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What IS the point of Christmas Cake? Friends come over — we feed them mince pies. And snacking is bad, and sugar is the devil etc etc. There is, however, a solution! This year, get your cake, unwrap it or before you ice it — this may be a tad too late , upend it, and stick a dried pea and a bean in each side. Plonk it back on the plate and decorate as per usual. The kicker is that you then save it, to be eaten with lovely people and lots of booze on Twelfth Night 6th January while you all have a have a proper party to send out the season. You need bacon and wine. How about going some way toward it? You could still to the bean and pea thing? With a crown from a cracker or the finder of the bean, or a small token of your esteem. Makes cutting the cake way cooler…. This year, I am singing the praises of Twelfth Cake in public not once, but twice. I am bound to be asked for the recipes, so here they are. For Bakers, we were looking at an s Christmas, when Twelfth Cake was really at its peak see my previous post on the subject. The bakers were tasked with making cake for all, not just the fashionable bon ton who could afford the beautiful concoctions sometimes featured at heritage sites, but the riff and the raff and everyone in between. Their cakes needed to be quick to make and decorate, and easy to sell — bright, fun, and funky. Inspired by the lurid descriptions of the time, the results were utterly joyous, and when the shop window was dressed it was so spot on that it made me very happy. The cake recipe was from The Knight Family Cookbook, which is linked to Jane Austen through her brother, and was reprinted as a facsimile by Chawton House a few years ago. Then put your cake into your hoop with 3 or 4 papers at the bottom. This cake is very subject to scorch, so when it colours lay a paper over it. It must stand in the oven full 2 hours, longer if it be thick when almost cold ice it. I love the wording of this recipe, from the hoop half a yard across we had to commission one , to the assumption that the cook knows the texture of a hasty pudding thick batter. It speaks volumes that the writer assumes blood warm makes perfect sense — which it did to me, who spends half my life reading recipes like this, but it confused a couple of the bakers. And teh use of the term suckets for candied lemon and citron is a throwback to the 17th century and earlier, and, along with the use of yeast as the raising agent, hints at the longevity of this kind of recipe. Clearly if you decide to make it, scale it down. Thus the recipe which I chose for the show was an earlier one though the above would have been around then, easily. I also inserted tokens into the cake, whereas for Bakers, set years later, we played with cut up Twelfth Night Character cards. Pepys records similar shenanigans, but he rigged it so that a friend of his under investigation for fraud got the clove…. Again, the cake is yeast-risen, and packed with fruit and booze. Neither recipe contains much sugar; a reflection of the high cost of sugar before the late 18th century. Both benefit from a little while to rise, this more than the former. This one is somewhat bread-ier, and keeps less well hence the ground almonds, which improve keeping qualities , but it is also slightly lighter, and was eaten by the audience before any of the panellists got a look-in. Again, the language is revealing, though less old-fashioned than the manuscript recipe: tidied up, perhaps, for a modern reading audience. The paste at the bottom of the hoop is a nifty idea to stop the bottom burning, and doubles as a cake board when the thing is served. Agnes Marshall even has a recipe specifically for cake bottom pastry. And to prove I put my money where my mouth is, I have made all of my Christmas Cakes into Twelfth Cakes this year, peas and beans in every one. Some have, however, already been consumed…. I tend to do an eighth for a standard 12 inch cake tin. Note the liquid measurement for a dry foodstuff in the flour. If you are not hanging up the bunting and getting in the booze, then you are missing out, in my view. I adore Eurovision. Always have. In the UK, we tend to look toward America for our foreign music, and I still remember the shock and mild horror when I realised that French radio played a lot of French music — and Spanish, and German, and whatever was popular in the European club scene at the time. I am head down writing chapters of A Greedy Queen like a demon at the moment, so I shall make the rest of this post pithy. I ate a modern version last year while on the Great Austria Trip and it was immense. In an amazing departure from every academic norm ever, I refer you to the Wikipedia entry , which has been edited by a crack team based around the Oxford Food Symposium, and therefore is one of only about ten accurate food history articles on the web. France: Inevitably. For France we can delve into the 18th century, as high end cooking was all French influenced at that stage. The French drank a lot of chocolate, and this one has booze in, which you tend to need about halfway through the first song. Anyway, take a pint of sherry, or a pint and a half of red port, four ounces and a half of chocolate, six ounces of fine sugar, and half an ounce of white starch, or fine flour; mix, dissolve, and boil all these as before. But, if your chocolate be with sugar, take double the quantity of chocolate, and half the quantity of sugar; and so in all. Essentially they are a rusk made of brioche dough. If you seriously want to try