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On Launching Zaina this week: check out a video mash-up of our recent visit to Mole and our lodge construction site during the height of the rains in Northern Ghana, below! This past week we welcomed Michel Girardin, a safari and guide training expert from South Africa, who came to help us think through our safari and guide training program at the lodge. During his visit we were blocked from river crossings by heavy water, had to be rescued from the mud, but ended the week with a pleasant visit to the Mognori Eco-Village and a canoe ride on the Mole River. This past week, we also devoted a lot of time to learning about the flora and fauna surrounding our lodge site in Mole National Park. We visited salt licks where animals supplement their mineral intake, learned about the many local uses for certain trees species, like the shea tree, and also visited an early settlement near the lodge site where you can still find pottery shards and old grinding stones used by those who once claimed our ridge-line as home. Progress at the lodge continues. The swimming pool is ready to be tiled, the service buildings are roofed, and the first teak roofing structure is up. While we were onsite, our master thatcher arrived to begin the thatch roofing work, and our stone mason also started working on the stone facing for the tented rooms. Finally, our safari vehicles should be landing at the Tama port sometime this week! Our lodge management team will move up to Mole full time in the next few days to begin setting up our food program and design our menu. We have already started discussions with local communities on sourcing organic vegetables for the restaurant. Enjoy the video below to get a fresh view of life in Northern Ghana and setting up our lodge! Other posts will follow in the coming weeks as the restaurant plan and food program take shape. From Malian leather boxes, to local fabrics on upholstered chairs to low-flow toilets, there is lot going on! Feel free to comment on what you like…we look forward to your feedback. As you may have seen on social media, roofs are being raised at Zaina! Here are a few inspirations that we plan to include in the lodge:. Part of our local sourcing mission includes using materials from own backyard, literally. The stone combined with wall plastered in local design will give the lodge a unique feel. Finally, each room will include a beautiful armoire, maybe like this one,. We mark Founders Day in Ghana with a founders progress update. It has been amazing to watch this site take shape from a grassy hillside when we laid out plans for the lodge in August of , to where we are today. We have come a long way, but there is still much to be done. Roofline are taking shape, pathways being created, and finishing works like thatching, hanging tents, tiling, and stone facing are about to start. Stay tuned! Welcome to Zaina Lodge! This is a view of the entrance of the lodge site. When finished, there will be a traffic circle and a long walkway leading to the main building with access to the restaurant, bar, and infinity pool. You will notice the local column architecture coming to life in the coming months. One of our favorite entrance views, however, is the magnificent savannah stretching as far as the horizon. Upon arrival, you will be escorted towards either the east or west wing of individual tented chalets. As you can see, we have begun framing the roofs with teak poles. Now that we have cleared our Exclusive Tents from the Tema Port, they will be arriving at the site soon for installation and the interior design will officially begin! Locally sourced teak frames will make up a great deal of our roofing structures. As you can see, over the past few months we have continued to purchase these poles and then soak them in ant-termite baths before using them in our construction. Here we see the evolution of the Zaina kitchen to its current status, recently having its roof frame completed. Here you can see the initial site when we roped off the general building plots, and now where its stands having their foundations excavated. Finally, one of our favorite features of Zaina Lodge is the construction of two large waterholes. One by one, animals have investigated them and are now frequenting them daily. I first worked with Douglas in June when we collaborated on the first feasibility study to put a small lodge in Mole National Park. For the past 8 years, he has been patiently helping us plod through all the red tape and obstacles that come into the path of start-up company in Ghana. His big smile, hearty laugh, and generally affable nature have helped us work through many a challenge. Just back from his management training program in India, Doug will soon be turning his energy and spirit towards building our lodge team and welcoming guests as the Deputy Manager of our first lodge. A successful three months training program has come to an end. From my experience training and working in high-end hotels in India, I am confident that Zaina is on the same path to offer luxury accommodation that rivals the best in the business. This