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Slept in a bit, and had one final walk around the town before getting ready to head to the airport. It was maybe a 90 second walk from my hotel to the terminal at Funafuti…the terminal which is huge:. Went to the airport at to check-in three hours before the flight as recommend, which was maybe a 90 second walk…if that. I was ticked off the list of passengers they had, they checked my bag, and I got to choose my seat from one of those sticker seatmaps. Then, I was asked to complete immigration…which took about 5 seconds. After immigration…we were free to go. They offered 11a checkout for an extra 20 Australian dollars, and I was sold. Small price to pay for an hour of air conditioning! Finally at 11, I walked over to the Hotel Filomena, which is right next to the terminal, and does a brisk business on its patio selling drinks to waiting passengers. Right beyond the patio fence, you see the runway:. Plane arrived right on time, and we boarded about 20 minutes before scheduled takeoff. Quick boarding, and doors were closed 10 minutes early. Every seat was taken today, except the one next to me! Everything was going right this trip. View just after takeoff of Funafuti Atoll. Landed in Suva right on time, and had a nearly three hour wait for my connection to Nadi. I decided since the Tuvalu jinx was now broken to hit the cafe in the Suva airport, and enjoy a slice of their now-famous chocolate cake. It was just as tasty as I remembered! Nothing to say — very uneventful 30 minute flight. I have to say, my experience was night and day better compared to my previous attempt 18 months before, and it looks like Fiji Airways, formerly aka Air Hot Mess, might actually be improving! The Sheraton, however, was a mess. Two hours after check-in, they finally agreed the AC would never work and reluctantly agreed to let me move rooms. The second room was perfect, and I have no idea why they were so reluctant. Overall, this stay really left me with a sour taste in my mouth. There was no warmth or desire to help from the employees, and they acted as if they were being annoyed when you asked for things. To top it off, when I checked out it took 10 minutes of arguing about the rate despite me having a printed confirmation. Overall, while Fiji Airways seems to be well on the road to improvement the Sheraton is definitely going the other direction. Next time, I would definitely look elsewhere on Denarau. So, this was it. The whole reason for this trip — my second attempt at making it to Tuvalu. I had arranged a cab with the Sheraton the night before, and of course when I got to the front desk to check out at 6am it was nowhere to be found. They did manage to scare one up around , however, and I was still at the airport nearly an hour before the flight. The Fiji Airways domestic terminal in Nadi is extremely small, so arriving 45 minutes before the flight is absolutely no problem at all — as long as nothing goes wrong! I had to ask really nicely and point out that I had booked business class on the onwards flight, and they reluctantly ended up giving me 1A. Small bottle of water handed out to all passengers right before takeoff, and not much else to say for the 25 minute flight. I was the only one in the eight seats up front, and got to chat with the flight attendant a bit. That was good news, since if you get on the plane out of Nadi apparently you know your plane has arrived to leave for Tuvalu too! Met the same agent that had worked there last time I tried this, and sure assured me the flight was just fine, and would be on time today. I was less optimistic given past performance, but hey, at least the plane and crew were there…. Small bit of drama, however. Priority was given to business class and Tuvaluans returning home, so I have no idea how they chose which 18 would not be able to go. Despite that, boarding was on time, the door closed 10 minutes before departure time, and soon we were taxiing for takeoff! About 20 seats empty in coach and we were only four of eight in business, meaning I had an empty seat next to me. Breakfast was offered — french toast or omelette. Flight time was nearly 2. Of course deplaning was via the plane stairs seriously, jetways in a country that only gets two flights a week? One room airport building, where agents were stamping passports on a card table:. There was a van waiting from my hotel, the Hotel Vaiaku Lagi, said to really be the only hotel of any standards at all in Tuvalu — with a whole 16 rooms. More on that when I leave…checked in, was assured I was as requested when I booked given the room with the absolute best