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One more to add to the list is the small town of Elmina. Although right next to Cape Coast, Elmina is often overlooked by tourists who ignore just how attractive and historically significant this overgrown fishing village is. Being on the coast, the best place to stay is right on the beach west of town at one of the resorts or guest house, like the charming Stumble Inn. The beachfront location is hard to beat with eastern views taking in the coast, fishing village and castle in the distance. Closer to town you start seeing signs of the fishing life — brand new dugout boats made from hollowed tree trunks are lining up the shore. This one is after all the oldest European building south of the Sahara and was the first trading post to be established on the Gulf of Guinea. Just like the Cape Coast castle, it was first a trade settlement before becoming a major stop on the route of the Atlantic slave trade. The Portuguese church in the middle of the courtyard. A special cell marked with a skull above the door was used to imprison slaves who rebelled against the Portuguese. Inside the female slave dungeons where hundreds were held captive. While the lower level of the castle is pretty grim, the upper floors were reserved for what we could call the upper class, watching the action down below from balconies and fancy quarters. The Fort St Jago is looking over the castle from the top of the hill and was used by the Dutch to bombard the castle in the 17th century, forcing a Portuguese surrender. Looking west you can get a splendid view of the lagoon and all the fishing boats coming in and out. Boat in the making. Eagle flying over the harbour. The old Dutch Cemetery. Posuban shrines can be found in the streets around the castle and are unique to the region. These colorful concrete sculptures are each dedicated to one of the militia-type organizations who used to have military duties but are now mostly ceremonial in nature. Street scene. Before leaving I made sure to grab my favorite street snack, kelewele — fried plantains with spices, usually ginger and cayenne pepper…completely addictive! I quickly jumped into the local specialties and always laugh at the surprised looks I get from Ghanaians here, unused to seeing an obruni white person eat their street staples and loving it! Plantains both ripe and green , cassava and yams makes up the starchy base for most dishes. The other main ingredients consist of tomatoes, onions, garlic, ginger, small yellow eggplants called garden eggs here , tomato paste, shrimp bouillon cubes from Maggi brand, salt, and a version of hot pepper paste or sauce made from fresh and fiery peppers. Cooking mostly happens over a traditional charcoal stove though in big cities more and more people have access to a familiar sight: gas stove! First-time visitors to Ghana are often introduced to Ghanaian cuisine with this dish, probably the most popular with foreigners. Red Red is a scrumptious bean stew served with fried plantains and gets its name from the palm oil red in which it is cooked. When oil is hot, wash the plantain and put it in it. Using the same oil as the one you fried the plantains in, reheat and add the chopped onions into the pan, stirring until slightly browned. Add tin tomatoes, mashed garlic, chopped ginger, curry, salt and powder pepper or fresh pepper paste to mixture and stir for minutes. You can also use a mortar and pestle to puree the ingredients before adding them to the pan. Add beans and continue stirring for a few minutes. Palava or Palaver sauce is a traditional West African greens stew made with palm oil, tomatoes, and hot peppers, thickened with pumpkin seeds and flavored with dried, smoked fish. It soon became one of my go-to dishes here as I always felt I was missing on vegetables, Ghanaian cuisine being so starch heavy. Palava Sauce Preparation: Put saucepan on the fire and add the red oil. Chop onions and add to the oil. Add pepper to the saucepan when the onions are browned. Blend, chop, or grind tomatoes and salt and add to the saucepan. Simmer for about 5 minutes. Cut smoked fish if using into sizeable chunks and add to the saucepan. Add a bit of water to the Angushi ground pumpkin seeds and the shrimp bouillon cube. Stir until it is well cooked — approximately 5 minutes. Wash, thinly slice, and add Nkontomire into saucepan. Add about half a glass of water to the saucepan and stir for approximately minutes on low fire before adding the chopped tomatoes. Slowly cook for a few more minutes and keep warm. Boiled Yam Preparation: Heat water with a pinch of salt. Wash and peel the yam. Wash yam pieces and place into the water. Let the yam boil until it is soft then drain well. Presentation: Serve an equal portion of boiled yam and Palava sauce. While Red Red and Palava Sauce are fairly popular with locals and even more with foreigners, the most common Ghanaian dish is a soup eaten with either banku, fufu, or kenkey and a protein. Light soup is essentially the base of all types of soups found in Ghana and from