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Last updated on July 23, I know a lot of bloggers throw that word around, but I truly believe that Sarajevo is one of the most underrated European capitals. With a fascinating combination of European and Ottoman influences, its rich history, and a contagious joy of living, Sarajevo is the perfect travel destination. As there are no direct flights to Sarajevo from where we live, we chose to fly from Copenhagen instead. However, I cannot remember why we chose to take a regular bus instead. Were the airport buses running infrequently? Or was it due to a miscommunication? Either way, we managed to find our bus stop after 15 minutes of trying to cross a busy road without a crossing and navigate our way between residential buildings. Our bus already provided a snapshot of the efforts to rebuild the city post-war. It was an old Swiss bus, with the old destination blind still in place. I hope not. Other than that, we used Google Maps to find bus and tram timetables. Located right around the corner from one of the main pedestrian streets, we had many attractions practically on our doorstep. Maybe not from the outside as we walked upstairs, the building seemed almost abandoned, and we questioned if we were in the right place , but certainly on the inside. The real gem in this place is the lovely owner. In all of my years of travelling, it was the first time I encountered such an accommodating hostess. From giving us a handful of city recommendations and answering all of our questions to arranging private transfer to the Sarajevo War Tunnel on our last day, she went above and beyond to ensure we had a hassle-free experience. I highly recommend starting your trip to Sarajevo with a wander around the old bazaar to get a feel of the city. When it was originally built in the 15th century, it laid the foundations for Sarajevo. I remember learning about this place during history lessons when I was at school. Interestingly enough, the killer by the name of Gavrilo Princip is generally considered a terrorist by Bosniaks and Croats, and a hero by many Serbs. The Austro-Hungarian monarchy built a monument dedicated to Franz Ferdinand and his wife, but it was removed when Yugoslavia was established. There used to be a plaque commemorating Princip, which was later given to Adolf Hitler as a birthday gift in a twisted turn of events, kept in a museum, and eventually lost. You could also see embossed footprints in the spot from which he fired the fatal shots, but they were torn out during the Bosnian War. Right across the bridge, you can find the Museum of Sarajevo dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian rule in the country. As the assassination was what we wanted to learn more about, we chose not to go inside. Still, Latin Bridge is one of the must-see places in Sarajevo due to its historical significance. A not-so-obvious place to do that in Sarajevo is the restaurant on the 10th floor of Hotel Hecco Deluxe. Located right in the heart of Sarajevo, opposite the Eternal Flame monument, the restaurant terrace offers stunning panoramic views of the city. As a child growing up during the war, Neno was able to share some personal experiences from that harrowing time. He also did a brilliant job of explaining the roots of the conflict, as well as the current political set-up and the main challenges facing the country. Whatever questions you may have, he will answer them for you. During the 2-hour tour, we visited several memorial sites and passed by Sarajevo roses. These are craters left by fatal mortar explosions that have been symbolically filled with red resin. You can see the signs of war everywhere you look. Note that you must book a spot in advance. You can find all the details on the website I linked above! During the siege of Sarajevo, which lasted almost 4 years, the citizens faced a severe shortage of food and other basic necessities. However, the humanitarian aid that arrived in the city was far from ideal. Some of the canned food was left over from the Vietnam War and had been expired for over 20 years. A lot of it also included pork, which was a horrific oversight in a country where almost half of the population is Muslim. Apparently, even some cats and dogs refused to eat the canned beef — yikes! Our tour guide told us that the authors were allowed to install the monument as long as it was situated away from the UN headquarters to avoid provocation. One of the places our tour guide recommended was the Old Jewish Cemetery. It was a minute walk from where our tour finished, so we decided to head there shortly afterwards. Once you reach the top, your efforts are rewarded with incredible panoramic views of Sarajevo. From there, snipers fired shots at innocent civilians going about their daily lives. These tombstones bear silent witness to the atrocities that happened in the valley below, and many still have bullet holes in them. Thankfully, the iconic cable car has since been reconstructed and resumed service in April Once you arrive at the cable summit, you can walk along the marked mountain paths, visit a recreational sports center, or go on a 2-hour hike to the peak of the mountain. Just avoid going off the beaten path, as there are still some unexploded mines on the hillside. Back in the day, it drew thousands of spectators. After the Olympics finished, it was also used to host World Cup competitions, and it seemed like it would continue to attract international crowds for years to come…. Sadly, when the city of Sarajevo was ravaged by war, the bobsleigh track became one of its victims too. The track is still pocked with bullet holes, a stark reminder of the fact that it was once used as an artillery position. After the war ended, the massive concrete structure was reclaimed by nature and fell into disrepair. In , a massive demining operation took place. The track is now popular among urban exploration urbex enthusiasts and local street artists. Covered in graffiti, it seems hardly conceivable that this place was once vibrant and bustling with visitors from all around the world. Unfortunately, we only had enough time to visit one of the war museums in Sarajevo. We eventually opted for the latter, which is a memorial art gallery dedicated to the Srebrenica genocide. What I appreciated about this museum was that our tickets