air conditioning out of the Super fancy 1. It was clean, moderately comfortable, and the AC was arctic. Overall, I was pleased. I checked out a couple of the guesthouses in town, and they were pretty grim. No way they even qualify as 0. By the time I checked in, it was just after noon, and when I asked the desk agent for suggestions on places to see she laughed at me. I joined the other 15 guests in the hotel restaurant, where there were three lunch options: chicken chow mein, stir fried prawns, or ham and cheese sandwich. I decided the sandwich was safest, but ham apparently means Spam! Mmmm grilled spam and cheese:. As it started to get reasonably cooler, I headed out to Tuvalu Telecom to buy a wifi access card. Hooray for high-quality Chinese manufacturing. Eventually it worked, and it was just fast enough to read some emails and check facebook…kinda. I decided then to head for a walk. Then, I headed over to the airport runway, which is the hub of social activity for about an hour before sunset. Back to the hotel, and again for dinner there were three choices. I went for the grilled tuna steak, and it was actually phenomenal…and hey, frozen veggies are better than none at all! Slept in a little bit, and headed out for a morning walk before it got too hot again. A block from my hotel, and next to the airport, was the central government building. Next stop was the post office to buy stamps. Yes, they were able to sell them, but seemed completely uninterested in doing any work. They had lots of commemorative ones, as well as post cards, so I bought some to send to family and friends. Hundreds of commemorative stamps on sale all at face value. Some of the more interesting ones:. Just down the street was the Tuvalu National Library and Archives. Please take off your flip flops when entering:. Went back to my hotel and wrote postcards, then a walk back to the post office to mail them. We will see if they ever arrive! Back to the hotel for lunch and Pacific Exercise. All the meals were between six and eight US dollars plus drinks, so extremely cheap, and reasonably large portions. Pacific Exercise takes lots of energy! After exercising aka reading in a hammock and napping I went for another walk. Tuvalu Telecom, where you go to buy wifi cards:. Then on the other side of the runway, I found the Tuvalu Sports Ground, where a rugby game was in progress:. On the way back to the hotel, I passed the Development Bank of Tuvalu. Maybe I should apply for a job…. With that, it was time to head to bed and pray my plane would arrive in the morning to take me home. Tuvalu was pretty much exactly what I expected, maybe even a slight bit smaller. It was actually quite nice to have the downtime without the pressure of having to be go go go and see things. Two days was the perfect amount of time in Tuvalu — I think the only other option would be two or more weeks so you could try and get a boat to some of the outer islands where there are no hotels and spend some time seeing really authentic rural life and villages. Now, will the plane come back…. That was combined with planning the end of my plans to visit every country, which was really two parts logistically: first, how to get to the remaining countries and when, and secondly beginning to organize the final country party for family and friends. I knew the hardest of the countries remaining would be Tuvalu, and for that reason knew that when time allowed it was the one to finish first. Flights to Tuvalu only go three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. I decided it was best to do at the beginning of my trip, because if anything went wrong I would have the rest of the trip to keep trying. So, the plan was set. Fly from Fiji to Tuvalu on a Tuesday, inshallah, and return on Thursday. If something went wrong, I would try Thursday, return Saturday. With those plans, I planned to arrive in Fiji on a Sunday to give a cushion on the front side and fly out on a Sunday — leaving me two real chances to get to Tuvalu. If those plans went tits up, I had a full extra week on the trip that I could start changing. However, should things go right, what should I do with Sunday to Sunday the second week? Of course, just over a week before the trip began Fiji Airways eliminated the Saturday flight to Tuvalu — so there was no reason to stick around until Sunday. I replanned the back-end of Tuvalu, and planned to leave Fiji on Friday — giving me two extra days. I was really hoping this time Tuvalu would go much smoother, so that I could take all these awesome flights I had planned. The day of the trip finally dawned, and I worked a half day before a leisurely