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The following entries are journal entries I wrote every night during my bikepacking trip through Central America. I wrote these entries for myself, my family, and close friends. I never intended to share these entries with the public; but I received a lot of feedback from my friends and family encouraging me to publish these entries to a wider audience. The following journal entries are raw and unfiltered and much of my writing is personal and brash. This trip was filled with some of the best and worst days of my life. I was pushed to my limit in new ways and tested mentally and physically by unique challenges I had never faced before. All of the ups and downs I experienced are detailed below ridden with personal details and notes for myself to return to. This trip has been in the back of my mind for a long time and the past week the anxiety of this trip stacked on top of the stress and enormous workload from finals really wore me down. Last week was a really hard week. Before I start my narration, I want to air out my thoughts on something. I was inclined to write this entry and subsequent ones with my audience in mind. That is, I was going to leave out some of the more harrowing details to make my trip seem safer. Writing down the difficult parts is also going to help me work through them and prepare for the real Pan-Am this fall. So please never worry about me. I actually got surprisingly good sleep in the floor of the Panama airport last night. A solid 8 hours and I even had over an hour of REM sleep. I took some melatonin so that probably helped. My flight to Guatemala left at After an hour and 50 minutes I was on the ground in GUA and ready to start riding. Deplaning, baggage claim, and customs only took about an hour and because I gained an hour from Panama to Guatemala, I was in a taxi before It was a short ride to the bike shop I had picked out, but I got absolutely gouged on the price. I had the conversion rate all messed up in my head and settled for probably double what a local would have paid. I need to improve my Spanish so I can haggle better. The bike shop was super nice actually and one of the employees spoke Spanish so it was easy to get them to agree to keep my bike bag for the two weeks. Honestly not that bad, but I thought it would be cheaper. One of their mechanics helped me build my bike up so we had it together in no time. He was a really good mechanic, super fast. I changed, filled up my bottles, and stepped on the bike. The guys at the shop were incredulous at the idea of me starting my ride from the shop. Riding in the cities of Central America poses quite a daunting challenge. There are essentially no rules of the road. Anything goes. There is of course no shoulder, so I just ride in the lanes. So I can take a lane and with the draft of the surrounding cars u can just become part of traffic, clipping along at their speed. The problem with auto drafting though is that, while the road surface on the main roads is generally really good, there are some really nasty potholes. These speed bumps can be huge. Every time I come to one it kills my speed and accelerating with all my gear is a pain, so they really suck. Motorcycles do it too, I learned from them. I kind of have to do it though. Absolutely brutal climbing. I have to maintain over watts just to stay upright. They are very twisty and too steep to go fast. I have to ride the brakes the entire time. The roads today were really busy since I went through a lot of towns and the climbing was non-stop. Today was probably my biggest climbing day in terms of elevation per mile. Tomorrow will also be really hilly but I should reach flatter roads in 2 days once I get on my Pan-Am route. After 10 miles of getting used to riding in the busy road I was having a lot of fun. To get out of the city I started up my first climb. Nothing too bad, but I could feel the elevation and it was super hazy today; visibility was less than a mile at times. Some of it is definitely pollution, but some of it must be natural too because it was supposed to be sunny today, but the haze was so thick it felt like I was in Mumbai. So between the pollution and the elevation I could definitely feel it in my lungs. Not bad, but noticeable. I charted my way to Lake Atitlan by late afternoon, making progress through a lot of really developed areas. At times it really felt like I was in India with the air quality, development, and drier forest. Pretty cool experience, but not super exciting riding conditions. The gravel roads and covered bridges in Vermont might actually be the exact opposite of riding in Central America. The stakes are so much higher here. Nobody bikes these roads. Massive trucks zooming by on the main roads just inches away. I was pushed off the road twice today because of this. The one good thing about trucks passing so close is that it generates an artificial tailwind. That is fun. Nobody tries to hide it, they just stare. I really stick out. As I said, nobody bikes on these roads. They bike the quiet side roads, not the through roads. So yeah, I stick out like a sore thumb. The riding here is a lot different and I mean that in a bad way. You always have to be on top of your game. Bikepacking rarely is. If I wanted to enjoy every minute of my day then I picked a really bad hobby. This is me truly living out my dreams. Mexico is on tap! Until then, happy trails. Today was mostly fantastic. I did it. Not great, but a solid starting point. However, I made a big mistake at the end of the day that cast a shadow over all the good riding I did. Two weeks ago all of my gear got stolen when I was bikepacking in Canada. I tried to get replacement camping gear in time, but I have a sponsor company now Big Agnes and it took them a while to iron out my sponsorship guidelines so all my stuff came in late. Oh well. So that means I have no sleeping bag or ground pad. Surprisingly, I also got a little chilly in the night and woke up twice to put on extra layers. By the morning I was wearing everything I brought. That should be my coldest night though since I was up at 8,ft. It was probably about 45 in the morning. I even started with arm warmers on. I got moving by 6, a bit later than I wanted to but I turned off my phone last night to save battery, forgetting my alarm was on my phone. Probably for the better though because my sleep was not great, the extra hour and a half was probably much needed. It was still super hazy when I started so when I stopped to get water I asked the guy to the best of my ability why it was so hazy and if this is common. Apparently, it is always this way during the dry season. All the haze is pollution. A lot of it comes from agricultural slash-and-burn practices and a lot of people still cook with fire. Not to mention the complete lack of pollution regulations on vehicles here. But the worst part is the burning trash. People just throw their stuff off the side of the road in huge piles. These piles then get burned. The air just hangs thick with that smell of burned plastic and I can feel the smoke in my lungs. The rains clear the air, but until then the haze builds. I had a couple of big climbs early in the morning. The big one was over 2k vert which took me up to 9, ft. That will definitely be the high point of my trip unless something changes. That must be one of the highest roads in Central America. After that it was mainly downhill for a long