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Buy ganja Vernier

I can't help thinking that a vernier caliper would be a handy addition to my toolbox. Like a lot of tools though the price range varies hugely from ebay specials for under a fiver to rather more seriously priced kit. I don't need them to be digital most of the really cheap ones seem to be digital just accurate enough to differentiate the. What sort of money should I be looking at spending cheaper is best to get something accurate enough for bike use? Any recommended names? You have to keep resetting it whenever you turn it on though, not ideal. Only used by purists! I bought one of the aldi ones a while back and it seem fine. I just use if the for the same purpose as the OP — checking seatpost sizes etc. I've just ordered one of these from Maplins. I can't imagine it's great but should do the job and nice and cheap too. I used verniers big and small every day of my working life as an engineer, digital ones make life so much easier. I've got a cheep one from halfords, does the job and gives the same readings as the ISO certified one at work. As for the verier scale Vs Dial Vs Digital debate, dials go out of calibration, digital ones are probably easier to read, but if your only using it once a blue moon it'll always be flat, if you can read a verier scale then just get a propper old skool one for a fiver. I got mine for a fiver from Fleabay. Digital, but it even came with batteries. I use it for work in front of customers so easy to read is a must. While obviously it doesn't have the vernier scale along it, functionally it achieves the same thing with a lot less fuss for the user…. So 'vernier' calipers are now out of date and may be difficult for some to read — nichetastic! Anybody without a digital watch is living in the past — don't tell me you use those awful clock face types with two hands to read of before you know the time! Nope that's a Dial caliper again similar function, marginally more user friendly than a vernier caliper…. If you haven't already bought one, Ebay is definately your friend here. I've got a dial caliper, not as accurate as a proper vernier, 0. Dead useful, use mine loads more than once every few months. I have an Aldi one. Invaluable for measuring all manner of stuff and well built. Gott a strip of batteries of Ebay. I can even supply it with a UKAS certificate if required — email in profile. This topic has 33 replies, 24 voices, and was last updated 14 years ago by LeeW. Viewing 34 posts - 1 through 34 of 34 total. PJay Free Member. I keep meaning to pick one up. Latest Singletrack Videos. Get a digital one whatever! So much more user friendly. Normal ones dont need resetting, zeroing off or run out of batteries!! A caliper can't be a vernier caliper if it has a digital readout. Why do people try to make life hard for themselves? ScottChegg Free Member. I got a digital one from aldi or lidl, can't remember which — seems fine. IanMunro Free Member. A clock face is probably an ergonomic improvement over a digital display. Haze Full Member. The slide is a bit ropey, does the job though. Dial caliper. Cromwell tools sell Moore and Wright verniers, quality brand and decent price. CHB Full Member. Kahurangi Full Member. My Aldi one didn't work properly. LeeW Full Member. Thisisnotaspoon, why don't digital and Vernier calipers go out of calibration? Sorry bud, eyes aint what they used to be, that why I'm selling a Vernier caliper….

