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Most people I know, when they Google New Caledonia , decide within seconds that it is a tropical paradise. They are not wrong. Most, also, are, or become, insanely jealous when they learn that I live on this tiny island and work for Paris. It is 6 degrees below freezing Celsius in Paris at the moment, while we are island hopping on the weekends. I understand their jealousy. But among my friends here, we relativize things. New Caledonia is no different. Guess what, front-page news. Nothing too serious. But little did you know, until perhaps today, you could mail-order cocaine here in New Caledonia. Why not? I love that he received the cocaine in envelopes, addressed to a fake name but at the correct address. But how was he found? Passing through a tollbooth with some dried grass and a plastic bag of powder visible in his car. Perhaps the invisibility cloak slipped? Breaking news tonight is about our local SWAT team watch the short video to see how SWAT-like they are intervening to secure an area for local pot growers who had been displaced by fires that are raging in our southern parts … The question is will the marijuana be seized and the growers fined, will the fires be put out, and will we tomorrow, resume our life in paradise? Drugs in New Caledonia? Try cocaine in the mail … January 17, Most people I know, when they Google New Caledonia , decide within seconds that it is a tropical paradise. Rate this:. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Leave a comment Cancel reply. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. New Caledonia Today. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.
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The very French territory of New Caledonia offers a blend of Parisian chic, style and sophisticated ambience , mixed with laid-back Melanesian charm. While many visitors choose to spend their time soaking up the agreeable atmosphere of the capital, there are a wealth of fascinating sights elsewhere which can easily be visited with a rental car. La Grande Terre is an island of stark contrasts. The main island and mainland, La Grande Terre , is a km long, narrow slither of land which was formerly part of Australia believed to have separated roughly 66 million years ago. As a visiting Australian, I was often struck by the similarities in landscapes between New Caledonia and Australia. From the arid, red-earth expanses of Le Grand Sud Great South region , which has a distinctly outback look and feel, to the green hills of the central agricultural belt, to the groves of paperbark and gum trees which line the highways — New Caledonia looks and feels like Australia! The stunningly beautiful Kuto Bay, a highlight of the Isle of Pines. South of the main island is the picturesque Isles of Pines , a popular tourist playground famed for its stunning white-sand beaches and towering Araucaria pine trees. Nickel on display at the Maritime museum in Noumea. As a result, nickel processing is the most important sector of the economy, and is the main source of revenue for New Caledonia. Historic St. Louis church is located on a hill, on the outskirts of Noumea. This, combined with annual fiscal transfers of more than one billion US dollars from the French government, have meant that the territory has never had to rely on tourism. However times are changing and tourism is now becoming more important to the economy, and the government — through New Caledonia Tourism — is actively promoting this magical corner of the South Pacific. A hand-painted sarong showing traditional Kanak motifs. New Caledonia is located in the South Pacific — 1, km miles east of Australia , km miles south of Vanuatu , 4, km 2, miles west of French Polynesia and 20, km 12, miles from France. The territory is an archipelago, which is comprised of the main island of La Grande Terre , the Loyalty Islands to east, the Belep archipelago to the north and the Isle of Pines to the south. Historians believe that, along with Australian Aborigines, the Melanesians emigrated from Africa into southern Asia between 50, and , years ago. A map of the Melanesian region of the Pacific Ocean. Source: Wikipedia. Using land bridges, which existed due to low sea levels, the Melanesians eventually migrated east to Australia and New Guinea, arriving there 40, years ago. A further migration into the eastern islands of Melanesia including New Caledonia came much later, probably between B. The phallus is of symbolic importance in the Kanak culture and today a popular souvenir item. Since colonial times, immigrants have arrived from metropolitan France and various other francophone colonies. Of the current population of , , two-thirds live in the greater Noumea area. Until , the French flag was the only flag flown in New Caledonia. However, in July of that year, the Congress of New Caledonia voted in favour of a motion to fly the Kanak flag alongside the