way. There were some big climbs interspersed, but I eventually dropped all the way down to 1,ft so there was a lot of descending. I stopped for an early lunch which was my first solid food in 3 days. Not good. I have to do better about this. Bad on me. The walls got super deep and the road was all downhill so it was a great ride. Towards the bottom, the pavement got worse and worse though. There were sections of super beat gravel where the road washed away years ago. It was beautiful. It had been really arid around 5, ft, like all pine trees and really evident damage from the current drought, but below 5k in this canyon, the first was pretty lush again. A short climb out of the canyon brought me to the Mexico border. The border crossing was so easy. Pedestrians and motorcycles have their own little crossing. I just went straight through. Pretty cool. After the crossing I had a long steep descent. It was hot and getting hotter. By the time the descent bottomed out I was in the desert. There were scraggly trees, but they looked dead and it was oppressively hot. Easily over The road flattened out and turned straight. There was no development for the first time on my trip. It actually felt rural which was nice. The road was also a nice surface with huge shoulders utilized by motorcycles and bikes so it was in great shape. Then a huge mountain chain loomed out of the haze. I looked at the map and sure enough I was going through those bad boys. I was almost out of water and it was late afternoon, the peak of the sun. I knew I was in trouble. The climb was 10 miles long with over 3,ft of elevation gain. Not super steep but that was going to take hours. I ran out of water pretty fast and was on my limit. I was so dehydrated I threw up. I was cooked. Legitimately, I was thinking about hitchhiking or flagging someone down and begging for water. But I a trick up my sleeve. This next little bit is what I was talking about yesterday. Remember how I said everyone throws their trash on the side of the road? The majority of the trash is plastic bottles and beer cans along this section. I was looking at every bottle to see if someone had left some water in them. Just as I was thinking my day was over, I found my saving grace. Two bottles. One half drunk water and another half drunk electrolyte drink. I found the electrolyte drink first and was hesitant to drink it. I forced about a cup of it down and poured the rest in my water bottle, hoping I would t have to finish it. This gave the strength to peddle a little bit allowing me to find the water. This bottle was such a blessing. I made it up the climb, but was super weak. The town was right at the top of the climb and I managed to get to the atm, get my cash, and buy a ton of fluids. Once I had fluids in hand I made myself throw up. I then tried to drink a lot but just felt sick so have been sipping ever since. Obviously was plagued with a splitting headache, muscle cramps, and stomach issues. I went to a restaurant and half-heartedly ordered some food. I was a wreck. The desert here is all rocks. Combined with being quite sick I pulled the plug and got a hotel. So here I am. The good news is that I made it miles. I need to average for the Pan-Am record, so that is a good sign. Getting rest and recovering is way more important than trying to get a couple more miles on the day tomorrow. Feel so bad right now. Off to sleep. I want to preface this entry by saying I am okay and still biking as of the 7th. I was too tired to finish writing. I will get to it later. I expected to struggle on this trip. But usually, there is a healthy balance between struggle and enjoyment. I have yet to find that balance on this trip. At best today was manageable, at its worst I was scared, heat-sick, dehydrated, and thoroughly dejected. The past 2 days have changed how I view the Pan-Am. Until now I had never really considered how much of a problem the heat is going to be. It is exhausting. I could feel it cooking me; literally burning me and sucking the water out of me. Today was not sustainable. I slept decently well last night. Yikes, not good. I also drank water periodically throughout the night. It was still very hazy, but that is clearly here to stay until the rains move in or I get to a different territory down south. The rain would also feel so good. I found myself meandering through some really rural areas. However, the road surface was horrible. The base was a super choppy aggregate, but it was riddled with potholes, gaps, and long sections of very rough gravel. The speed bumps on this section were also heinous. People just put in speed bumps themselves anywhere they want. So the speed bumps are everywhere and they are super chunky. I have to come to a grinding halt to get over them. At I stopped for an early lunch because I was finally feeling better and I wanted to stay ahead of the curve. I got 4L of water, a quesadilla, and carne asada. A wonderful meal. I was content at that moment, but still hesitant. The road surface was just too messy to really enjoy anything; I was always on edge. Loaded down by my lunch and loaded up with water I left the town of Altamirano and continued north. I was still up at 4,,ft of elevation, but it was getting hot. I started feeling sluggish not even 2 hours after stopping for lunch, so I stopped again for water and electrolytes. There is this electrolyte drink that seemingly every store carries. It is miraculous. Anyway, it works. This stuff revitalizes me for about 30 min each time I get it. It generally tastes pretty good too. My long-winded entries of the first few days are a thing of the past. It was hot. Really hot. My body was in shock. Anyway, the afternoon was really awful but I found a nice place to sleep after almost miles. It was pretty jungly, but I had a flat smooth spot. I tried to lay down but I was sweating profusely. It pooled on my body and there was literally a puddle in my tent. It looked like I had spilled my water bottle in the tent. It was awful. No ground pad, nothing. Just me lying on the ground essentially. Bugs inevitably had a field day. Easily the worst night of my life outside of being sick. And to make my sleeping woes worse, there was a huge howler monkey with his entire harem in a tree right above me. Now this is actually super cool, but you might have guessed based on the name, that these monkeys are not quiet. He made a huge racket all night. Unbelievably loud. Do yourself a favor and look up what a howler monkey sounds like. The male made that noise all night. I got a good look at him in the morning. I set out today in really low spirits obviously. It was so freaking hot, I had no reprise. I was sweating before I even got on my bike. I was so far over the physical and mental edge. I just broke down and started crying while I was biking. It felt good to cry. It was the first thing that felt right in 36 hours. But then my tears mixed with my sweat and the sunscreen and got in my eyes making my eyes water and I just cried that much harder. I was thinking that my dreams of doing the Pan-Am were shattered because I thought there was no way in the world I could do it in the heat. I was broken and dejected. There is a lot to unpack here. I somehow made it to the next town and ate and drank a ton. I managed to get back on my bike and keep going. It was so hot and flat and smoky. I pushed through to the Guatemala border and started to feel a little better somehow. I used the last of