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The walls of seaweed first started washing over the white-sand beaches of Tulum, Mexico, in They came from deep in the Atlantic and across the Caribbean, darkening the neon-blue water. Some of the seaweed was puke brown, while the rest was dark red, and in the summer it was so thick that swimming was impossible. Dead fish and other sea creatures were mixed in, and the piles on the beach smelled like rotten eggs. Where was it coming from? Development in the Amazon was leaching more fertilizer into increasingly warmer oceans — maybe that was it. Tulum was busier than ever, but some hotels were reporting cancellations and disappointed customers. The seaweed was a problem elsewhere in the Caribbean, but for Tulum, which presented on Instagram as a perfect paradise, the threat was existential. The seaweed had doubled in volume since , and was expected to be the worst year yet. It is silent. He gawked at a brunette walking by in a red bikini. But not everybody gets it. There is no electricity on the beach, so diesel generators groan all day and night to run the air conditioners that customers demand. The beach has no adequate sewer system, and waste has been leaching into the water supply beneath Tulum and out to the ocean, killing the coral reef. The new dump was supposed to last five years but was already overflowing after 18 months. The beach and the jungle stretching away from the coast are dotted with construction sites, and small hotels started by hippies chasing a dream are being pushed out by large developers who seem to anticipate no end to the growing number of tourists hoping to see what Tulum is all about. What happened to Tulum has happened before. Ibiza gave itself over to the DJs , and Mykonos fell prey to the Instagram hordes , but both places had a good run before the fall. Tulum, however, completed the full evolution of a trendy destination in record time: the arrival, in order, of backpackers, hippies, rich hippies, scenesters, and eventually bachelor parties. That success led the government to rebrand 80 miles of beachfront to the south as the Riviera Maya, including what was once a quiet fishing village called Playa del Carmen, where there are now four Starbucks within ten blocks. Tulum, meanwhile, was little more than a truck stop a few hours south, with a Mayan fortress on the beach where tour buses disgorged visitors for an afternoon. Fashion photographers used it for shoots, and whispers spread. Coqui Coqui, a boutique-hotel club opened in by an Argentine model and his designer girlfriend, started attracting A-list celebrities looking for a quiet hideaway. Just down the road, Nuno Silva, a Portuguese lawyer who had come to Tulum searching for something new, opened Uno Astrolodge, a beloved commune that gave Tulum a spiritual core, with cacao ceremonies, yoga, and nudity. Silva, meanwhile, found what he was looking for in the Mayan calendar, and in December , when it predicted the apocalypse, he held a seven-day Galactic Fest in anticipation of the rapture. But around that time, Derek Klein — no relation to Bobby — was trying to open a cocktail bar and restaurant across the beach road from Coqui Coqui. The detoxers needed somewhere to retox, after all, and Gitano opened at the end of with a disco ball, a neon sign, and Orlando Bloom in attendance. Klein partnered with James Gardner, who had been pushed out of a company he started in New York that built websites for fashion brands. He said that Leo, a local sitar player, had a gig that night. I found him surveying the scene from his table. The Belgian was leaning back with his leg, in a cast, on the table. A server carrying a smoking goblet of copal, a local bark, went by in the other. Gardner said it kept the mosquitoes away while having the benefit of looking cool. Other locals told me that copal helps mask how bad the septic tanks can smell at some places in Tulum on a busy night. There were women in spangly heels accompanied by men with expensively ripped clothes and perfect teeth; there was also a middle-aged man in an Under Armour polo and a bald man at the bar wearing a T-shirt that read SEND NUDES. Gitano had just celebrated its fifth anniversary, but Derek Klein left the company in He has since opened a hotel called Casa Pueblo in town, which is connected to the beach by a single road that cuts through several miles of jungle. While the town became increasingly developed, it maintained a more rustic charm. Her other holdings around Tulum include a boutique hotel called Amansala Chica, another hotel in town, a clothing shop, and numerous empty lots waiting to be developed. When Perlman joined Gitano, both she and Gardner agreed that the place needed to get bigger. To do so, they built the Jungle Room , a concrete structure at the back of the bar designed to look like a colonial ruin. Gitano had been among the first places to expand into the jungle side of the beach road, and the growth had irked locals. The Jungle Room project extended toward the mangroves behind Gitano, which are an important filtration system for the underground rivers beneath Tulum and are protected by Mexican and international law. Gardner said that they had not destroyed any mangroves and that Gitano wanted to be a leader not just in taste and style but in sustainability, too. He said they were making various environmentally friendly upgrades and also pointed out that they had adorned