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Ali Bey Popular three-star in an attractive year-old mansion near the bazaar. Tislaki Mahallesi, Kafadar Sokak No. Anadolu Evleri One of a group of four charming old stone Anatolian guesthouses with courtyards, located near the fortress and close to Old Town restaurants. Divan Gazianetp Otel This smart outpost belongs to a chain that delivers four-star modern accommodation, primarily for business travellers. Comfortable and good value for money. H vahan Han The best small hotel in town and one of the best in Turkey. Overlooked by the castle, its elegant rooms boast stone walls and a monochrome colour scheme, and are set around a courtyard and restaurant, where hanging out after the heat of the day is bliss. Mustafa Baba Sokak, Karabese 46, meleklarabutikotel. Bey, Eski Sinema Sokak No. Gaziantep — or Antep, as it is known locally — is the capital of the Gaziantep Province. Currency is the Turkish lira TRY. Time is three hours ahead of GMT. Flights from the UK take around seven hours. In August the average high is 34C and the average low is 21C. Return flights from London produce 1. Prices are per person for three courses and a drink, unless otherwise stated. Incirlipinar Mahallesi 1, Caddesi No. Kasap Halil Usta Arguably the best kebaps in town. Fatih Mahallesi, 24 Nolu Sokak No. Tabakhane, Kozluca Mahallesi, Caddesi No. Sakip Usta This smart eatery serves classics, such as head-to-tail lamb, in unique ways. Yesemek On the fringe of the bazaar, visit to sample myriad meze dishes. It reminds him of the dish his mother used to make before sending him to school. Bridegrooms-to-be fortify themselves with it between sweating and massage. Gaziantep belongs to an elite club of Unesco Cities of Gastronomy. To think of it as a centre for fine dining would be doing it a disservice. Eating well pulses through every level of society. The market traders rising at 4am know where to buy the best beyran peppery soup made from neck of lamb. Competition for the best katmer cellophane-thin pastry filled with nuts and cheese is fierce. The centre of a province bordering the Euphrates, it bulges with fruit and vegetables from the Fertile Crescent. On the ground, the clutter of streets and alleys around its medieval castle have the aura of a glittering souk. They give way to an urban mass of low-rise blocks through which traffic clags and snarls. Under the Ottomans, the Aleppo Province governed Gaziantep. Then, it was a prosperous staging post on a branch of the Silk Road. After the creation of modern Turkey, it severed ties to Aleppo. Since then the camps have closed. Local laws let Syrian families stay, but many have returned home. On the surface, at least, scars have healed. In restaurants, freshly coiffured women share gossip with friends wearing hijabs. From the city to Lake Birecik, a dammed stretch of the Euphrates, the landscape veers between bald hills and plains crammed with pistachio orchards. Their growth, harvest and endless culinary uses touch everyone. The Kurdish picker, climbing trees to snap clusters of nuts from branches, scratches a living. Village co-operatives supply the processors. Their graded kernels and roasted nuts feed into the local markets. Exporters trade on a world-beating reputation. Trees yield two crops sometimes three a year. The first late July, start of August provides the finest pea-green fruit. Sun-dried, they are what pastry chefs crave. Antep — the familiar name of Gaziantep — is home to the best baklava in the world. And yufka filo pastry is much older. But he does have an opinion as to why it was better here than anywhere else. Istanbul is more humid. He would also argue that pinning the 30 or so layers with a broomstick-long oklava significantly improves on mechanical rolling. He hires women to shell them by hand because, he says, they do a much better job than machines. He opens at 6am because breakfast is an important meal in Gaziantep. Baking bread is an all-day event. The leavened loaves emerge from the oven dimpled by thumbprints. Lahmacun , a thin-crust pizza with lamb, peppers and tomato, minced with a scimitar-bladed knife, is always eaten hot. There are two types of lavas. One is an oversized, puffed-up pitta bread that deflates dramatically when torn. The other, soft as a face flannel, large as a tea towel, is the classic wrap. Gripping it with one hand, he tears off a swatch big enough to cover a dinner plate. Next, he peels away the charred aubergine skin and spreads a thick ridge of the pulp through the middle. Its bottom tucked in and the overlapping sides pulled together, it is ready. Everything, the lamb bought direct from the farm, melting aubergine, wood-fire charring, the herbs, the sweetest tomatoes and the tender flatbread has the intense flavour that haute cuisine can never equal. In porkless Gaziantep, no part of a sheep goes to waste. Ali nazik is a peppery hash of cheaper cuts, served on yoghurt and baba ganoush. Chitterlings are stuffed. Self-service roadside restaurants sell kavurma spiced, chopped liver. Every historic Turkish town centre had its four essentials. The hans inns or caravanserai welcomed travellers. The public baths, or hammams, served public hygiene. And last but by no means least, were the bazaars. Its coppersmiths are famous. Aside from decorated bowls and trays, they hammer out basins the size of bathtubs and handled jugs for pouring strong Turkish coffee. Cobblers on stools deftly stitch multicoloured Yemeni shoes. Sun-dried peppers strung up in clusters hang from awnings. Milled, they form pyramid shades of red in the spice stalls. If there were a single variety, it would be impressive, but there are dozens. The dark Middle Eastern Urfa is mild. Ipek Maras pul biber, sometimes hot, sometimes mild, is ground extra fine as a seasoning. And the list goes on. Is it a sauce, a relish, a paste? The answer is all three. Making it can be a collective, extended family affair. Men harvest and grind the peppers. Women spread a carpet of the fresh pulp to dry, turning it day by day under a baking sun till the flavour concentrates. Knowing how to select and dose each kind personalises every dish. For atom , a palate-blowing meze dish, he fries dried Urfa biber for a few seconds, sprinkles chilli powder on top and then serves it on a bed of tangy strained yoghurt. Local government has taken its reputation so seriously that it has opened its own restaurant. Its database reflects research into hundreds of regional recipes and variations. At one level, it offers the safe route to sampling an unfamiliar cuisine under expert guidance. The waiters are groomed. The chefs in pristine whites cook over the latest-model, glossy stainless-steel ranges. And its shop stocks the spices, syrups, oils and cereals which seem so exotic when encoutered in the market. Words by Michael Raffael. Photography by Mark Parren Taylor. To subscribe today, click here.

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Buy hash Gaziantep

Watch the report. By Monica Pinna. Share this article Comments. Share this article. You might also like Turkey: e-Food cards for refugees. No Comment: Turkey provides aid to Lebanon, evacuates citizens.

Buy hash Gaziantep