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Introduction: Coke Forge and Sword! First I will show you the long-ish ground forge, what i used, how I put it together and lit it, then how I made the sword blade note not full tang and handle ect. Materials The materials needed for constructing a non-permanent forge depends on the size and shape, this forge was made for the job of forging the blade of my sword, so I will list the materials as if u was replicating this exactly or kind of. I used the back part pf a vice sat on a wall, this is far from ideal just look at picture.. First thing, find a good spot to set the forge up, not under any thing, where it wont have to be moved, but still shielded from any winds. Place the slabs on the floor adjacent to each other with the breeze block at one end to act as the back. Lay the solid bricks along the edge of the slabs on there sides from the back to the front on both sides of the slabs with a gap for the air in let in the middle. Now place the building bricks also on there sides with the holes in them approximately 8cm away from the other bricks laying them from the back to the front. To cap of the air way use the solid bricks laid so they overhang on top of the other bricks. Lay another course of bricks on the inner wall to make it higher, some chopping of bricks will be required to make them fit. Studding the pictures will help but in the drawn one I have it with 5 rows of bricks when it should have 4 but this make no difference the principles are the same. It is beneficial to have a lip at the front of the forge to stop the coke from falling out. The outlet holes that are most near the air in let need to be closed up slightly, using the clay make a rim around the holes halving the diameter and feathering off as it gets further away from the air inlet. Rolling the clay into strips seal the bricks with the clay so that little air can escape. Do not attach the hair dryers yet. Have the tiles near by as they will act as semi lid to keep the heat in once the forge is going. Set out the tools you will be using, the bucket of water, the water but, the mettle you will be working on and the thing that you have chosen to work the mettle on all out so that it is in easy reach. The best way that I found to light the coke is to put the coke in that you need up to the first two layers of bricks , then to burry some soft and hard wood in the coke then build up a layer of wood on top of the coke so that it is higher than the top brick. To light use lighting fluid or diesel, do not use petrol or methonal as they are far to combustible and will go out before heating up the wood so it burns properly. Doing this should make a fire on top of the coke and once the fire has died down, heated up the forge and the coke underneath, attach the hair dryers and seal with some clay once attached play with the settings until you get the right heat. Take the suggest hi carbon as lots will be lost in the heating steel cut it into a workable size, but have the mass so that when it is drawn out it will be approximately 50 cm long. Using tongs place the steel into the forge, put the tiles over the top still leaving gaps. When it is heated red-white hot it can be shaped, drawn out and cut with a chisel and hammer. Once the desired shape is accomplished with a semi edge to it quickly quench it in the water but and then take out the blade so not to much heat is lost, let it slowly cool down, this will hopefully give some hardness and flexibility to the blade. The easiest way to fix a hand guard is to cut a rebate up the blade slightly and make a slot in the guard. No easy task with leaf spring steel so plate steel may be a better option, just drill holes along where the slot wants to be and grind and file a-way until it fits the rebate on the sword. Cut a section on the bottom so that it can be rounded and threaded. It is hard to explain hopefully the picture shows what I mean. Drill a hole in both ends of the steel rod and thread them one to fit the sword and one to fit the bolt. It can be easer to weld the guard and rod to the sword but I prefer threading it so that I can disassemble it. In a vice use the angel grinder to put an edge on the blade, and then refine on a bench grinder or water stone. A easy way of making a round griped handle is to use four layers of wood, cut the plank into four strips grain long ways chisel a semi circle on one side of two strips of wood so that when put together it will slip up the handle. Nearing the top it will have to be chiseled out to incorporate the bottom of the blade. Once done glue together the two strips with the other two and clamp them together. Once dry put the handle on sword and cut off the bottom overhand keeping 0. You can ether carve, plane or turn the handle in to the wanted shape. I used French polish on the handle to finish it but it is up to you. I hope this has been of some interest as it was to me! I know there will be a whole bunch of spelling mistakes and that there are perhaps better ways of doing some of the things I have mentioned but this is what I done and enjoyed it! Tom K.