my pesos to splurge and ate and drank as much as I could and got some pollo asada to go. My pesos are worthless now so I wanted to use them all up while I could. I rode another hour and a half then stopped at a store for water and then I ate my pollo. The owner came and sat with me and talked with me. What a great dude. His English was about as good as my Spanish so we had a very productive conversation and I was able to explain the pan-American to him. He said he had seen other cyclist come through attempting that. I promised him I would stop during my attempt and we would talk again. In an event that is 84 days of unsupported riding, having friends to look for along the way is something so special. That was a turning point for me. Something clicked. Over the course of an hour or two, my body finally accepted the heat and started to rebound. I measured my effort very carefully and made sure to keep my heart rate under bpm. All of a suddenly I was having fun again. I love the people in Guatemala. They are all so nice. I wave and say hi to everyone I see and everyone waves and says hi back. Little kids love it and I feed off their energy too. What a great place to ride my bike. The highlight of my day was when a kid came and rode alongside me. I passed him then he started sprinting to catch up, so I slowed down and he got in my draft. We were about to go through a checkpoint, and the guards all clapped and cheered the kid in and waved me right through. After about a half mile we came to a descent and I went way too fast for his little bike. I gave him a fist bump first though and we had a short little conversation. My afternoon was terrific. Michelle even talked me into getting a hotel so I was cruising knowing a nice bed was waiting for me. Around I noticed the sun had disappeared. It was pretty awesome actually. The temp dropped 20 degrees. It was so fun until the sun set, then it got a little scary because I was worried about my visibility to cars. I made it into Flores, my destination for the night, just fine. After an ATM stop, some street food, and a grocery store, I checked into my hostel and grabbed a nice shower. This hostel is awesome. Thank you so much, Michelle! Now off to sleep for me. Today was a pretty average day on the bike. But that is actually awesome! For the first time this trip I felt like I was out for a normal ride, not much different than any other ride I would do in New England. When I feel good I ride well. Way better than what I need to be doing. But I have some more testing to do. So tomorrow will be uncharted territory: my 6th day. The body feels great, I have no reason to believe tomorrow will be any different than today. But who knows? And there is always the potential for injury-every day increases the risk for overuse-related issues. These are important things to keep in mind for sure, but not things to dwell on for too long. I set out a bit after and started heading southeast out of Flores. The town looks really cool. Dad and Michelle offered to get me a tour of Tikal, but I turned them down in favor of riding. The road surface was fantastic and it was flat and straight for a long ways. All morning I was just chilling. It took a while for my legs to warm up but that is typical. The only thing that really stands out from the morning was the dead ant eater I saw on the side of the road. Poor dude! Still a beautiful animal. Such a shame it got hit. Ants were all over the carcass. How the turntables have…. I stopped for lunch in Poptun. I grabbed food from a grocery store and sat outside while I ate it. One of my friends from school called and we had a nice talk. He wanted to make sure I was doing alright shoutout Larbs. Lunch consisted of ham, cheese, horchata, water in a bag, and chips. A departure from my normal street food lunch, but I wanted to get some consistent measurable protein in. From Poptun i bounced around some mellow mountains for the afternoon before dropping down to the flats close to the ocean. It was hot and the haze was finally gone so the sun was cooking. I came within about yards of Belize but did not illegally cross the river to knock that country off the list even though I was tempted. I got to Rio Dolce shortly before and re-upped on food and liquids at another supermarket before making a final push towards the Honduras border for the night. The road surface was great all day, but the traffic got progressively worse past Rio Dulce. At times the passing trucks made me pretty nervous. There is was too much traffic, much of it being big trucks too, for a two-lane road. I could see some serious storm clouds brewing over the Atlantic. I knew it was only a matter of time before I got a little shower. All evening I kind of skirted some small storms. I got some rain but nothing huge. It was very hard to find a campsite though because there were houses all along the road. I looked at the satellite map and spotted a huge palm tree plantation 30km up the road. I knew that would work well if I just darted in a few rows of trees and set up my tent there. It was already past 6 and it was getting dark. I seem to have lost my tail light. Anyway, it was a little scary riding on this already dangerous road in the dark with no tail light. Then the heavens opened up. I mean buckets of rain. Yesterday I said the storm I was in was the most intense of my life. It was so heavy it was literally impossible to drive, so I had the road all to myself. Nonetheless, I tried to make the best of it and got my stuff set up. The rain actually felt really nice. My tent is holding up alright. It was very dry initially, but water is starting to leak through. The rain seems to be letting up a bit after about 2 hours though, so hopefully the tent holds. Honduras tomorrow I mean it this time which means a hostel because Honduras is way too dangerous to camp in. Today was awesome. Like so awesome. There were 8 armed guards at a grocery store I went to. Their presence makes me feel safer, but the fact that they need 8 armed guards also makes me worry about what they are defending against. It was pretty fun but my tent inevitably let a lot of water in and the rain kept coming all night, so I was dripping wet in the morning along with all my stuff. Camping in the palm plantation was pretty cool. I rode through more plantations to the border where I met a super nice agent on the Guatemala side, Williams. He lived in Boston for 10 years and we had a great talk! He thought I was going to get rejected for sure. Honduras definitely felt a little different, but the roads were still good. He had a very nice time trial bike. We rode together for about 20 miles, swapping turns and simple sentences in Spanglish. We were hauling and I was holding over on my pulls. Good times right by the ocean. He pulled off at his house and I continued on to San Pedro Sula. My passage through the city was uneventful, but not fun. Lots of traffic and I was always on edge about the crime there. After I got through the city I had a huge lunch at a supermarket and had a fantastic next couple of hours on the bike. It was hit and sunny and humid. Honduras has some awesome mountains and I got to climb some of them on my bike and see a lot of them from the road. Lake Yojoa was the highlight of the afternoon. Awesome lake. A couple of stout climbs late in the day then another huge thunderstorm around pm. I can just count on storms every afternoon from here out. It is slightly concerning at