trip to DCA for the initial flight. Short stop by the Admirals Club for some water and snacks:. Pre-departure beverages were offered and I took a glass of water. Shortly before departure, the seat beside me was still empty, and someone was beckoned up from economy as a last-minute upgrade. We ended up chatting a bit, and it turned out to be someone I had chatted with online before in a frequent flier group. What are the odds! Choice for lunch was a cold bbq chicken salad or lentil chili. Since this was vacation — and I left my work laptop at home to prove it, I even took the chocolate chip cookie when offered for dessert. It went perfectly with another glass of red:. Other than that, perfectly boring flight and we arrived a few minutes early. I had just over an hour connection in Miami, and fortunately not only were my gates only a one minute walk apart but they were separated by the AmEx Centurion Lounge! Just enough time to stop in for a glass…or two…of Veuve…. The flight had been showing sold out in first for weeks, so I had no hope of my upgrade clearing. Then, a full 20 minutes before departure, I noticed on the app my upgrade had supposedly cleared. This trip was off to a fantastic start! This is where things got disappointing. Three wine choices were on offer tonight, and I went with the Malbec which was reasonably good…and another serving of mixed nuts:. I asked for the balsamic with the salad, but the flight attendant insisted on bringing me a side of the Fuji apple dressing as well. He was absolutely correct, and it was a great combo…one of the better in-flight salads I can remember:. The chicken was…well…chicken, and rather unmemorable as was the completely flavourless polenta. Honestly, the broccoli was the best part of the main:. At that point…I passed out for a nearly three hour in-flight nap thanks to the comfy lie flat seats. I woke up to find not one but TWO chocolate chip cookies waiting for me. Not wanting to be rude, I of course had a few nibbles:. A bit nicer than an Admirals Club, but far from impressive or of international airline standard. Thanks TSA! I stopped in the Fiji Airways lounge for 5 minutes just to check it out, and it was rather crowded and unremarkable. The coolest part is it had an outside balcony that you could sit on which overlooked the terminal. There were only two empty seats in business tonight, and I had the good fortune to have the seat next to me empty tonight. Sparkling wine, warm towels, and amenity kits were offered. The amenity kids were rather sad, and a cool towel would have been nice, but overall not bad:. The starter was odd and looked and smelled like it had been sitting around a while, so I gave it a pass. Now THAT is a substantial piece of beef on the salad. Yes, it was way overcooked for my taste, but extremely nicely spiced with a pepper rub. Plus, a whole bowl of cheese. With that, I passed out for a relatively solid eight hours of sleep. Yes, the seat was sloped lie flat, but I managed to sleep pretty decently despite that. Fortunately, I woke up about 75 minutes out of Nadi with just enough time for breakfast. Quite the impressive breakfast, and the raisin bran and omelette were exactly what sounded good to me:. With that said, I was in Nadi right on time and ready to unwind for 48 hours before heading to Tuvalu. Overall, Fiji Airways did a nice job of redeeming themselves in my eyes. My expectations were relatively low, and thus exceeded on this flight. I had another longhaul Fiji A flight coming up on this trip to Sydney, and now I was looking forward to it. Overall, a solid performance. Long time readers of my trip reports will remember the last time I tried to go to Tuvalu. I took a four week trip intended to hit all the little island countries in the South Pacific, and due to flight schedules there was little room for error. Everything was going well, until I tried to go to Tuvalu. Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. That means you have to spend two, sometimes three days there. They canceled the flight to FUN. I tried to go again two days later, still no FUN for me. I gave up, and had to admit defeat, and carry on to Samoa. Oh, and Fiji Airways in their wisdom delayed that flight by 16 hours. The only good thing I can say about Fiji Airways is that they give you a food voucher when they cancel your flight…and with it you can buy delicious chocolate cake at the one shop in Suva airport. Mmmm the cake. Looking forward to having that again, but paying for it myself. I only have 5 countries left to visit, and Tuvalu is the hardest, so gotta get it done! See, getting to Tuvalu should be easy. I even built in a