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Buy ganja Vernier

I needed a temperature controller module recently, so off I went to Banggood to order one. As one does I found myself browsing, one thing led to another, and I bought a micrometer screw gauge. But perhaps more importantly, this is also the cue for an examination of high precision dimensional measurement. Some of you will be metrology enthusiasts with an array of the finest devices available, but I am guessing that many of you will not. The ubiquitous precision measurement device in our community appears to be the digital caliper, a sliding clamp with an LCD display, an instrument that can be had in its most basic form for a very small outlay indeed. A Vernier caliper is a graduated sliding clamp usually over mm long, with a Vernier scale that allows the reading of fractions of its graduation. It will typically have two sets of jaws for both internal and external measurements, and an extending probe for depth measurements. On the body of the clamp are the millimetres or inches, and on the sliding jaw is a scale graduated in a constant fraction of the main scale. A micrometer is a G clamp with jaws in its most common form around 25 mm in size, and with a very accurately calibrated screw thread. It has a handle with both a scale in millimetres or inches along its length and a fractional scale on the handle that turns the thread. Using it is a case of closing it on the item to be measured, reading the millimetres from the length scale, and the fractions of a millimetre from the handle scale. All precision metrology instruments should be taken care of to preserve their calibration, and the micrometer has a ratchet on its end to ensure a constant torque when it is tightened. It should always be tightened using this ratchet, to protect the thread from wear and distortion. The former two are my quick measurement tools of choice, when you see a product dimension in one of my Hackaday pieces it will have been measured on one of them. The digital one claims a 0. By contrast it is immediately apparent on picking up the Mitutoyo caliper that it is a much higher quality instrument, being machined from stainless steel it has a much more substantial weight. The overwhelming impression is one of solidity, the jaws meet perfectly and have no discernible play, and the sliding action is smooth but with a constant slight resistance. It has a precision of 0. Having examined the calipers, how do they perform? Straight away the lower resolution of the cheap digital caliper becomes obvious, as it resolves the copper layers on a PCB to be a whopping 0. Likewise the plastic Vernier caliper gives a significantly different reading from the Mitutoyo, probably also due to its inconsistent meeting of its jaws. All is not well in its machining however, as I can see a sliver of light indicating imperfect flatness between its jaws when they are closed, and there is discernible play in its thread. It has a 0. There is no discernible play in either instrument, and their action is smooth with a slightly greater resistance than the cheaper one. The faces of their jaws have been lapped to a mirror finish, and there is no discernible gap between the jaws when they are closed. The play in the thread and not entirely flat jaws make consistent readings difficult, as the reading depends on the alignment of jaws and thread at the distance in question. My plastic calipers are fine for the quick millimetric measurements I use them for but maybe not for higher precision work. I have eschewed the digital caliper for a dial gauge caliper. No batteries, no vernier It always works. About I had metal shop in high school half the year metal, half the year woodworking and suddenly I can hear the shop teacher talking about calipers in his Scottish accent. And yes, they were simply to transfer measurements. That depends on your definition of measure. Same here. OK, soapbox alert on. Engineering, hacking even life is all about compromise. Nothing wrong with that. People who use vernier calipers and micrometer screw gauges are making compromises just like everyone else. These instruments cannot measure anything large, or even medium sized for most values of medium. They are also not the cheapest or the easiest to use. The crazy thing is that the article even discusses trade-offs between cost and precision. Also, were these instruments calibrated recently or at all? Are you controlling temperature of the instrument or temperature of the piece. Do you care? Compromises everywhere. Soapbox alert off. Having said all that I do share your love of micrometer screw gauges. Thank you for the article. I would disagree with you on the size question. All the ones featured above are the small versions. And yes. These are bench tools, not lab tools. In other words, about as good as you can get to do the job in hand. After chatting to his build team and the camera for 5 or so minutes, with the hefty locking pin that held the wing on in his hand, he was unable to fit the pin in place until it had cooled down to Room temperature and shrunk to size. Precision engineering. A few things you should never cost optimize on: 1. Your fluke multi-meter 2. Starrett