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A post shared by Paola Genovese gladan You might think of Colombia as the cartel controlled country of Pablo Escobar and the Orejuela brothers. You might think of it as a dangerous, messy country where guerrilla groups like FARC kidnap politicians and affluent people to finance their cause and paramilitary groups, financed by drug money, fight the insurgents. With the dismembering of the Medellin and Cali cartels, and the disarmament of guerrilla groups like the FARC, things have changed. And people are eager to show the true make of their country. Which is kind, not violent. Humble, not arrogant. Focused on productivity, not idleness. When we got to Santa Marta in mid February, they had recently relaxed the Covid restrictions, and we were struck by the incredible amount of people strolling about the streets of the small town centre, around Parque de los Novios, buzzing with bars and restaurants. Santa Marta and the whole province of Magdalena it belongs to had really strict anti-Covid measures in place during the lockdown, with the town almost completely shut for 5 consecutive months. No wonder people were so eager to go out now that they could! Wearing masks was compulsory, and there was still a curfew in place; restaurants would shut around 8pm and no one was allowed out after 11pm. We were not really troubled by these restrictions, and happy to be able to travel around to discover the beauties of such a wonderful country, despite the unfortunate circumstances. We spent the first week in Colombia visiting Minca, a beautiful and peaceful town in the foothills of Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, and the National Park of Tayrona, both easily reachable by cab from Santa Marta. Just be aware of mosquitos when you go there! We got eaten alive by some kind of Frankenstein mosquitos, whose bites would leave you with and a strong desire of peeling your skin off to get rid of the unbearable itchiness…. Having said that, we had great fun visiting the thermal waters of Pozo Azul, which were freezing cold and gave us a nice break from the heat. We went there on a Monday morning, as we were told it can get quite busy at weekends. Colombians tend to come here to cool down and relax after the working week. After our dip in the refreshing waters of Pozo Azul, we were taken to La Victoria coffee plantation by motorbike, up the winding roads of Minca, and then through dirt roads across the jungle. Once there, we headed straight to the bar and tried some tasty arepas — it was passed lunchtime and we were all starving! Lunch was followed by a first taste of their coffee, then our tour guide appeared and took us around the coffee plantation. The visit lasted about an hour and was very interesting thanks to our knowledgable guide. The Tayrona National Park is a massive park, with 3 entrances and different routes you can either walk or ride with horses. We chose the middle entrance, El Zaino, and walked for 2 and half hours, all the way to Capo San Juan, and then back. While walking along the paths through the forest, we saw Capuchin monkeys sitting on tree branches and skilfully opening and eating coconuts. We also spotted a capybara, and some parrots amongst other wildlife. The landscape was incredible throughout, and there were plenty of little kiosks along the way, selling all kind of refreshments. We even had a proper hot lunch, with grilled fish and ceviche, in one of the many restaurants by the beach. By the end of the day, we were exhausted and decided to spend the night in an eco-resort near the Park, Quetzal Dorado, www. A small premise, before getting into the nitty gritty of what happened just after 11pm at Santa Marta marina, sometime around mid February Many years ago I made the mistake of telling GC that I really liked his feet and hands! This particular night of mid February at Santa Marta marina, he was adjusting the mooring lines as the wind had picked up and was now blowing quite strongly. And the boat was often covered in red sand that was difficult to get rid of…. Pain and blood followed. Someone else instead was already sleeping very deeply and soundly, dreaming of walking around Cartagena while eating an ice cream! Suddenly, someone was calling her name, one, two, three times…Paola, Paola Paola! The sound becoming louder and louder. Rather annoyed, this someone finally woke up and dragged herself upstairs still half asleep…. What was in front of my eyes was a war like type of scenario. For the first 5 minutes I could not stand up! I had very limited autonomy as my head kept spinning around, and I had to keep my centre of gravity very low when walking around trying to help Gc, gathering bandages and antiseptic spray. He was adamant he was not badly hurt and we could just go to sleep and deal with it the day after. Thanks to Kelly, and all the marina staff, who were very helpful