is my second time training internationally with Raxa. Last year I also went through management training in Cardamom County which ranged from purchasing to sales and marketing to housekeeping. I was welcomed by monsoon rain at its peak season in early June. Soon after arriving our team hit the ground running and completed a SWOT analysis for pre-opening of three Raxa locations: Spice Harbour hotel, 51 Restaurant, and Marari Peal beach hotel. This exposed me to all of the things that one must prepare for when you are about three months from opening a new hospitality property. It was a huge reality check seeing the transition from construction to management of opening operations at these locations. I am thankful for my great support system, accommodation, colleagues, and especially the delicious food I devoured throughout my time here. A key thought that I am carrying back home is to focus on visionary leadership and developing strong loyalty as the key to success. There are many places to see animals in Africa, many with far higher densities, populations, and ranges of animals. However, in my travels, Mole National Park leads as one of the most intimate elephant viewing experiences, mainly because of the long tradition of walking safaris in the park. Our lodge was designed with this experience in mind…not only can you watch elephants in the water hole from your balcony, the pool, or the restaurant, you can also join one of our guides on a walking safari to stroll amongst them. Enjoy, and we look forward to having you join us to see them all in person at Zaina Lodge! We re-join him in Alger, Algeria about to head out into the desert…. The Sahara is best approached with caution and respect. But if one can handle the logistical problems presented by lack of food, water, and fuel, then the desert becomes a rather peaceful respite from the turmoil of the larger world. Traveling due south through the lush oasis towns of Laghouat, Ghardaia, El Golea and Ain Salah, I was overwhelmed by the sharp contrast of the oases against the desert. They rose so suddenly against the horizon, without warning, that each time I wondered if it was not just another mirage. The first km from Alger were reasonable blacktop road, occasionally drifted by sand. Fuel was available about every km, and deep wells rarely over km apart. From Ain Salah to Tamanrasset, the road deteriorates rapidly, until it became little more than a winding track. Just as the road changed, so did the terrain. The smooth, flowing lines of the dunes and the flat plains of the northern Sahara gave way to sharp outcroppings of stone, massive mountains of small rock, and angular overhanging peaks of the Hoggar Plateau. Tamanrasset, a large oasis, situated on the southern edge of the Hoggar plateau, and from there to Arlit, Niger, was the most difficult section of the desert crossing. Trails, tire tracks in the sand and compass, were the sole source of navigation over this stretch of km. It took five days to cross those the distance from Tamanrasset to Arlit. I spent nine days in Tamanrasset joining up with 13 travel companions, and finalizing all the logistical and bureaucratic problems of 13 people traveling in the desert and crossing an international frontier. Finally we set off. I had packed most of my gear including fuel and water into the accompanying vehicles, in order to make my bike more manageable in the heavy sand. We stayed close together as a group, assisting each other through uncountable sand holes. Through our shared experiences we became a close-knit group. Our last day in the desert was a day to remember. We had entered into Niger, and the trail was much firmer; we were making good progress. Upon entering a dry river bed at speed, the rear portion of the bike slewing around like a crazy pendulum in the loose sand, the rear tire hit a submerged rock, and the back of the bike was thrown beyond the point of return. Realizing what was happening, I parted company with my bike in order to be clear from its mass. Rolling over the soft sand was somewhat forgiving, so I came out of the incident with only a badly bruised shoulder from my initial contact with the ground. Later in the same day a sandstorm blew up, which effectively stopped us in our tracks just 70 miles north of Arlit. We waited 5 hours for the storm to pass; not an experience I would choose to go through again. Sand and dust in every crevice and crack, filling nose, lungs, chewing it in my mouth. Arriving in Arlit that evening was a feeling beyond expression. Seeing civilization again, knowing you had conquered one of the most formidable natural obstacles on earth, drinking ice cold Coke, having a refreshing, cleansing shower, and eating a full hot African meal, all contributed to the sense of well-being. From Arlit, being still in the desert but on good roads, we changed our lifestyle, driving by night and sleeping and sightseeing by day. Arriving at Niamey, we stopped on a downtown street. I carelessly threw my leather document bag into one of the cars and went to purchase a drink. Someone nearby saw my careless action, and capitalized on the opportunity