it you can easily make Groundnut Soup see below and Palm Nut Soup. Meanwhile, wash and chop onions, garden eggs small eggplants and tomatoes and boil together. Put the garden eggs, tomatoes, and onion into a blender and mix into a puree. Cook until there is not a lot of water and you see oil on the surface. Taste the soup, and add any spices you would like such as salt to taste while it is still on the fire. What can only be described as a gooey ball of mashed cassava or yam and plantain is surprisingly tasty and almost always served submerged in a soup. Eating fufu is clearly not as straightforward as eating red red or palava sauce and requires a bit of practice, which makes it even more fun. Boil cassava and plantains together until soft. Strain well and put aside. Using a big wooden mortar and pestle, start pounding the cooked plantain one piece at a time pounding instructions are below. Turn the fufu over, while beating with clean wet hand. Pound until it has a consistency of dough. All in all it will take about minutes.. Shape into a ball, and put it in a bowl, ready to be submerged in your choice of soup. Hold the pounding stick in your left hand to pound the ingredients. As you pound with your left hand use your right hand to turn the mixture as you would turn bread dough when kneading it. Use a small bucket of water to dampen your right hand as you turn the mixture. Dampen your hand with water as needed to prevent the mixture from sticking. This dish is eaten with the right hand only. Then use your fingers as a scissors, and cut the fufu by bringing your index and middle fingers together. When you have cut the fufu use all your fingers to create a cup or scoop with your hand, and scoop up some soup with the fufu as you bring your hand out of the bowl. It can be hot, so be careful. Groundnut Soup or peanut soup is simply a base of Light Soup into which we add peanut butter…simple and so delicious! Mix groundnut paste i. Gently heat while constantly stirring until very creamy and all the water has been absorbed. Chop onion and eggplants into medium size chunks and boil until soft in a separate saucepan. Blend boiled onion, tomato paste and eggplants in blender. Add pepper and salt to the puree. Add 3 cups of water to groundnut paste and let boil. Add puree into the saucepan. Bring to a boil and boil for 15 minutes. Where do you go in Ghana when you really want to get away from it all and get close to some version of an utopian hideaway? The remoteness of this pristine stretch of beach on the West coast, proven by the long drive through rural communities and an extensive rubber plantation required to get there, is the ideal setting for a totally secluded holiday in dreamy surroundings…and no cell service. The reception. French signs adorned the landscape, pointing the way to the beach Boulevard de la Plage …. High Times House. The all-natural look and feel of the bedroom, ingenious composting toilet in the bathroom, and constant breeze flowing through blur the lines between the outside and the inside. No need for AC or even a fan as all the houses have been designed to make the best use out of that fresh ocean breeze which acts as natural ventilation…and the rolling waves make the best soundtrack to fall asleep to. Culinary-wise, it exceeds all expectations for such a remote location, thanks to an organic garden providing fresh produce for the kitchen and bar and trees filled with mangos, coconuts, lime, bananas, oil palm, etc.. Not to miss: the bar stocks a stunning array of housemade akpeteshie , the local spirit, flavored with produces and fruits from the land — pineapple, ginger, lemongrass, fried bananas, cinnamon, garlic, etc. I felt it was my duty to try them all…! Vegetarian pasta dish from the garden. Roasted chicken with rice, Escape style. Freshly-caught grilled lobster or what one should always have for dinner at a place like this…. With my friend Tara who was visiting me from New York for a week. The beach bar has an even more stunning setting you guessed it, right on the beach , and immediately charms with its casually laid out rustic furniture, looking as if it has just sprung from the sandy ground. Recycled bottles were used to make the walls, creating vibrant light reflections at different times of day. Golden sand, crescent-shaped, clear and refreshing water, lush and bright green vegetation, and it seems to go on and on. No wonder it is known to be one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Ghana…and you have it almost all to yourself! A small path at the end of the beach leads you through the rainforest to the small village of Cape Three Points, a remote fishing and farming village famous mostly for its location i. After a 30 minutes walk from the lodge, you find yourself not only at the southernmost tip of all of West Africa but also the closest land point to the centre of the world at 4 degrees latitude and 2 degrees longitude…impressive. This location has obviously made Cape Three Points and its lighthouse a major landmark for navigators. Looking north from the