two day buffer in Fiji on the way there in case I get delayed on the way:. Very straightforward. Hop down to Miami on an American , and then a new ER in business class. We will assume that will be delayed…maybe by a whole day…but, hey, buffer. Getting back? Well, the quick and easy way would have been to come back the way I came, and hey, depending how long it takes me to get to Tuvalu I might just do that. But see, if all goes well, two things have conspired against that plan. First, American recently devalued miles in a major way, so I cashed some in for high-value rewards…. All new experiences for me! So, how did I fit this all together? I hear one of the more unique experiences the Etihad Spa offers in Abu Dhabi is a shave…I wonder if I can get a whole head shave from the guy…. This is to confirm receipt of your email which has been passed on to our Guest Relations team for handling. Rest assured that one of our Guest Relations Officers will respond to you within the next 21 days. Please allow us up to 60 days to resolve any refund requests. This response serves as an acknowledgement to your feedback and we will provide you with a substantive response within 60days. So, Vanuatu. I was there nearly ten years ago, and had checked that one off the country visiting list. But, yet, somehow this blog entry features Vanuatu. About two weeks before the trip started, I called Fiji Airways to enquire about making a change to my reservation. I had originally booked Nadi-Suva-Tuvalu on a Tuesday which went tits up as you saw in previous posts and the Tuvalu-Suva on a Thursday, followed by Suva-Nadi on Friday morning so I could spend a night checking out Suva. Little did I know at the time all the drama that would revolve around Tuvalu. Oh yes, after Fiji you are scheduled to fly to Honiara, Solomon Islands. We no longer operate that flight due to a trade dispute with the Solomon Islands. This was two weeks before the trip started, and I was going to have to completely replan the middle two weeks of the trip. It took me about two days to reconfigure things, then, I had to call Expedia to book. Needless to say, I will never book with Expedia again. It took a total of 24 calls to Expedia, over 11 hours of total call time. I also spoke to a woman with an Indian accent who claimed her name was Bubbles. Bubbles was helpful, until she hung up on me. This went on and on. One unhelpful chap, after nearly 90 minutes on the phone told me if I wanted a refund, it was all or nothing. The full ticket with all my Fiji segments. I called back to do this…no, you can only cancel the flight which is no longer operating. Escalate, escalate, get Tier 3 report. Two days later, she calls back. I figured at least being booked directly with Fiji Airways, if something further went wrong little did I know how much would go wrong with Fiji Airways they would be empowered to touch the reservation. Oh, one little detail I forgot earlier. When the Tuvalu mess finally got canned, I asked about the duty free which customs was holding. We will arrange with customs to transport it in secure transport to the customs facility at Nadi where you can pick it up inside security before you head to Vanuatu. So, check-in for my flight. Fiji Airways check-in is pleasant, she even waives the 4 kilos of overweight baggage. Security, passport check, and then ask the guy at the customs desk about the wine. He seems surprised. Well, maybe possible. But no, no, that would never happen. After security. The customs agent is amused. He wants to solve this. Back in Fiji. No matter. Mr Sharma is on a mission. Look what we got:. But we have a problem. Oh, Mr Sharma knows who you can trust. Airline employees can go through security with any liquids they want. He finds a Fiji Airways agent outside security. Orders them to carry this through security for him. Sharma escorts me back out of Fiji, since I technically never left. Yup, Fiji Airways agent with the Duty Free. It was a beautiful example of nonsensical bureaucratic security theatre. Back to the flight. Looks like some Russian oil billionaire was either relaxing in Fiji, or buying up a large part of Fiji. Hard to tell which. We even got a snack and complimentary drinks. Had a can of Fiji Bitter, but the chicken sandwich smelled a bit off. Something was up. I went to corner the flight attendants. What country is that? You must be kidding me…yay for more Fiji Airways drama. In thousands of flights only my third ever in flight diversion…figures it would be Fiji Airways. The rest of the passengers appear completely unsurprised. Dear stupid diplomats, get your shit sorted. We sat on the plane for nearly