and supportive, we got in touch with a private clinic that was happy to receive us and look into the matter more closely. Several forms later, Gc was given a real life tutorial on how to give stitches to…his foot! He kept saying we needed to learn how to do it, in case of accidents at sea, so I guess this was his chance to learn first hand…or first foot :! The miles between Aruba and Cartagena are famous for having the worst weather conditions in the Caribbean, and the passage ranks among the top five worst passages around the world. It goes without saying, we were all a bit nervous before departing. To be on the safe side, I called all family members and friends in case it was the last time I heard their voices :! When we first bought Gladan, I enjoyed sailing so much more! You know why? I had no idea of all the things that could break and go wrong and therefore it was all about, you know, enjoying!! The things you learn along the way! Well, two kind of experienced sailors and a beautiful anchorwoman in charge of reporting our sailing voyage minute by minute. The wind was 20 to 25 knots so quite ideal for sailing, but the sea was very confused with waves coming from different sides, making the first part of the journey rather uncomfortable. The sky was grey most of the day but, at least, it did not rain. We also got signal because of the proximity to land, so Gc could do some of his beloved Facebook lives and Beatrice could speak with Ludovico to reassure him; we had started our trip and we should get to Colombia in a day or two…. The best part of the trip was the 2nd night of sailing, when we passed by the Los Monjes islands, off the Venezuelan coast. For the first time since we started sailing, I witnessed the phenomenon of bioluminescence. While Gladan was smoothly sailing across the ocean, at a comfortable speed of 7. The funny thing about this phenomenon is that the light produced by the microscopic plankton is actually a defence mechanism. Teeny tiny yes, but incredibly smart! We had planned to round the tricky Cabo de la Vela in daylight but Gladan sailed so fast that we got there around 4 am, in full darkness. The wind blew at 30 knots. We had only the jib on and were ready to reduce it when necessary. We had opted for an in between option from the two conflicting ones that had been recommended to us , and decided to keep 30 miles away from the coast, following the metres depth line. We were all on alert; the treacherous Cabo was here, and so were the huge waves! As in all matters of life, perception is key. Depending on the point of view you adopt when looking at things, you perceive them differently. This applies to waves as well! We had to keep an eye on some unexpected shallow patches we got quite close to, with the sea depth suddenly dropping from metres to less than 20 metres. We realised that something was wrong because the waves quickly got steeper, so we adjusted the route to move away from the shallows. Our destination was close! Little we knew that the worst was still to come. The last few hours were the scariest ones, at least for me. Once we reached Cabo de la Aguja, it was time to turn and start heading south towards the marina de Santa Marta. The wind reached 40 knots and waves were coming from the side. During our last miles, we had big following waves, a few of which broke into the cockpit and flooded it. Luckily no water had got inside, but it could have been very dangerous. I spent the last thirty minutes or so tiding up the messy living area, while Gc and Beatrice were filming the huge seas behind us. Once close to the marina, the sea was flatter and we were filled by the excitement of realising that;. The marina of Santa Marta was different from what we were expecting. It is very modern and surrounded by skyscrapers and high mountains. We celebrated the successful ending of yet another adventure with very cold beers. We had made it through the fifth most dangerous waters in the world, in one piece! A time comes when you know you need to go. You miss that cocktail of freedom, fear and excitement you only experience when sailing. But we had to! With 2. We took it easy and sailed most of the time with only the jib on. When the wind was lighter, 15 to 20 knots, we would have both the jib and the code 0 open. The sailing was very enjoyable, despite the big waves 2. In the past, there have been incidents of boats navigating close to the Venezuelan coast, who had been boarded and robbed, so we were a bit afraid at the idea of sailing in tricky waters. And when I say a bit, I mean I would freak out any time a boat, especially of fishermen, appeared to be chasing us. Mentally, I would go through all the best hiding places on the boat wrapped up inside the code 0, or the second jib, inside one of the spacious cupboards containing electric cables, under the mattress in our cabin, right next to the leaky boiler Gc keeps fixing! I