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Though the city is mostly rebuilt and thriving, on the walls facing the river and the old front lines, the cosmetic damage of bullet holes and shell impacts remains. From the path, you also have a clear view of the spots along the Trebevic Mountains overlooking the city where Bosnian Serb snipers and artillery units built positions to lay seige on the mostly Bosnian Muslim population that they terrorised for nearly three years. Twenty-five years after the war was ended by US and NATO soldiers, and a new state was formed in the Balkans, some people in Bosnia have begun to see telltale signs of a new conflict. On Friday he plans to instruct his Parliament to undo several ties that have kept the Republika Srpska alongside the rest of Bosnia for the last quarter of a century, such as leaving key legal and security arrangements, as well as the national army. Most alarmingly, Dodik wants his own army at the same moment that Bosnian Serb politicians have decided to reject laws that make genocide denial a crime. Is it full autonomy for the Republika Srpska? Or an eventual union with Serbia? Or an as-yet-unclear plan to assume full power in the Republika Srpska that would leave him above the law for life? It could be as simple as Dodik fearing an existence without a security service loyal only to him. Dodik claims his Alliance of Independent Social Democrats SNSD is ready to introduce the legislation to withdraw from key courts and the security services, all moves that essentially violate year-old peace agreements that created a country. People here remember that the last time Bosnian Serbs tried to shift some borders and increase their political autonomy, over , people died in a war that created the most refugees in Europe since World War II. The state of Bosnia and Herzegovina BiH , home to 3. Endless dissertations have been written about the history of this peace even as it continues to play out. And while dysfunction, posturing and hinted threats come from all three sides, Bosnian Serb, Croat and Muslims resent their own fickle corrupt leadership as much as their supposed enemies. What feels different this time is that Dodik appears willing to escalate the mess in a new and dangerous way. In July, he and other Bosnian Serb politicians rejected language that would have made it a crime to deny genocide happened during the war. No one can deny a genocide took place, considering all three sides variously conducted mass killings and ethnic cleansing against each other. That crime and the failure of the international community to stop it was so well documented that an entire Dutch government had to resign over it. But now the RS government is demanding the legal right to say it never happened, and everyone is worried what that might mean. Making it acceptable to argue the genocide, along with the proposed moves to leave the army, as well as the court system that runs both the federal police and national intelligence services, would starkly diminish the power of the post-Dayton state. At least. I was there to talk to its venerable head, Jakob Finci. Finci had stayed during the siege despite ample opportunities to flee to anywhere safe he wanted. He managed to save one of the oldest Sephardic Torahs from Bosnian Serb artillery fire, became an ambassador to Switzerland, and knows world leaders like Bill Clinton, Tony Blair and a dozen others. He even tried to run for president of Bosnia, offering himself as a compromise sectarian candidate figuring nobody would be threatened by the estimated to 1, Jews living in the country. Nearly 80, Finci still comes into the office every day, and on the day of our meeting, the first day of Hanukkah, he was in a typically good mood. He tried to start with the positives. The Serbs might have been outnumbered in the s, but they outgunned everyone else until the very end. Finally after a bit of speculation, Finci leaned in closer with an impish grin and a conspiratorial tone. And with that, he had to go meet the Turkish ambassador to BiH, who himself was rather concerned about what everything meant. Their energy and anger has instead been focused upon the endemic corruption in all three sides — Serb, Croat and Bosniak — of the various governments strangling the economy. The billions in international aid has dried up, leaving voracious local bosses to shake down the locals more and more. Nobody can afford the bribes themselves, so you end up taking on members of the political mafias as partners. But even then you still pay. But here no matter what you do, some new guy comes and demands money. It never ends. Real estate development gets clobbered by crooks in Sarajevo, where only those with government connections and deep-pocketed foreign-investor backing can survive the demands for bribes. All of this is controlled by local strongmen loyal to Dodik, who have little interest in adhering to environmental standards or contributing to the public purse. Standing alongside a highway in the rural RS one afternoon watching trucks pass by loaded with fresh-cut timber, one Bosnian Serb said that perhaps one in four of the trucks was from a legal cut and would pay taxes; the rest were almost certainly illegal and headed over the nearby border with Serbia for processing or export. What does scare some is an increasingly authoritarian leader in the RS capital of Banja Luka threatening to undo much of the central authority keeping the peace because cutting the army in half can only mean a weaker BiH unable to keep its parts in line. So people have begun to think the unthinkable once again. The simple reason: Such ideas tend to encourage hyper-nationalists and are perceived as rewarding military aggression and ethnic cleansing. Latal, of the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network, cuts the international community more of a break than Cerimajic and thinks local actors are overall more responsible for the recent tensions. Terrorists could too easily blend in. Why would these guys call some street cop across the country in Sarajevo? Does the FBI just call up street cops for coffee? The caller suggested they meet near his police station, and Miokovic, confused and intrigued, agreed. What he heard would not only change