them, ping me a comment and I can send the recipe. Australia : good on the Australians for taking it seriously enough to send a really good song, and being undecided enough to only send her with only half a dress. Love it. I should probably admit that my actual menu for my own evening with friends is not exactly this. Music should be enjoyable, right? A winning combination. Anyway, the fabulous Norbert Santeler, whose recipe it is, has supplied it for the delectation of his adoring English speaking public. This is essentially a cheese cake which you assemble and chill overnight. It does, however, need a pastry and a cake base, which need to be made in advance. Shortcrust pastry base. If bought, make sure it is all butter for otherwise it is truly vile as opposed to just not great. Roll it out, and cut it to fit the springform cake tin or, better still, cake ring in which you plan to make your final cake. You could make it in a deep dish, if you have neither cake tin nor cake ring. Sponge cake base. Again, make this in the same tin that you are assembling your final cake in. That way it will all fit together and be the right size. Any sponge cake recipe will be fine. Beat the sour cream with the icing sugar, coconut syrup and milk until smooth. Make sure that your cream is whipped to soft peak and add sugar to taste. Meanwhile, soften the gelatine sheets in cold water until they are very floppy. Squeeze them out gently and add them to a little boiling water a tbsp should suffice — you need to dissolve them completely. Microwave or heat on the hob if necessary. Leave to cool completely. Now add a little of the whipped cream into the mixture to loosen it, before folding in the remaining whipped cream. Spread apricot jam onto the round shortcrust base. Then add the sponge cake on top of that and place a cake ring round it. Alternatively, put the pastry in the bottom of a deep dish or springform cake tin, add the jam then the cake — the idea is simply to build up the layers inside a support which will hold the cream mix together while it sets. If you do it in a cake ring or springform tin you can demould it, if in a dish, best to serve in the dish. Put a single layer of ladyfingers into the middle and distribute chunks of pineapple around it. Now repeat the process: spread the cream mixture on top, then add ladyfingers and pineapple. Distribute the remaining mixture evenly on top and add grated coconut as the finishing touch — the snow on your glacier snow cake, if you will. Norbert says you can also add chocolate or nuts to the sponge cake mixture. And I imagine you can use any jam you most desire — or possibly even some mincemeat! Once more into the fray… Normally for the JMHC programme I can be found poncing around various kitchens cooking up historic dishes and explaining the social history behind them. For the Xmas special, however, I have a somewhat different role. The historic food slots are still in the programme — the fab Ivan Day is thoroughly in his element — but I got sent begged to be allowed to go to Austria as a roving food reporter. Turns out I really like schnapps as well. We came off a stupidly early flight, landed, got in a van, and went straight up a mountain. The Swedish, German, Austrian and Slovakian ski teams were practicing on the slopes and the entire film crew got mad altitude sickness and spent the time drinking fat Coke and trying not to fall over. And the challenges of cooking at high altitude were significant — Norbert is a weather forecast junkie, because high and low pressure affects how dough and pastry behave, and water boils at lower temperatures at altitude anyway. Cake is everywhere, and it is very, very good cake. We made a sort of cheesecake right up in the top of the glacier itself. The cows are a breed specially adapted for mountain regions, with wide hooves, strong legs and the ability to put on fat from low grade pasture. Therese is a sort of enabler, and has masterminded a range of chocolates based on the products of the immediate region. However, with this exception, the chocolates produced under the Tiroler Edle brand are pretty much made using stuff the chocolatier can see from his window. The milk and cream for the ganaches comes from the aforementioned cows, and the flavourings are all natural and all very, very local indeed. They are pretty lovely. Hans-Joerg has a shop, as does Therese, and they sell a lot on the web. Chocolate really needs a bit of sugar to bring out the flavours. But my advice is to gorge on the filled bars, which are sublime. The Xmas specials, which include spiced apple, are among the best chocolate bars I have ever eaten. Oh, we ate a lot of wild cranberries as part of this. Weird little beasties. I prefer barberries. Day three started really well. They were only small servings — 2cl is the usual size — and in Austria schnapps is THE drink for welcoming friends, strangers, children, passers-by…. Unlike the flavoured booze I make at home, this is the real deal. The town itself has 50 official distilleries out of households , but my suspicion is that there were a lot more hidden behind closed doors. Unlike in the UK, where regulations brought in to curb the production of gin in the 18th century still affect would-be home distillers today, small scale distilling is pretty common in Austria. Wherever we went there were portable stills being hauled out of garages and set up ready to capture the fruits of the season. The high point was properly discovering schnapps. Up at 4am to go and nearly die as a giant milk float took off at great speed