an hour, slowly broiling in the tropical sun, until they finally let us off and into a waiting room. Some planes waiting around at Santo:. Flight was bumpy, very bumpy, but not terribly eventful. If I was going to spend two nights there, at least I was going to get some diving in! Up nice and early once again, for what was becoming the all-too-familiar routine of flying to Suva in order to catch the flight to Funafuti. No drama with the taxi, and left my bags in the room at the Sheraton since it was just going to be a day trip. Got to Nadi, and chatted with the counter agent. Yes, he had my reservation, and yes, I was on the flight to Funafuti. Another packed flight to Suva, but right on time, and actually arrived a few minutes before schedule. No checked bags, so went straight out into arrivals and found the Air Fiji check-in desk to check in for the continuation to Funafuti. The flight has been delayed until 4pm today. They combined both flights onto a bigger ATR and it will be going at 4pm this afternoon. On top of assurances there would be two flights, on top of things seeming fine at check-in in Nadi, they had made this decision the night before. So many opportunities to let me know. But no, they had to fly me back to Suva first, and then tell me. Well, it looked like I would have a 60 minute turnaround in Funafuti anyways, and the airport is so small that there was a good chance I could get my passport stamp, leave the airport for 15 minutes and see a bit of the town, then turn right around. The other good news, is the ATR would then come back and do the last Suva-Nadi flight late at night, so I could even get back to Nadi around midnight. Well, while you wait eight hours for your flight, may we provide you the Suva Special Delayed Passenger meal of chocolate cake and Diet Coke? After an hour of sitting and eating cake, decided to head up to the counter. With an 8 hour delay I figured they might spring for a hotel or something for me to rest at for a few hours. Got to the counter, where a group of Chinese tourists were entertaining themselves by stepping on the scale and seeing who weight more than their baggage. They were hugely entertained by this for some reason. Got to the counter to ask about a hotel. The ATR pilots will not be rested enough, so will not be flying back to Nadi tonight. It summed up my feelings towards Fiji Airways perfectly at this point:. Needless to say, I cut my losses. I decided to say to hell with it, and head back to Nadi after being promised despite two Nadi-Suva roundtrips I would get a full refund. I paged through the Fiji Airways magazine. The President of Fiji Link had a very nice article about how their new ATR would improve things including reliability. Shaenaz will be getting a letter from me, telling me her staff are crazy friendly and do their best to help despite being given nothing to work with. They also need a huge course in communication. Back to Nadi, where I went straight to the Fiji Airways ticketing office, and after about 30 minutes they had processed a full refund. I mean, Fiji Airways always keeps its promises so I have absolutely no doubt things will be just peachy…. Decided to cab it straight from the airport to Denarau Port, and grab lunch. At least I had a relaxing afternoon, and weather was great:. Lunch was followed up by pool time, and another gorgeous Fiji sunset. Another unexpected bonus was another dinner in Fiji. The incredibly friendly waitress at Chime Bar at the Sheraton shared with me a great Fijian restaurant at the Port, so I headed to Nandina Fijian to give it a try for dinner. Starter of Kokoda, a kind of FIjian ceviche of raw fish in coconut broth. It was absolutely amazing:. Main course of octopus in a coconut curry broth. Absolutely amazing, with huge amounts of octopus:. Trio of deserts, bananas in fijian rum, a chocolate cake, and vanilla ice cream. How could you go wrong! Up early the next morning to catch the flight to Vanuatu. Wait, Vanuatu? Why am I going to Vanuatu? A few weeks ago when I booked this ticket, there were two flights from Nadi to Suva that would connect to the Funafuti flight. One left at and the other left at The night before, when I was on the Bula Bus headed to dinner, my phone rang. I checked the message shortly after, and guess who? Fiji Airways. Seems my flight had been retimed from to Um, my flight leaves at ? I opted to get to the airport at in time for the just in case. Got to check-in, and my flight, flight 3 was nowhere to be found on the departure monitors. However, flight 7, the departure was there, but with a time of They only could check me in to Suva, but assured me the airport