mean Gc did…. During the navigation, we kept at a great distance from the Venezuelan coast, and turned the AIS off at night, from time to time. Luckily, the passage was uneventful, and we only met loads of cargo ships and few fishing boats on our way. The first night was quite challenging as the area off the Grenadines was very trafficked. The other two nights instead, we were almost completely on our own, no one else around except for a great full moon which made the crossing quite magical. Gc and I did 3 hour shifts starting around 9pm and finishing at 9am. I spent time reading books, memorising poems and eating a lot of focaccia, while Gc perfected his technique :! Entering Spanish Waters, the main anchorage, was quite an experience. After months in the Grenadines, we were immediately hit by the change of scenery; luxurious villas scattered along Santa Barbara beach and golf resort, super yachts moored along the pontoon. No chance of them seeing or hearing you if you happen to be swimming in the wrong place. A few weeks before our arrival, a boy had lost his life there, run over by one of these speed boats. The only dinghy dock where you can leave the tender is small and rather neglected. The only positive note is that there is a security service, so less chances of your dinghies being stolen. After 30 minutes on the island, we had already experienced first hand how nice, kind and genuinely happy to help, locals are. The day we arrived and anchored in Spanish Waters after 4 days out at sea, we needed to go to Punda the town centre to check in into the island. We read that it normally takes up to 3 hours to complete the check in. Our case, though, was quite different! After leaving the dinghy at the gated dock, we asked for information about the buses going into town. The guard standing close by told us that they were not very frequent, that we had just missed one, and would have to wait at least an hour for the next. After a quick chat with the driver, we were welcomed aboard a comfortable Toyota Yaris and offered a lift all the way to the Customs office!! Thirty minutes later, we were on a hunt for the immigration office, which was proving very difficult to find…we asked for information and… there we go…. He dropped us in front of the immigration office and waved us bye! What a welcome! Once in the beautiful town centre, we found a nice bar by the canal, and sipped the first cold beer in 4 days, which tasted incredibly great. When we first went to the big Carrefour inside Sambil shopping mall, I felt overwhelmed at the sight of so much food! Fruits and vegetables are so abundant and cheap! Thanks to Beatrice we had a chance to feel on holiday again and spent a few days exploring the island. We went to the north-west part of the island, which is plenty of beautiful beaches, bars and turtles popping their heads out from time to time in Playa Blanca. Jo is a legend around Spanish Waters and does a bit of everything. A few times he had to start his engine in a hurry and quickly sail away to escape from some very upset husbands. My husband wants to kill me! Slim and fit, with blondish hair crowning his head like a crest, and a cigarette always in his mouth, Jo looks a bit like a pirate. He certainly is one of a kind! Despite his rough look, he is a generous, cultured and caring person. After working in a kindergarten for many years, he decided to change lifestyle and career and started working on cargo ships travelling around the world on big beasts. Nowadays, Jo organises day tours for families on his 2 motor boats. When it comes to food, Jo definitely knows his stuff. Going out with Jo meant stopping at every corner to eat something here or drink something there. A constant feast for our palates and souls. Getting back to the Caribbeans after our summer break in Europe was no cup of tea. When Covid started to spread, all Caribbean islands shut their borders to avoid contamination. Health infrastructures in most Caribbean islands are very poor, or sometimes non-existent, so governments have been trying to protect islanders first by isolating them, and then by imposing very strict measures to people visiting their countries. Luckily at least for his pockets , he managed to quarantine on board his beloved Gladan, at Canouan Marina. One night the mosquitos were bothering him so much that, frustrated, he decided to challenge them. He shut himself in the bathroom, turned the lights on and offered himself as bait, waiting for them to attack. Fully armed with towels, our Italian Stallion of the Caribbeans, tried to kill as many as he could, shouting in a frenzy of rage. Luckily, there was no one around to hear him…. Few days went by, and no news from the Dr….. Ten days down quarantine lane, Gc was struggling to sleep and function normally due to the unbearable heat and the unforgiving mosquitos…. By then, with the quarantine almost over, it was time to get