and with no warning from a half empty dairy in the dark. Heinz, who is a local dairy farmer, heads up a co-operative which took over the dairy a few years ago. At the time it was struggling, which meant that the livelihoods of the 25 or so high mountain farmers who depended on it as a market for their milk were at risk of going bust. The farms in question are too remote and too small to be able to supply big dairies and still make a profit. The solution for them, since the s when the system was installed, was to zip wire their milk down the mountain, directly to the dairy, which then processed it into butter and cheese. When Heinz and the co-op took over, they quickly concluded that the only way to remain profitable in the modern big agri-business-led food world, was to go upmarket. The dairy now has full organic certification, but it remains totally independent and unfunded by outside support. This is a scheme set up by the government specifically to promote regional food and encourage food and drink tourism. It struck me as a jolly good idea, and had clearly benefited many of the small scale artisan producers we encountered. But Heinz and the farmers decided to do it on their own and set their own rules, so that the dairy would benefit exactly the people it most needed to, while preserving a culinary and farming heritage which was close to dying out. A true co-operative, indeed. At the dairy, raw milk butter and amazing cheese is sold in a small shop, along with a few other products, and they have a roaring trade supplying walkers. It was the only shop in Austria not in a major tourist town that I saw open at a weekend, so no wonder. Other things I did: milked cows, fed goats, ate oodles of kletzenbrot, made butter not in costume for once, whoop — apart from the white coat and hat , drank more home-made schnapps. Day 5: Theresia Bacher, the rauchkuchl at Stulfelden airs 18th Dec. Words fail me. The views were stunning though, and the food incredible. During which I dragged the whole crew to Salzburg to pay homage to the Sound of Music. Dan, the lovely cameraman, bought socks. Florian, the equally lovely runner and driving maestro, bought shoes. Director Sophia and I ignored them both and hit the souvenir shops. Back when Britain was a Catholic country, the days of Advent leading up to Christmas were official fast days, upon which all animal products were to be avoided, and only fish and non-animal products eaten. Obviously, the same was true for the rest of Catholic Europe too, and, along with Rome, Austria was the heartland of Catholicism. The head of the country was the Holy Roman Emperor, after all. In medieval and early Tudor England, fish or fast days formed over half of the calendar year for an observant Catholic though, and fish cookery reached heights later generations could really only dream of. The range of fish, like the range of meat, that we ate was far larger than that consumed today. Carp was a definite favourite. He and his wife, who breeds Sheltand ponies, are impassioned advocates for all things pure, and he feeds the fish only the good stuff, ensures that the water is lovely, and, most importantly, says that the cold mountain climate helps keep the taste fresh and fishy. We ate it fried in butter. It was lush. Chris is an ex-rock god, turned sweet maker. The showmanship suits him. This whole day was brilliant fun, and I can see why people flock to stare in awe as they watch sugar and glycerine being turned into mini bits of rock. I was aware of the principles, of course, but the bit where pulled sugar is handmade into tiny, intricate edible art miniatures was less clear. It reminded me of glass-sculpting, with which Chris says there are, indeed, many similarities — working in intense heat, risk of major burns, the need to work rapidly, the translucent beauty of the material and the delicacy of the end product. One of the high points of the day was seeing a late 19th century catalogue of sweets and chocolates produced by the Heller company and meeting Herr Heller himself. Well into the 20th century sweets of this type were made by hand because there was simply no way to mechanise such an intricate and time-consuming process. Of course, all this means that the sweets cost more than the average mass-produced roll of artificially flavoured nastiness. But the demands of the public for cheap, sugary yuckiness, and lots of it, and a corresponding failure to appreciate artisan-led production, led to the demise of the hand-crafted sweets, and subsequent demise of Hellers, in the 60s. Bernhard is half soft-spoken academic, half action man. He used to work for the Austrian equivalent of DEFRA, until a nagging desire to recultivate saffron in the Wachau got the better of him. I adored Bernhard. He was passionate about the product, the history, and the culture surrounding saffron, but also switched-on to making it work as a 21st century business. His dream is to see saffron brought back to all the areas of Europe which once grew rich on the saffron trade — Essex and Cornwall being the English growth centres in the 15th century and thereabouts. We made a cake. The scent is incredible, the colour rich…. As usual, though, I found that cooked it was nowhere near as lovely. Mangalitzas are a Hungarian breed, valued above all else for the quality and quantity of their fat. And, as we all know, fat means flavour. They are also real lookers. They are often known as sheep-pigs for their coat is not mere bristles in the way of most British pigs, but actual real life, proper curly, fluffy fur. Now extinct, it