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Once more into the fray… Normally for the JMHC programme I can be found poncing around various kitchens cooking up historic dishes and explaining the social history behind them. For the Xmas special, however, I have a somewhat different role. The historic food slots are still in the programme — the fab Ivan Day is thoroughly in his element — but I got sent begged to be allowed to go to Austria as a roving food reporter. Turns out I really like schnapps as well. We came off a stupidly early flight, landed, got in a van, and went straight up a mountain. The Swedish, German, Austrian and Slovakian ski teams were practicing on the slopes and the entire film crew got mad altitude sickness and spent the time drinking fat Coke and trying not to fall over. And the challenges of cooking at high altitude were significant — Norbert is a weather forecast junkie, because high and low pressure affects how dough and pastry behave, and water boils at lower temperatures at altitude anyway. Cake is everywhere, and it is very, very good cake. We made a sort of cheesecake right up in the top of the glacier itself. The cows are a breed specially adapted for mountain regions, with wide hooves, strong legs and the ability to put on fat from low grade pasture. Therese is a sort of enabler, and has masterminded a range of chocolates based on the products of the immediate region. However, with this exception, the chocolates produced under the Tiroler Edle brand are pretty much made using stuff the chocolatier can see from his window. The milk and cream for the ganaches comes from the aforementioned cows, and the flavourings are all natural and all very, very local indeed. They are pretty lovely. Hans-Joerg has a shop, as does Therese, and they sell a lot on the web. Chocolate really needs a bit of sugar to bring out the flavours. But my advice is to gorge on the filled bars, which are sublime. The Xmas specials, which include spiced apple, are among the best chocolate bars I have ever eaten. Oh, we ate a lot of wild cranberries as part of this. Weird little beasties. I prefer barberries. Day three started really well. They were only small servings — 2cl is the usual size — and in Austria schnapps is THE drink for welcoming friends, strangers, children, passers-by…. Unlike the flavoured booze I make at home, this is the real deal. The town itself has 50 official distilleries out of households , but my suspicion is that there were a lot more hidden behind closed doors. Unlike in the UK, where regulations brought in to curb the production of gin in the 18th century still affect would-be home distillers today, small scale distilling is pretty common in Austria. Wherever we went there were portable stills being hauled out of garages and set up ready to capture the fruits of the season. The high point was properly discovering schnapps. Up at 4am to go and nearly die as a giant milk float took off at great speed and with no warning from a half empty dairy in the dark. Heinz, who is a local dairy farmer, heads up a co-operative which took over the dairy a few years ago. At the time it was struggling, which meant that the livelihoods of the 25 or so high mountain farmers who depended on it as a market for their milk were at risk of going bust. The farms in question are too remote and too small to be able to supply big dairies and still make a profit. The solution for them, since the s when the system was installed, was to zip wire their milk down the mountain, directly to the dairy, which then processed it into butter and cheese. When Heinz and the co-op took over, they quickly concluded that the only way to remain profitable in the modern big agri-business-led food world, was to go upmarket. The dairy now has full organic certification, but it remains totally independent and unfunded by outside support. This is a scheme set up by the government specifically to promote regional food and encourage food and drink tourism. It struck me as a jolly good idea, and had clearly benefited many of the small scale artisan producers we encountered. But Heinz and the farmers decided to do it on their own and set their own rules, so that the dairy would benefit exactly the people it most needed to, while preserving a culinary and farming heritage which was close to dying out. A true co-operative, indeed. At the dairy, raw milk butter and amazing cheese is sold in a small shop, along with a few other products, and they have a roaring trade supplying walkers. It was the only shop in Austria not in a major tourist town that I saw open at a weekend, so no wonder. Other things I did: milked cows, fed goats, ate oodles of kletzenbrot, made butter not in costume for once, whoop — apart from the white coat and hat , drank more home-made schnapps. Day 5: Theresia Bacher, the rauchkuchl at Stulfelden airs 18th Dec. Words fail me. The views were stunning though, and the food incredible. During which I dragged the whole crew to Salzburg to pay homage to the Sound of Music. Dan, the lovely cameraman, bought socks. Florian, the equally lovely runner and driving maestro, bought shoes. Director Sophia and I ignored them both and hit the souvenir shops. Back when Britain was a Catholic country, the days of Advent leading up to Christmas were official fast days, upon which all animal products were to be avoided, and only fish and non-animal products eaten. Obviously, the same was true for the rest of Catholic Europe too, and, along with Rome, Austria was the heartland of Catholicism. The head of the country was the Holy Roman Emperor, after all. In medieval and