was small and I would have plenty of time to check in for my flight to Funafuti. Ok, fair enough. We boarded via a walk to the plane finally at , and ended up taking off at for an arrival. Flight time was a grand total of 22 minutes in the air, but due to clouds there was nothing to see. A small moist towel and bottle of water was passed out to each passenger on the completely full flight, and newspapers were offered as well. Rather impressive for just 22 minutes! Waited about 10 minutes for my bag to come onto the baggage belt, but managed to check in by for my flight. Uh, ok. It would be the same plane that just brought us from Nadi, but it had to do another trip back to Nadi first. With over two hours to kill now, and having not had breakfast, I went to the one cafe in the check-in area to get something to eat. About they called everyone over the intercom, and told us to proceed through immigration and security. Shortly after that, we saw the plan arrive outside at about and looked like we might actually get out of there by or so. Make note of this detail, it will come back…. The plane was still sitting there, as were we. At 11, an agent came over the intercom. Around , we saw the crew get off the plane, get their bags, head towards the waiting area…see the angry mob, and then head another direction. We all agreed that the departure of the crew was likely not a good sign. Ugh, ok. Shortly after noon, the Fiji Airways agent walked into the departures lounge and announced she was sorry for the delay. They will be providing drinks and snacks shortly. One rather surley Australian guy demanded beer. About 10 minutes later, she came back. But unfortunately, once they arrive, you will need to go back through immigration. The flight is being canceled. Um, ok. Maybe even tomorrow, but certainly in two days. No clue what time, but after you go through immigration and security they will take you to a hotel for the next couple of days. Several of the Tuvaluans on the flight actually cheered. I guess two days in Fiji with your hotel and meals paid was an unexpected bonus for them. We were informed that due to our duty free remember those two bottles of wine? I figured there would be a giant customs party that night. Checked my wine, back through immigration to have my departure stamp canceled, and to the check-in counter to see about getting that flight back to Nadi. They resisted. I convinced them that me taking up an empty seat would cost Fiji Airways less than two nights hotel plus meals. They finally agreed. They promised they would e-mail or call me with the new flight time. I wrote down my e-mail and phone number. I told her if they did end up operating two flights that Thursday, and they were reasonably spaced out, I would go to Tuvalu for 4 or 5 hours, have lunch, then come right back. She thought this was crazy, but certainly doable. At least I got my bag back. I modified the bag tag accordingly:. I was provided with a food voucher for the airport snack shop while I waited for my flight back to Nadi. Best thing about Fiji Airways, when they cancel your flight you get cake. Chocolate cake. Delicious chocolate cake! Wow things were looking up, a brand new plane which had only been delivered to Fiji Airways just a month prior. Bags showed up in just a couple minutes, and I decided to head to the Fiji Airways reservations office to make sure they understand my plans. Yes yes, they did. The agent in Nadi even called Suva, they promised to get in touch with me with the new details. Key words:. You will get to spend a few hours in Tuvalu. We will make sure it happens. So…as you may recall, I have a big trip coming up to the South Pacific. In order to accommodate diving plans, I called Expedia today to change a Fiji Airways flight. I should mention that hold time was 2 minutes. That is, until they hung up on me. Turns out two of the other flights on the itinerary are no longer existing due to a trade war between Fiji and the Solomon Islands, necessitating completely replanning the last half of my trip. I call back. Hold time is 2 hours 30 minutes. I wait on speakerphone while I do work…45 minutes into the call 3 hours 15 total on the phone …they hang up on me. This goes on again and again. Anyone have tips for dealing with these scam artists? It was maybe a 90 second walk from my hotel to the terminal at Funafuti…the terminal which is huge: Went to the airport at to check-in three hours before the flight as recommend, which was maybe a 90 second walk…if that. Only at Fiji Airways is 60 days an acceptable amount of time for customer service….
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