was reputedly a very friendly and very tasty pig. There are early 20th century pictures of kids riding about on them, and they were a mass of white curly fluff. They were even exported to Austria-Hungary and cross bred with the Mangalitza to make a Lincolnitza, according the to ever-reliable Shire Guide to British Pigs. However, the Mangalitza is slightly different. The Lincs version, like most British pigs, was snub-snouted. The Mangalitza is far more like the wild boars from which pigs are eventually descended. It has a pointed face, and the males have decided tusks. The piglets are stripy, again like boars, though they come in red, white and black and are adorable. Christoph and Isabell have farmed them since they received a breeding pair as a wedding present I have friend envy , and are now world-renowned for their knowledge. They mainly sell livestock, and their own extensive knowledge. And OH! I ate it 12 ways, including raw fat, lardo, rare skirt, long cook pocket, tripe stew, spleen on toast and lard pastries. All of it was gorgeous especially the spleen toasts actually. All hail the Mangalitza for it is gooooood. NB: you can buy Mangalitza hams and the meat itself from various places in the UK — Google is your friend. I have just purchased a Xmas joint and sundry other items from Brynheulog Rare Breeds , and they were brilliant — even managing to fish out a spleen for me…. The last day. We were all, unsurprisingly, knackered, and the figs were all that kept us going. That and, it must be said, the schnapps. Figs make excellent schnapps. And geist an infused version of schnapps, I think. They also make excellent ice cream, jam, marmalade, vinegar, and the little ones are pretty stunning soaked in booze. Yes, yet more booze. The story behind the rather random sight of a Mediterranean fruit growing in sub-zero temperatures on the outskirts of Vienna is fairly simple. Ursula and Harald took over what amounts to a humongous allotment, or mini smallholding, on the outskirts of Vienna, so that they could grow fruit and veg. As with the carp and plums, they suggest that the extremes of temperature are apparently a big help. The trees are sown directly in the ground, no need to bind the roots, and are very productive. They prune them when they threaten to break through the roof, but otherwise largely leave them to it — and they have loads of varieties, in every colour from white to red and yellow. Hey ho, fig joy got me happily through Vienna airport, where the Sleazyjet gates are a sort of wasteland, inhabited only by Mozart chocolates, Toblerone and paprika crisps. Not a bacon sarnie in sight. The un-Christmassy Home Comforts is back with a brand new series on January 4th, and runs for 3 weeks. The link to the BBC homepage is here. The new series of The Kitchen Cabinet is here — yay! In keeping with the bank holiday tradition of having a ridiculously late lunch of half cooked meat with a tang of firefighting fluid, we discussed barbecuing. I brought one of these with me. It has a long, complicated, and increasingly disputed history. The OED suggests etymological origins from Portugal, with the word itself entering the English language by the seventeenth century. You can find early English recipes in most eighteenth century cookery books, such as this one, from Henderson c. Elsewhere, the term is used to indicate the grilling of meat over a fire on a platform or piece of apparatus constructed for the purpose. Incidentally, grilling is in in the old English and modern American sense of heat from below, rather than modern English heat from above. Today we use grill for top heat, Americans use broil. We used to use broil for top heat too. Australia, New Zealand and, of course, America, in particular the Deep South, also have the benefits of having a climate which makes the development of BBQ techniques and recipes not only feasible, but necessary — put simply, in a country like Britain, where you can reasonably only BBQ three or four times a year, BBQ can only ever remain a bit of a novelty. And yes, very poor, and rural poor, in the Deep South, means slaves and their descendants. BBQ, then, historically, is just cooking. English recipes clearly show that, even if its origins may have been in outdoor, open-fire cookery, the term was quickly applied to kitchen-based cookery. In America, where it stayed outside, it was still everyday cookery. So how on earth did we get to a stage where, in the UK at least, it has become a weirdly gendered, and very specific style, of ruining your lunch? I think part of it comes down to open fires disappearing from our homes. Of course, many homes still had open fires for heating at that point, but fires for cooking on were increasingly rare. By the late 60s and 70s, when BBQ recipes and techniques were starting to appear in cookery books, the gender division was already clear, along with the cunning ploy of selling extra kit to naive cooks. Pshaw, I say. Well, of course. We have absolutely no need for heaps of special tools for cooking stuff in a way in which was the only way of cooking stuff for quite a lot of centuries. A modern day standard charcoal BBQ is just a chafing stove. A grill with charcoal in, and stuff cooking on top! Which brings me to my last point. But how to better the British BBQ experience? Well, if you think of your BBQ as a chafing stove and basic roasting apparatus, it does rather help. Here are my top historically influenced tips:. BBQs enable most of us to get as close to proper roasting as we will ever come. Then you can do this:. Grill stuff. Hence