early Tudor England, fish or fast days formed over half of the calendar year for an observant Catholic though, and fish cookery reached heights later generations could really only dream of. The range of fish, like the range of meat, that we ate was far larger than that consumed today. Carp was a definite favourite. He and his wife, who breeds Sheltand ponies, are impassioned advocates for all things pure, and he feeds the fish only the good stuff, ensures that the water is lovely, and, most importantly, says that the cold mountain climate helps keep the taste fresh and fishy. We ate it fried in butter. It was lush. Chris is an ex-rock god, turned sweet maker. The showmanship suits him. This whole day was brilliant fun, and I can see why people flock to stare in awe as they watch sugar and glycerine being turned into mini bits of rock. I was aware of the principles, of course, but the bit where pulled sugar is handmade into tiny, intricate edible art miniatures was less clear. It reminded me of glass-sculpting, with which Chris says there are, indeed, many similarities — working in intense heat, risk of major burns, the need to work rapidly, the translucent beauty of the material and the delicacy of the end product. One of the high points of the day was seeing a late 19th century catalogue of sweets and chocolates produced by the Heller company and meeting Herr Heller himself. Well into the 20th century sweets of this type were made by hand because there was simply no way to mechanise such an intricate and time-consuming process. Of course, all this means that the sweets cost more than the average mass-produced roll of artificially flavoured nastiness. But the demands of the public for cheap, sugary yuckiness, and lots of it, and a corresponding failure to appreciate artisan-led production, led to the demise of the hand-crafted sweets, and subsequent demise of Hellers, in the 60s. Bernhard is half soft-spoken academic, half action man. He used to work for the Austrian equivalent of DEFRA, until a nagging desire to recultivate saffron in the Wachau got the better of him. I adored Bernhard. He was passionate about the product, the history, and the culture surrounding saffron, but also switched-on to making it work as a 21st century business. His dream is to see saffron brought back to all the areas of Europe which once grew rich on the saffron trade — Essex and Cornwall being the English growth centres in the 15th century and thereabouts. We made a cake. The scent is incredible, the colour rich…. As usual, though, I found that cooked it was nowhere near as lovely. Mangalitzas are a Hungarian breed, valued above all else for the quality and quantity of their fat. And, as we all know, fat means flavour. They are also real lookers. They are often known as sheep-pigs for their coat is not mere bristles in the way of most British pigs, but actual real life, proper curly, fluffy fur. Now extinct, it was reputedly a very friendly and very tasty pig. There are early 20th century pictures of kids riding about on them, and they were a mass of white curly fluff. They were even exported to Austria-Hungary and cross bred with the Mangalitza to make a Lincolnitza, according the to ever-reliable Shire Guide to British Pigs. However, the Mangalitza is slightly different. The Lincs version, like most British pigs, was snub-snouted. The Mangalitza is far more like the wild boars from which pigs are eventually descended. It has a pointed face, and the males have decided tusks. The piglets are stripy, again like boars, though they come in red, white and black and are adorable. Christoph and Isabell have farmed them since they received a breeding pair as a wedding present I have friend envy , and are now world-renowned for their knowledge. They mainly sell livestock, and their own extensive knowledge. And OH! I ate it 12 ways, including raw fat, lardo, rare skirt, long cook pocket, tripe stew, spleen on toast and lard pastries. All of it was gorgeous especially the spleen toasts actually. All hail the Mangalitza for it is gooooood. NB: you can buy Mangalitza hams and the meat itself from various places in the UK — Google is your friend. I have just purchased a Xmas joint and sundry other items from Brynheulog Rare Breeds , and they were brilliant — even managing to fish out a spleen for me…. The last day. We were all, unsurprisingly, knackered, and the figs were all that kept us going. That and, it must be said, the schnapps. Figs make excellent schnapps. And geist an infused version of schnapps, I think. They also make excellent ice cream, jam, marmalade, vinegar, and the little ones are pretty stunning soaked in booze. Yes, yet more booze. The story behind the rather random sight of a Mediterranean fruit growing in sub-zero temperatures on the outskirts of Vienna is fairly simple. Ursula and Harald took over what amounts to a humongous allotment, or mini smallholding, on the outskirts of Vienna, so that they could grow fruit and veg. As with the carp and plums, they suggest that the extremes of temperature are apparently a big help. The trees are sown directly in the ground, no need to bind the roots, and are very productive. They prune them when they threaten to break through the roof, but otherwise largely leave them to it — and they have loads of varieties, in every colour from white to red and yellow. Hey ho, fig joy got me happily through Vienna airport, where the Sleazyjet gates are a sort of wasteland, inhabited only by Mozart chocolates, Toblerone and paprika crisps. Not a bacon sarnie in sight. The un-Christmassy Home Comforts is back with a brand new series on