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I spent a full month travelling across this country, and now? In this post-pandemic world, the cost of travel has been skyrocketing, but Mozambique has managed to remain relatively inexpensive. As always, I recommend heading to Skyscanner to compare flight deals and find the cheapest option. This will show you the cheapest dates to fly and ensure you have the very best deal possible. Despite this being the middle of the rainy season, I visited in January and only had a single day of wet weather. It meant I was able to take advantage of the lower prices while also lounging on the beaches in the sun. I lucked out, of course, so visiting at this time of year does involve taking a risk on the weather. Allow me to introduce you to one of my favourite websites in the world: Secret Flying! And for all of the above: you may find it cheaper to first look for flights to Johannesburg and then make your way to Mozambique from South Africa. Despite that, costs are lower than most Western countries, so accommodation in the country still offers up good value for money. Workaway is another option, where you can help provide work farming, language-learning, charity work in exchange for food and accommodation from a host. Its an excellent way to spend more time in Mozambique, get to know the country away from the tourist centres, and save on your travel budget. And then we have hostels. My single room was basic but clean the double rooms looked much bigger and nicer! Breakfast is tasty if you decide to eat onsite, but I decided to try the nearby restaurants instead: there were several of them within a short walk. If you want a bit of luxury travel in Mozambique, stay at Baia Sonambula. I spent five nights and considered cancelling the rest of my trip in order to spend even longer there. Despite the relative discomforts especially after my stay at Baia Sonambula , I really liked it and would stay here again. Maybe throw a child on your lap, a broken seat below your legs, and some pungent food in there, too. Now, get the driver to rip you off on the price. Before arriving in the country, I planned to travel overland from place to place to save money, but it only took two days for me hand in my backpacker card and swear off using them. So, yeah. I definitely splurged on transportation on this trip. Cities and towns in Mozambique are small, so you can walk basically everywhere you need to. I explored Maputo and Tofo on foot, and took tuk-tuks in Vilanculos in the evenings for safety reasons the guesthouse staff told me it was unsafe to walk around at night. Portions were huge! It was super-common for breakfasts to be included in the price of your room, and they were all pretty standard breakfast fare of toast, butter, scrambled eggs, some fruit, and coffee. Speaking of bread, one of the many ways that Portuguese colonisation has influenced the local cuisine will be obvious the first time you pass a bakery. Drinking-wise, I used my Grayl water purifier bottle that kills I highly recommend grabbing one of these for your trip. When I wanted to drink something other than water, I usually went for either a soft drink or a beer. I typically paid about 50c for a bottle of Coke in a local restaurant, and around a euro for a large glass of Laurentina or 2M beer. When looking at tours outside of my accommodation, group tours were rare, and private ones charged at least twice as much if you were alone. So what type of activities can you expect to experience in Mozambique, and most importantly, how much do they cost? The main star of the show here is hanging out with whale sharks. Tofo is one of the best places on the planet to swim with megafauna: whale sharks, manta rays, humpback whales, dolphins — and rarely, even hammerhead sharks. It was amazing!! In Vilanculos, I opted for an island excursion that was arranged through Baobab Backpackers. This was my favourite experience in Mozambique and well worth the money I spent! Hotel staff warned me of the dangers of doing this potentially to convince me to take their tours, mind you! You can also get an e-visa in advance , but it costs over twice as much for the same thing. A local SIM card: Now. What that means is that you can buy your SIM card online before you arrive in Mozambique, and then as soon as you land in the country, you can switch on your data and start using it. Anti-malarial tablets: Mozambique was the first country where I took anti-malarials! These costs can quickly land you with a six-figure bill