the gridiron I opened with. Use the same techniques you would use in a top heat grill attached to an oven. Sorry — honestly, it was a terrible evening and the memories just burn. Buy a meat thermometer. Or the dedicated webpage is here. About 5 years ago, M and I visited Lyon, the self-proclaimed gastronomic capital of France along with a few other places. Clearly, this was like a flame to my moth, so we booked — and in booking ended up in a conversation with the chef-patron, who was a medievalist and I get going around Pant-wettingly exciting to a food historian, anyway. Basil wine may sound a bit odd. It probably is a bit odd, if you only ever drink kir or beer before a meal. But it was absolutely divine. I love basil anyway, and this was slightly honeyed not too much — honey, ik , palette-cleansing and appetite whetting all at once. I drank, I loved, I asked where you could get it…. Cue about three years of obsessing. Eventually, perusing Maria Rundell, I found a recipe for clary wine. And this is where I and books diverge. And there should be no surprise that some old recipes taste good, because some new recipes taste good. And tastes change. If I were to pick a load of recipes books off your shelf, would I truly get a picture of how you eat? Recipe books are great! But they can only ever be a starting point and a way of generalising about experience, past and present. There is quite simply no guarantee anyone, ever, actually cooked any recipe written in any cookery book unless you have cast iron proof to the contrary. And then they may have changed it next time they cooked it. Mainly, purists will doubtless point out, that fact that pretty much all herbal wines use flowers, not leaves. Yeah, well, I had leaves, ok. And I had to scale it down. A lot. Later — 4fl oz brandy. I take a pint to be the old pint, I. All you do is simmer the water and sugar together to make a weak syrup and leave to cool completely. Stick this in a demi-john and add the yeast and basil leaves, no need to tear or chop. Eventually it will stop bubbling. Add the brandy. Bottle — kilner style bottles are safest as two of my batches underwent secondary fermentation and became basil champagne. Leave for 4 months. My other half was a non-cook when I met him. As you might imagine, most of that is not longer the case put him near unattended pasta or roast potatoes and you can forget leftovers , so, as the other person in the car, he was quite a good person to be having that discussion with. To be fair, despite my current culinary habits, I lived on microwave meals as a teenager, only really discovering the joys of food and cooking when my Dad and I moved to France for 3 years when I was Our major preoccupation, apart from me steering, not speeding and going in the right general direction, was to come up with a list of basic recipes which would be a useful, b easy, c reasonably cheap, and d versatile, for anyone coming to cooking from scratch for the first time. I argued my case based on firm historic principles and a love of eggs. This is the list we eventually came up with. Omelette: eating what became my version, which involves a LOT of butter, was the moment I realised food was more than just fuel. It was , and it had been thrown together by a Frenchwoman with whom I was boarding. You are never alone with a good omelette. Batter pudding: the batter mix can also be used for pancakes, and pancakes piled up with jam and cream to make an impressive and stupidly easy dessert. Plus, batter puddings can have absolutely anything put in them. Sausages, obviously, as toad-in-the-hole, but I like leftover roast beef, pork etc. Oh, and stoned fruit and sugar makes clafoutis. Suet crust pudding: because a pudding basin and a cloth are easier to store than a slow cooker, and suet crust is divine. Basin-cooked steak and kidney, or pork and apple, or pigeon and parsnip are all dead easy, and you can then branch out into sausage or bacon and onion or jam roly poly. These days I often chuck in a tin of beans or something as well. Can add garlic, can add cayenne pepper. This is my go-to sauce for everything. Soup is great. You can have light lunchtime soup based on delicate stocks, clarified to the point of beauty, or a thick, sustaining winter soup in which the spoon stands up. Stock pretty much falls into the same category. Cracking fish cooking was a big thing in our house. In a modern kitchen, the key is a meat thermometer and resting time. This category could and probably should be extended to include decent roast potatoes parboiled, at least double roasted, ensure there are leftovers to refry to go with marmite the next day , and gravy. Now, ok, white sliced makes dreadful breadcrumbs, stinks when you try and bake off the moisture in the oven, and is generally fit for nothing, but it still appalls me that we waste so much, when there are so many things which can be done with stale bread. Bread dough: why? M says having learnt to make pizza as one of the first things he did, when it came to wanting to make bread later on, he was never scared and now he has a sourdough starter with a name — and offspring, and is bread making fiend. Plus, cold pizza for lunch, mmmmm. And most of the above take less than 90mn start to finish, with very little actual contact time. Anyway, that was the fruit of an hour or so on the road. What about you? Top easy recipes for the novice cook? The campaign is based around a website, which contains recipes, all very simple and easy on the kit and the ingredients, along with articles, tips and tricks which link to the