January 4th, and runs for 3 weeks. The link to the BBC homepage is here. Hi, Did you get the recipe for the Kletzenbrot please selbst wenn es auf Deutsch ist? I wanted to make it for Xmas. Danke schoen! Like Like. Pick one VERY high in fruit, substitute about a quarter of the plain for rye flour, and keep some dough back to wrap the bread in before proving and baking. Hi Annie. Please would you let me have fab glacier cake, can you also tell me which episode on James Martin Christmas program many many thanks. However,you can get specialist fish carving and serving tools which date from the late C19 to mid C20 on eBay and such like. I have a website on our travels too. Skip to content Once more into the fray… Normally for the JMHC programme I can be found poncing around various kitchens cooking up historic dishes and explaining the social history behind them. Up a glacier. Ski lifts. Three down…. Eating butter and fruit bread with THAT view. The smoky kitchen itself. Day 6: day off… During which I dragged the whole crew to Salzburg to pay homage to the Sound of Music. Day 7: Peter Paffrath, Peters Land , carp farm and general smallholding airs 9th Dec Back when Britain was a Catholic country, the days of Advent leading up to Christmas were official fast days, upon which all animal products were to be avoided, and only fish and non-animal products eaten. Well happy. Well muddy. Cake, train tracks and Bernhard and me. Fluffy, stripy piglets. Happy be thy digestive system. The opening shots are of Innsbruck Christmas market, by the way. Santa was VERY friendly. He gave me a gingerbread heart and showed me his stuffed chicken. The hills are aliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiive. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Please would you let me have fab glacier cake, can you also tell me which episode on James Martin Christmas program many many thanks Like Like. I have a website on our travels too Like Like. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Musings on food and history. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.
Hans-Joerg has a shop, as does Therese, and they sell a lot on the web. The biggest internet seller is a bar which is technically almost.
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Remember Me? Wife and kids LOVE and are mad for skiing. I find it OK. As a result I'm left thinking 'we've skinted ourselves again, no nice summer hols, no ACS springs etc etc for something I'm not hugely enjoying Any pearls of wisdom? Appreciate 0. I feel your pain.!! Get a cheap rental car take it out to a field packed with snow.. Yours truly Neighborhood Divorce Attorney. Appreciate 2. PurpleTT Divorce expensive wife, buy what you want for car, go on holiday to the South of France and snort coke off high class hookers. Appreciate 6. Originally Posted by HelmutVisor. Appreciate 1. HelmutVisor Originally Posted by teaston. You forces guys know how to have a good time! Lieutenant Colonel. Originally Posted by Brigand. Of course I can do a good 'lease' deal on a decent spec 'Escort' Lithuanian registered, body work is stunning. M40CCA Thanks chaps. Originally Posted by XAlp. Dyl Check this out. Pricing is decent. In Austria we offer the following Trainings. Brigadier General. Originally Posted by TouringPleb. Isn't putting your wife and kids first what you signed up for? You sound quite resentful. Lieutenant General. Not sure how old your kids are - when ours were teens they went skiing with school so we had summer holidays and they got best of both worlds. Wouldnt work for your wife but if she has girlfriends who ski maybe you could offer her a weekend without the kids whilst you looked after them But echo the comments about flying the nest - mine are now 24 and 23 and holidays with me are a thing of the past. I can indulge in whatever car I want now though. I would happily swap that for the time with the kids! Private First Class. When you talk of them flying the nest, are they old enough that you're not tied to school holidays? If possible, my advice would be to ditch Austria in prime season, lovely though it is, and go high and go late. As my knee started to go downhill I found myself cutting my days shorter. With good weather I could head for a bar on the slopes, grab a glass of something refreshing and something tasty to eat, and sit in the sunshine in t-shirt and shorts while the others finished tiring themselves out. As time went on I seemed to get a bigger group for that than the hardcore racers did. All times are GMT The time now is PM. Mark Forums Read. Thread Tools. Appreciate 0 Tweet. Find More Posts by XAlp. Appreciate 2 PurpleTT Find More Posts by Gabreigns. Appreciate 6 teaston Find More Posts by HelmutVisor. Quote: Originally Posted by HelmutVisor Divorce expensive wife, buy what you want for car, go on holiday to the South of France and snort coke off high class hookers. Appreciate 1 HelmutVisor Find More Posts by teaston. Quote: Originally Posted by teaston You forces guys know how to have a good time! Appreciate 2 HelmutVisor Find More Posts by Quote: Originally Posted by Brigand Of course I can do a good 'lease' deal on a decent spec 'Escort' Lithuanian registered, body work is stunning. Appreciate 2 M40CCA Find More Posts by 73henny. Appreciate 1 Dyl Quote: Originally Posted by Brigand Check this out. Find More Posts by Dyl. Find More Posts by Smee. Find More Posts by TouringPleb. Quote: Originally Posted by TouringPleb Isn't putting your wife and kids first what you signed up for? Find More Posts by isleaiw1. Posting Rules.
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