French tricolor. The Kanak flag has flown alongside the French flag since The flag in use today features a blue horizontal band which symbolizes both the sky and the ocean surrounding New Caledonia. The red symbolises the blood shed by the Kanaks in their struggle for independence while the green symbolises the land. To really enjoy New Caledonia you should have a well-endowed bank account! Stamp artwork from New Caledonia often features the colourful fauna and flora found throughout the archipelago. Surrounded by a UNESCO-World Heritage listed lagoon, the longest continuous barrier reef in the world and the second largest after the Great Barrier Reef of Australia, the lagoon offers diving, snorkeling, abundant marine-life, pristine reefs, whale watching, one spectacular blue hole and lots of beautiful beaches. The sparsely populated east coast is characterised by towering, rugged mountains which plunge into the sea, while the west coast offers gentle plains and green, rolling hills and is the agricultural heartland of the country. Exploring the Le Grand Sud region in my rental car. Opened in , the magnificent Jean-Marie Tjibaou Cultural Centre , was designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano who incorporated Kanak design elements into the construction of the buildings. The centre houses a number of galleries and uses a variety of artistic mediums to celebrate the cultural heritage of the indigenous Kanak people. Highly recommended! This Roman Catholic church dominates the city skyline from its hilltop position above town. Built between — in the neo-Gothic style, the two 25 metre tall towers do not have spires, which is an anticyclone design feature. The interior of St. The museum includes displays of indigenous cultures and artefacts from the wider Pacific region. The museum exhibits trace local maritime history from the first indigenous settlers, who reached New Caledonia in traditional canoes, to the arrival of Europeans, to the Pacific War, and the American presence in the territory during the WWII. As a result of the American presence on the island during the war, local Kanaks started to agitate for independence from France, a movement which is still ongoing today. Displays at the Museum of the City of Noumea. Baie des Citrons is one of the most popular beaches in Noumea. A popular, busy beachside suburb, Baie des Citrons Lemon Bay is located a short drive south of downtown Noumea. This is one big playground which draws those looking to swim, exercise, picnic. Lining the beach is the largest collection of restaurants, bars and hotels in Noumea, making Lemon bay the liveliest neighbourhood in the capital. The sweeping Baie des Citrons is a popular recreation area in Noumea. Anse Vata beach is popular with locals and tourists and is home to many hotels, restaurants and cafes. A short stroll from Baie des Citrons, Anse Vata is a popular tourist hub. It was constructed from iron panels in Paris in , then dismantled and shipped in crates to New Caledonia where it was re-assembled on the island. A spiral staircase winds its way to the top from where you have panoramic views of the island and beyond. Although highly venomous, their mouths are tiny and as such they are unable to bite a human. They are also very shy and will give you a wide berth. Mary D provide hotel transfers, transport to the island, snorkeling gear, lunch, entrance to the lighthouse and lots of fun activities. Free mineral water is available from the source at Mont Dore. The locals bring bags of containers to refill! Visitors to Mont Dore are able to fill their bottles with free mineral water direct from the source. A view of the east coast from the mountains above Yate village. The sleepy settlement of Yate lies on the remote east coast of La Grande Terre. There is very little in town with the best accommodation options being in distant Noumea. The floating jetty at the 4-star Kanua Tera Ecolodge, which lies at the end of a very lonely road at Port Boise. At the end of a rough, red-earth, gravel road is the very remote Port de Boise. The only thing here is the deluxe Kanua Tera Ecolodge , which offers the only accommodation and restaurant option in this part of the country. They have a sister property on the Isle of Pines — see that section for more details. From here you have spectacular views over the south coast of la Grande Terre, including the treacherous Havannah Pass. The arid, dry, red-earth landscapes of Le Grand Sud region are reminiscent of outback Australia. The construction of a military fort and a prison, overlooking Uarai bay, began in at the request of the Governor who received a contingent of twenty-five convicts, with two supervisors and three policemen. The fort was built by the convict labour. The fort overlooks Uarai bay, opposite the mouth of the La Foa River, kilometres north of Noumea. During the Kanak revolt in , the gendarmes inside the fort were killed. However, the fort was