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I chose Salzburg. Chronologically closing in on age 50 and after visiting nearly the same number of US ski areas over the past 35 years, I finally committed to my first ski trip to Europe in February The answer is an amazing cost-convenience-culture quotient and some great skiing. The cultural attractions in this world heritage site and home to , exceed those of many a great metropolis. I found the leap of faith worth taking and thoroughly enjoyed exploring an area largely untapped by American skiers and snowboarders. I undertook this Austrian adventure with an old friend and traveling companion, Dave Thomson, also a fellow Virginian from the mid-Atlantic region of the United States. Despite some touchy weather departing DC and heightened airport security, our flights went smoothly and without major delay. The Salzburg airport is an easy 5 miles from town. We arrived on Sunday afternoon in time to take a walking tour of the city, gaining local knowledge on the salt trade and the powerful 17th century Prince-Archbishops responsible for much of the current architectural grandeur of Salzburg. We strolled to the birthplace of Mozart, an attractive yellow townhouse at Getreidegassa 9, and then by his modern legacy, the venues for the world famous classical music festival that draws millions to Salzburg each summer. The imprint of Catholicism on Salzburg is unmistakable. Over a thousand years old, it is one of the largest preserved castles in Europe and contains many historical artifacts, making for a memorable and close off-day excursion for ski weekers. Wrapped in a blanket of snow, winter Sundays in Salzburg are very quiet and most definitely off-season. I felt like we had the whole city to ourselves. I also felt very safe. Since September 11, the percentage has declined further. Our first Sunday would prove to be our coldest day. My universe became a melting, menthol haze. On Monday we visited Flachau, the home mountain of Olympic champion skier Hermann Maier and at just under 45 minutes, our shortest drive on the roster of Snow Shuttle destinations during the week. By the time we had taken in a few sites and learned the rules of the Snow Shuttle game from our onboard tour guide Bryan Crawford, we were pulling into the parking lot next to a 20ft statue of the Herminator. In the Alps, where the line between one ski area and the next is blurred, the standard mountain metrics used by Americans become unwieldy. The view from the Flachau parking lot belied this enormous potential. Far beyond the first ridge and known to us only by what we had seen on trail maps was a skiable domain that would dwarf all but a handful of North American resorts. When we met Florian Schwartzenbacher, our guide, instructor and friend for the day from the Sport Am Jet Ski and Snowboard School, I asked him in the spirit of American conspicuous consumption if we could ski to the village of Alpendorf and back, about 10 lateral miles each way. He agreed, but as the day unfolded we would see that it was an overly ambitious goal for two slow moving, picture taking mid-Atlantic skiers. As with all the areas we would visit, Flachau supplemented its lift infrastructure with surface lifts such as t-bars and platter pulls, which add capacity at chokepoints, provide foul weather options, or serve as short connectors between major gondolas and express chairs. Early in my day at Flachau I shared a t-bar with an older, 60ish gentlemen from Holland. Like most of the Europeans I would meet during the week, he was very amiable and spoke more than adequate conversational English. I asked him why he chose to ski at Flachau? He had two main reasons, affordability and medical. From his experience, Flachau was one of the most attractive areas fitting that prescription. I found a nice comfort factor all week as well. The lower half of the mountains looked much like North American ski slopes with forests of evergreens or hardwoods lining wide groomed runs. Every area also had upper terrain, some of it big, some of it huge, with wide open treeless bowls, often defined only by occasional rock outcroppings or big mogul fields. It was fun to move between the earth and the moon in a single ski day. By the first afternoon I had already overused the superlative Wunderbar. Our on-snow journey from Flachau to Alpendorf would include a five minute bus connection to the neighboring resort of Wagrain Vah-grine. The actual ski terrain in this area reminded me of the Wasatch Mountains in Utah, but the near and far mountain backdrops were more akin to the spectacular jaggedness of the Grand Tetons. The lift infrastructure was very modern where ever we turned, not only in Flachau, but throughout SalzburgerLand. Almost all of the high speed quads and six packs had bubble tops, a sort of giant sun visor pulled down in the manner of a footrest for use on cold days. My companion Dave and I went to pull the bubble top down on a six-pack at Flachau just to see how it worked. You would have thought we were caught in the act of stealing a pair of skis from the ruckus raised by our fellow passengers. We quickly learned it was very bad form in Austria to interfere with the Sun on nice days. Given the blue bird weather we had all week, no further tests were conducted on bubble tops. Several hours into our skiing and just before the last big descent to Alpendorf, Florian suggested that we turn back to make sure we could make the 4pm Snow Shuttle departure to Salzburg. I had a big plate of Rosti-Tiroler, a sort of alpine roast beef hash with a fried egg on top; very hearty stuff and guaranteed to keep your caloric intake up to sporting levels. After lunch things went from inspiring to perspiring. We came across a few unexpected lift lines they were generally moderate all week on the long way back to Flachau. Florian encouraged us to pick up the pace. Suddenly, our picture taking and lollygagging turned into a series of fast paced runs with big vertical descents. When he learned where I was from he began to tease me in excellent English about why so few Americans spoke foreign languages, not even snippets of foreign languages. Our last big plunge of the day, approximately vertical feet paralleling the Achter Jet gondola, was a serious piece of bobbing and weaving through homeward bound crowds on very hard packed snow. Only when they all tried to depart at once did I realize how many people were sharing the expansive ski terrain with us. We managed to make it back to our bus a harmless five minutes overdue, but we learned a valuable lesson for the rest of the week. In these mountains we were going to need to practice some better time management skills because the distances, verticals and scope of terrain were far, far greater than the yo-yo type skiing customary to the mid-Atlantic US. Dorf means little, hof means before, and bad means spa, after