another PCR test as that was the requirement to enter the island of Grenada, the next destination. GC got again in touch with Dr. Pope to schedule an appointment. Sorry for what? Gc thought. He had just called him! You were free to leave when your test came back negative, but I forgot to tell you! Gc was on the verge of collapsing! He could have gone to the beach, the restaurant, the pool…. Gladan needed to undergo a bit of aesthetic work since another boat had crushed into us a few months before, while we were at anchor in Deshaies, Guadaloupe, a bay with notoriously bad holding. Once in Grenada, Gladan was hauled out at Clarkes Court shipyard and spent 2 weeks on the hard. We spent 3 weeks anchored in Gand Anse, a huge bay with a 3km long sandy beach. It was a great anchorage as it was quite sheltered from the prevailing winds, and located close to Spiceland Mall shopping centre as well as several good restaurants and bars. We rented a car so that we could move around easily: the island is big and not well connected by minibuses. For us, digital nomads, finding a good spot to work from, whenever we move around, is rather vital. And such place needs to meet certain requirements; fast wi-fi, good coffee, air con possibly not set to freezing temperatures.. As you can imagine, these things are not so easy to find in one place, but this time we were in luck! The first had great smoothies and decent coffee, the latter real Italian coffee and pastries. For drinks and live music Aziz was the place to be! Grand Anse was also close to Port Louis Marina, easily reachable by dinghy. Carriacou is only 15 miles away from Grenada and is part of the same administration, together with Petit Martinique. It is a small and rather wild island with basic expensive provisioning and beautiful natural beauties. We spent most of our time between Tyrell Bay, the main and rather crowded anchorage, and Sandy Island, the most charming place on the island, where you can only stay at a mooring buoy by paying a daily fee. While in Carriacou, we made a lot of friends and spent an incredible couple of weeks, eating loads of really cheap lobsters, snorkelling and walking around to explore the island! Seventy two hours before Gonzalo was meant to hit the leeward islands, we were on our way to Bequia from Union island Grenadines. Within an hour, Frigate Island had quickly turned from buzzing place for kite surfers to open air consultation room, with sailors moving from one boat to the other, small groups assembling and dissipating, people exchanging calls on the VHF…. When we got to the Caribbeans, one year ago, everyone would tell us that hurricanes could be predicted up to 2 weeks before, and that there would be plenty of time to move far away from their eye, in one direction or another. So it should not have come as a surprise when our friend Gonzalo started heading towards us and no one knew, up to 24 hours before, where it would end up! See, the issue with Gonzalo was that it was small and therefore unpredictable! The two main weather forecast systems, the European one and the American one were in total disagreement, with one forecasting Gonzalo heading north and the other south. Within 2 hours from Gonzalo appearing on all forecasting models, I was lifting the anchor and we were on our way north to Bequia, with the possibility of travelling further north once it would become clearer which way Gonzalo would head. So 30 hours before Gonzalo was meant to arrive, all options were still on the table:. Finally, Gc and I decided that on Friday — Gonzalo was meant to hit us on Saturday afternoon — we would wake up early in the morning, check the latest weather forecast, and decide what to do. Friday morning at 6 am, we checked the forecast again and decided that the best option for us was heading south to Canouan Marina only 25 miles away for several reasons;. And so, 20 hours before Gonzalo would hit us, we entered Canouan Marina hoping our choice had been the right one. During our sail down to Canouan, we met several boats sailing south and several others motoring north as fast as possible. Clearly, no one had any idea of what was going on!! After many hours of hard work we took a nice, long, hot shower in the amazing bathrooms of the luxurious marina and went out for dinner at the gourmet restaurant. We checked the weather forecast once more, and with great relief, saw that Gonzalo had been downgraded to tropical storm and was headed south to Grenada! Great news for us, perhaps less for the ones that headed south….! The morning after, around 7 am, Gonzalo arrived — its eye deep south on Trinidad and Tobago. For us, that meant winds of up to 30 knots, with gusts of 40 kt, and torrential rain which only lasted couple of hours. Then it was over! Who else would have thought of using a tropical storm to do some spring cleaning?! After 8 months in the Caribbeans amid a global pandemic, lockdowns, PCR