to relieve me of my precious documents. After reporting to the police, Canadian Embassy and the bank acting for American Express, I sat down and thought—what a wonderful place for this to happen. I had family contacts in Niamey from whom which I could ask for help while I sorted out my documents. Alain and Francoise had already left for Benin. I never met any of them again, but we shared unforgettable and vivid memories, both good and hard times. The following day, after changing my rear tire for a new one I had carried all the way from Morocco, I left for the Togo frontier. Passing through Togo, on an excellent black top road, I travelled through a small game park, arriving in Lome. I applied at the Ghanaian Embassy for a visa. Being informed I could pick it up on Monday, I groaned. That was four days away, and Accra was only km away, but there lay an international border in between. Making the best of the situation, I took a hotel room close to the beach and spent the interlude swimming and relaxing. By Monday morning I was able to pick up my passport with visa and passed the frontier into Ghana. I arrived in Accra on November 12 just a week short of 4 months after having left Edmonton. Thinking back on my trip, there are few things I would do differently. Traveling alone was good, because I was then required to be out-going and meet others. The open hospitality I encountered might not have been so generous to a larger group, and there was no possibility of personality conflicts that would have cropped up on such a long trip with a number of individuals. The many experiences and frustrations really tested and nurtured my patience, and the numerous hours of driving gave me lots of time; time which I spent thinking—about my youth, my current situation, my future. After this trip, challenges in my life have and always will be compared to the crucible of my trans-Sahara experiences. Because I had been a consultant before arriving in Ghana, he had already picked me for the job. John is the type of person who sees the world as it could be 20 years down the road. All of our work today is a result of that early vision. I accepted my first job in Africa while still completing an engineering diploma in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. Accepting the job in Ghana was the easy part, getting there was another matter altogether because I had decided to take the long road to Accra. It took 17, km and almost 4 months. London was the bustling metropolis I remembered, but with closer ties for me than before as my sister and brother-in-law were residing there. After clearing my bike through British customs at Heathrow and making certain key biking purchases, I departed on August 10 th for Accra. My sister thought my bike was heavily loaded leaving London, but looking back, that was the lightest it was ever going to be. Pannier bags across the seat, an internal frame backpack on top of that, with tent, sleeping bag, and light foam strapped on the rear rack. Arriving in Brussels, I located several West African embassies to obtain the necessary visas for my trip. Four days later with visas stamped in my passport, I was heading south across France, through luscious forests, golden plains, coarse cold Atlantic beaches, majestic cathedrals and churches, the Normandy beaches of D-day, rough rocky Cherbourg peninsula, heavily touristic St. Malo, and on to the flat untouched beauty of the Bordeaux region. I stayed well west of Paris and saw much of France during 10 days slowly riding south. Entering Spain, in the heart of Basque country near San Sebastian, I was struck with the magnificent splendor of the Atlantic coastal mountains as they dropped to the sea. Following the north Atlantic coast as far as Santander on secondary mountain roads, sometimes only one lane wide, was a hair-raising, but invigorating experience on the bike. Small fishing harbors seemed to cling to the mountainsides. Heading inland toward Valladolid and Zamora the terrain gradually became rolling plain, and the villages took on adobe architecture. On my first day in Portugal I had an unscheduled meeting with the road surface and bramble bushes. Sliding across the slick road surface on my back, I struck a roadside kilometer marker with my left thigh, and ended up suspended in a bramble thicket some ways down the mountainside. Fortunately, I was wearing full leathers, heavy gloves and motorcycle boots. I came out of the incident with a severe pressure burst on my left thigh from the impact with a road marker. Luckily, several vehicles stopped to assist me to a hospital about 20 km further down the mountain. After having my thigh sewn up I managed to get to a small hotel, and there I rested for five days, until I was able to hobble around. Those five days, though I was in much pain, were a beautiful experience of human compassion, as these rural people helped me in so many ways. The doctor who treated me would not accept payment, a nurse, who had worked in Canada for thirteen years, bridged the language barrier, and the family at the hotel did everything in their power to keep me comfortable. I never forgot those