were valid for the entire day. During the Srebrenica massacre of July , over 8, Bosniak Muslim men and boys lost their lives at the hands of the army of Republika Srpska. Through a variety of multimedia exhibits, including photographs, posters, audio recordings, and documentaries, you gain a deep insight into what occurred in this small mountain town in Eastern Bosnia almost 30 years ago. We found it distressing, but important to show how the violence of some people combined with the indifference of others can lead to the suffering of thousands of innocent people. During the Siege of Sarajevo, Serbian forces completely isolated the city. As a result, members of the Bosnian Army devised a plan to connect the besieged city with the Bosnian-held territory near the Sarajevo Airport, which was under United Nations control. It took over 6 months to dig a tunnel beneath the airport runway. This allowed people to bring food, humanitarian aid, or war supplies into Sarajevo, as well as exit. At that time, it was the only way in and out of the city. The southern entrance to the tunnel was hidden inside a house owned by the Kolar family, located near the airport. Now, the remaining metre section of the tunnel is part of a museum that tells the story of the longest siege of any city in modern history. We paid Thankfully, our hostess came to the rescue! She arranged for her friend to pick us up, drive us to the tunnel, wait for an hour while we explored, and then take us back to the city. This was yet another reason why I highly recommend the flat we stayed in, as the hostess will do anything in her power to accommodate you. A truly fascinating thing about our drive to the tunnel was that we saw a road sign saying that we were leaving the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina and entering Republika Srpska, only to re-enter the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina shortly afterwards. You can find out why in my post describing 10 things you need to know before visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina. Once we had our first bite, there was no question about returning the very next day either. With a variety of different breakfast sets to choose from, our main concern was narrowing down our options. Thankfully, we hit the jackpot both times. My boyfriend and I always try to visit a specialty coffee shop or two wherever we travel, and the name of this place immediately intrigued me. It means a habit or a quirk that brings you a lot of satisfaction. For example, I always make sure to arrange the notes in my wallet based on their denomination — smallest in the front to largest in the back, facing front. In Bosnia, the ritual of drinking coffee definitely falls under that category. Not only do they serve great specialty coffee, but they also bake delicious cakes to go with it. I also found it quirky that I caught the barista playing chess online in between serving customers. The owners of this place have 3 separate locations around the Old Town area, named after the local football team. National Geographic even recommended it, which is yet another testament to the quality of food served here. The menu consisted only of a few Bosnian classics. The vibe is really old-school, and the dishes themselves might not look very appetising served on cheap metal plates. It was a wonderful introduction to Bosnian cuisine, and the prices were very reasonable. Our food arrived really quickly as well. As is often the case in Bosnian restaurants, the waiter brings the bill along with the food. You can settle it anytime, which greatly speeds up the entire process. Why not put your taste buds to the test at Milky, a chain restaurant that specialises in crepe-based desserts? If you want, you can experiment and create your own crepe. We decided to leave it to the experts, though, and chose two of the suggested options from the menu. When I say I can easily devour a bunch of sweet treats in one sitting, I really mean it. That being said, would I return? The joy on my face says it all really. Next time, I would probably get one to share, but it was definitely good to test my limits…. I spend hours poring over my laptop, researching the best places to visit in a given city. We decided to try both while we were chilling with our shisha. There are also books stacked all over the place. Have you ever been to a city that positively surprised you? If so, what was it and why?

A Genocide Denier Threatens to Unravel 25 Years of Peace in the Balkans

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Though the city is mostly rebuilt and thriving, on the walls facing the river and the old front lines, the cosmetic damage of bullet holes and shell impacts remains. From the path, you also have a clear view of the spots along the Trebevic Mountains overlooking the city where Bosnian Serb snipers and artillery units built positions to lay seige on the mostly Bosnian Muslim population that they terrorised for nearly three years. Twenty-five years after the war was ended by US and NATO soldiers, and a new state was formed in the Balkans, some people in Bosnia have begun to see telltale signs of a new conflict. On Friday he plans to instruct his Parliament to undo several ties that have kept the Republika Srpska alongside the rest of Bosnia for the last quarter of a century, such as leaving key legal and security arrangements, as well as the national army. Most alarmingly, Dodik wants his own army at the same moment that Bosnian Serb politicians have decided to reject laws that make genocide denial a crime. Is it full autonomy for the Republika Srpska? Or an eventual union with Serbia? Or an as-yet-unclear plan to assume full power in the Republika Srpska that would leave him above the law for life? It could be as simple as Dodik fearing an existence without a security service loyal only to him. Dodik claims his Alliance of Independent Social Democrats SNSD is ready to introduce the legislation to withdraw from key courts and the security services, all moves that essentially violate year-old peace agreements that created a country. People here remember that the last time Bosnian Serbs tried to shift some borders and increase their political autonomy, over , people died in a war that created the most refugees in Europe since World War II. The state of Bosnia and Herzegovina BiH , home to 3. Endless dissertations have been written about the history of this peace even as it continues to play out. And while dysfunction, posturing and hinted threats come from all three sides, Bosnian Serb, Croat and Muslims resent their own fickle corrupt leadership as much as their supposed enemies. What feels different this time is that Dodik appears willing to escalate the mess in a new and dangerous way. In July, he and other Bosnian Serb politicians rejected language that would have made it a crime to deny genocide happened during the war. No one can deny a genocide took place, considering all three sides variously conducted mass killings and ethnic cleansing against each other. That crime and the failure of the international community to stop it was so well documented that an entire Dutch government had to resign over it. But now the RS government is demanding the legal right to say it never happened, and everyone is worried what that might mean. Making it acceptable to argue the genocide, along with the proposed moves to leave the army, as well as the court system that runs both the federal police and national intelligence services, would starkly diminish the power of the post-Dayton state. At least. I was there to talk to its venerable head, Jakob Finci. Finci had stayed during the siege despite ample opportunities to flee to anywhere safe he wanted. He managed to save one of the oldest Sephardic Torahs from Bosnian Serb artillery fire, became an ambassador to Switzerland, and knows world leaders like Bill Clinton, Tony Blair and a dozen others. He even tried to run for president of Bosnia, offering himself as a compromise sectarian candidate figuring nobody would be threatened by the estimated to 1, Jews living in the country. Nearly 80, Finci still comes into the office every day, and on the day of our meeting, the first day of Hanukkah, he was in a typically good mood. He tried to start with the positives. The Serbs might have been outnumbered in the s, but they outgunned everyone else until the very end. Finally after a bit of speculation, Finci leaned in closer with an impish grin and a conspiratorial tone. And with that, he had to go meet the Turkish ambassador to BiH, who himself was rather concerned about what everything meant. Their energy and anger has instead been focused upon the endemic corruption in all three sides — Serb, Croat and Bosniak — of the various governments strangling the economy. The billions in international aid has dried up, leaving voracious local bosses to shake down the locals more and more. Nobody can afford the bribes themselves, so you end up taking on members of the political mafias as partners. But even then you still pay. But here no matter what you do, some new guy comes and demands money. It never ends. Real estate development gets clobbered by crooks in Sarajevo, where only those with government connections and deep-pocketed foreign-investor backing can survive the demands for bribes. All of this is controlled by local strongmen loyal to Dodik, who have little interest in adhering to environmental standards or contributing to the public purse. Standing alongside a highway in the rural RS one afternoon watching trucks pass by loaded with fresh-cut timber, one Bosnian Serb said that perhaps one in four of the trucks was from a legal cut and would pay taxes; the rest were almost certainly illegal and headed over the nearby border with Serbia for processing or export. What does scare some is an increasingly authoritarian leader in the RS capital of Banja Luka threatening to undo much of the central authority keeping the peace because cutting the army in half can only mean a weaker BiH unable to keep its parts in line. So people have begun to think the unthinkable once again. The simple reason: Such ideas tend to encourage hyper-nationalists and are perceived as rewarding military aggression and ethnic cleansing. Latal, of the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network, cuts the international community more of a break than Cerimajic and thinks local actors are overall more responsible for the recent tensions. Terrorists could too easily blend in. Why would these guys call some street cop across the country in Sarajevo? Does the FBI just call up street cops for coffee? The caller suggested they meet near his police station, and Miokovic, confused and intrigued, agreed. What he heard would not only change his life and take his right eye but also eventually reshape the region. Then I will come to the new police station. The next day, Friday, only Miokovic and one other Bosnian Serb policeman came to work. All the other Serbs had left. And as bad as the entire war was through the country, those first months were brutal before the Bosniaks could form an army. They faced Bosnian Serb paramilitaries heavily armed with Yugoslav National Army weapons that almost overwhelmed the lightly armed ad-hoc Bosniak mix of police, some former soldiers, gangsters and anyone else with a gun. The Grbavica neighbourhood near where we met is where the Bosnian Serb fighters managed to enter the city, leading to house-to-house fighting, where the killing was face to face. Two months into the war, I was six metres from a Serb — I still see his face — and both our guns were up, he fired first and missed. But the ricochet hit me in the face, took my eye and settled a few millimetres from my brain. My last thought for the month I was in the coma was that shooting me was the last thing he ever did. When he recovered, Miokovic went on to be a homicide detective for the rest of the siege, where he would treat the killing of civilians by sniper fire or artillery shells as homicides, before insisting on testifying at the war crime tribunals in public and under his own name. One night I drove three hours out from Sarajevo through darkly wooded hills to Srebrenica, whose forests hide the evidence of a massacre in shallow mass graves. He would go on to serve in the Bosnian defence ministry and also work as a journalist. So they will eventually re-form this army of Ratko Mladic. Without these people working together in an army, the idea of Bosnia will become too weak. By Mitchell Prothero. By Nathaniel Janowitz. By Robyn Wilson. By Max Daly. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE.

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