tests, and last but not least, hurricane season, home was looking more and more like a mirage. Would we ever be able to make it back? After loads of research and negotiating, we finally found a safe place where to leave Gladan during the hurricane season so that we could fly back to Europe and see our families and friends. The place was Canouan marina , which is brand new and has been built for luxurious superyachts, slightly bigger than Gladan…. It was built by Italian architects and it looks like a small version of Porto Fino or Porto Rotondo, with the addition of an airpot right next to it, so that yacht owners can fly in and out with their private jets in no time. We found out about this marina thanks to our friends who decided to take refuge inside it when Gonzalo, one of the first hurricanes-to-be of the season, decided to give us all a good scare coming right towards the Grenadines…. And possibly sweat like a pig :! The moorings at the very end of the channel are so sheltered that no breeze will ever reach you! Only mozzies will! Suffice it to say, Gc managed to do yoga inside the shower bed and neither of us had ever taken so many unnecessary showers before! Prices are in EC not dollars, in case you were wondering! The staff seem to take offence every time you venture out for a walk; wherever you are.. The staff is so friendly that it all looks rather unreal. When we planned our trip back to Europe, we thought we had it all figured out. We would need to get a ferry from Canouan to St. And of course, we would need a PCR test, taken 72 hours before travelling. And not just any time in August…. Thanks to our friends Laurie and Tom, we got a lift on their sailing yacht from Canouan to Bequia where we spent 1 night before taking an early ferry to SVG where our first flight would take off from. We got to the airport way in advance and right when I thought I could finally sip the first coffee of the day it was an early start so no time for breakfast… two things happened;. What happened next? I forgot to mention that during one of my many conversations with the ministry of health officials, they had told me that it was ok to fly to Barbados without a negative PCR test because we could get tested at the airport upon arrival. The logic of that totally escaped me, but I was not going to question something that for once worked in our favour, was I? Apparently, they dig up your nose for statical reasons only…. At some point during this whole shenanigan, Gc started to lose his temper and while listening to him explaining to the staff how common sense had gone down the drain and how this was the end of a civilised world….. In the end, we did manage to board the plane, and NO coffee was served during the flight because of Covid…. Life was great again! We spent almost a month in Martinique waiting for borders to open up so that we could head south. We took off from St. Anne around 6pm, accompanied by our friends on board of Living Daylights, Luca and Leyla with their 3 beautiful children. It was a great overnight sail across to St. Lucia and along its coast. Around 5 am we spotted the majestic Pitons in the first lights of the day. I was sitting on the little bench on the port side of the bow, taking in the warm breeze, feeling part of the night, and really connected to the universe, when I heard splashes around me; it was a school of dolphins which ended up escorting us all the way to the end of the island. By 8 am we were still a few miles away from the North side of Saint Vincent. The wind had picked up and it was now blowing at 35 knots. The sea was very flat and Gladan was doing 9 knots with only the jib on! Considering that at 9. We got to Young Island 15 minutes before our appointment, just in time to take a quick shower after a sleepless night. The organisation was great and within 30 minutes we were done with the test and ready to go to sleep after our long night of sail. The swab lasts just a few seconds — the runny nose will stay with you for much longer though! The morning after, before heading south to Bequia, we found the time to climb the steps up to the top of Fort Duvernette, a tall outcrop from which to enjoy an incredible view. The English built this fort to defend the colonial hub where ships were loaded with sugar before sailing off to England. Good old days…. Which is why it reminds us of Leros, in Greece , the island where our sailing adventures almost never started from…. To avoid being sucked up by the island, after 10 days in Bequia, we made our way to the Tobago Cays. Definitely the best place for snorkelling and diving, with thousands of different fishes, turtles and a few nurse sharks. Paradise on earth!! There are tables and benches under the trees and 3 to 5 different stalls selling drinks and food. At the beginning of January , we had lobsters served with rice and salad. Really tasty and so popular you need to book in