to pay at the end of it. Travel insurance will cover you if your flight is cancelled and you need to book a new one, if your luggage gets lost and you need to replace your belongings, if you suddenly get struck down by appendicitis and have to be hospitalised, or discover a family member has died and you need to get home immediately. If you fall seriously ill, your insurance will cover the costs to fly you home to receive medical treatment. I use SafetyWing as my travel insurance provider, and recommend them for trips to Mozambique. Lauren Juliff is a published author and travel expert who founded Never Ending Footsteps in She has spent over 12 years travelling the world, sharing in-depth advice from more than countries across six continents. Her travel memoir can be found in bookstores across the planet. Great article! I do find for 11 kinda pricy, but when you look how beautiful the scenery is, it feels like it is worth it. I included more budget options for any readers who are stricter budget travellers than I am! I definitely splurged and treated myself on this trip Sounds like you had a fantastic time on a reasonable budget! How was your trip to see the Whale Sharks? Thanks for sharing this, looking forward to reading more about your trip :. So it was sort of worth making the trip for me, but I also spent most of my time on the boat feeling like I was going to die, haha. Did you snorkel or swim with the whale sharks? I thought you gave up snorkeling! And either way, it sounds amazing! I swore off snorkelling, but the opportunity to swim with whale sharks was too tempting to turn down. So glad you loved it! And very glad you have no incidents while there. Just do be aware that one must always be vigilant — which is probably why you got through with no crime incidents Look forward to hearing about my home town of cape town. To visit Mozambique is out of my budget. But I really enjoyed your blog and found interesting and informative. Are you not going to Tanzania? Do you have any tips? Great post! Love everything you write xx. Not on this trip, but hopefully later this year. Your trip looks amazing! I really want to get to Mozambique someday! Looking forward to reading some more! Give me a shout if you go to Tanzania later in the year! No problem! Amazing post Lauren..! Really enjoyed it. Pictures are stunning.. Food habits and the prices sounds great… Seems like nothing to worry about food while your stay in there. Thanks for sharing. Definitely not! Such a lovely post. I am planning on doing a similar trip so i found the budget elements very helpful. I laughed at your description of the public transport-it is like an adventure in itself. Hope you have a wonderful time in Mozambique, even while on the public transport Great post…! Funnily enough, this place looks a little similar to Sri Lanka. Have you been? I have! Thank you for this interesting post. We get a lot of informations from this. We plan to visit Mozambique on August. We have some transport concern…indeed we couldnt find a private transport from Vilanculos to Gorogonsa National Park. Do you have a company to recommand? Ahh thanks for this breakdown it is so helpful as I am planning a trip in Nov for my birthday and want to spend it in Vilanculous……. Your email address will not be published. Facebook Twitter. Note that prices below are listed in Euros. My private hut at Baobab Backpackers, in Vilanculos. I loved this guesthouse so much! A dhow in Vilanculos. The fantastic restaurants and bars in Tofo. Beach wanderings on an island close to Vilanculos. Ah, I love this country so much! Mozambican meticais: I loved how colourful the banknotes were! About the author. Related Posts. I loved Cape Town! Advika honeymoon in manali. Isabel Alves. Hey Lauren, Thanks for the shout out! Ah, amazing! Dear Lauren, Thank you for this interesting post. Thank you for your help Karim. September 25, Leave a reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. How to start a successful travel blog.
Getaway went on a self-drive 4×4 expedition from Bilene to Vilanculos to ferret out the best of old and new for a beach holiday.