various reasons people gave for wanting to learn to cook. The Beeb did a survey to inform the website content, and show the scope of the problem. So what? Teach yourself which is what I did in my teenage years. There are potential health dangers in high consumption of heavily industrialised foods, including the simple fact that portions are on the large side. The Dish Up survey suggested that the main motivators for wanting to cook are health and saving money, but there are also factors around sociability, family dynamics, and enjoyment. Keen cooks will be aware that all of these barriers are rubbish, if you pick the right recipe. The only knife is a bread knife I have brought a 10 inch cooks knife and a paring knife. No mixing bowls though it does have a lettuce washer. I made mayonnaise on day 1 in a mock flowerpot which was being used to keep the dishcloth in. And I did buy a couple of cheap 70s mixing bowls at a car boot sale on day 2. Day 1: olives, cheese. Fried sand smelts, battered in a fizzy water, flour and egg batter and shallow fried. Massive box of strawberries and unpasteurised cream there are some large advantages to being in France. Day 2: yoghurt and jam for breakfast, picnic lunch, dinner of tuna marinated in olive oil and garlic, briefly blanched globe artichoke and cheese salad, more strawberries. There are now no more strawberries. Day 3: breakfast poached egg and asparagus. Put slotted spoon on list of things we need to buy. Lunch, local brasserie. Dinner, endlessly cooked white beans can get them tinned, but we have the time, and they are way cheaper with more variety in a plastic net , with tinned chestnuts and mushrooms and cream sauce, with boudin blanc, fried and sliced and chucked on the beans with some lettuce as a sort of hot salad beast. Oodles of watermelon. Apples, more watermelon now all gone. Day 5: more pancakes, decided to buy some muesli as by now groaning. Dinner fried floured mackerel fillets, tomato salad, melon. Day 6: muesli. Epic lunch at a recommended resto, followed by a cheese crawl round Camembert and other cheesy villages. Dinner, as a result, was cheese, saucisson, pickles and baguette. And strawberries, now happily replaced. I could go on, but it will get repetitive. As an experient in whether I can do as I say, not just say it and ignore my own advice, it was a success. You can do an entire fry up in a toastie machine as long as you get the right model. For processed foods and health, Joanna Blythman, Swallow This occasionally a bit Daily Maily, but a good and interesting read. Includes must-read chapters on supermarkets and farmers markets. My broccoli is about to come to an end. Well……er……mainly its boil and slather with butter actually, but there are a few alternatives around. Broccoli is a relative newcomer to the UK, with the first mentions of it in print at the beginning of the 17th century. I wonder whether the tumult of the mid-century, with the interregnum, and the lapse of censorship, the spread of new and often radical ideas, and the total reshaping of British society, helped hasten the adoption of new foodstuffs. A country in which anything can be said, and anything discussed, is surely a country at its most receptive. Once introduced, broccoli gained a following fairly quickly, though right up to the 20th century it remained associated with cauliflower. Most recipe books suggest that you boil it and serve it with butter, or treat it as per cauliflower which, increasingly, means covering it with decent cheese and sticking it in the oven. That works a treat with the big headed broccoli which I associate with my childhood and which were invariably cooked to mush and served with a hideously bland white sauce. Growing up, all broccoli was the huge, stringy stuff, with nary a sprouting broccoli to be seen. Surprisingly, though, the sprouting stuff predates the other stuff, and, indeed, was all you could get when it was first introduced. Inevitably, the Victorians threw themselves enthusiastically into breeding it, and by the mid 19th century, you could choose from green, purple, red and brown sprouting broccoli. The purple sprouting sprigs we devour today are, once more, but a pale shadow of the glories of past veg patches. The modern reinvention of sprouting types seems to be relatively recent — the last 30 years or so. Air date on BBC Radio 4, On BBC iPlayer radio for 30 days after broadcast date, or as a podcast. Podcast links here. William Hone, At the start of this year I went on holiday to Nice very nice. It meant I was there for Twelfth Night, which fact had occurred to me about three weeks earlier, mid-lecture, and caused me to lose my train of thought entirely and splutter a bit. The queues on the 5th were out of the door. It made me very happy. But it also made me muse, for we used to be the same in Britain. Most people have never even heard of Twelfth Cake here, yet it thrives in France. So, as we speed fast away from another Christmas, it seems apt to post an entirely untimely post on a lost British tradition. Still, for most people Christmas is a distant memory. Indeed, it sometimes seems that Christmas in the 21st century starts around September, and ends promptly, just after dinner on the 25th December. How different to the medieval and early Tudor festival, which started in early December with the advent fast, and really got going on the 24th or 25th December it depended whether you counted the start of the day from the evening of the night before. In some countries the 24th December is still the key day for the Christmas feast. Each