times from a safety perspective as the rain is incredibly intense and cars have a hard time seeing me. The rain let up for my descent I to Comayagua and I dried a little bit. Comayagua sits in a valley crowned with mountains. Not a safe city, but I have a quaint little hotel more like a Bed and Breakfast really and feel totally safe. A couple runs it and they are really nice. The lady here is a gardener and she has hundreds of little plants all potted along the courtyard. I grabbed a bunch of food from a grocery store before I got here and just ate a ton with a lot left for breakfast too. Rotisserie chicken, ice cream, and 7-Up for dinner. Living the dream. My legs were super strong today and I definitely felt the best I have all trip. To Nicaragua tomorrow. My first really normal day on the bike down here, nothing out of the ordinary, decent legs, but nothing to write home about. It took me a couple of hours to warm up, as is normal now. I slowly climbed out of the big Comayagua Valley and then dropped over some mountains into this beautiful valley with sharp hills. It was more arid this morning than it had been the last couple of days, but the recent rains have made everything a beautiful green and the mountains were alive. The road turned and twisted with some very punchy hills for about 50 miles. It was a perfect 4-lane divided highway and I had it all to myself. There were almost no population centers on the whole thing. It was a great ride. I had one small hiccup though. I was riding along and heard a motorcycle me up behind me. The motorcycle slowed down, then just sat right behind me and went my speed. I got a little nervous, but thought maybe he was going to come talk to me in a second so I tried to just ignore him. For the better part of 30 minutes, he would ride right behind me, then stop all of a sudden and wait for me to get out of sight before catching back up. I was starting to worry. It would be so easy for him to knock me off my bike and take all my stuff and dip, nobody was around. Finally, he came up next to me and just started chatting like we were best friends. He had a cycling shirt on, he was a fellow cyclist. He escorted me for several more miles then told me to be safe and not to stop anywhere then he rode off. My theory is that he initially saw me and knew we were going through a dangerous spot, so he rode behind me to make it look like I had protection. Beyond that, I have no idea what he was doing. That definitely left me a little rattled. I had a quick resupply and once again emptied my bowels. I felt okay, but my stomach was pretty messed up. I carried toilet paper with me all day because I had a LOT of emergent stops. I have a little bit of chaffing going on as is inevitable when you bike this long every day. But nothing was horrendous before today. However, all that extra wiping started to take its toll and the sweat, constant riding, and frequent bathroom breaks made for some uncomfortable riding. You get the idea. Enough said. I continued on through the afternoon. Things started to heat up. I was making lots of stops anyway for the aforementioned reasons, so it was no problem to take lots of hydration breaks. I got to Choluteca around This was my last major Honduran town, and maybe my most uncomfortable one. So there is a lot more traffic, a lot more stopping, slower speeds, and more people right on top of you. Maybe I was overreacting, but it felt pretty unsafe. People in Honduras are definitely less outwardly friendly to me. I did stop in Choluteca actually. I stopped at a grocery store and got my final resupply before Nicaragua. I feel totally safe at these grocery stores because of all the armed guards. I pushed on to the Nicaraguan border about 50km past Choluteca. I legitimately did not feel safe in this section. For the first time this trip, I was checking over my shoulder and watching everyone on the side of the road. Some people said some nasty things. My big scare came when a group of rough-looking guys stared me down, had a quick conversation, then all hopped on their motorcycles and peeled out right behind me. They were just trying to scare me, but damn it worked. They saw me jump and start to sprint and got a huge kick out of it. On this 50km stretch I was also buzzed by 3 motorcycles, each time very intentionally. They turned and got enjoyment out of my fear each time. Not a super fun time. I finally got to the border and had about 30 miles left until the base of the volcanoes I had decided to camp under for the night. I got through the Honduras side no problem, but then when I got to Nicaragua they told me there was a problem. Nicaragua apparently requires this vaccine card for entry. I showed them digital proof, but they wanted my actual card. The agent in street clothes asking for a bribe was obviously so sketchy. They took me inside and into back rooms and kept asking me the same questions over and over. They took my passport and disappeared into different rooms, talking g to different people. They asked for more money. At this point, I was pretty sure I was just getting scammed. They asked me a bunch of questions about my bike, its make, its model, its color, and stupid stuff that they could clearly see since my bike was right there. They made me say my phone number like 10 times. They kept getting mad at my Spanish. I was rattled and all this time the sun was setting. If I got rejected I was going to have to ride through the sketchy part of Honduras all over again, this time in the dark, all the way to Choluteca. Finally, they let me through. I had promised them I would stay in a hotel for the night, but the closest hotel is 80km away! I also promised them I would get to Costa Rica by tomorrow night, km away miles. Riding 80km here in the dark is not worth the risk. My body is tired. My mind is tired. I want to take a shower and go to sleep. They feel great which is a fantastic sign. It rained pretty much all night. Nothing super heavy, but enough to get me wet in the tent. Still, I slept well. This morning was absolutely gorgeous. I watched the sunrise on the road. Really special. As the clouds lifted a bit I could see numerous volcanoes on the horizon. Massive stratovolcanoes rising to the sky out of the flat Nicaraguan pan. I saw two active volcanoes today that were belching some smoke. Really awesome stuff. The sun was out all morning and I got absolutely cooked. I totally forgot to put on sunscreen in the morning and by the time I realized it was too late. It only took 3 hours of direct sunlight to burn straight through my tan, which is already really dark. The beautiful scenes continued as I rode towards Managua on the banks of Lake Managua. It clouded in before I got to the city and thunderstorms started to roll in. I had a nice 3, ft climb out of Managua then a steady low-grade descent for a long way out the backside. It rained off and on but never too heavy or for too long. Along the shores of Lake Cocibolca, the road was pan-flat and dead straight for a long way. There is a second peak next to it. I almost chose it as the site of my solar power fundraiser for the fall since the Honnold Foundation has a partnership there. I was pretty bored on the bike in the afternoon. My legs felt fine though, I just wanted to push to the border. About 30 miles from my hostel for the night and 15 miles from the border, my rear tire blew up. The sidewall completely split open and my tube blew. I was really disappointed. My