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Always Coca Cola? So I have this new tulwar in transit from the UK and from what can be seen in the pictures, there are a few significant rust spots on the blade. While it is nothing that couldn't be handled via my usual means of cleaning, I figured this would be a perfect time to try that Cola thing that so many people are raving about. I am looking for some pointers from those who use Coke to clean their blades. How do you do it? Should I soak the sword if so, for how long? Anything specific that can damage the steel to look out for? Do you prefer a specific brand or flavor that works best? Is there anything else I need to know? Stan S. Reason: text. Salaams Stan S. Drop the sword in for a couple of days and check it For rust spot use aluminium foil which works at sub atomic level to remove the spots It needs a lot of rubbing but is about as non invasive as you can get Use the foil folded like you use 00 grade paper Use Coke and aluminium foil and save the planet.. Try these before you step up the abrasives to 00 and also look at pineapple fruit juice and or tomato paste and or lemon salt which I found very effective. Again apply in one or two day submersions and check for effect. Half the trick is to build a decent container or tube in which to immerse the object and so you dont use gallons of coke etc I have a long shallow aluminium tray in which swords can be dropped That works.. Hot soapy water will neutralise most of these low acids but you can use vinegar as well Attached Images. Last edited by Atlantia; 17th December at PM. Especially if mixed with a little Scotch! I wondered if you guys had any ideas about using commercial metal polish? I've used one normally used as a chrome or exhaust cleaner to remove most kind of metal oxidation that is around the 00 steel wool requirement or worse not sure if I should mention its name here. It seems to do this without leaving obvious scratches, and do it fast. The only problem is that if you don't want a polished surface then a rub over with strong soap solution is needed due to the wax they include. If for some reason you do want a polished surface, then steel wool afterwards produces an amazing finish even on poor quality grainy steel I'm not sure exactly what is in there. There is a fine abrasive, wax and a number of solvents that make rust removal easier, but exactly what they are and what they do, and what the down sides might be, I'm not sure. Namaste Ibrahiim I've conducted quite a thorough test with aluminium foil and I have to say that it is effective although only in limited circumstances. It is good for disguising light staining and does remove very light oxidisation, but I've tried this on a sword where there were actual encrustations on the blade and even the small ones are not removed by the Aluminium foil. The foil coats them with aluminium but doesn't remove them. You end up with silver coloured bumps. I've found that this foil technique is best for very minor staining or disguising light pitting. To illustrate here are some pictures. The small one shows the 'proved' mark on an sabre prior to cleaning. The aluminium foil technique isn't really like any other to be honest. If you used an abrasive cleaner-cream with aluminium in it, you'd polish the surface of the steel starting with the high points. If you use steel wool no matter how fine you do start to eventually burnish the surface or leave scratches, and so on. But a combination of techniques can produce excellent results. The best thing about the using aluminium foil is that it doesn't seem to burnish the steel or leave any scratches or otherwise polish or abrade the steel in any way. Even on an etched design like my the foil will remove very light surface rust while 'lessening' any sub-surface rust and leaves the high points of the design completely intact without producing any noticable wear at all. It seems to be a gentle and effective method that on the face of it has no downside. However, that said it needs to essentially be the final step in the process, but if you add it to the 'arsenal' of cleaning methods in the 'most delicate' position, then it's certainly going to be something to bear in mind. I've found that folding the foil so it's layers and rubbing quite hard produces good results. After a while it does wear through and disintigrate. The foil is good to use because it takes whatever shape you want. It does turn your fingers black after a while though. So, back to the illustrations. This is NOT a technique that I would recommend unless you practice it on worthless articles first as the surgical steel can leave horrible scratches on the blade if you are not VERY careful. Finally and I hope these pictures show in the right order I used aluminium foil to give the blade a final clean up. As you can see the aluminium impregnates the sub-surface rust and almost 'fills' the minor pits. I would recommend the technique as a final step in a cleaning process. Or for use on steel items to delicate for other processes. Interestingly if you rub the finished surface with WD40 it sucks some of the aluminium back out of the surface. The result is still good though. Best Gene. Thanks to all who replied. In the past, I have used lemon juice and vinegar on two Indian swords, which I guess acts very similar to Coca Cola. Both swords were completely encrusted in rust and seemed to be in semi-relic condition. After 48hr soaking in lemon juice and a 48hr soaking in vinegar lemon juice wasn't working , interrupted by vigorous scrubbings, I was able to get ALL of the rust out but it left the blades and hilts looking very flat and dull. While the rust was gone the pitting caused by it remained, and so I was left with a surface that looked much like an arial view of the surface of the moon - 'crators' upon 'crators' as far as the eye can see I think now I know how to correct this. My wife just bought a huge roll of aluminum foil for her kitchen needs, and I have a couple of free hours today So I think it is time for me to requisition her foil and get to work I'll post some pictures when I am done. Thread Tools. The time now is AM. Posts are regarded as being copyrighted by their authors and the act of posting material is deemed to be a granting of an irrevocable nonexclusive license for display here. User Name. Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. Find More Posts by Stan S. Quote: Originally Posted by Stan S. Find More Posts by Ibrahiim al Balooshi. Find More Posts by spiral. Find More Posts by Atlantia. Quote: Originally Posted by spiral sugar free coke is better than 'full fat'. Find More Posts by Sajen. Find More Posts by Mefidk. Quote: Originally Posted by Atlantia Namaste Ibrahiim I've conducted quite a thorough test with aluminium foil and I have to say that it is effective although only in limited circumstances. Posting Rules.

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