advance to make sure to find space! This time round, at the beginning of July, we had the Cays almost to ourselves and really made the most of them. The islands are totally wild and you need to get provisioning beforehand as there are no shops or bars. Some fishermen will stop by daily to sell fish or bread and pastries though. When exploring the little island of Petit Tabac, we bumped into some volunteers taking care of the marine park. After the first few minutes of our walk, we started running as quickly as we could… trying to escape from the thousands of mozzies feeding on us! Wild stuff! We sailed to Martinique for the first time in January and arrived in the beautiful and crowded bay of St. Anne, in the southern part of the island, after a short but quite choppy passage from Rodney Bay, St. Back then our friends Salvo and Patti were still on board of Gladan with us, our Australian friends Steve and Deb would shortly join us to explore the island together and none of us had any idea of what would happen to the entire world a few weeks later…. After four months, we are back in the same bay, St. While still very crowded, the atmosphere in the bay has entirely changed. Sailors keen to head north to explore the Leeward islands have now been replaced by weary skippers waiting for borders to open up and quarantines to be lifted to be able to head south, away from the hurricane belt. The Club Med resort on the beach is closed, most restaurants and bars are yet to reopen after the lockdown, and the cute little village has got a sleepy and somber look. A feeding station by the Creole house at the entrance attracts several hummingbirds, who seem to be welcoming you to this tropical paradise! Hike from St. Anne to Grande Anse des Salines. Follow the footpath that takes you along the coast through the woods. It took us more than an hour to get to Les Salines beach and I would advise anyone willing to embark on such a beautiful adventure to bring a lot of water and wear plenty of sunscreen. Along the way, there are several bays where to stop for a quick dip when it gets too hot! Once we reached our destination, we stopped in one of the bars on the beach the one selling fresh local fruits and had a tasty smoothy and a few accras codfish fritters to gain some strength back! Beware of their Capirinha though if you want to get back in one piece! We spent a few nights in this bay and saw beautiful trumpets fish and angelfish amongst many others. The place is normally very popular and therefore busy. Having insisted on trying this restaurant, I was the one to blame…. Luckily, I was saved by the dessert; a chocolate and toasted hazelnuts core fondant, served with coconut ice cream, which we shared and found rather delicious. Gc was in a good mood again! The best restaurant in Martinique, in our opinion, remains Zanzibar, in Le Marin. The atmosphere is sophisticated without being pretentious, the service is excellent and the food is top quality. Big words :! We left the dinghy at the floating pontoon hoping to find it again when back and went out exploring. The village is massive with plenty of little shops selling ceramics and a gigantic brick factory. There are also a few restaurants in the village and we ended up having dinner in a very fascinating Thai restaurant, La Case Thai, totally booked up for the night. Our waitress was the kindest and funniest young lady you can possibly meet and the food was not bad! What an interesting discovery! Three months and a pandemic later, Gladan was finally able to move again! I have to admit leaving Saint Martin was tough…. Before leaving for good, we managed to move from Grand Case to Orient Bay, a wonderful place and number 1 destination for kite surfers. Now, Orient Bay is completely different from Grand Case. It is an upmarket touristy resorts with residences, bars, shops and restaurants. The scenery changes completely and the people around do too. Orient Bay has one of the longest beaches in Saint Martin and is quite exposed to the wind as it is on the East side of the island. Approaching the bay could be quite challenging if the weather is not settled as there are breakers forming at the entrance. By the time Gc managed to stand on the board and actually surf on it for almost 1 minute, it was time to move southward :! With the hurricane season having officially started on 1st June, we were constantly on the lookout for islands whose borders would open soon. Towards the end of May, a post appeared on Saint Martin Facebook group saying that the French prefecture had approved a new decree that would allow boats to move freely between French islands, without having to quarantine. We left Orient Bay on a Saturday at 4 am with a beautiful full moon and very confused waters. The first half day of sailing was very uncomfortable with steep waves coming from different directions and winds stronger than expected. Things started to