash online in Samarkand