beautiful people and I returned to visit them 12 years later. On the road again, I had many minor mishaps over the next 10 days, as my left leg was too weak to support anything but my own weight. As I travelled south through the interior of Portugal, the countryside dotted with olive, fig and cork trees, interspersed by vineyards and small villages, the unadulterated beauty of this land enthralled me. Occasionally the narrow roads switched from blacktop to ancient cobblestones that transported me back to Roman times. After traversing the length of the Algarve on the southern coast of Portugal, I re-entered Spain and visited the cities of Seville, Cordoba, Granada and Malaga. Each of these cities bears striking architectural structures from the times of the Moors. The single most awe-inspiring sight was the Alhambra, situated in Granada. From Ceuta, I headed into Morocco, over the beautiful Rif Mountains, infamous worldwide for their hashish, and along the Atlantic through Rabat, finally stopping to rest in Casablanca. After a week in Casablanca, I moved south visiting the ancient Phoenician-Portuguese port city of El-Jadida; a city turning modern around the archaic fortifications built by the Portuguese. Heading inland toward Marrakech, the terrain quickly became dry and arid, just short of complete rock desert. Marrakech was a welcome respite from the barren surroundings, with its thousands of date palms. Entering Marrakech was like climbing into a three-dimensional movie—overwhelming, like no other city I had seen. Through the reddish-pink streets and alleys streamed an endless parade of Berber tribespeople—Blue people from the Sahara, Arab artisans, Western tourists, troops of merchants, and performers from south of the Sahara. A caravan city for centuries, Marrakech is accustomed to strangers and remains a haven for wanderers. The ancient Medina in each Moroccan town is an experience, but Marrakech tops the list, along with that of Fez. The narrow, crowded lanes of the Medina pulse under the throbbing sun. In the evening the Medina echoed with the wailing of the Imam calling for prayers. A cacophonic circus featuring musicians, singers, acrobats, dancers, folk dentists, medicine men, gamblers, peddlers, snake charmers, along with the usual hustlers, thieves and hash vendors, was a phenomenal experience. The swimming was refreshing and good exercise for my still aching left thigh, which by now was dark blue and purple from knee to hip, stitches having been removed with my trusty Swiss Army knife. The lush greenery of the northern Atlas Mountains around Azrou, Ifrane and Fez was in sharp contrast to the desert conditions surrounding Marrakech, just km to the south. Once ready I headed for Alger, the capital of Algeria, on the Mediterranean coast. No visit to Ghana is complete without a visit to the market. My personal favorite of the markets in Northern Ghana is sipping pito, a local beer brewed from millet, with friends, but there are lots of other things to see and explore as well. Happy Market Day! Some villages in Northern Ghana come together every three days or hold their shopping extravaganzas on Friday, but the best market on the way to Zaina is in the town of Damongo, which holds their market every Saturday. It is also the hometown of the current president, John Dramani Mahama. The Damongo market can be found a few minutes drive off the main road in town and runs from around 7am until sunset, or earlier if everything has been sold. A one-stop-shop, you can buy almost anything here. From fresh fruit pineapple, mango, apples, bananas to hundreds of different fabrics both Ghanaian prints as well as some from Burkina Faso , to plastic buckets, to toothpaste…you can get it all! When you arrive, you will quickly become part of the crowd of buyers and sellers. Watch your step, as many of the merchants lay down cloth or plastic and artfully stack and display their items on the dirt ground. The smell of fried food and, of course, lots of pepe floats around the dry, dusty air. This delicious sweet bread, resembling a version of a donut, can be bought from a cart across from a woman pounding fufu. Most sellers return to the same spot every week so regulars know exactly where to find them. Like most transactions in Ghana, bartering is more than encouraged; it is expected. If there are ever conflicts between merchants and sellers, it is the role of the Market Chief to help with mediation and resolution. Markets in Ghana are an important social gathering, and Damongo is no exception. It is a wonderful occasion for the community to come together every week. New mothers dress up in their favorite African wear and strap their newborn babies to their backs, showing off their growing family. Both men and women can be found frequenting the pito spots on the far side of the market, seeing friends and catching up on the latest gossip. Many of the communities that hold their markets on a 3-day cycle do so based on the pito-brewing schedule. Sitting on wooden benches beneath metal roofs and surrounded by mud walls, friends take a break from the hot sun and relax, sipping refreshing pito out