ride ended at mile Such a bummer. Not fun. I started thumbing for a ride. I need to get to Liberia to get a new tire. A taxi was the first to stop for me so I just coughed up the money and told him to take me to the border. Clearing the border was easy. You never know nowadays, thankfully it was easy though. Across the border, I found two guys who were driving well past Liberia and asked if they could give me a ride. With a little help from Google Translate, we worked it out and they agreed to give me a lift. Nice guy. I got to Liberia after an hour twenty drive and am now in my hostel and now am going to sleep. Please just a nice ride. Sorry for using this entry to whine once again. Only 5 days left; my flight leaves on the 18th and I want to be back in Guatemala City on the 17th to give myself some time to pack my bike and not be super rushed on the morning of the 18th. There are some really beautiful-looking beaches there. For some reason, I thought I had 17 days to ride. Not sure where I got that number from since I had a final on the 2nd and a return flight in the 18th. Anyway, because I thought I had 17 days I did some quick eyeballing of the map and thought I would make it to Panama. Because I thought I was going to Panama, I got really excited about the prospect of biking the Costa Rican coast from Jaco to Panama because it looks really beautiful. That was nice, but I was a bit down on myself. Having my bike break sucks. Because I was frustrated and angry the night before, I had made even more mistakes. I only realized this when I got to Liberia later. Ultimately those are two relatively inconsequential items to lose. I only have 3 pairs of shorts and those were my favorite ones. The toothpaste is less of an issue. Maybe my 4th tube will make it home. I got my bike fixed and bought some new earbuds at RadioShack then rolled out of town. I was excited to have music again. Music is such a powerful mood booster for me. It also fends off the boredom really well. They seemed to be of decent quality though. They broke after 3 hours. I was pretty mad. No more music again. Really a bummer. Like I said, sounds small, but it means a lot. It was mostly sunny this morning, but clouded in really quickly and started raining before noon. Off and on rain all day and some really heavy stuff in the afternoon and evening. The ride took me into progressively jungle-ier territory. The jungle here is exactly like the stereotypical jungle I picture in my head, the type you see in movies like The Jungle Book. Cool stuff. I wish I could spend some time actually exploring it. Not much to report about my ride. A normal day. The rain is fine though. Without the rain, the rainforest would be… well… just the forest. But I do miss being dry. Being constantly wet is starting to get to me a little, mainly my feet. That means my feet have been crammed in wet shoes for the past 6 days so I have some painful trench foot going on. The skin is slowly dying and peeling off in these white sloughs. It really hurts now to pedal at times. Not really sure what to do about it. New bike shoes is the one big ticket item I have left on my Pan-Am gear list. The ones I have are broken and held together by duct tape at the moment. The problem is that breathable means less warm when I am up in Alaska and down in the mountains of Tierra del Fuego. Decisions to be made. I got to the beach I had picked as my campsite for the night right when I thought I would. I was hoping to set up the tent, go for a little dip, and watch the sun set over the Pacific, but the thunderstorms had other plans for me. I still went for a dip, that was nice. I splashed around for a while actually. Just butt-ass naked on this remote beach with nobody around. Lightning flashing all around me and the roar of thunder combining with the crashing waves to create a symphony of dramatic nature sounds. It was nice. It felt good to swim. Since everything I own is currently soaked I figured I would try to wash some of my clothes a little as in rinse them and call them clean. Like really really bad. But it has its downsides. Mainly the sand is everywhere. Insane t-storm right now and the wind just blew out my tent. Brutal night ahead I fear, these storms are wicked right now. Had to take a minute to re-stake the tent. My narration is pretty much done anyways. A really solid day today. My days are starting to blend together and I totally have my routine down. Today I was right at miles on just 10 hours of moving time. My average speed is staying consistent, my stoppage time each day is very similar, the ride ebbs and flows in predictable ways. Like anything you do every day, day after day it becomes second nature. Sometimes since my day is so formulaic at the moment it feels more like a job. There are also moments where I feel burned out. The burnout is inevitable and just another barrier to the type of training that I am doing, not a problem. Easy to resolve, and I always bounce back. But the moments where I am not grateful for what is before me are what bothers me. This hit me really hard today when I was at my turnaround point. I made it to Quepos and rode down to the national park where I had planned to turn around. Tropical paradise. And I did enjoy the view and I appreciated the beauty, but as I took a 5 minute break and sat on some rocks overlooking the beach I found myself wishing I could just sit and relax. Maybe read a book and have a drink. I was wishing to have a fun time like the other people I saw. There I was, at one of the coolest beaches in the world, wishing for more. Some people dream their whole lives of seeing what I saw today and in the moment I was belittling the incredible value of my experience. Luckily I recognized this while I was sitting there and I tried to reconcile my conflictions. I mean look at some of the pictures from today. Absolutely stunning. Camping on the beach is cool, but it always sounds more fun than it turns out to be. The big issue is the sand. I was obviously wet and so was all my stuff. So the sand clung to everything. I felt like a sugar cookie. You know when you take the dough and roll it around in the bowl of sugar and it comes out completely crusted in granulates of sugar. Just like that. Absolutely covered in sand. Like anything else, you just get used to it. I think I spent more time worried at the thought of being a sand monster than I actually spent afflicted by the sand. There is nothing I can do about it. However, I could not get the sand out of my cycling shoes and socks. Sorry you can see that my skin is so shriveled up there are deep creases in the bottom of my feet. Sand got all up in these creases and all day the grit wore away at the skin in these creases. The weather I have now is what I was expecting this whole time. Grass is ALWAYS greener on the other side because a day in the Tabasco desert like day number 3 would do me a world of healing and drying, but at the time I got heatstroke and dehydrated. There was just a very light drizzle when I woke up and the sky above me was mostly clear. There was a huge thunderstorm bank out over the Pacific though. Lightning was flashing over the sea while the sky to the east lightly painted thin cirrus clouds in a rotating palate of every color in the rainbow. I saw 9 macaws on the way there. None of my pictures came out that well, but wow they are incredible in person. Such beautiful birds and really smart too. They are almost always in pairs