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Mozambique tweaks its tourism act a little every year. Image: Catherine Hofmeyr. A balmy evening breeze rustled the palms, while I looked over a headland to the beach. Renowned Tofinho surf point lay just around the corner. It was the perfect spot for a frosty Dois M after a long drive. There are few short road hops in Mozambique. Long ones become very long ones due to crawling traffic in towns and getting lost among stately palms on seaward tracks. Our long hop had started two days earlier in Joburg, when Getaway colleague Gabby Jacobs and I had piled our sarongs, snorkelling gear and mozzie repellent into an Isuzu D-Max crew cab and set the on-board sat-nav for Komatipoort. I was last in Mozambique 12 years ago, and plenty has changed. Our eastern neighbour is now red — not communist-hangover or even Coke red, but Vodacom red, on virtually every village building. And the feared transitos traffic police smiled and waved our bakkie through every checkpoint. First stop was Bilene, on the shores of Uembje Lagoon, separated from the sea by a narrow strip of coastal dunes. The lodge is right on the lagoon, with green lawns, a communal Saturday braai at a beachside pool and mooring for boats out front. We anchored near the lagoon mouth and crossed the beach to where sand cliffs culminated in Turtle Rock. From the top we spotted three. The views of a wild coastline disappearing northwards were just as exhilarating. It proved a slow-going six-and-a-half, crossing the Limpopo at bustling Xai-Xai and on past the beautiful lake-lands around Quissico. Five centuries on, there are still some fine humans around. For action and activities in the area, we just asked Eddie. Allison and Dave bought it in December last year and have transformed it into an organised beachfront shop. Team Duzentos were delighted to shred Tofo beach break while I clicked away. The coast from Barra to Tofinho is a hub of scuba diving and surfing activity and the hot — literally — newcomer on the block is Peri-Peri Divers. Steve Counsel grew up on a council estate in Manchester. In his late teens he washed up in Cape Town, then decided to drive home. Peri-Peri Divers in Tofo makes learning scuba diving easy in the five-metre-deep pool on site. Back at Malcampo, Eddie had an old Safari surfboard and lots of advice, but the swell remained tiny until just before we had to leave. Cursing Murphy, Poseidon and other spoilers of that ilk, I bounced reluctantly out of Tofinho, vowing to be back. I asked Ben Gericke, straddling my dikwiel bike. It was a day later and we were on the flat highway of beach fronting Travessia Lodge at low tide. At the end of a sand track through cashew trees and palms, we came to the off-grid eco-lodge, a hilltop collection of sea-view chalets linked by boardwalks. Travessia is a barefoot luxury lodge designed for chilling — but the lodge dogs, Essie and TK, much preferred Gabby Jacobs cycling down the beach at low tide, than reading in her porch hammock. Images: Catherine Hofmeyr. And what a dinner it was, with braaied rock cod and a crayfish too big for the plate. Traditionally, Vilanculos was a launch pad for visitors to the upmarket island lodges of the Bazaruto Archipelago, but these days the seafront town has plenty to offer landlubbers. While I met up with Kerry Butler of Sailaway Dhow Safaris at their mainland camp, Gabby spent two nights at Archipelago Resort, a long-time family favourite with a dive centre, south of town. From the veranda of each thatched casa, there are magnificent views of the sandbanks and turquoise channels as the tide ebbs and flows around the islands. Image: Elizabeth Broomhall. Dhows in Vilanculos are almost as ancient as the islands themselves. Chatting to Kerry rekindled fond memories of a long-ago family trip to the island of Margaruque, so next day I joined fellow guests Alexis and Martin aboard the Dona Teresa. It was just a glimpse, then it dived out of sight. There are only a handful of these mythical creatures left in the Bazaruto National Park. As we sailed into the reef-sheltered cove, memories from 12 years ago came flooding back. Blissfully nothing — the water was still translucent aquamarine and the snorkelling sublime. Back on the mainland, I discovered a very good reason to overnight in town: Casa Babi, with on-site Odyssea Divers. Arriving damp, salty and sunburnt from the island day trip, the fluffy towels, marula conditioner and Kalahari body lotion were just the pampering my body craved. And slowly Casa Babi rose out of cactus and sand on the plot next door into a boutique guest house in tropical foliage. The three-course dinner included crayfish with French flair. The drive from Inharrime to Dunes de Dovela via Lake Dongane is an attraction in itself, low-range diff-lock stuff on deep sand tracks winding through coastal forest with overhanging boughs of green monkey orange and dune jackalberry. Building