tip of Ghana. Looking out East towards Escape 3 Points. The walk back will be as pleasant as the walk out and made even more beautiful in the golden hour of a late afternoon setting sun, colors popping out everywhere. Fall is prime nesting season for the endangered sea turtles and Escape 3 Points is closely watching and protecting their eggs from predators to make sure the little ones get into the sea safely. I had the wonderful thrill of holding a newborn in my hands before we all ran to the beach and released it, watching it disappear, swallowed by the first wave… Truly magical evening. What Cape Coast is mostly famous for though is its role at the heart of the transatlantic slave trade and its castle where some of the worst atrocities of that era were committed. Frightening to think that at any given time throughout the 18th century, before the slave trade was abolished in , there would have been up to 1, captured men and women awaiting in the castle dungeons to be shipped abroad. The solid fortress is now a World Heritage Site and its location on the edge of town overlooking the coast is way more attractive than it should be given its dark history. The visit in of Barack and Michelle Obama made the Castle almost more famous than it already was. Today you can witness from the old ramparts the late afternoon activity of local fishermen…. A major feature of the Castle is the large pentagonal courtyard overlooking the sea and where all the slaves would be fed together before returning to the dungeons. Most of them would not survive to see it. Passing through these doors today leads you right in the middle of the fishing port with colorful boats and flags all around. When you get hungry, down the street from the Castle is Baobab Vegetarian Restaurant which offers delicious and healthy vegetarian meals, snacks, and fresh juices, a lot of them including the super nutritious Moringa leaves. It is where I got addicted to Bissap, a popular and also super healthy hibiscus drink. Black Beauty aka eggplant empanada…. Red Red. Coast to Coast is another very good restaurant, this one right across from the Castle and serving Ghanaian specialties. I indulged in one of my favorites — grilled fish covered in Palavar sauce served with boiled yams. And some like Charlotte give new meaning to bringing your child to the office…! I was lucky enough to be in charge of taking their portrait and shooting around their shops, giving me the best excuse to explore Cape Coast and meet as many Mamas as possible, truly a highlight of my stay here. A sunset stroll is always a good bet and here will emphasize the pastel-colored colonial buildings and numerous churches such as the Methodist Church below, near the Castle. Here you can grab a front row seat at Oasis Beach Resort and watch dancers training, kids playing, and the incredible team work needed to bring a fishing boat back on the shore. Kakum is essentially square miles of protected rainforest and the one cool thing about it is the Canopy Walkway — the only one in Africa apparently. The meters long suspended wooden walkway links six tree platforms elevated some 40m above the forest floor — definitely not for those with a fear of heights! Just enjoy the scenery and the flock of butterflies flying all around you. The height of the rainforest is truly stunning. Nearby Kakum, another advertised spot which is also not quite worth the detour is Hans Cottage Botel. Visitors to Mole National Park in Northern Ghana can combine their visit with a stop at two authentic villages near the park: Larabanga and Mognori. Thought to be originally founded in it has often been restored since , the Larabanga Mosque is built out of mud and sticks in the West-Sudanese style, a somewhat peculiar and inspiring sight. Besides the mosque, Larabanga is a fascinating place and a volunteer guide will happily show you around so you can catch a glimpse of life in the village. Meeting with the village chief. For those not venturing further north in Ghana, the village offers the most southerly accessible examples of traditional flat-roofed mud huts. The markings on the walls were their original calendars. Seeds drying in the sun. Ackee fruit. Boiling roasted and grounded shea nuts for the preparation of shea butter which the village sell to tourists and other markets as a source of revenue. The butter oils which float to the top of the cauldron are collected and left to cool and solidify, resulting in the creamy and golden shea butter as the final product. The road from Larabanga to Mole about 5 km leads past the park to the small village of Mognori. Mognori was essentially created 10 years ago to offer the local community a chance to get involved into the tourist activity surrounding the park and use the proceeds to help develop the village and better their lives. This well-run ecotourism project is worth a visit for anyone going to Mole. Taking the village tour with one of the extremely knowledgeable guides will give you the opportunity to experience village life and how people spend their days. A family compound