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They say the body acclimates to warm weather over time. A three-hour flight was not enough for this lifelong New England native to prepare for the wilting heat of Puerto Rico. Laura, on the other hand, was born and raised on the enchanted island. She handled the climate much better with her thinner Caribbean blood. Beads of sweat rolled off my forehead as we wandered through the historic cobbled streets of Old San Juan. The occasional droplet ran down my back. Heat and humidity have a way of breaking me down ruthlessly— my biggest weakness. I toughed it out. Steep cliffs and concrete walls were built along the shore as protection against invading forces. Generations of families with deep African and Spanish roots still live here. Churches and cathedrals are everywhere. There are also plenty of bars, theme restaurants, and souvenir shops on every street catering to tourists and locals alike. You can take a walking tour through a colonial-era military fort, buy a computer, and fill a prescription on the same block. The old seamlessly blends with the new. They lived in the neighboring town of Carolina a few minutes up the main strip. We introduced ourselves, ordered a few rounds, and discussed island living over plates of roast pork, fried plantains, and white rice. An idyllic start to our Caribbean getaway. After dinner, they drove us around San Juan to check out the sights and sounds. We passed a few clubs along the harbor that were stuffed to the gills with middle-aged tourists dancing on the open patios, sipping fruity umbrella drinks, and wearing bright summer linens. Police details were on nearly every corner. Luxury resorts were stacked along the beach in orderly rows like Monopoly pieces. As were more cops. He was referring to a certain breed of young Puerto Rican males—flashy ones with nice clothes, bright jewelry, and expensive cars. They were most often well-connected drug dealers or gang members looking for trouble. Lots of legitimate money runs through these bright and elegant avenidas , but San Juan has a much darker side—a serious criminal underworld lurking in the shade from the palm trees. Legendary among locals, it inspires countless stories and rumors about drugs and murder. These two guys knew all about it. They witnessed the plethora of gang activity, drug trafficking, and violent crimes that permeated the streets of San Juan. Shootings and stabbings were incredibly common. They described which sub-barrios to avoid while site-seeing and stressed the importance of self-awareness in Puerto Rico. They warned us about local gang members and their penchant for violence. Cocaine is still a big seller. In recent years, traffickers from Colombia, Venezuela, and Mexico have started funneling drugs through Puerto Rico and Dominican Republic at much higher rates. Most of the cocaine is destined for major cities along the eastern U. The rest of it remains on the island leaving gang members to wage violent wars against their rivals over money, drugs, and control of the local drug trade. The sky-high murder rate in Puerto Rico is a direct result of the major increase in drug traffic. It was Detroit with palm trees. Politicians started pushing legislation to revitalize local businesses, clean up the neighborhoods, and turn the city into a Caribbean hotspot for tourists and honeymooners. They modeled the redevelopment of San Juan after the wildly successful Disneyfication of Manhattan which still continues to this day. The government created tax incentives to attract businesses and eliminated rent control to drive out poor folks. They started building endless hotels, clubs, and restaurants. The poorer segments of society were pushed away from the community—banished to the outskirts of the city where the cost of living was more affordable. That made plenty of room for hotel magnates and restaurant conglomerates to demolish and rebuild. How exotic! The pineapple flavored one was the best. We stopped to enjoy our frozen treats on a grassy hill as a group of students gathered nearby to eat their lunches. Four hundred feet from snow-cone-eating tourists and students on field trips sat La Perla. It stretched about yards or so along the rocky coastline. It was completely secluded and tucked away between the ocean waves and the old fortress walls that once protected the city from invasions. An ideal location for anyone wishing to partake in illegal activities in private. La Perla originated in the 19th century as a zoning area for cemeteries, slaughterhouses, and slaves to stay outside the city walls away from the community center. With Old San Juan under the scrutiny of a clean-up effort by local government, the drug dealers and gang members moved to La Perla in droves to lay low and begin new enterprises. Drug traffickers, arms dealers, and slumlords control the neighborhood with impunity. A self-governing system of illegal activity operates within the slum— a real-life Puerto Rican version of The Wire. With cops looking the other way, the black market can thrive out of plain view which keeps crime off the busy streets and away from tourists. The city maintains a safe, positive image and the criminals continue to rake in big profits. Everyone is happy! Except the residents of La Perla …. Generally speaking, outsiders and tourists are not the target of violence in Puerto Rico. Outsiders only enter La Perla for one reason: to buy drugs. So, outsiders are usually allowed to enter and exit unscathed during the day. However, flashy unsuspecting tourists can easily find trouble. Even though it sits mere steps from major tourist attractions, there are only three main access points to La Perla. We chose not to breach the inner walls of the slum during our stay and only explored the outskirts during the day. We were not willing to take the risk of ruining our rare opportunity for a romantic Caribbean getaway in the name of spontaneous journalistic adventure. Email Address:. Skip to content. A typical street in Old San Juan lined with colonial buildings and colorful walls. Under every blue Spanish cobblestone hides a dirty secret. On the left, a car exits through one of three main access points into La Perla slum. Then, Laura pointed it out. Except the residents of La Perla … So, is it safe..? Like Loading Email Address: Subscribe. Subscribe Subscribed. Day Old Shirt. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.
The traditional Catalan coca, whose name comes from the same root as the English word “cake,” is a baked flatbread with a variety of toppings, either savory or.
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June 24 marks the feast day for Saint John the Baptist, which nearly coincides with the Summer Solstice. The two celebrations — Catholic and pagan — have combined into one festival marking the longest day and shortest night of the year. Catalonia, in Spain's northeast, celebrates Fiesta de San Juan with a special coca. At dusk on June 24, though, families enjoy the Coca de San Juan, a sweet version that often features lemon zest, pastry cream, and pine nuts. We're featuring two different cocas to celebrate Fiesta de San Juan this year. The first, Coca de Llardons, is a unique sweet-savory combination of chicharrones — pork cracklings — and pine nuts, baked on puff pastry. The second, a Coca de Crema, is a brioche dough flavored with coriander and anise, topped with vanilla pastry cream, candied oranges and pine nuts, and then baked in the oven and finished with an anise simple syrup. It's rich, sweet, and nutty, and a perfect way to celebrate the longest day of the year. As the Catalans say, Bon profit. Cocas de San Juan Share Article:. Cocas de San Juan Catalans celebrate Solstice with this sweet treat. Share Article. Cocas de San Juan. Check out everything the Mercado has to offer. El Blog. Shop Flowers.
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All Coke in PR has real cane sugar vs. high fructose corn syrup. Here on the mainland we have to look for Coke Life or Mexican Coke.
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