Dovela was a labour of love for Thomas and his partner, Alexandra Polleau, originally from France. Cashew-tree fruit; drive through coastal forest to reach Dunes de Dovela via Lake Dongane. Thomas has personally ticked off birds on the property. The food is great too, with Alexandra using produce and seafood from local villagers in her creative cooking. The back roads from Dovela to Zavora presented scenic Moz at its best — through villages and along lakes. In need of a lick of paint and a weed-eater in places, Zavora Lodge has nevertheless outlived several other operations in the area. There are two reasons, and they both start with P: position and price. Set on a very fine beach with safe swimming, an on-site dive centre and a mean reputation for deep-sea fishing, the lodge has it all. Still prolific in the Zavora area, many coconut plantations were recently decimated by an insect-borne disease; sunrise surf check at Tofinho Point. Divers have myriad sites to choose from, including two wreck dives. There were big old crayfish, colourful nudibranchs and a white-tipped reef shark, but no mantas winging out of the gloom. But, on the kilometre coastal strip from Bilene to Vilanculos, the variety of stay-and-play options for a beach holiday is staggering these days. Go find your favourite. Jorge riding a wave at Tofo Beach. Catherine Hofmeyr. The giant rays are commonly sighted from June to September. MAR also runs environmental projects, including beach and ocean clean-ups contact them for internships. From R, Our trip was organised by Mozambique Connection, a one-stop shop for bookings, advice and border procedures. The Komatipoort border is a five-hour drive from Joburg on the N4 toll road. Buy third-party insurance around R for 11 days at the border or online from DriveMoz. Driving Never drive at night. If you speed you will be caught; signage is often absent or confusing. The EN1 is a bit potholed south of Inhambane, but good, new highway northwards. Download the Zello two-way radio app and use the DriveMoz channels for any troubles on the road. Buy a starter pack for your cell phone in Moz — data is much cheaper than in SA. Health Travel insurance with medical evac is essential — some dive operators require proof. This is a malaria area so take precautions. Self-catering Buy fresh from local fishermen and produce markets. There are Shoprite, U-Save or Taurus supermarkets in bigger towns. When to go May to October is cooler and the threat of malaria recedes. Komati River Chalets is a good stopover before the border, with a restaurant. Guided hiking, village walks and snorkelling is included. Zavora Lodge i s an extensive property with comfortable double rooms from R; self-catering cottages from R sleep four , beachfront camping from R pp and casitas and backpackers from R pp. Do this Surf, fish, snorkel, swim, walk, do sundowners at the Zavora Point lighthouse and explore the lakes. The lodge rents out surf and body boards, and the diving in the area is fantastic. Nearby Doxa Beach Hotel from R pp has beach horse- riding. Enjoy a frosty Dois M after a morning or afternoon spent at Tofinho Point, known as the most consistent surf break in Moz. Stay here. There are plenty of bars and restaurants in Tofo. C-Mew has a great view and seafood, just a stumble from Casa Malcampo. Mozambeat is the place for a good night-time vibe, music and cocktails rooms from R pp. Surf Tofinho point, Dragons or Tofo Beach. A two-hour ocean safari with gear is R pp. Travessia Lodge has just five chalets, including one family unit. The lodge has a pool, bikes for beach riding, kayaks and body boards, and offers guided village walks; ocean safaris, snorkelling or diving in Tofo can be booked on request. Staff can arrange beach horse rides, town tours or a cooking course with the chef. Archipelago Resort has 18 sea-view casas on a large, shady property, from R2, sleeps six. Odyssea Diving at Casa Babi has diving, snorkelling and ocean safaris plus kiteboarding lessons or hire. Sailaway runs traditional dhow sailing trips to the Archipelago islands. Get casual meals at Zombie Cucumber and Baobab ; feet-in-the-sand Casbah has good calamari; go to Sand Dollar for the view. Honeypot , 12km south of Xai- Xai, is where Gautengers in the know overnight. Self- catering chalet from R sleeps two , camping from R pp. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. These cookies ensure basic functionalities and security features of the website, anonymously. 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