vernier calipers mitutoyo is also good if you can avoid the counterfeiters 3, A gauge block set you will use a few times a year 4. Micrometer with carbide jaws mitutoyo is very good, again if you can avoid the counterfeiters 6. Somehow it feels like a sin to waste time chasing a cheap unreliable process. A year or two ago I would have gone with Mitutoyo all day long but having had need for some technical help and parts I have absolutely stopped buying them. All I got was absolutely no response whatsoever, I tried several times and eventually just drew a line under them. Several years ago, I needed replacement anvils only needed one, maybe the second, but did all three for a small internal micrometer mm. They are carbide, but they do wear out. Mitu tech support was not responsive, so I went to an internal contact who was able to deal with support for me. Wrong part. Nothing in the Mitu documentation or literature made any mention of the thread spec, nor that it has been changed sometime around years The Mitu people were unaware, as well. Apparently, nothing referenced the part to the tool it goes to. It was is? This really does depend on what you do. In 45 years of home-shop-machining I have never needed gauge blocks or a surface plate. I have occasionally used the mill table as a low-grade surface plate, but never missed the gauge blocks. Ditto the thread wires. I have had to make a thread to a standard no more than a couple of times, and on those occasions I have used whatever suitable wire I could find to make the measurement. Your list of necessities is only really relevant to people in the game of making interchangeable parts to drawings. For the typical home-shop hack-a-day-er your list would simply be a waste of money. I understand that you probably take pleasure in owning high quality metrology equipment, I do too. But to claim that everybody needs it is a stretch. Everyone initially sets their own standards for workmanship… for awhile a least…. If you ever have to restore early steam engines or equipment, one will find almost every bolt was custom fit from some factories… really easy to bust those century-old castings if anyone assumes they had repeatability even under the same roof. I personally think it is not good practice to encourage that kind of short-term thinking for people learning how to build things. We should contact Starrett, and ask them to post a prize-pack for a few students who demonstrate serious skill. I would need a lot of dies, for reasons you hinted at. Mainly I work on vehicles from the teens and 20s, so lots of brass thread, BA, Whitworth, cycle threads and one-off threads not conforming to any standard. For the Vernier calipers did this include zero adjustment as well? That being said, if the plastic Vernier claims 0. Even the smallest positive zero adjustment 0. Then I have one of those cheapy plastic ones. Hence the steel one got put away somewhere, and the plastic one does all the donkey work. Neither Vernier has a zero adjustment. Pretty much what I tell students: The beauty of the vernier is that there is nothing to go invisibly wrong. Digital have come along way at the inexpensive end re accuracy and reliability , but there is still a trade off: ease of use versus number of hidden things to go wrong accidentally or by device fault. So yeah, using them is always a two handed affair. Left handed calipers are not particularly more expensive than calipers for normal folk. I have a left handed one for lathe use. Not exactly Mitutoyo, but reasonable cost and totally serviceable for day-to-day use. I have a left-hand unit for one particular machining operation I do all the time, where a right-hand caliper leaves the display on the wrong side. I am also of the sinister persuasion, though am quite comfortable with right-handed tools as they are essentially the rule. Even for those not blessed, though, there are measurements that require the use of the left hand for access at times. The ONLY common semi-precision or precision manual measuring tool that can be substantially converted is the standard screw micrometer. How, you say? Speaking to the nearly universal today design with the thimble set on a taper, and the scale sleeve rotatable for fine adjustment of the zero, turn the sleeve degrees, remove the thimble and reset it the same. The screw is still not as comfortable as one mignt like, being right handed, but you can read it while holding in your left hand. My preferred flavour for this has a lock ring rather than a lever, since it is accessible from both sides. Actually, my preferred flavour for micrometers in general has the lock ring. The lever types, even from top brands, tend to be fragile, wear out of alignment, and, if used for the same measure a lot, may mar the spindle where they are repeatedly set this is a LOT of similar measurements, but I have done it. For calipers, digital with remote display is about it, as well. Im left handed as well, but society has forced me to identify as right so many times. Can we be next? You are winning when you need to use it as little as possible. If you specify a contact of a precise alloy of phosphor bronze with an exact 0. However, I would have preferred to see those repeated