is usually formed of a series of traditional mud huts surrounding a common yard. The house for the sacred pigeons. Flat-roofed huts have many uses, including sleeping on the roof when it gets too hot inside and sun-drying the crops such as chilis…. Okra pods drying in the sun. Shea nuts in their shells and after being cracked opened. Shea butter for sale. The village gas-powered grinding mill. Small calabash are cleverly used when dried to store and sell the shea butter in an attractive container. Cattle roam freely around the village. Giant trees are essential to offer shade from the scorching sun and an ideal place for their midday siesta. Africa Ghana Travels Elmina — a fascinating fishing village December 10, You can even opt to walk to town on the beach in roughly minutes. The Portuguese church in the middle of the courtyard A special cell marked with a skull above the door was used to imprison slaves who rebelled against the Portuguese. Boat in the making Eagle flying over the harbour Once out of the castle, you can cross over the lagoon and explore the busy city center. The old Dutch Cemetery Posuban shrines can be found in the streets around the castle and are unique to the region. Street scene Before leaving I made sure to grab my favorite street snack, kelewele — fried plantains with spices, usually ginger and cayenne pepper…completely addictive! Most dishes in Ghana contains a variation of the same staple ingredients: Plantains both ripe and green , cassava and yams makes up the starchy base for most dishes. Red Red First-time visitors to Ghana are often introduced to Ghanaian cuisine with this dish, probably the most popular with foreigners. Remove and cover plantains as they are finished — soft and slightly browned. Bean Stew red red Preparation: Boil the beans until soft or soak overnight. Keep warm on low heat. Mix well and deposit the mixture in spoonfuls into the saucepan. Light soup While Red Red and Palava Sauce are fairly popular with locals and even more with foreigners, the most common Ghanaian dish is a soup eaten with either banku, fufu, or kenkey and a protein. Serve with fufu, banku, or kenkey. Wash and cut cassava into chunks and plantains into pieces. Once all the plantain has been pounded a little, remove from the mortar and set aside. Instructions for pounding the fufu: Hold the pounding stick in your left hand to pound the ingredients. Instructions for eating fufu: This dish is eaten with the right hand only. You are supposed to swallow the fufu without chewing it. Serve with fufu. Bon Appetit! The reception French signs adorned the landscape, pointing the way to the beach Boulevard de la Plage … …the restaurant Avenue de la Fringale , etc. High Times House Perfectly spread out on the property, the hand built chalets offer privacy and a quiet stay. I stayed in the Anansi House — aka Spider House. Vegetarian pasta dish from the garden Roasted chicken with rice, Escape style Freshly-caught grilled lobster or what one should always have for dinner at a place like this… With my friend Tara who was visiting me from New York for a week. Looking north from the tip of Ghana Looking out East towards Escape 3 Points The walk back will be as pleasant as the walk out and made even more beautiful in the golden hour of a late afternoon setting sun, colors popping out everywhere. Vestiges from the past are to be found on every corner. Today you can witness from the old ramparts the late afternoon activity of local fishermen… … and the occasional football match. Red Red Coast to Coast is another very good restaurant, this one right across from the Castle and serving Ghanaian specialties. Matilda is well surrounded, working on her next batch of bright sun hats. Elizabeth showcases the colorful batik quilt she just finished sewing together. Juliana is dying fabric from up in the hills, ready for batiking later that day. Gloria is all fashion, sewing shirts and dresses from her tiny street front shop. Fort William , originally a lighthouse, towers above the whole town. Heading out West now… beautiful beaches and more history on the horizon! Meeting with the village chief For those not venturing further north in Ghana, the village offers the most southerly accessible examples of traditional flat-roofed mud huts. Children from Larabanga attend school in Mole National Park. The house for the sacred pigeons Inside a house, looking up at the ceiling made of bamboo and straw. Flat-roofed huts have many uses, including sleeping on the roof when it gets too hot inside and sun-drying the crops such as chilis….. Okra pods drying in the sun Shea nuts in their shells and after being cracked opened. Shea butter for sale Smoking fish is the preferred way of preservation. The village gas-powered grinding mill They maintain a garden and besides chilies and tomatoes also grow quite a bit of tobacco. Cattle roam freely around the village Giant trees are essential to offer shade from the scorching sun and an ideal place for their midday siesta. Older Posts. 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