never taken and at the time it was still in very good condition. After the revolt, the military fort was redesigned and strengthened to serve as bunkers and possible refuge. By , the fort had fallen into neglect and remained that way until at which point it was restored. As part of the restoration, the former administration building was converted into a museum and interpretation Centre. Apart from the museum, you can also visit the adjacent cellblock where original convict graffiti can be seen and climb the watchtower which offers panoramic views over the bay. Located on the main highway, immediately south of La Foa, La Passerelle Marguerite Margaret bridge is a suspension bridge which was shipped out in pieces from France after being designed by students of Gustav Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame in It was re-assembled on-site using convict labour. Located on the highway, south of town, the Bourail museum and visitors centre includes informative displays which explain the history of this agricultural region. The museum focuses on the settlement of the region around Bourail, which today is the agricultural heartland of New Caledonia. The tourist office also shares this building and can provide maps and useful information if you are heading further north. The beautiful Baie des Tortues Turtle Bay is a popular nesting site for sea turtles. Located on the coast near Bourail, Baie des Tortues Turtle Bay is a beautiful sandy beach which is popular with swimmers and nesting sea turtles. Baie des Tortues is lined with wildly contorted Araucaria pine trees which are endemic to New Caledonia. While Baie des Tortues offers a fine beach, its just as famous for its impressive stand of the very rare Araucaria luxurians, which are endemic to New Caledonia. A seriously warped Araucaria pine tree at Baie des Tortues. Araucaria luxurians is a species of conifer which grow to a height of 40 metres, but whose trunks are very narrow at just 70 centimetres. Due to their disproportion, the taller the tree, the greater the lean. Located a short hike along the coast from Baie des Tortuges, Bonhomme is a striking monolith rock formation sculpted by waves. Located a short drive from Bourail, Poe Beach is located at the end of the long and windy Route de Poe. The Heart of Voh is a natural, heart-shaped, bog in the middle of a mangrove swamp, which was made famous by French photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand who featured it on the front cover of his best-selling photography book — Earth from Above. The best way to view the heart is from the sky. With the wonderful and very capable Captain Rudy, flying over Voh. If you are not a guest at Hotel Hibiscus, there are other options. Not cheap, but an unforgettable experience! Approaching the Blue Hole, which is protected by its own fringing reef. While on the flight, we flew over the spectacular Blue Hole — a natural hole in the middle of the lagoon apparently m deep which is surrounded by a fringing reef that acts as a natural protection barrier. The only way to appreciate this wonder is from the air. The Koumac caves are hidden away at the end of a forested pathway, a few kilometres east of Koumac. The highlight of Koumac is the Koumac Caves , which are two limestone caves located at the end of the road on the eastern inland outskirts of town. The main cave is around 2. The Seabreeze catamaran provides a regular connection between Koumac and the Belep archipelago. If you wish to travel to the remote northern Belep Islands , you can take the daily Seabre ez e catamaran from Koumac Marina. The catamaran completes the km journey in 4 hours, departing Koumac at and arriving in Belep at On the return journey, the catamaran departs Belep at , arriving in Koumac at The far north of La Grande Terre is characterised by arid, hilly countryside, which reminded me of Australia. The drive to the far northern tip of La Grand Terre takes you on an isolated road, through beautiful, hilly countryside to the small settlement of Poum after which the road becomes a dusty, gravel track to the most northern point on the mainland — Boat Pass. Boat Pass is the most northern point on La Grande Terre. In my rental car on the road to the far northern settlement of Poum. The most luxurious accommodation at the top-end of the island can be found south of Poum. With a drop of metres, Cascade de Tao is the highest waterfall in New Caledonia as well as the most impressive, plunging in two dramatic leaps with several sloping tiers. The town itself is a very small, quiet village which offers very limited services no supermarket, one gas station located miles from anywhere and one restaurant with limited opening hours. If you are interested in Scuba Diving , their are several reefs offshore which provide interesting diving. The Isle of Pines was named by Captain James Cook who was intrigued by the unique, towering Araucaria pine trees, which can be found all over