I saw 4 pairs and a solitary flyer because they are monogamous for life, which can be up to 80 years! They are loud too. Like I literally could not stop my bike on this descent. Right now my biggest fear, even over getting robbed, is my brakes. In the rain, they might as well not be there. If I get to a big descent in the middle of a huge storm in the next couple of days it could be really bad. The brakes on this bike have always been bad, but with the beater wheels I have on right now, the brakes have never been worse. It was weird to get to the beach then just turn around and start heading back to Guatemala. This kind of ties into what I was saying about a lack of motivation to really push myself. It was 70km from my campsite to my turnaround so at kilometer I was back on the road I did yesterday into Jaco. The rain had started at around right after I left the park. Very fortunate to have had some sun for the morning! So typical and predictable. Thunderstorms in the afternoon into the evening that eventually taper into a steady rain that usually stops a couple hours after midnight then there is some clearing for sunrise before the clouds start building again when the sun starts heating everything up. Maybe everything I just said about the weather is irrelevant lol. That is a bummer. I usually keep my phone on airplane mode except when I stop at stores anyways and hopefully I can get WiFi at the stores. The biggest drawback is not having a Spanish translator in my pocket anymore. That has come in clutch a few times including at the Nicaragua border during my little bribery stint. I guess time will tell. Hoping to make it to Managua tomorrow night. It should be about km from where I am right now a cow pasture just northwest of Limonal, CR. I might be done biking for this trip. The right crank arm on my bike has completely splintered making my bike unrideable. If I cannot get a replacement crank arm in Managua tonight or tomorrow morning then my trip is over. It really breaks me up to even think about this trip being over. There have been so many moments during my journey here where I thought I wanted my trip to be over but now that it might actually be here I am not ready for the end. I do miss those things, but I love what I have here in Central America. Only now that the rest of my bike trip may go up in smoke do I truly understand how much this biking and this journey means to me. As stupid as it may be, my biking and my training mean more to me than anything else in the world other than the love I have for friends and family. Without the support of friends and family the biking would never happen. I am so incredibly grateful for what I have been able to do. I keep talking like my ride is over and it might not be. I had a really great tent spot last night. Almost too good actually. Last night while I was watching the water drip down the walls of my tent amid a flurry of mosquitos I thought of all those commercials for the fancy mattresses so many Americans use. Yet there seem to be so many chiropractors too. If we all slept on the ground, or at least with less of a cushion, would there be less back pain? I mean that too. Sleeping straight on the ground with no pad in the sand and in the rain truly has been a gritty experience in the most literal definition of the word. The rain last night was never super heavy, but it was steady and it never stopped. It followed me through the night and all the way through Liberia this morning. I got a nice early 4 am wake-up and was biking 20 minutes before the sun was up. I made great time to Liberia. Not much to report on. It was a 4-lane divided limited-access highway the entire way. Costa Rica is in the midst of turning the small 2-lane highway CA-1 into a freeway, and they need to. I was so scared riding it last night in the waning light during the rain. The problem is, this freeway is technically no bikes allowed. I have no option but to bike this road. If Costa Rica continues to expand the freeway and fails to provide an option for cyclists then the Pan-American could become impossible to actually complete. As is, it is impossible to legally complete by the letter of the law. There are cyclists on the freeway though and the rules definitely are not enforced. The rain kept coming but it was nice and cool. About 10km past Liberia I started noticing that my right pedal seemed to be slipping a bit. An easy replacement back home. The pedal was getting so loose because of the fracturing carbon crank that it was seriously changing the way my foot tracked when I pedaled. My Achilles started hurting as the play got worse to the point where I realized I had to stop. The splintering was getting exponentially worse and it was only a matter of kilometers before the pedal pulled out. Every revolution I could hear the carbon splintering a bit more. I made it to La Cruz and called it. I found the bus stop and got the first bus to the border. I wanted to capture my thoughts in the moment while I have the time to write them down. Already talking it through with myself has made me feel a little better. They will mean so much to me. I was holding out blind hope that I could fix my bike in Managua, but no shops have what I need. My ride is over. I just wanted to get out of Managua. I had a huge dinner. I went to a Walmart and got a new pair of pants and loaded up on food while I was there. In the streets there were a lot of little children begging. They were all over the road in the middle of dangerous traffic. It was really sad to see. I got over myself and my whole being sad about the bike being broken mindset after that. I awoke at the Honduras border at Checking us out of Nicaragua took forever. It was ridiculous. Nicaraguan border patrol is the worst. It took 2 hours for them to process 50 people. Despite my best efforts, I have yet to find any book to read in Spanish or English. Thus, my only entertainment during this bus ride was my phone. The WiFi on board was super spotty and went out completely around , not to return again. I managed to watch one minute YouTube video over the course of an hour because it was buffering so much. So my boredom quickly found an outlet in food. I had and still have a lot of Nicaraguan Cordobas and Honduran Lempiras local currencies. I was planning on using them while biking back through these countries and I think my cash supply was well sized to get me through with only a couple USD equivalent left over after exiting each country, but getting whisked by in a bus changed those plans. So every opportunity I got I just spent a lot of money on food and kind of binge ate to fend off the boredom. I just sat on my ass looking at my phone eating food all day as opposed to riding my bike all day. Regardless, I ate some really good food, ate way too much food, and drank some really cool stuff idk what half of the stuff I drank was, so many different juices bought from street vendors that come in little plastic bags and you kind of just hope whatever it is is going to be okay for your body , drank way too much stuff, and inevitably ended up using the bathroom a whole lot to the chagrin of the person sitting in the aisle seat next to me. Anyways, lots of solid and liquid calories were consumed, only a portion of which are pictured. Best drink of the day: mystery juice purchased on the Honduras side of the Honduras-Nicaragua Border. Most interesting taste: mystery meat double decker sandwich purchased on the Honduras