his life and take his right eye but also eventually reshape the region. Then I will come to the new police station. The next day, Friday, only Miokovic and one other Bosnian Serb policeman came to work. All the other Serbs had left. And as bad as the entire war was through the country, those first months were brutal before the Bosniaks could form an army. They faced Bosnian Serb paramilitaries heavily armed with Yugoslav National Army weapons that almost overwhelmed the lightly armed ad-hoc Bosniak mix of police, some former soldiers, gangsters and anyone else with a gun. The Grbavica neighbourhood near where we met is where the Bosnian Serb fighters managed to enter the city, leading to house-to-house fighting, where the killing was face to face. Two months into the war, I was six metres from a Serb — I still see his face — and both our guns were up, he fired first and missed. But the ricochet hit me in the face, took my eye and settled a few millimetres from my brain. My last thought for the month I was in the coma was that shooting me was the last thing he ever did. When he recovered, Miokovic went on to be a homicide detective for the rest of the siege, where he would treat the killing of civilians by sniper fire or artillery shells as homicides, before insisting on testifying at the war crime tribunals in public and under his own name. One night I drove three hours out from Sarajevo through darkly wooded hills to Srebrenica, whose forests hide the evidence of a massacre in shallow mass graves. He would go on to serve in the Bosnian defence ministry and also work as a journalist. So they will eventually re-form this army of Ratko Mladic. Without these people working together in an army, the idea of Bosnia will become too weak. By Mitchell Prothero. By Nathaniel Janowitz. By Robyn Wilson. By Max Daly. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE.

48 Hours in Sarajevo, the City Where East Meets West

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Latest updates: Natural disasters and climate — updated information on flooding and landslides. Exercise a high degree of caution in Bosnia and Herzegovina due to crime and the risk of unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance in rural and isolated mountainous areas. Back to top. Unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance continue to pose a risk, particularly in isolated mountainous areas and in the countryside. Petty crime, such as pickpocketing and purse snatching, occurs, particularly in large urban centres such as Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Tuzla and Mostar. Criminals often target foreigners in crowded tourist areas and on public transportation. Home and vehicle break-ins are common, particularly in Sarajevo and on Trebevic mountain. Organized crime is prevalent in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Random acts of armed violence occur as a result, particularly in Sarajevo. Demonstrations may occur. Even peaceful demonstrations can turn violent at any time. They can also lead to disruptions to traffic and public transportation. Mass gatherings large-scale events. Bosnia and Herzegovina has a disproportionately high rate of death and injury due to motor vehicle accidents. Road conditions and road safety can vary greatly throughout the country. Poorly lit roads and poorly maintained vehicles pose a risk to tourists. Extreme weather conditions, such as dense fog, excess snow and black ice also pose risks. During the winter months, many roads are particularly hazardous, particularly secondary roads and mountain roads which may be blocked by landslides. During the summer, traffic is frequently stopped to enable landmine clearance and road repairs. Exercise increased caution on public transportation due to pickpockets and those posing as ticket controllers. We do not make assessments on the compliance of foreign domestic airlines with international safety standards. Information about foreign domestic airlines. Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. We have obtained the information on this page from the Bosnian authorities. It can, however, change at any time. Verify this information with the Foreign Representatives in Canada. Before you travel, check with your transportation company about passport requirements. Your passport must be valid for at least three months beyond the date you expect to leave from Bosnia and Herzegovina. Official travel. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination. Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Tourist visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days Business visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days Student visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days. Ensure that your passport is stamped by customs when you enter. The absence of an entry stamp could create difficulties when trying to leave the country. If you plan to visit for 3 or more days, you must register with local police within 48 hours of your arrival in the country. Otherwise, you need to fill the registration form and submit it at the closest police station. Registration of aliens - Service for Foreigners Affairs. Children travelling alone must carry a notarized letter of permission from their parent s or a guardian s. For children travelling with only one parent or guardian, authorities may ask for a letter of permission from the parent or guardian not travelling. If the accompanying parent has sole custody, border authorities may require supporting documentation. Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever vaccines section. This section contains information on possible health risks and restrictions regularly found or ongoing in the destination. Follow this advice to lower your risk of becoming ill while travelling. Not all risks are listed below. Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic preferably 6 weeks before you travel to get personalized health advice and recommendations. Be sure that your routine vaccinations , as per your province or territory , are up-to-date before travelling, regardless of your destination. Some of these vaccinations include measles-mumps-rubella MMR , diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio, varicella chickenpox , influenza and others. You may be at risk for preventable diseases while travelling in this destination. Talk to a travel health professional about which medications or vaccines may be right for you, based on your destination and itinerary. Yellow fever is a disease caused by a flavivirus from the bite of an infected mosquito. Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection. It is recommended that you contact the nearest diplomatic or consular office of the destination s you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements. About Yellow Fever. Yellow Fever Vaccination Centres in Canada. There is a risk of hepatitis A in this destination. It is a disease of the liver. People can get hepatitis A if they ingest contaminated food or water, eat foods prepared by an infectious person, or if they have close physical contact such as oral-anal sex with an infectious person, although casual contact among people does not spread the virus. Practise safe food and water precautions and wash your hands often. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers to areas where hepatitis A is present. Tick-borne encephalitis TBE is a risk in some areas of this destination. It is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system brain and spinal cord. It is spread to humans by the bite of infected ticks or occasionally when unpasteurized milk products are consumed. Travellers to areas where TBE is found may be at higher risk during April to November, and the risk is highest for people who hike or camp in forested areas. Protect yourself from tick bites. The vaccine is not available in Canada. It may be available in the destination you are travelling to. Hepatitis B is a risk in every destination. It is a viral liver disease that is easily transmitted from one person to another through exposure to blood and body fluids containing the hepatitis B virus. Travellers who may be exposed to blood or other bodily fluids e. Hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for all travellers. Prevent hepatitis B infection by practicing safe sex, only using new and sterile drug equipment, and only getting tattoos and piercings in settings that follow public health regulations and standards. Measles is a highly contagious viral disease. It can spread quickly from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air. Anyone who is not protected against measles is at risk of being infected with it when travelling internationally. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are fully protected against measles. It can spread from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air. It is recommended that all eligible travellers complete a COVID vaccine series along with any additional recommended doses in Canada before travelling. Evidence shows that vaccines are very effective at preventing severe illness, hospitalization and death from COVID While vaccination provides better protection against serious illness, you may still be at risk of infection from the virus that causes COVID Anyone who has not completed a vaccine series is at increased risk of being infected with the virus that causes COVID and is at greater risk for severe disease when travelling internationally. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are adequately protected against COVID The best way to protect yourself from seasonal influenza flu is to get vaccinated every year. Get the flu shot at least 2 weeks before travelling. The flu vaccine available in one hemisphere may only offer partial protection against the flu in the other hemisphere. The flu virus spreads from person to person when they cough or sneeze or by touching objects and surfaces that have been contaminated with the virus. Clean your hands often and wear a mask if you have a fever or respiratory symptoms. In this destination, rabies may be present in some wildlife species, including bats. Rabies is a deadly disease that spreads to humans primarily through bites or scratches from an infected animal. If you are bitten or scratched by an animal while travelling, immediately wash the wound with soap and clean water and see a health care professional. Before travel, discuss rabies vaccination with a health care professional. It may be recommended for travellers who will be working directly with wildlife. Many illnesses can be caused by eating food or drinking beverages contaminated by bacteria, parasites, toxins, or viruses, or by swimming or bathing in contaminated water. Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water. Risk of developing travellers' diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor standards of hygiene and sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions. The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration drinking lots of fluids. Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling. Many diseases are spread by the bites of infected insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas or flies. When travelling to areas where infected insects may be present:. To learn more about how you can reduce your risk of infection and disease caused by bites, both at home and abroad, visit our insect bite prevention page. Some infections, such as rabies and influenza, can be shared between humans and animals. Certain types of activities may increase your chance of contact with animals, such as travelling in rural or forested areas, camping, hiking, and visiting wet markets places where live animals are slaughtered and sold or caves. Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, livestock pigs, cows , monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats, and to avoid eating undercooked wild game. Reduce your risk of colds, the flu and other illnesses by:. Sexually transmitted infections STIs , HIV , and mpox are spread through blood and bodily fluids; use condoms, practise safe sex, and limit your number of sexual partners. Check with your local public health authority pre-travel to determine your eligibility for mpox vaccine. Good health care is only available in major cities. Quality of care varies greatly throughout the country. Make sure you get travel insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation and hospital stays. The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety. Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a travel health kit , especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres. Learn about what you should do and how we can help if you are arrested or detained abroad. This enables a Canadian imprisoned in Bosnia and Herzegovina to request a transfer to a Canadian prison to complete a sentence. The transfer requires the agreement of both Canadian and Bosnia and Herzegovina authorities. This process can take a long time, and there is no guarantee that the transfer will be approved by either or both sides. You must carry photo identification, such as a passport, as you are required to show photo ID to local authorities upon request. Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are severe. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines. Bosnian law does not prohibit sexual acts between individuals of the same sex. However, homosexuality is not widely accepted in Bosnian society. Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics. If you are a Canadian citizen, but also a citizen of Bosnia and Herzegovina, our ability to offer you consular services may be limited while you're there. It can help parents with the return of children who have been removed to or retained in certain countries in violation of custody rights. The convention applies between Canada and Bosnia and Herzegovina. If your child was wrongfully taken to, or is being held in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and if the applicable conditions are met, you may apply for the return of your child to the Bosnia and Herzegovina court. If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies. Be aware that Canadian consular officials cannot interfere in private legal matters or in another country's judicial affairs. Photography of military or police installations, vehicles and personnel, as well as hydroelectric dams, is prohibited, unless you have obtained prior permission from local authorities. International Driving Permit. If you are entering Bosnia and Herzegovina in a vehicle, you must have valid insurance. Not all borders have offices that sell border insurance. Travellers are advised to use the crossings at:. Vehicles must be equipped with winter tires from November 15 to April Additionally, you must carry chains, which are required on certain roads during heavy snow. Speed limits may not be clearly visible in rural areas. Police can collect traffic fines on the spot. In case of an accident, you must remain at the scene and not move your vehicle until the police arrive. Penalties for driving under the influence of alcohol or drugs are severe. The legal blood alcohol limit is 0. Passengers under the influence of alcohol cannot sit in the front seat. Convicted offenders can expect heavy fines. Severe flooding in the spring or after heavy rains can hamper overland travel and reduce the provision of essential services. Roads and bridges may become impassable. Flooding and landslides in October caused significant damage in the centre of the country, particularly near the town of Jablanica. Certain rail lines and roads remain closed. Bush and forest fires are common in the summer, but are generally contained within inaccessible areas. The air quality in areas near active fires may deteriorate due to heavy smoke. In case of a major fire:. For emergency consular assistance, call the embassy of Canada to Hungary, in Budapest, and follow the instructions. The decision to travel is your choice and you are responsible for your personal safety abroad. We take the safety and security of Canadians abroad very seriously and provide credible and timely information in our Travel Advice to enable you to make well-informed decisions regarding your travel abroad. The content on this page is provided for information only. While we make every effort to give you correct information, it is provided on an 'as is' basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. The Government of Canada does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information provided. If you need consular assistance while abroad, we will make every effort to help you. However, there may be constraints that will limit the ability of the Government of Canada to provide services. Learn more about consular services. There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Be very cautious at all times, monitor local media and follow the instructions of local authorities. Your safety and security could be at risk. You should think about your need to travel to this country, territory or region based on family or business requirements, knowledge of or familiarity with the region, and other factors. If you are already there, think about whether you really need to be there. If you do not need to be there, you should think about leaving. You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Your personal safety and security are at great risk. If you are already there, you should think about leaving if it is safe to do so. Exercise a high degree of caution. Latest updates: Natural disasters and climate — updated information on flooding and landslides Last updated: October 17, ET. On this page Risk level Safety and security Entry and exit requirements Health Laws and culture Natural disasters and climate Need help? Risk level Bosnia and Herzegovina - Exercise a high degree of caution Exercise a high degree of caution in Bosnia and Herzegovina due to crime and the risk of unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance in rural and isolated mountainous areas. Safety and security Landmines Unmarked landmines and unexploded ordnance continue to pose a risk, particularly in isolated mountainous areas and in the countryside. Stay on main roads and paved surfaces Avoid abandoned houses and buildings Travel only during daylight hours Do not touch war relics and unknown items. Ensure that your belongings, including your passport and other travel documents, are secure at all times Avoid showing signs of affluence, such as jewellery, and carrying large sums of cash Avoid isolated and poorly lit areas after dark Violent Crime Organized crime is prevalent in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Terrorism There is a