the trees surrounding the restaurant with lightbulbs. Around one of the branches, the wall was beginning to crack. Early one morning, I went to the Mayan ruins at the north end of Tulum Beach, where hundreds of tourists were already streaming in from a parking lot. Two million people visit the site every year, and the government has stopped allowing people to climb the structure. Walking south from the ruins, you can see the full sweep of Tulum in You little slut. A group of three young people could be kicking a pile of seaweed out of the way to clear the frame for a perfect photo, or an older man in a navy-blue Speedo might be lounging on the phone at Posada Margherita, a low-key Italian restaurant, telling someone to buy shares of an index fund that tracks companies in the chemical manufacturing, mining, and timber industries. A few days into the New Year, I walked down the beach road as a parade of taxis carried passed-out passengers smearing glitter across the back seats. It was 10 a. When I arrived at Ahau , another hotel known for its parties, the faint thump of house music that provides Tulum with much of its soundtrack wafted over the handful of people who were awake for breakfast. Palazuelos is best known in Mexico as an actor who plays the villain in telenovelas, but in Tulum he is known in part for his role in the saga that shuttered Coqui Coqui and Uno Astrolodge. After breakfast, he put on a pair of Gucci sunglasses and we walked the beach with one of his three bodyguards trailing behind. I asked if the protection was necessary. The cleansing, or the betrayal, which took place in , had been simmering for decades. No one spent much time cross-checking records for what was largely uninhabited jungle, but as tourists and their money arrived, several powerful families from elsewhere in Mexico began claiming that, in fact, the land was theirs. The paperwork was questionable, but some Tulum hotel owners ended up buying their properties two or three times, just to be safe. Others were kicked off their land. In , a lawyer contesting the evictions was shot to death in his office. Palazuelos dealt with several claims to his properties, fighting off one challenge thanks to his father, a prominent Mexico City lawyer, who was himself the son of a former judge. But in , the Schiavones, a wealthy family from Monterrey, said they owned the land under Ahau. Palazuelos, who was the president of the Tulum hotel association, started working with the Schiavones. He approached other hotel owners, including Nuno Silva from Uno Astrolodge, and urged them to make similar deals. On June 17, , Silva woke up to news that hundreds of men, some with machetes, were making their way down the beach, forcing tourists out of their hotels and demanding, with the help of official court orders, that owners vacate their properties. Silva told his guests to pack up and leave, then parked a truck against the front gate of his hotel while his staff gathered in a circle to sing a Hindu devotional hymn. The evictions left scars for many Tulum business owners, who remain fearful of losing their properties. As we walked the beach, Palazuelos was unapologetic and pointed out several other properties he said faced eviction; one was on land being claimed by a general in the Mexican Army. The property there, some of which was mangrove, would become wildly valuable if the government allowed landowners to build on what was once untouched jungle. Before moving to Mexico, Wilmes was a competitive bodybuilder operating a cardboard-packaging company in Germany; he met Marc Levy, a construction manager from Arizona, while backpacking in Central America. They bought some land just outside town, built a house, and listed it on Airbnb. It did so well that within a few weeks, Levy was asking friends for money so they could build a new one. Return on investment has become the most common amenity advertised on the dozens of billboards for new condo developments around Tulum. Much of the activity is centered on Aldea Zama, a planned community between the town and the beach. Beginning in the aughts, the Mexican real-estate company behind it bought hundreds of acres from the government, much of it at below-market prices. Only a small portion of the development has been built thus far, which gives it the feel of a ghost town, with condo buildings popping up here and there along wide, winding roads. There are still plans for a golf course and rumors that Faena, the extravagant Miami hotel chain, was planning a large project. The rest of the jungle between the beach and the town is now a free-for-all. One afternoon, I had lunch with R. Tulum moved to Mexico from Texas in Tulum said. Tulum pulled out a map that displayed the thousands of lots that have been sold off in the jungle between the town and the beach. He pointed to another area that has been designated for low-density construction because the underground river threatens its stability. He had already sold eight lots in It was January Tulum was especially excited by a connection to an American investor new to the Tulum market. Tulum told me before introducing me to the developer, who is in his mids and spent the past decade working in wealth management in New York and Hong Kong. Building a real-estate empire in Mexico comes with its dangers, and he tries to keep a low profile. In the U. One afternoon, I met in town with a group of environmental activists who had organized under the