day was associated with a different saint, and could include different customs and foods. It signalled the end of the feast season, and the start in earnest of the new year. The early Christian Church harnessed all the various pre-Christian shenanigans to religious festivals, in this case to the Feast of the Epiphany, when according to the Christian mythology, kings from afar brought gifts and knelt before the new-born Jesus. Anyway, back to Twelfth Cake. The concept goes back to the medieval period, when the cake would have been a yeast-risen rich fruit concoction. Each side concealed, respectively, a dried pea and a dried bean, with men and women taking slices from each side until a Twelfth Night King He of the Bean and Queen she of the Pea were revealed. The various cake-eaters would select a card at random and play that character for the evening. The cake would be cut later. Surviving pictures often depict the cake, which could reach epic proportions, with one or two crowns on top. They seem to have been a popular choice of baked goods not to cook in-house, and I suspect that they may have been one of the reliable best-sellers for pastry-cooks and confectioners at the time. One advert shows a Twelfth Cake decorated with figures, presumably those commonly depicted in the Twelfth Night cards, and probably made from sugarpaste pressed into moulds. But late Georgian Britain was a place of epicurean and sensory delight — why stop at people and crowns? From the taking down of the shutters in the morning, he, and his men, with additional assistants, male and female, are fully occupied by attending to the dressing out of the window, executing orders of the day before, receiving fresh ones, or supplying the wants of chance customers. Before dusk the important arrangement of the window is completed. Then the gas is turned on, with supernumerary argand-lamps and manifold wax-lights, to illuminate countless cakes of all prices and dimensions, that stand in rows and piles on the counters and sideboards, and in the windows. The richest in flavour and heaviest in weight and price are placed on large and massy salvers; one, enormously superior to the rest in size, is the chief object of curiosity; and all are decorated with all imaginable images of things animate and inanimate. Yes, but still, what joy! The recipe for Twelfth Cake remained an old-fashioned one, well into the 19th century when yeast-risen cakes were on the decline. The sheer amount of fruit just outweighs everything else. By the middle of the 19th century, both the recipe and, increasingly the concept, was starting to look a bit anachronistic. The combined forces of Dickens, publicity around the Royal Christmases think: tree , and midth century soul-searching was changing the nature of Christmas. It had already moved from an uproarious popular and religious festival, to something fashionable folks seemed a little ashamed of. The Twelfth Cake, therefore, was in danger. More than that, it was in mortal decline. Increasing emphasis on Christmas Day, and not Christmastide, meant that Twelfth Night celebrations seemed a little outmoded. People were back at work, now living a much more urbanised and less agrarian society than that in which Twelfth Cake had been born. The fruit cake itself remained popular, but was increasingly rebranded, stripped of its fun and potential for disruption, as a Christmas Cake. So what remains today? Yes, we still have Christmas Cake, but it makes no sense when you really stop and think. Too much, after all that Christmas food because now we seem to cram 12 days of feasting into one. Pointless, when we have similar flavours in the pudding. Etc etc. And quite so. Start planting the seeds now. Get your friends and families used to the idea. Then — go for it. As garnish and outlandish as you can make it. Pea, bean, the whole works. Paper crowns, saved from Christmas. And, just to show how far I go in the name of research, because I sought out and ate both of these actually, more than one in the case of the first one , here are two modern variations on the theme, from France, where a version of Twelfth Cake still thrives. Both the galette des rois puff pastry, almond and booze custard and the gateau des rois orange flower water flavoured mildly disappointing brioche have ceramic tokens in. Both are available only in January mainly. Both come with crowns. You can do it too. He also runs cookery courses including one on Christmas food — not running but back in , he assures me. Note While researching this entry, I kept coming up against what seems to be a fairly new and exciting food myth, which suggests Queen Victoria banned Twelfth Cake in Never a proper reference given. Or does anyone out there have firm evidence i. I might have to have a rant about food myths in a future post. Skip to content. Srsly, argh. The shop. Pepys records similar shenanigans, but he rigged it so that a friend of his under investigation for fraud got the clove… Rubens celebrating James I as an actual god. Because the 17th century has done it ALL before. Some have, however, already been consumed… Yes, they were vaguely themed: this one is vaguely Tudor and uses Tudor sugarplate C18th gum plate. More sugarplate, different recipe, new moulds. From a book from The early C18th version. M insisted we try one to check they were edible and it was gone in minutes. Happy Christmas! The recipes, side by side, for scaling purposes. Can also be made with parakeets. Gletscherschneetorte Glacier Snow Cake This is essentially a cheese cake which you assemble and chill