improve once we passed St. Kitts and Nevis and Redonda island. Few squalls formed in the sky and travelled in our direction, but then, last minute, decided to spare us, leaving us to enjoy the beauty of the night with its silver coloured sea and the warm sea breeze. Gc and I slept on the flybridge doing short shifts of 30 minutes each at first, then 1 hour, then 2 hours once daylight made its appearance around 5am. By then we had sailed to the southern tip of Guadaloupe. The second day of navigation saw us sailing from Guadaloupe to Dominica, which being quite mountainous, was engulfed in clouds and difficult to spot. The weather was nice and we kept on sailing with two reefs on our main and the jib fully open. The highlight of the day was the to-date unknown fish we caught and unsuccessfully tried to identify. The weather conditions started to deteriorate just before sunset, 30 miles from St. Pierre, Martinique; our final destination. We had the wind on the nose and the waves giving us a good, constant shake. We had to roll the sails in and motor all the way to St. Pierre where we got at With only one great regret…. We anchored in the dark, cooked some dinner and went to sleep. The day after we got in touch with Cross Ag the coast guard to inform them of our arrival and to ask permission to go ashore to check in. How would we survive 14 days without any?! After a big sigh of relief, we quickly went ashore, checked in and bought some Bordeaux! You never know what to expect in these difficult times…. Why do people do it? I mean why undergo a stressful and potentially very dangerous passage that can take up to a month when you can catch a plane and spend 8 hours eating, drinking and watching films? I always ask this question when meeting people that have done the crossing. A retired CEO from Switzerland and skipper of a steel boat whom we met in Greece told me that, many years before, she had decided to do the crossing because she wanted to study her own reaction when confronted with limitless waters. Well, I did not get scared. I did not panic. Why did you want to cross the Atlantic? I remember many years ago, I was in Sardinia taking sailing lessons and my instructor mentioned he had crossed the Atlantic. What was the best part of the crossing? Overcoming problems. Problems that seemed fairly important and almost with no solution at first. And then we, I mean the crew and myself, we would put our heads together and think of a way to resolve them. Upon succeeding, a great sense of achievement would follow; we were back on track, feeling safe again and making progress on our journey. What was the worst part? I guess the worst part was the unknown. Not knowing what to expect. Also…the big waves at night! You see them growing at the back, reaching the height of the boat…. Another thing I struggled with at first was delegating responsibility. As much as I trusted the crew…it was hard to let go. The crew were all experienced sailors yes, but mono, not catamaran, sailors. All these thoughts would keep me awake at night…especially the first week or so. Do you think that crossing the atlantic has changed you? It has also been very useful in terms of understanding how to make the team work together. We heard stories of boats stopping in Cape Verde the only possible place where to stop along the way to drop unhappy members of the crew…or skippers constantly fighting with their crew. We managed to keep everyone happy on board…I guess the good food took a great part in that! Well, we had a long debate about that during the crossing. The crew was convinced that it would be better to have the main fully up most of the time. Personally, I was of the opinion that we needed to reef it. So we would normally have one reef on the main and the jib fully open. When spotting a squall approaching, we would reduce both sails, by putting 2 reefs on the main and one on the jib. With wind coming from degrees, we would have to be very careful not to jibe; Gladan has got a big main and with the big waves we could accidentally jibe. Did you break any sails during the crossing? The sea through window of the jib was torn apart. Luckily we had a second new jib that I had made in the UK before the crossing, so we were able to substitute the damaged one. I bought the second jib with the idea of sailing with two headsails, wing on wing, having them furling and unfurling on the same roller…. Overall, nothing too major though. What was a typical day like? During the crossing days actually last 24 hours! Our shifts were organised in pairs, so each pair would have 3 hours on and 6 hours off to sleep, relax but also carry out daily tasks such as cooking and boat maintenance. At midday we would all gather around the table in the kitchen for the daily weather forecast and general updates , and then decide on the best meals ideas for the day. Shortly after everyone would go on with their tasks. How