umbrella Red Tulum Sostenible, which exists largely to provide moral support. It was difficult to hear any birds at all on the beach road over the thrum of the diesel generators. The activists from Red Tulum have made only fitful progress. Mauricio Jervis, a local chef who runs a composting service, managed to persuade only 30 of the hundreds of hotels and restaurants in Tulum to sign up, even though all it required was passing along an extra cent charge to each customer. The trouble is that less than 10 percent of the town is connected to the municipal sewer system. In January, a documentary called The Dark Side of Tulum was released with footage shot by cave divers of feces floating in the rivers. While Mexico has relatively strict environmental laws, corruption is rampant and enforcement is lax. Some developers pay bribes to get around various laws, like those restricting how much they can build on a lot. The first rule posted on a government sign instructing visitors on how to interact with sea turtles is a request not to sit on them. But instead of installing the panels and building that into the cost of the condos, the choice had been given to each buyer. Only two have taken them up on it. Tulum is a transient boomtown, and even the Mexicans who live there come mostly from somewhere else for work. That has left only the committed group of activists trying to tackle various problems. But they are outnumbered, and no one is completely pure. Self-described hippies have investment properties. One woman complained to me about her failed effort to get more hotels on the beach to adopt solar power, then told me about the recent discovery of what she believed was a small Mayan temple at a construction site. Eugenio Barbachano, the tourism minister, took a roundabout path into government. Barbachano forged his own path, spending much of his 20s in New York, working to bring AriZona Iced Tea to Mexico and living the life of a successful gay man in Manhattan, where he met another set of real-estate heirs. Barbachano had a real affection for Tulum, having fallen for a Connecticut Wasp there, whom he eventually married at the Maidstone Club in East Hampton. The marriage fell apart in , and when he emerged from the heartbreak, he decided to enter public service. Barbachano threw himself into the job and was learning both the power and challenges of governance. A few days earlier, during an EDM show at a venue in the jungle called Zamna, a man had been found shot and killed. The obvious presence of drugs is a relatively new phenomenon in Tulum and makes many locals nervous. One restaurant owner told me that last year a person involved in the drug trade demanded he pay a cut of his revenue every month in order to stay open, a story I heard from several business owners. Other places seemed to have come to an uncomfortable peace, and there were dealers at various spots in town and on the beach. But his property around a cenote hosted one of the biggest new additions to the festival calendar this year. The new government had been in office for a hundred days, and Barbachano told me he was happy with some of his progress. Absolutely not. Do we have the best rates of any place on earth? You bet your ass. Do I have a lot to smile about? Am I the smiling type? But the problems are becoming harder to ignore, and there are certain signs that the Tulum bubble is gently deflating. Some hotels are reporting more vacancies than usual, and so many new condos are for rent around town that some had to lower their rates. When Mr. And at least some people seem to be looking for the next thing. Bobby Klein heard a new voice telling him to start an online-education portal called the Wisdom and Mystery School. Nico Wilmes told me Los Amigos is designing a hotel to be built on the moon. A few people were thinking of moving to upstate New York. The most common prediction I heard was Bacalar, two hours south, on an inland lake known as the Lagoon of Seven Colors for its varying shades of blue water. Tulum was working on a deal for a acre project nearby. In an age of rising seas and seaweed, could lagoons be the new beaches? Bad news: Several Bacalar residents told me the cycle that overtook Tulum was starting there already. Land was getting expensive, and there was no infrastructure to keep up with the pace of new arrivals. So much contamination was already leaching into the lake that, on a good day, it was now the Lagoon of Three, Maybe Four, Colors. In a few years, the colors would likely be gone. Leo, the sitar player, flew in to play a set. But it was enough of a success that Gardner and Perlman decided to open a permanent spot across the street in the James Hotel. Gardner told me they were in negotiations to open more Gitanos elsewhere. Tulum would always have a special place in his heart, but one stretch of beach could only hold so much ambition. Subscribe Now! Already a subscriber? Log in or link your magazine subscription. Account Profile. Sign Out. Photo: Sam Youkilis. The crowd on the beach. A massage tent on the beach. A seaweed dump. A street performer. An EDM festival in the Tulum jungle. Eugenio Barbachano left and Mr. The beach by the Tulum Mayan ruins. The town landfill in the jungle. Tourists at the Mayan ruins. Tags: tulum mexico culture travel influencers tourism gitano new york magazine best of the cut More. Most Viewed Stories. Best of The Cut.
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