side of the Honduras-Nicaragua Border I honestly have no idea what this was. Kind of a sweet taste, hints of some type of seafood? But the consistency of like raw shredded chicken? Honestly probably a mix of meats that comes in a can, like spam, in a grocery store if I had to guess. Like I said, it rained all day. You just get used to it. You can always tell a tourist or a gringo apart because they run through the rain to try to stay dry. The locals just walk through it like nothing is any different than if the sun is out. For some people an umbrella is a permanent fixture since they use it protect against the sun too, especially mothers with small children. During one stop I purchased some food from a street vendor, bartered the price down a little, then slowly walked back to the bus in the pouring rain, eating my food with my hands. Perhaps the most proud moment of my trip thus far. Progress huh? Here it can rain 5 inches in a couple of hours and the rivers barely swell. I legitimately do not understand where the water goes. Upon arriving in San Salvador I biked the 2. It was dark at this point and I was really unsure of where to go and what bus to take, but a local told me to just stand on this street corner and catch the next bus. The bus was a city bus, a converted school bus. A lot of Central American countries have school buses, both private and public, for transportation. Actual school buses down here are little microbuses that look more like vans. These big converted school buses can HAUL. Also called chicken buses, these things absolutely rip. Some drivers really customize the exterior with stickers, paint jobs, crazy bumpers, antennas, LED screens, and unique hubcaps, you name it. Maybe I can get some pics of the cooler ones over the coming days. I think the best ones I saw were in Guatemala the first few days so I should be back in the glory lands of pimped-out buses soon. Getting my bike over the turnstile was a pain but some locals helped me. Fair enough, it took up 2 extra seats and was a hassle for other passengers to move around. El Salvador uses the US dollar as official currency. Ridiculous currency. Would be so much easier to just drop down two orders of magnitude. The bus stopped in La Libertad but my hostal is 5km west up the coast, so I started slowly biking that way. My crank finally snapped all the way with 4km to go, so I ended up walking all the hills and coasting all the downhills in the dark rain. Definitely a goofy experience. I quite like my hostal. The last time I was able to sleep for as long as I wanted was well over a month ago before finals. Tomorrow I will just do whatever I want to do. Go for a swim, walk along the beach, journal, try to find a book, eat more good food. I have no plans and nowhere to be. Life is pretty sweet at the moment. Kind of I had a fantastic vision of me sitting on a sunny beach, leaned back against a palm tree, reading a book and maybe swimming a bit. Not quite the day Mother Nature had in store for me, but still a nice peaceful day. I woke up to the nice sound of heavy rain on the corrugated sheet metal roofing. I had a nice laid back morning and went upstairs on the open air balcony to lay in a hammock and journal a bit. The hammocks overlook the river which was quickly rising due to the rain. I sat and sipped some coffee as the rain continued to pound the roof. Unfortunately the river started to smell like the sewer as it got higher and tons of trash we being swept down. The rain was really heavy for about 6 hours after 3 days of continuous rain and it caused some serious flooding. It rained way more than normal even for the rainforest. About 2 hours after waking up I decided to just walk around in the rain. No point in waiting for it to pass since it was clearly here to stay. I walked through town and down to the beach. I stopped for breakfast first and enjoyed some eggs and plantains. The river flows right into the ocean at the end of town. There is no bridge in town since people usually just walk across the river. It was a muddy torrent. So much trash all part of the Pacific now. It made me really sad. I picked up some trash but it was pointless. There was so much of it I could work all day and not make a dent in the load. There were red flags on the beach anyways, absolutely no swimming allowed. The sea was very turbulent and the wind was whipping up the coast. The river had turned all the water along the coastline an orange muddy color so the water looked like the roiling mess of a witches brew with trash floating all around. There is a cool rock formation about 50meters off the coast right in town. Normally there would be tons of surfers out in beautiful crystal water, but nobody was even walking in the beach today. The waves were swelling at 10ft, but super choppy and not breaking cleanly. Nobody could surf if they had wanted too. I walked down the coast until I got to the next impassible river. This one was also booming and it was rapidly eating away at the beach, calving off huge sections from the sand banks. I sat and watched the beach get washed away for about 30 minutes. I love watching erosion. This whole time the rain was coming down in sideways sheets. The rain was a little unfortunate. Because of all the surfing El Tunco is very touristy and there are some really nice resorts. I wandered into one and went for a little swim in their pool. Nobody was outside in the rain to stop me. After a couple of hours of poking around I headed back i go town and grabbed lunch at a restaurant right on the beach looking over the ocean. The town was dead and so was the restaurant. It felt like a ghost town. After lunch I returned to the hostel for a hammock nap. I found a stack of books at the hostel and got super excited. But one was a Spanish dictionary and one was a Spanish Italian translation dictionary. I saw a Stephen king book though and was very happy. But I opened it to find the whole thing was written in German. The remaining books were also all in German. I took a nap for a couple hours then bummed around the hostal making small talk here and there. The hostal has a very small pool and it had rained easily 5 inches in a couple hours so the pool was actually overflowing. There was just water everywhere. It was kind of cool in a way. The rain abated some as it got dark which was nice and it fully stopped around The best I can describe it is like a combination of a quesadilla and a pancake. I watched the lady make mine from scratch. She took some cheese and then took some dough and molded it around the cheese, then pressed it flat and threw it in the griddle with a lot of butter and oil. I really liked my pupusas and each one was only a dollar! I walked along the coast again when it was dark. Now that the rain had stopped all the tourists had emerged from their hotels and resorts and there were a decent amount of people milling about. I was just looking g for some conversation. I sat on a log on the beach and let the wind dry me out a bit. Drying slowly also brings out some unfortunate odors. So it was nice to dry out a bit. It started sprinkling again though so I went back to the hostel and fell asleep to the sound of the returning rain. After my ride ended I really just wanted to get home. Yesterday was fine, but I was totally just stalling. More rain. I walked down the road to enjoy one last meal, but almost everything was closed. Yesterday the floods washed a bunch of dirt and rocks into