the island. The main settlement on the Isle of Pines, Vao is a sleepy village which is home to one school, one grocery store, a church, a government administration building and not much else! A true paradise! Kuto Bay on the Isle of Pines. The beautiful Kanumera Bay lies a short walk from Kuto bay. Located around the corner from Kuto bay, the equally stunning Kanumera Bay is the perfect place to swim and snorkel. There are several accommodation options at the southern end of the bay. An abandoned penal cell block in the village of Ouro on the west coast of the Isle of Pines. Penal Buildings — north of Kuto Bay, in the village of Ouro are the abandoned remains of various penal buildings, including cell blocks. The whole complex is very overgrown and deserted and at one point it did seem like I was on the set of an Indiana Jones movie. A very cool place to explore! A White-faced Heron, fishing for a meal, at Baie de Gadji. Located on the northwest side of the Isle of Pines, Baie de Gadji is a protected bay which is a favoured anchorage for visiting yachts. With its bleached white beaches, uninhabited islands, turquoise blue water and world-class snorkelling, weary sailors tend to get stuck here. Grotte de la Reine Hortense — Located near the airport, the impressive Grotte de la Reine Hortense is reached by a short pathway which meanders through a lush rainforest. A lush forest surrounds the Grotte de la Reine Hortense. The cave is named after Queen Hortense , the wife of a local chief, who is believed to have taken refuge here for several months during intertribal conflict in Araucaria pine trees provide the perfect backdrop for the Piscine Naturelle on the Isle of Pines. This natural pool occupies a stunning setting which includes a backdrop of soaring Araucaria pine trees. The pool is cut-off from the nearby ocean so is very protected and includes a dazzling array of marine life — even a Lionfish or two! A roadside Kanak cemetery on the Isle of Pines. Downtown is not too charming and offers few hotels, while the main tourist hubs are the two beachside neighbourhoods of Baie des Citrons and Anse Vata — a short drive south of downtown. A modern, funky, well-designed hotel, this property would be perfect if it was located anywhere else in town, however its setting in a semi-industrial zone on the northern outskirts of town makes this option totally unappealing. Hotel Beaurivage — Part of the national Grands Hotel group, Beaurivage is perfectly located on the beach in Baie des Citrons and always priced to sell. Overlooking the beach, this well-designed hotel features spacious rooms, plenty of parking and is a short walk from the many restaurants and bars of Baie des Citrons. A perfect option! Interior of my shipping container room in La Foa. While in town, I stayed with the amazing Christophe French expat and Jenny his Indonesian wife , a wonderful couple who have set up a guest room in a converted shipping container in the garden of their property on the outskirts of town. The container has been furnished with wooden furniture imported from Indonesia and Jenny occasionally cooks Indonesian dinners for her guests. You can book their container through Airbnb. Interior of my shipping container room in La Foa, complete with Indonesian furniture. The only hotel option in La Foa is the colonial-era relic that is Hotel Banu. Located on the main road, it seems the hotel was last renovated during the colonial period and as such gets mixed reviews. I stayed at Hotel La Nea , which consists of a barricaded, private street which is lined with thirty private, spacious bungalows. Apparently, the bungalows were originally built to house construction workers who worked on the massive Koniambo mine in nearby Voh. The bedroom of my shipping container guest house near Koumac. Like most towns in New Caledonia, accommodation options in Koumac are very limited. I booked another shipping container guest house through Airbnb, which was located km south of town on the main highway. With the addition of a 2nd container, Claudia and Pascal have created a spacious shipping container experience which includes a kitchen and living area. The exterior of my shipping container guest house at Koumac. The addition of the 2nd container allows plenty of space for a bedroom, bathroom, kitchen and living area. The containers are surrounded by a private garden area with seating. You can book the container through Airbnb. The resort is popular with visiting French families who book all-inclusive packages. The meals served in the restaurant are amazing, with French chiefs elevating buffet dining into an art form rarely seen. Accommodation options on the Isle of Pines are limited and the island is popular so best to book well in advance. Even on a stormy day, Kuto Bay is still magnificent. I stayed at the wonderful Hotel Kou Bugny which is located across the road from the stunning Kuto Bay. Located around the corner from Kou-Bugny, on