measurements to see how easy it was to achieve repeatability with the various tool. I once had the dubious pleasure of using a travelling microscope with a vernier calibrated in 50ths of a mm. So you had to read the full mm, then double the vernier reading…. I recently bought some 3-point bore micrometers from that eBay and wish I had done so decades ago. They are such more more convincing than the little telescope gauges. They settle in to place solidly and give a consistent number, rather than the excessively democratic votes you get from multiple telescoping bore gauge measurements. The only problem is that you need an awful lot of them as they each have rather a small range. Am engineer or qa person took pride in these tools and used them at home. Professional machinist. Mitutoyo is thf only company I will buy a digital caliper from- theirs are far superior to all others linear encoders in body. Worth the cost! Biggest warning- unless you know what to look for- avoid buying older used micrometers. They only need to be dropped once the wrong way in their history to be useless and thrown out of square. Lastly- if you need accurate, truly accurate measurement- invest in a gauge pin or single gauge block to zero your device measurements against. I completely agree on the Mitutoyo ones, aside from the battery lasting a lot longer than the cheapo ones, the more expensive ones also tend to use inductive rather than a capacitive encoder which means dirt is less likely to throw off the measurement. Shop guys almost always swear by dial calipers. They measure accurately even over light oil and dirt. Dial calipers will foul up very very easily- difficult to keep clean around the EDMs I work with, tons of fine metal sludge, gotta be really careful. I have had one set for many years. The battery died, and sadly, the replacement that came with it was also just about dead too. I had to go out into the virus laden world to fetch a replacement. I think I have 3 of 4 sets of them now, in most of my shops. I have at least one pair of plastic calipers too. They are surprisingly accurate but only read in mm, and are harder to read with the crosshatch. I have to put my magnifying headgear on to use them. There is a lot to be said about just being able to push a button. It is also handy on occasion to be able to zero them out when they are not mechanically at zero. Something that is hard to do with their non digital counterparts. I think the big deal is having something that works for you. Something that is accurate enough for your ends and something you can get good readings from without jumping through too many hoops. One problem with micrometers is range. It takes a whole bunch of micrometers, each with their very small range, to match the flexibility you get with a single tool with calipers. With how expensive a good set of micrometers is, this can be a significant barrier to entry unless you know you need the precision and accuracy. But they each have their place. I have both digital calipers and analog micrometers next to my lathe and mill — get a first order approximation of the dimension with much faster calipers, and then come back with the correct mic when you get close. I also have another set of digital calipers by my 3D printers, where caliper-grade accuracy is generally about as accurate as I can hit with my 3D printers anyway. I also have a HF digital caliper. To be safe, I have to do every measurement twice and then a sanity check. What does it do, freak out or something? I can turn it off anywhere and turn it back on and get exactly the same number, move it as fast as I want and not lose counts. They just shut down the LCD and reduce the update interval. I always understood that using the ratchet on a dial gauge was to ensure a consistent measuring force and not to minimize wear, although I am sure it does that also. Their design means they seem to flex a bit and I have found that even small differences in measurement force makes quite a difference to the readings. Guys who use mics and calipers for a living- I rarely see anyone actually using the ratchet on them. We watch how each other use our tools over the years. The skilled people develop a feel for their micrometers, and it is much lighter than the ratcheting thimble. We calibrate our micrometers and calipers against hemispherical standard rods before use, note if they are measuring off, and then if very off- we adjust the micrometer drums for wear in the thread. Most good ones come with a wrench for this to adjust it after it wears. Poor ones do not, but even SPI comes with a wrench nowadays. To be clear- I have been gifted SPI stuff- but never intentionally bought it. I have a 9 inch Etalon that I bought in the 70s. It cost me a fortune and it is still the go to if I need an accurate measurement. If I hold it up to the light and close it then I can get rainbow colours down to deep purple before the light is blocked completely. I wish I could just hand a brand new Etalon caliper to one of these Harbor Freight caliper people- I would love to just see the look on their face after about five seconds of use. There is an enormous difference in the quality of real measuring tools but I understand shopping