the road in spots. It was incredible, plants were already sprouting up from these piles of dirt in the middle of the road. I found the only open restaurant 50 meters upstream of the mouth of the river. It was quite nice and peaceful and I was the only person there. All the other tourists were still sleeping or scared by the rain. The power was still out at the hostal, as it was all night, but the restaurant I was at seemed to have electricity and they got my food prepped no problem. I sat on the porch overlooking the river and enjoyed my breakfast. I walked out to the beach again in a light drizzle but promptly turned around when I got to the beach because I could see a huge storm less than a kilometer off the coast and closing fast. I beelined for the hostal and made it just in time to avoid the worst of the rain. For the next 4 hours it really dumped. No thunder, no lightning, just buckets of rain. My bus left San Salvador at , but I was supposed to be there 45 minutes early. So I really had 2 extra hours to play with. I sat in the side of the highway in the pouring rain with my bike for about 20 minutes before the first microbus came by. I took a chicken bus down here to La Libertad, but that is where the city bus routes end. I would have to get a microbus if I wanted to get a single bus all the way back to San Salvador. The first bus went right by me. These buses are much nicer than the chicken buses, it makes sense they did t want my bike. I was begging to worry now so I started hightailing it to La Libertad. Hightailing it in the city diction my bike is in looks like walking rapidly up the hills and coasting down them. I can pedal with one foot, but then have to use the other foot to finagle the crank back up. But it was raining so hard all the blood kept getting washed away. Out of sight out of mind. Once in La Libertad the traffic was so bad and the road was sloped downhill enough for me to coast, I was able to weave in and out of traffic and actually caught up to the chicken bus headed to San Salvador. I made it to the bus station exactly 45 minutes before departure. The bus was super nice and there were only about 5 passengers. The ride went by really quickly. The WiFi was good, the border crossing took 5 minutes, and the roads were smooth. The bus conveniently dropped me off just a couple blocks from my hostal in Guatemala City and the rain was nice enough to let up enough for me to make it to the hostal without getting completely soaked. It feels very safe here, not like some other parts of the city. There are high rises around and nice restaurants. Lots of cops everywhere. I definitely unknowingly got a hostal in the nice part of town. It worked out perfect. I went to a grocery store a couple blocks from the hostal for dinner. This store was like a Whole Foods! Highlight of my dinner haul is 1. Beautiful find. I actually have my down jacket on while typing this while I am sitting in the open air kitchen eating my cup of noodles. Loooong travel day s coming with a 12 hour overnight layover in Miami tomorrow, 2 more flights in the 19th, then a 3 hour car ride to Hanover. Hopefully I leave the rain here, but it looks like the heat will be following me home. Holy smokes! Climate change is going crazy. The hostel had free breakfast, which was nice since someone stole all my groceries. Who steals food marked with my name by the way from a fellow traveler? That stuff is so good. I went to the grocery store again to get groceries round 2. I cheffed up some ham and cheese sandwiches then headed to the bike shop to pack up my bike for the flight. I left my bike box there when I flew in. The mechanics were super nice and helpful again and were really interested in my trip. They told me it was quite dangerous to take a taxi in Guatemala City with a bike box like mine. Apparently taxis in general are dangerous here. I took them up on their kind offer and they dropped me right at the door exactly 2 hours before my flight. We took off late but actually ended up getting to Miami on time. My flight from Miami to NYC was actually longer. I had a window seat on the flight and got to see some cool volcanoes over Guatemala then I saw Cuba when we flew over it. I would love to go down there eventually. Miami customs is always an ordeal because you have to walk a long way and there are a million people then they dump you out into a regular security line once you clear customs. All the lines moved relatively quickly though and I had about 10 hours to enjoy the airport by the time I was through customs. I went on one of my favorite websites sleepinginairports. People post their best sleeping spots here. As foretold, I found a quiet nook at the top of the escalator to the Admirals Club next to gate D Highly recommend for anyone spending the night in Miami. Good ac, nice solid hard floor, relatively clean carpet. I was wearing all my clothes so my dry bag full of charging blocks and other miscellaneous items was my only pillow. It was not very comfortable and after I dozed off I ended up shifting my head a bit and using my sandwiches as my primary pillow. I guess they are paninis now. The sea and sky looked mirrored so I flipped the image around for kicks. My flight left just after we touched down in LaGuardia less than 3 hours later. Valiant effort though. LaGuardia is a really cool airport. The redesign reminds me of Star Wars. There is a great view of the city too. My flight from LGA to Boston was short and uneventful and my Mom picked me up from the airport and we are now en route to Hanover! Thank you guys for following along. I am coming away from this trip with the confidence of knowing I can bike the whole Pan-American and I am bringing profound and invaluable lessons back to Hanover with me. I have a lot to work on and a lot to look forward to. Central America Bikepacking. Jun 20 Written By Bond Almand. View fullsize. How the turntables have… I stopped for lunch in Poptun. Best food of the day: carne asada purchased on the Honduras side of the El Salvador-Honduras Border Best drink of the day: mystery juice purchased on the Honduras side of the Honduras-Nicaragua Border Most interesting taste: mystery meat double decker sandwich purchased on the Honduras side of the Honduras-Nicaragua Border I honestly have no idea what this was. Until next time, -Bond. Bond Almand.
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Do you live in Helsinki? Tell us some prices in Helsinki Summary of cost of living in Honduras: A family of four estimated monthly costs are 2, A single person estimated monthly costs are Cost of living in Honduras is, on average, Rent in Honduras is, on average, Last update: October Our data for each country are based on all entries from all cities in that country. Sources and References What are sources and references? No sources and references provided yet. Your use of this service is subject to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Every price you add makes our comparisons more accurate and useful! Tell us some prices in Helsinki. Summary of cost of living in Honduras: A family of four estimated monthly costs are 2, This country had entries in the past 12 months by 48 different contributors. Sources and References. What are sources and references? Add a new source here: URL: Description:. Moving to Honduras? Deutsch Lebenshaltungskosten in Honduras. Italiano Costo della Vita in Honduras.
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