threat of terrorism. Terrorist attacks could occur at any time. Targets could include: government buildings, including schools places of worship airports and other transportation hubs and networks public areas such as tourist attractions, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, shopping centres, markets, hotels and other sites frequented by foreigners Always be aware of your surroundings when in public places. Demonstrations Demonstrations may occur. Avoid areas where demonstrations and large gatherings are taking place Follow the instructions of local authorities Monitor local media for information on ongoing demonstrations Mass gatherings large-scale events Road safety Bosnia and Herzegovina has a disproportionately high rate of death and injury due to motor vehicle accidents. Drivers do not respect traffic laws and are known to speed. Drinking and driving is prevalent. Many secondary roads have no service stations. Undertake travel on secondary roads only with a vehicle in excellent mechanical condition Ensure that you have sufficient fuel, food and water supplies Public transportation Exercise increased caution on public transportation due to pickpockets and those posing as ticket controllers. Buses Local tram and bus services are reliable. Inter-city bus services are also widely available. Trains Local and inter-city rail lines are reliable. Lock compartment doors from the inside when travelling on an overnight train. Taxis Taxi service is available in most towns and for inter-city travel. Entry and exit requirements Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. Passport Entry requirements vary depending on the type of passport you use for travel. Regular Canadian passport Your passport must be valid for at least three months beyond the date you expect to leave from Bosnia and Herzegovina. Passport for official travel Different entry rules may apply. Other travel documents Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Useful links Foreign Representatives in Canada Canadian passports Visas Tourist visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days Business visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days Student visa: Not required for stays up to 90 days Passport stamp Ensure that your passport is stamped by customs when you enter. Registration If you plan to visit for 3 or more days, you must register with local police within 48 hours of your arrival in the country. Registration of aliens - Service for Foreigners Affairs Children and travel Children travelling alone must carry a notarized letter of permission from their parent s or a guardian s. Travelling with children Yellow fever Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever vaccines section. Laws and culture You must abide by local laws. Identification You must carry photo identification, such as a passport, as you are required to show photo ID to local authorities upon request. Drugs Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are severe. Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics Dual citizenship Dual citizenship is legally recognized in Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you are in this situation: act as quickly as you can contact the Central Authority for your province or territory of residence for information on starting an application under The Hague Convention consult a lawyer in Canada and in Bosnia and Herzegovina to explore all the legal options for the return of your child report the situation to the nearest Canadian government office abroad or to the Vulnerable Children's Consular Unit at Global Affairs Canada by calling the Emergency Watch and Response Centre If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies. Useful links List of Canadian Central Authorities for the Hague Convention International Child Abductions: A guide for affected parents Children and travel The Hague Convention — Hague Conference on Private International Law Canadian embassies and consulates by destination Request emergency assistance Photography Photography of military or police installations, vehicles and personnel, as well as hydroelectric dams, is prohibited, unless you have obtained prior permission from local authorities. Driving You should carry an international driving permit. International Driving Permit If you are entering Bosnia and Herzegovina in a vehicle, you must have valid insurance. Equipment All vehicles must be equipped with the following emergency travel equipment: safety vest jack warning triangle tow rope spare tire first-aid kit spare light bulbs Vehicles must be equipped with winter tires from November 15 to April Accidents and fines Speed limits may not be clearly visible in rural areas. Money The currency is the convertible mark KM. The economy is primarily cash-based. ATMs are limited in rural areas. Natural disasters and climate Flooding and landslides Severe flooding in the spring or after heavy rains can hamper overland travel and reduce the provision of essential services. There is a risk year-round. Exercise caution, particularly in areas around major rivers Stay informed of the latest regional weather forecasts Follow the advice of local authorities, including evacuation orders Earthquakes Bosnia and Herzegovina is in an active seismic zone, and minor earthquakes are common. Wildfires Bush and forest fires are common in the summer, but are generally contained within inaccessible areas. In case of a major fire: stay away from the affected area, particularly if you suffer from respiratory ailments follow the instructions of local emergency services personnel monitor local media for up-to-date information on the situation. Need help? Local services Emergency services Dial for emergency assistance, or: for police for ambulance for fire rescue In winter, the emergency number for assistance, road conditions and towing service is Take normal security precautions Take similar precautions to those you would take in Canada. Exercise a high degree of caution There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Avoid non-essential travel Your safety and security could be at risk. Avoid all travel You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Date modified:

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