of dried calabash. At Zaina, we plan to source locally as much as possible , just like most Ghanaians do from their local markets. Planning our menu will be influenced on the season and availability of some produce. We hope that when you visit us, you will enjoy the fresh and innovative offerings we create. And, if you find yourself with us on a Saturday, we can help arrange a visit to the market, so you can experience the market yourself and maybe even pick out some items by hand! It has been my pleasure to introduce others to Northern Ghana over the years, both Ghanaian and non-Ghanaian. Zaina Lodge will provide an even greater platform to share Mole National Park and other parts of Northern Ghana with those who have yet to discover this wonderful part of the country. When I decided to pursue an internationally based internship in the middle of my MBA studies, I had no expectation I could become part of such a wonderful company as Zaina. I will be frank: not everything this summer has been easy. Living in a new culture for three months takes significant adjustments. On the drive west from Tamale to Mole National Park, I sat next to Douglas Deputy Lodge Manger and listened to him tell stories about Ghana as the tires kicked up clouds of dust behind us. We passed mud huts with thatched roofs, herds of goats and cows, and many men and women carrying firewood on their heads. Arriving on the construction site, I immediately was drawn to the view. Andy CEO had been showing me photos for months, and we spent hours on Skype with him describing the site and plans, but nothing prepared me for the magic of the Zaina site. Stepping on the dirt platform that will later become the infinity pool deck, I gazed, speechless, across the green savannah. Like looking out to sea, the view went on for miles and miles. Now far away from the busy bustle of smokey Accra, I took in a deep breath of fresh air that smelled sweetly of ferns and grasses that grew tall, hugging the hillside. To top off my first trip to Zaina, a few nights later we camped out on a tent platform under the stars. It is thrilling to watch this first Zaina lodge come to life. I know that everyone who visits this hotel will instantly understand why we have spent so much effort on this project. Bringing more people to Mole National Park will not only offer them the experience of a lifetime, but will also help to ensure that this place will be conserved for generations to come. Reliable Internet and electricity have been some of my biggest challenges. It has been a joy to share this company with interested parties both online as well as in conversations and meetings around the country. Zaina is a true manifestation of this mission, and it has been deeply rewarding to contribute to its development. I have seen so much positive progress this summer. The once bumpy drive from Tamale to Zaina is much smoother now that almost the entire road is paved. Solar panels have gone up and teak roof frames are being built. I have also grown both personally and professionally during my time here. Living and working in a foreign country has been exhilarating and challenging. From my morning runs through the Achimota neighborhood to learning to commute on tro-tros, life here keeps me on my toes. I have been lucky enough to travel throughout much of Ghana, from Zaina in Mole National Park to the coast by Axim to the waterfalls in Volta. The people of Ghana have taught me patience and gratitude on a scale I never thought possible. I am excited to continue to be a part of this growing company. Stay tuned for many more Launching Zaina blogs, Tweets , and Facebook posts. The summer has flown by. Over the past few months one of our summer interns, Emily Gousen, a friend and former WWF colleague of mine, has been working diligently on the Zaina Lodge interpretation plan. From safari programs to learning about the local communities in and around Mole National Park, Emily has added value to the overall experience our guests will enjoy once we open later this year. Before she takes off, we asked her to share some of her favorite experiences during her visits to the park and surrounding communities. Sourcing locally has been an important driver throughout the construction process and Zaina has been delighted to partner with local communities whenever possible. One of my favorite experiences this summer was touring the unique Mognori EcoVillage, situated just 18km from Zaina Lodge. I had only been in Ghana for a few weeks the first time I visited this remote village and was completely blown away by the friendly atmosphere, sense of community, and sustainable manner in which they lived off the land. When Mole received formal National Park Status from the Ghanaian government back in , the few remaining inhabitants were resettled just outside the park. In order to better address the interests of these communities, the Wildlife Division implemented an innovative Collaborative Management Policy to encourage open dialogue between surrounding communities and park management. From this collaboration came the idea of a Community Resource Management Area, or CREMA , which