eco-friendly was the crossing? We tried to have a zero impact crossing. We were almost completely self-sufficient thanks to the solar panels. Occasionally, we had to turn the generator on to make water and recharge the batteries, but overall we used just under 30 litres of diesel during the 3, miles crossing. We only used the engine for 8 hours when there was zero wind and Gladan was drifting! All the organic waste was thrown into the ocean and at the end of the trip we only had 3 large bin bags of plastic, glass and tin. Finally, what advice would you give to people wanting to cross the Atlantic? Just be prepared. Make sure you have spare parts onboard, run daily checks for chafing, make sure you have a fully equipped first aid kit with plenty of strong antibiotics…sadly, there was one fatality this year. A young father sailing with his family died after contracting an infection in Cape Verde. It is very important to think things through and be prepared. View this post on Instagram. My leg after our visit to Minca….! Home remedy of a boatman! Half relaxing half sleeping, fighting the seasickness caused by the confused seas! And off we went! Beatrice and I on shift :! Though it might look otherwise, we did keep an eye on the road, from time to time!! We made friends with the security guards of the marina — everyone was very polite and efficient there! There is nothing like a well deserved drink after a long passage! The view from the top of Mount Peggy, Bequia. On top of the world! Paradise Beach — Carriacou. Gladan is now part of the wall of fame! Paradise Beach Club was a great place to spend an afternoon with plenty of other sailors and fun activities organised weekly! The day after, the results came back negative, which should have meant that he was free to go… Gc phoned Dr. Pope to ask for confirmation. Ten days down quarantine lane, Gc was struggling to sleep and function normally due to the unbearable heat and the unforgiving mosquitos… By then, with the quarantine almost over, it was time to get another PCR test as that was the requirement to enter the island of Grenada, the next destination. Pope, and the unhappy memory of his lockdown behind. Gladan was wounded after a steel boat hit us in Guadaloupe…. My quarantine at the Hilton in Barbados…not so bad after all! Once reunited with Gladan and my better half, it was time to discover the island! Grenada is quite a big island, famous for its spices and chocolate. Great food and drinks! Walking around Carriacou We rented a car so that we could move around easily: the island is big and not well connected by minibuses. Office with a view…! Paradise Beach Club , Carriacou. Grenada is famous for its HASH. Every Saturday, locals organise hikes in a different part of the island and everyone can join in by paying a small participation fee. There is a path to be discovered and clues along the way. Pasta with lobster by chef GC! Alex, Karen and Hugo with their beautiful little one! Pelicans social distancing at Frigate Island — Union Pelicans…. Frigate Island is THE place to be for kitesurfing! Gonzalo on its way towards us…! When we almost faced hurricane Gonzalo! The last supper! Better enjoy till you can, right?! Gusts of 40 knots and a lot of rain. Leaving the Caribbeans to head back home was no easy task! The nurse told Gc off because his nostrils are too narrow for their rather enormous cotton buds! We would have to; sail directly to the quarantine area in Young Island — without stopping along the way; get tested upon arrival; wait for the results onboard — it could take up to 48 hours. In Covid times, rules can change literally any minute, so we decided to seize the moment and go! Sunset in St. Anne Back then our friends Salvo and Patti were still on board of Gladan with us, our Australian friends Steve and Deb would shortly join us to explore the island together and none of us had any idea of what would happen to the entire world a few weeks later…. Balata Botanical Gardens After four months, we are back in the same bay, St. Water lilies. Here is a list of my favourite places to visit and things to do in Martinique! Pay a visit to the Balata Botanical Gardens. They are close to Fort-de-France, and high up on the hills so getting there by car is not the easiest task! The horticulturist, landscape designer and poet who designed the gardens, mixed together a hundred varieties of palm trees, tropical flowers, giant bamboo, and delicate water lilies — a real blaze of colours and perfumes! Steve and I admiring the gardens! I was left speechless in front of such delicate beauty.. Tree top walk. So why do people cross the Atlantic? This time, I had my chance to ask Gc the same question…and much more! Patti and Gc testing the media equipment during the crossing Why did you want to cross the Atlantic? Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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