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Buttoning up his shirt, he walks up the stairs to find me sitting with a beer in hand. Just 20 minutes ago he had greeted me with a confused look, shirtless with a weed whacker idling in hands. Walking down the trodden-grass path, I had absolutely no idea what to expect. In both cases it was the latter, and I was perfectly happy. Sitting, guzzling my Lion Lager while it was still cold, he lit up a half-smoked cigarette. From the moment he lit up, I suspected it was something… else. When he offered the amber stub to me, I instantly knew. The balcony is chest height for Shantha, hardly five and a half feet tall. Barefoot, weathered and muscular, only a small paunch shows off the luxury of an occasional bottle of grog. This side of the road is lush to the point of swampy, with bushels of tropical flowers and reeds protruding from the grass. There are a couple of other hotels around here too, but there seems to be no one around. Getting lost when coming in, the roads turned to bumpy grayscale patchwork before disappearing into undulating sand and clay. Livestock took over the road, and the speed of my tuktuk dropped from 40km per hour to a pace closer to their plod. In the silence following my arrival, I assume I insulted him with my abstention from the green. He breaks it. I settle into the hammock next to the dinner tables and put on some music. I hear his tuktuk rev, and his wife comes to chat with me. I love it, I say, and she smiles quickly before returning to the kitchen. Rain starts beating the roof, and the frogs voice their pressure. He guzzles like I did, adjusting for the short lifespan of cold beer in these climes. A bottle of arrack on the table, ready with a glass bottle of cola and Sri Lankan ginger beer. He takes his glass, fills it generously with arrack, tops with a meager amount of cola, and throws it back. While arrack, a rum-like distilled coconut spirit, is a floral and sweet drink it comes with a decent burn. I do the same, and I guess I have to agree. His mullet and silver necklace may point back to his days as a surfer, but his hard hands speak to a harder life. He, his family, and guests were almost killed in the disaster. It was the same that killed hundreds of thousands in South-East Asia. They were lucky, he says. He implies the destruction of his then super-successful cafe was, in so many words, soul-destroying. He built a new cabin last year, which is his pride and joy. He has more land, further from the beach, and is hoping to build more. He seems to creak open with each swig of arrack, showing me pictures of what it looked like after the wave, eviscerated. Another large skull of arrack, and I offer to change the music from my rock-country-blues mix to something more his speed. I give him some samples of Kiwi reggae and dub, and he seems to like it. With hesitation I agree. With the mention of my next destination — Arugam Bay, a surfing hotspot — he tells me he wants to join me. Just one night, he says, a holiday. His first in years. I take a drag and my extremities become sensitive to the occasional gusts of wind. He stands up and leans on the balcony. He looks over at me, raises the spliff in his hand in salute. The next day, shirtless, silver necklace hanging around his neck, he finds me packing my bags. He gives me coffee, I thank him for the stay. I wonder, as I chug my way out of the hotel on my rented tuktuk, how long it might be until I return. Will it be three, five, or 10, years from now? Make next year the year you become a professional travel writer - Join us and special guest Tim Leffel for the upcoming Travel Writing Workshop. Thomas Heaton is a New Zealand journalist, food writer and traveller. Before dropping everything to travel, Heaton worked for several publications in New Zealand in both news and lifestyle. He lives for people's stories, is naturally nosy, inquisitive and always hungry. Copyright - All Right Reserved. Thomas Heaton and Tuktuk. Ranna Sri Lanka Tangalle. Share Facebook Twitter Pinterest Email. Frost and Familiarity — Impressions of Zagreb. Schloss Neuschwanstein Survival. You may also like. Pilgrims and Prayer Wheels in Xiahe August 15, The Night Train to Nukus June 26, A Night Walk in Kathmandu June 19, Finding Home in a Bottle of Chacha May 8, Returning to Hong Kong February 7, Myanmar Alchemy January 3, September 1, The Silicon Steppe August 27, Contact Info. Follow Us. Facebook Twitter Instagram Linkedin. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.

Tickets Moscow - Nukus

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