allows more resources and flexibility for the villagers to manage the natural resources in and around the Park. Mole National Park was one of the pilot areas for this new idea, and lying only 15km from the Park Entrance, Mognori was a natural place to put this idea into practice. Community-based ecotourism has proven to be a highly successful strategy for promoting sustainable livelihoods in Ghana. The Mognori Eco-Tourism Committee, made up of the Village Chief and three democratically chosen men and three women, has done a wonderful job creating opportunities for visitors to experience the daily activities of their village. In addition to artisanal thatch weaving, the Mognori community produces shea butter, runs a river safari operation, offers home stays, and even organizes traditional dance and drumming performances. After reading about it in the Bradt: Ghana guidebook, I knew that I had to visit this place. When I first arrived at the village, I was greeted by a small group of girls jumping with excitement to show me around. I was struck by the traditional adobe-style houses and the abundance of goats, sheep, chickens, and cows all peacefully coexisting in the pockets of green space throughout the community. My guide was a friendly young man who spoke both English and their native language, Gonja. He informed me that my first order of business, as per tradition in this part of the country, was to meet the village Chief. Once hands were shook and introductions were made, I accompanied a few of the village elders down to the river for a trip in an ancient wooden boat down the Mole River. It was awesome. My guide informed me that while the children fill their buckets much closer to the village, the women prefer to walk a little farther in order to have time to gossip, laugh and share stories in private. The sun was setting as we arrived back at the village. This light provides school children a place to study and do their schoolwork in the evenings, as the sun sets in Ghana around 6pm year round. He passed around each bag of seeds, dried leaves, tree bark, and ground plants for us to see and smell. These recipes, so to speak, have been handed down for generations. As his four young sons played around him, I had the strong feeling that they will continue down the family tree. The story of Mognori EcoVillage is one that Zaina is proud to share. The members of this remote village grouped together, identified their unique traditions and resources, and organized a system in which outsiders can come in and learn about all the things that make their community special. Additionally, they are able to generate a source of income that feeds back into programs that benefit the collective whole. Zaina Lodge is excited partner with Mognori in numerous ways. From sourcing thatch for our tent roofs, to bringing traditional dance and drumming performances to Zaina Lodge, we hope our guests are able to experience the strong sense of community present both inside and outside Mole National Park. Skip to content On Launching Zaina this week: check out a video mash-up of our recent visit to Mole and our lodge construction site during the height of the rains in Northern Ghana, below! Here are a few inspirations that we plan to include in the lodge: A twist on the mini-fridge, we will offer a cooler box inside a Malian leather trunk like this one in each chalet room. Pack with ice and cold drinks, this will help to refresh guests in their rooms, and while out on a game drive. As you may have noticed on the Damongo market blog post a few weeks ago, Ghanaian fabrics are beautiful and used for many purposes. We plan to incorporate fabrics from across Northern Ghana and the region Mali, Burkna, etc into our interior design in many ways, one of which being upholstering chairs! Along with our showers, we are choosing low-flow toilets to help reduce our onsite water usage. Indian Independence Day! John Mason riding across the Sahara. Mason The Sahara is best approached with caution and respect. The Hoggar plateau in southern Algeria. Desert sandstorm rolling in. Beach in Togo. John Mason riding his motorbike to Accra. Mason I accepted my first job in Africa while still completing an engineering diploma in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. A fishing village near San Sebastian. The breathtaking Alhambra palace. Shops in Marrakech. In Alger, I sought visa for Niger and on October 1 st my journey across the Sahara began… …to be continued next week! A pito spot at the Damongo market. Beautiful fabrics are never in short supply at a Ghanaian market. Welcome sign at Mole National Park. My internship orientation included a safari in Mole National Park with Douglas, Andy, and one of my favorite park rangers, Isa. With the Launching Zaina team! Emily camping at the Zaina site in July. Mognori EcoVillage community. We saw an amazing range of birds and aquatic plants during the Mognori river safari. Kwame, the Mognori herbalist. The solar lamp at the center of the village. Blog at WordPress. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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