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As I'm strolling across the quad between the ski lift, the kit shops, and the icy tail-end of the valley run, I catch it. The earthy funk of marijuana. But then, Laax ski resort feels like nowhere else in the Swiss Alps, its culture in many ways redolent of the state of California. Looking at the local piste map, I make out a swirl of rocky spurs, bowls and valleys hemmed in by both glaciers and a snarl of sky-stabbing peaks that make up the geologically unique Weisse Arena Group. In Laax, riders are as ubiquitous as the glitzy skiers of Zermatt, Gstaad and St Moritz, drawn by the relaxed vibe and consistent conditions of this high-altitude region, dominated by the Vorab Glacier 9, feet above. Unusually for a European resort, most of the hotels, restaurants and facilities are owned by one company, the Weisse Arena Gruppa, helping to maintain this unorthodox vibe. The wardrobes of other guests add to the aesthetic. I meet Reto Poltera at The Indy, a dive bar at the bottom of the valley run festooned with vintage snowboarding gear and framed shots of US skater Mark Gonzales. Despite being a senior board member of the Weisse Arena Gruppa, Poltera looks like a big kid. His skater boy uniform — a snapback, oversized black hoodie, utility trousers and vans sneakers — is more los angeles than laax. Poltera and his team have a reputation. Case in point? The one used for the Beijing Winter Olympics. A good chunk of our meeting involves him reminiscing about his favoured surf spots. All you need is a little snow. Chatting with Poltera has made me keen to hit the slopes myself. For the first time this year, freeski slopestyle has been added to the Laax Open competition programme. Not that I see much of it — most of my afternoon is spent admiring the grooming at close quarters as I tumble down the slopes. Walking through its Austin Powers-worthy bar space — all macrame-hugged pot plants, fluoride-orange carpets and, at the centre, a wooden hut housing DJ decks manned by a life-size alien that gazes out over the ragged black and white mountain panorama beyond — I make my way to the rooftop terrace. From there, I can peer down at the vast Laax superpipe below, a foot high, foot long and foot wide tunnel of glimmering blue-white ice. From the terrace, i can peer down at the vast laax superpipe glittering below, a 23 ft high, ft long and 72 ft wide tunnel of blue-white ice. From this vantage point, the pro snowboarder swooping between the curves looks like a stickman. Then, he makes his way down the slope and the next athlete throws themselves to the mercy of gravity, iridescent goggles glinting in the bright January sun, skimming over the icy pipe, body braced and ready to fly. Each January, over snowboarders and freestyle skiers descend on Crap Sogn Gion to compete in the Open. Inside, trampolines, air bags and skate ramps provide a topography for the fearless to fling themselves around. The first skill to master? How to fall properly. As I clamber up to progressively higher and higher platforms, before jumping off onto an air bag below — facing forwards, sidewards and backwards — a group of young boys chuck themselves off even higher ledges with careless abandon nearby. Later, they strap themselves into imitations of snowboards and strapped-together skis, jumping on the trampolines to practise grips and turns. Across the tent, two rollerblading girls swing in graceful curves along the fat U of a skateboarding halfpipe. Last month, legendary skateboarder Tony Hawk visited to teach a course for children. Everyone from local teens to Olympians train here. The idea is to make freestyle part of the ski school curriculum, getting barely-toddling kids to tumble, flip and complete tricks. Poltera says he borrowed the motto from his beloved California surf scene. Smaller, more visible actions include all-electric vehicles, a free ski clothing repair centre, and an innovative, biodegradable board wax developed by the resort. Likewise, a new seasonal skate and BMX park, which opened this summer outside the Galaxy, has green pockets stuffed with pollinator-friendly plants. I have a feeling Poltera might agree. When talking about slopeside thrills, he refers not to jumps and rodeos, but waves — that transitional moment when you catch the air and feel the thrill. There are waves riding the slopes, when you land a jump, when you hit a rail just so, and in the joy of a skateboard session 7, feet up a mountain. Visit flimslaax. SWISS swiss. From there, Laax is accessible by train or airport shuttle service. Let there be Laax: a closer look at Europe's freestyle capital The freestyle culture at the Swiss resort of Laax traces its origins to the surf scene in California. Freestyle snowboarding, Laax. Philipp Ruggli. Published: Monday 30th October Sports and Adventure. Freestyle skiing, Laax. Freestyle skiing has been ascending in popularity in recent years. A snowboarder rides a rail in the park. Enjoyed this? Sports and Adventure Sky high: skiing in the mighty Dolomites. Promotion Hotel Nesslerhof. Sports and Adventure Highest European ski resorts that guarantee snow. Sports and Adventure The best ten ski resorts for beginners. Sports and Adventure Stronger in the Alps: falling back in love with skiing on Morzine's slopes. Promotion Radisson Blu Reussen, Andermatt: the alpine way. Inspiration The best cycling holidays in Europe. Inspiration 34 Best Adventure Holidays Adrenaline-filled escapes. Europe Snaefellsnes, Iceland: a road trip around Iceland's dramatic western region. Europe Thrace, Greece: why you need to visit.

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