picturesque Kanumera bay, is the very comfortable Oure Tera resort , which is owned by the same competent folks who run the deluxe Kanua Tera Ecolodge at Port de Boise. The resort serves the best coffee on the island. The capital of this French territory is home to many fine dining options with French chiefs regularly trading in the cold, European weather for a spell of balmy, tropical warmth. Baseball caps line the ceiling of the bar at the Hotel Banu in La Foa. Food and service here are very good. Open from early morning to early evening, 7 days a week, this slice of heaven offers crusty, artisanal baguettes , the freshest, buttery croissants , pain au chocolat and an amazing selection of sandwiches and pastries. The best and only restaurant option in Koumac is the excellent, waterfront Le Skipper. Like most restaurants in New Caledonia, this one closes after lunch I arrived at pm and was too late and reopens at pm for dinner. This roadside, converted shipping container, closes promptly at 2 pm and while I was there, some unlucky hungry tourists were turned away since they had arrived just after closing time. The only restaurant option in the village is at the hilltop Ka Waboana Lodge , which — like most establishments in New Caledonia — closes between meals — check their website for current operating hours. Dining options on the Isle of Pines are very limited. The restaurant serves buffet-style meals and is closed outside of mealtimes. The adjacent terrace bar serves snacks throughout the day. Prices are not too scary but the food is hit and miss. While New Caledonia is an overseas collectivity of France, it is not part of the Schengen Area and as such applies its own visa policy which largely mirrors the Schengen Area policy. Generally, EU citizens are free to enter and reside indefinitely while many other passport holders are granted a 3-month stay. To check your requirements, click here. Immigration in the French territories is the breeziest of anywhere in the Pacific. No questions asked, no need to show a return ticket, nothing! Most visitors are processed in a matter of seconds — the way travel should be! Located on the north coast, km north of Noumea, the very quiet La Tontouta airport is the international gateway to New Caledonia. Taxis rarely make it out to the airport as most people in the know avoid the unnecessary expense and take the airport shuttle service which is operated by Arc en Ciel, which is located outside the terminal doors, next to the rental car counters. A one way fare to Noumea is 3, CFP. Cruise ships dock at the container terminal in Noumea and occasionally visit the Isle of Pines , where they dock in the very beautiful Kuto Bay. The view from my flight to the Isle of Pines. You are only allowed one 1 carry-on item which must not exceed 5 kg. The normal rule of one carry-on and one personal item does not apply for domestic flights in New Caledonia. There are three different bus companies offering connections around Noumea and throughout La Grand Terre:. Taxis are not always easy to find in Noumea, especially after-hours. There are currently 65 taxis operating in Noumea and most of these are unavailable outside of business hours. If you need to take a taxi in the evening or anytime on a weekend, you should order one well in advance I once waited 40 minutes for a taxi to arrive on a Saturday morning. Full details on tariffs can be viewed here. My rental car, crossing a river in a remote corner of Le Grand Sud region. All the usual rental car companies are represented at Tontouta airport and in downtown Noumea. A rental car is the best way to explore the many remote corners of La Grand Terre. The French government spends a healthy amount on infrastructure, making a road-trip on New Caledonia a pleasant experience. Car rental offices often close for two hour lunch breaks so best to confirm their opening hours before you visit. With a complete lack of public transport, a rental car is the best way to explore the Isle of Pines. Current schedules and tariffs are available on their website. Darren McLean. Spread the love. A traditional Kanak wood carving. The flag of New Caledonia. All SIM cards have a minimum contract period of 6 months, rendering them useless for tourists. Call and data charges are high and if staying in the country more than a week, you will find it necessary to top-up. Street art in downtown Noumea. Joseph Cathedral in Noumea. A view over Baie des Tortues. A view of the lagoon from Poe beach. A roadside cemetery on La Grand Terre. New Caledonia passport stamps. Isle of Pines Airport. A New Caledonia license plate. Over the centuries, the Wallisians have combined C. The French territory of Wallis and Futuna is home. On final approach to Wallis Island from Futuna Isl. Departing Futuna Island today on the twice daily s. Load More Follow on Instagram. Melanesia New Caledonia. Leave a Reply Cancel reply.
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