at Harbor Freight. If you are looking for diamond in the rough, at least do not search it in quartz strata, because there is none. Normal price is at least 10x that. If I could have afforded it at the time I would have snatched it up just to have something that exotic. Mikrokators are pretty cool- the only measuring gauge with zero physical backlash, and they measure millionths of an inch. Maybe a few hours lapping the jaws and tuning up the cheapo micrometer might be worth it, might not be. Long retired from all that now but thanks for bringing back some memories to me More or less just a bit of nostalgia for me, the beige and gray plastic calipers you have is the same my father had. These and micrometers are absolutely essential. I grew up in a precision grinding shop, where we did job work putting finish dimensions on a wide variety of customer parts. We used a lot of Starrett indicating micrometers for most run of the mill jobs. These are like the ordinary micrometers pictured above, but with a spring-loaded anvil and a dial-indicating needle built in. For repeatable processes like centerless through grinding, we could hold. The owner would break out his box of NIST-traceable gauge blocks for those special jobs; no doubt they commanded a special price, too. They were very scabby from their hardening baths, badly warped, and about a quarter inch over their finish size. After a few passes, the parts were so hot they were smoking in the coolant. A measuring device has: — Resolution — the smallest change that can be measured — Accuracy — how close is the reported measurement to the true value — Precision — how repeatable are the measurements. For a digital caliper, the smallest increment in the measurement is the resolution. Common digital calipers have a resolution of 0. Now try to measure the thickness of a gauge block gage block — a metal or ceramic block, precision machined to a particular thickness. Vernier caliper 1 — 4. But the measurement actually is quite far accuracy is Vernier caliper 2 — 4. Vernier caliper 3 — 4. Bottom line — resolution, accuracy and precision are all different concepts. Now if the friend's working zone is several factors of ten… 'Several' is defined as 'more than two but not many', so let's say 3. So, the friend's working zone is in 0. That sounds quite unlikely to me. Final note: if you take a caliper and a micrometer with the same resolutions, and similar specs on accuracy and repeatability, the micrometer will likely give you more accurate readings. A micrometer contacts the measured object with it's round anvils, while vernier contacts the object along thin lines of it's jaws. Because of this, the possibility of misalignment holding the measuring device at an angle to the measured object is much higher with the vernier if you hold it an angle, it will show a value that is larger than the true one. Both devices rely on operator's 'feel' — the jaws must touch the object, but not too tight. Micrometers have a ratchet stops that produce constant measuring force regardless of the operator. Calipers are not equipped with such devices. What the calipers lack in accuracy or repeatability department, they make up for in the convenience department. They can cover a much larger range , , mm being commonly available and affordable , and allow external, internal, depth and step measurements. With a micrometer, you need a separate one for each kind of measurement, and their ranges are normally just 25 mm or 1'. So, just for external measurements, you're looking at a set of 6 micrometers to cover the same range as a caliper. I think it's still very useful to own a mm and maybe a mm external micrometer. Used ones in good condition can be found quite cheaply. Buy a cheap set of Chinese-made gauge blocks and you can calibrate them yourself. Please be kind and respectful to help make the comments section excellent. Comment Policy. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies. Learn more. The Vernier scale is on the lower part of the sliding jaw. The micrometer scale on the shaft of the gauge. Vernier Caliper Shootout The selection of calipers under test. I have a gang of micrometers if and when I need greater precision, but I rarely do. Report comment. Worth buying is not only a matter of how well it works when you get it. Everyone initially sets their own standards for workmanship… for awhile a least… If you ever have to restore early steam engines or equipment, one will find almost every bolt was custom fit from some factories… really easy to bust those century-old castings if anyone assumes they had repeatability even under the same roof. I live in a NASA town. I think our engineers are buried with theirs. For the record- gold colored Titanium nitride TiN mitutoyo dial calipers are excellent. By they measure accurately over light oil and dirt- I meant the AOS digital mitutoyos. Or, you can think of the Vernier caliper doing Swedish rounding. Etalon anything is about as good as it generally gets. Old Etalon even better. Leave a Reply Cancel reply. Search Search for:. Hackaday Links: October 20, 33 Comments. Hackaday Hacked! Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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