overnight. Can be done the day before you want to eat it. Ingredients : g sour cream, g whipping cream, whipped to soft peak, g icing sugar, 4 standard sheets of gelatine Norbert recommends 8 small sheets — the UK standard ones each set ml of liquid so this should be fine, but by all means play around , 1 small tin of pineapple chunks in juice, 3 tablespoons of whole milk, 1 tablespoon of coconut syrup essence would probably do at a push , Ladyfingers or boudoir biscuits, granulated sugar, apricot jam, grated coconut desiccated, either sweetened or unsweetened as you prefer, is fine Preparation : Beat the sour cream with the icing sugar, coconut syrup and milk until smooth. NOTE : Norbert says you can also add chocolate or nuts to the sponge cake mixture. Lots and lots of cake. Up a glacier. Ski lifts. Three down…. Eating butter and fruit bread with THAT view. The smoky kitchen itself. Day 6: day off… During which I dragged the whole crew to Salzburg to pay homage to the Sound of Music. Day 7: Peter Paffrath, Peters Land , carp farm and general smallholding airs 9th Dec Back when Britain was a Catholic country, the days of Advent leading up to Christmas were official fast days, upon which all animal products were to be avoided, and only fish and non-animal products eaten. Well happy. Well muddy. Cake, train tracks and Bernhard and me. Fluffy, stripy piglets. Happy be thy digestive system. The opening shots are of Innsbruck Christmas market, by the way. Santa was VERY friendly. He gave me a gingerbread heart and showed me his stuffed chicken. The hills are aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive. A gridiron. Kew Palace chafing stoves, c. Here are my top historically influenced tips: 1. Then you can do this: Chicken on a spit. It works better if you put the coals underneath really, but I was experimenting. You can make sauces. Like this: You can use a normal pan. I have no idea how alcoholic it is, but I get fairly happy after two glasses….. Here, for reference, is the original. Maria Rundell, edition. We were all ILL, ok. Musings on food and history. Create a free website or blog at WordPress. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.
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Remember Me? Wife and kids LOVE and are mad for skiing. I find it OK. As a result I'm left thinking 'we've skinted ourselves again, no nice summer hols, no ACS springs etc etc for something I'm not hugely enjoying Any pearls of wisdom? Appreciate 0. I feel your pain.!! Get a cheap rental car take it out to a field packed with snow.. Yours truly Neighborhood Divorce Attorney. Appreciate 2. PurpleTT Divorce expensive wife, buy what you want for car, go on holiday to the South of France and snort coke off high class hookers. Appreciate 6. Originally Posted by HelmutVisor. Appreciate 1. HelmutVisor Originally Posted by teaston. You forces guys know how to have a good time! Lieutenant Colonel. Originally Posted by Brigand. Of course I can do a good 'lease' deal on a decent spec 'Escort' Lithuanian registered, body work is stunning. M40CCA Thanks chaps. Originally Posted by XAlp. Dyl Check this out. Pricing is decent. In Austria we offer the following Trainings. Brigadier General. Originally Posted by TouringPleb. Isn't putting your wife and kids first what you signed up for? You sound quite resentful. Lieutenant General. Not sure how old your kids are - when ours were teens they went skiing with school so we had summer holidays and they got best of both worlds. Wouldnt work for your wife but if she has girlfriends who ski maybe you could offer her a weekend without the kids whilst you looked after them But echo the comments about flying the nest - mine are now 24 and 23 and holidays with me are a thing of the past. I can indulge in whatever car I want now though. I would happily swap that for the time with the kids! Private First Class. When you talk of them flying the nest, are they old enough that you're not tied to school holidays? If possible, my advice would be to ditch Austria in prime season, lovely though it is, and go high and go late. As my knee started to go downhill I found myself cutting my days shorter. With good weather I could head for a bar on the slopes, grab a glass of something refreshing and something tasty to eat, and sit in the sunshine in t-shirt and shorts while the others finished tiring themselves out. As time went on I seemed to get a bigger group for that than the hardcore racers did. All times are GMT The time now is PM. Mark Forums Read. Thread Tools. Appreciate 0 Tweet. Find More Posts by XAlp. Appreciate 2 PurpleTT Find More Posts by Gabreigns. Appreciate 6 teaston Find More Posts by HelmutVisor. Quote: Originally Posted by HelmutVisor Divorce expensive wife, buy what you want for car, go on holiday to the South of France and snort coke off high class hookers. Appreciate 1 HelmutVisor Find More Posts by teaston. Quote: Originally Posted by teaston You forces guys know how to have a good time! Appreciate 2 HelmutVisor Find More Posts by Quote: Originally Posted by Brigand Of course I can do a good 'lease' deal on a decent spec 'Escort' Lithuanian registered, body work is stunning. Appreciate 2 M40CCA Find More Posts by 73henny. Appreciate 1 Dyl Quote: Originally Posted by Brigand Check this out. Find More Posts by Dyl. Find More Posts by Smee. Find More Posts by TouringPleb. Quote: Originally Posted by TouringPleb Isn't putting your wife and kids first what you signed up for? Find More Posts by isleaiw1. Posting Rules.
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