the famed local thermal waters. Our destination, Bad Hofgastein, is lift linked to Bad Gastein, comprising the largest single ski domain in the valley. The others are separate and significant areas accessed locally by car, bus or train. For a couple of neophytes on a huge, unfamiliar mountain nothing can top the benefit of a master ski instructor to lead the way around his home turf. Kurt sized up the holiday crowds at the funicular and decided to drive us to the nearby Angertal ski center in the valley between the slopes of Bad Hofgastein and Bad Gastein. In Europe, we learned, one region or another is on a rolling school holiday schedule from early February to mid March and though we never saw killer crowds in SalzburgerLand, there were a few momentary backups at prime times on key lifts. Kurt recommended we skip this run and stay high to avoid crowds and enjoy the guten schnee. Though I was severely tempted by the awesome size of the descent, today I decided to let the guide dictate our agenda, not a neophyte from the mid-Atlantic. Eventually we left the magnificent Schlossalm area and ate a lunch of liver dumpling soup back at Angertal. When Kurt found out we had been in Austria for two full days without yet trying apple strudel, he moved quickly to rectify the problem. My friend Dave tried to show some dietary restraint, but when I told him it came mit schlag with whipped cream his will broke and he indulged with me. Soon, a little heavier in the saddle, we were riding a pair of high speed quads to Jungeralm, another huge open area, this time on the backside of the Stubnerkogel, the snow topped volcano-like mountain rising above Bad Gastein. I mentioned to Kurt that it looked like Stubnerkogel mit schlag. At other places lower down, off piste could mean Sierra cement or thin cover. The walk atop Stubnerkogel was the only time during my week skiing in SalzburgerLand that I felt shortness of breath or noticeable effects from high elevation. I think this is significant coming from someone who has experienced mild altitude sickness while on vacation at several western US ski resorts. The incredible skiing we accessed during our week using the Salzburg Snow Shuttle requires virtually no altitude adjustment for those from sea level localities. On Wednesday morning we took the 75 minute drive to Zell am See passing briefly through Germany in transit. This was one of the few areas on our itinerary that I had heard of before last year. After the quick lift rides we began our first real run down the mountain on a mellow looking intermediate trail called The Schutt. From lake level we rode the three part Areitbahn gondola system right back up to Panorama Pfiff again. It was certainly living up to its reputation for gorgeous, sun drenched, south facing ski terrain. Apparently, this temperature phenomenon was common here and had something to do with a lake-induced inversion according to Christian. After a couple of runs near the top of the mountain it was time for lunch. Amidst the barrage of info provided on the Salzburg Snow Shuttle that morning, Bryan Crawford gave us a tip to try the Pinzgauer Hutte for a good lunch and a novel transfer back to the slopes. We had to ski and pole for about a half mile down a gradual trail away from all ski slopes to get there, but it was worth it. The crystal clear view from the Pinzgauer Hutte was worth the trip to Europe alone. I told Christian that America could never be the same after September 11, He agreed it was a terrible thing and mentioned another horrible day in November when the funicular train bringing skiers to the Kitzsteinhorn glacier inexplicably broke down in a tunnel during the ascent and caught fire. The death toll was , the worst accident in alpine ski history. It has since been completely replaced by a state-of-the-art gondola system. After exchanging near miss stories, he on the funicular train, me at the Pentagon, it was clear that many parallels could be found in the trauma inflicted by the separate disasters a world apart. People of either region will never forget the day, the time, and the place. After our meal with the million dollar view it was time for the transfer back to the ski slopes. The proprietor used a snowmobile to tow 10 of us at a time, water-ski style at speeds approaching 30 mph, back up the half mile distance to the main ski area. From there we had time for a little play near the summit and then took another beautiful, groomed black piste 13 to a run-out leading back to Zell am See and our awaiting motor coach to Salzburg. Related Links Salzburg city tourist office: www. Join the conversation by logging in. Don't have an account? Create one here. Firsthand Report: Salzburg Part 1 2. Johnfmh March 10, Jim: When I was there a week before you, temperatures at Lech stayed well below freezing for the most part. We even had a day when it never got above 20 degrees. At night, it would often dip into the teens. I guess my point is that layers are the best deal in the Alps. I find that the best outerwear for the Alps is an unlined Gore-Tex shell and a removable, weight Polartec inner layer. A weight inner layer stows away easily in a backpack, but provides more than enough warmth for even the coldest days in Europe. The best ski backpacks are avalanche backpacks. My Ortovox has a lot of extra padding on the backside, making it very comfortable on lifts. The shovel compartment is very easy to access, and great for storing snacks, water, face masks, etc. Question: how car friendly were the resorts you visited? Some American skiers I have talked with swear by the automobile. They claim that it gives you a lot of flexibility. With a car, for example, one could stay in St. Anton and easily ski not only the Arlberg region, but other major ski areas such as the Oztal Arena, Ischgl-Silvretta, Davos, and Innsbruck. During the week, traffic in the Alps is usually ok, but weekend traffic is unbearable. I once drove from St. Anton to Vienna on a Saturday and I will never do that again. Saturday is the day people start and end their vacations. Hence, traffic can be crazy. Can you comment on the merits of renting a car vs. JimK March 28, John, the resorts I visited seemed fairly car friendly with heavily utilized parking lots near lifts, not unlike many US resorts. The Snow Shuttle parked footsteps from lift stations so we were impervious to parking issues and costs faced by car drivers. Roads we used to resorts from Salzburg followed valley floors avoiding difficult passes and stuck mostly to the high speed autobahn for three resorts. Volume was not bad with no major delays during the week. They'd be relatively easy for a visiting driver to navigate, but for my ambitious itinerary, new resort each day in unfamiliar territory, the door to lift service of the Snow Shuttle couldn't be beat. Speak truth to powder.

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