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In Los Altos, Chiapas, Coke has become a key part of indigenous ceremonies as well as a staple source of hydration. The photographer Diana Bagnoli visited the region to see the effect of this trend on public health. T o enter the highlands of Chiapas, in southern Mexico, is to enter a world of vibrant indigenous culture, breathtaking natural beauty, entrenched racism and grinding poverty. It is also to enter the territory of Coca-Cola. The signs are everywhere. Red trucks emblazoned with the curly white logo are familiar sights in towns and far-flung villages and on the winding, mist-shrouded mountain roads that connect them. Coca-Cola fridges occupy the most visible spots in most corner shops, while billboard adverts are so widespread they often end up as building materials for the very poor. No gathering to celebrate a birth, a marriage or a patron saint is considered complete without Coke for the guests. Strikingly, Coca-Cola has become an integral part of indigenous religious observance and healing ceremonies, which are often intertwined with the Catholic pantheon but operate autonomously from the church. A bottle of Coke, believed to feed the good spirits and help the sick, is today as central a feature of many public and private rituals as incense, candles and sacrificial chickens. Coca-Cola has become so intertwined with the local culture that is part of spiritual ceremonies such as this one in Tenejapa. Pascuala is a pulsadora , a type of healer. Several years ago she started using Coke in her ceremonies. But the intertwining of Coca-Cola with local tradition in Los Altos has contributed to the rise of a health emergency that activists accuse authorities of not taking seriously enough. Type-2 diabetes is now firmly established as the biggest killer in the region, according to a study of death certificates between and in three municipalities. Jaime Page, a medical anthropologist who carried out the study, says the government has sought to keep diabetes mortality out of official statistics to avoid looking bad. Other health problems related to excessive sugar consumption, such as tooth decay, are also rampant. Sanando Heridas is a free and itinerant healthcare system for indigenous people. Rosa is pregnant and has comes to check on the baby and her glucose level. The story of how Coca-Cola became so deeply embedded in this verdant land of age-old traditions and minimal disposable income goes back to the s when local indigenous leaders, with state backing, began accumulating power in religious, social and economic spheres. This included taking control of the concessions for the distribution of Coca-Cola and, initially, Pepsi too. Paige says this happened at the same time as evangelical churches were making inroads in the area and pressuring indigenous communities to stop drinking alcohol. This combination led indigenous religious leaders to start substituting Coca-Cola for the local firewater, called pox , which they had long used to feed the spirits in their rituals. Healers at the church use soft drinks instead of the traditional pox , a very alcoholic drink prohibited by the Catholic church. The seal of celestial approval not only helped create a belief that Coca-Cola had the power to heal but also fuelled its march to becoming a symbol of social status and good hospitality. On more prosaic terrain, Coke also began to replace a traditional drink made of fermented corn dough, called pozol , which was once the main way peasants topped up their energy during long days in the fields. Today they are much more likely to reach for a sugar-packed soft drink. The plant today supplies much of the south of Mexico, and it has always paid particular attention to the local market. Marketing strategies have included huge billboards with smiling indigenous models, religious references and slogans written in indigenous languages, as well as the proliferation of points of sale no matter how small the volumes shifted. Arana says the addiction starts ever earlier. As in most of Mexico, clean drinking water is not generally available even to those who can count on running water in their homes, which means many turn to soft drinks for basic hydration. The irony of this is clear in an area known for its constant downpours and abundant springs, such as the one that attracted the Coca-Cola bottling company. A well that extracts fresh water from a volcano basin. The activists allege this has been possible in part because Coca-Cola has friends in high political places. It all adds up to a perfect storm of sugar-related health issues in Los Altos. View image in fullscreen. Reuse this content. Most viewed.

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