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Having settled our expenses in the hotel in Maribor, we were off to Venice, the departure port or our cruise, in no time. It took us a little more than 3 and a half hours to get there, following the lovely Slovenian highways and then the busy Italian ones. We parked the car at a convenient place, memorized the location : and headed off with our luggage towards the arrivals terminal, where we could hop on to the ATVO bus bound to Piazzale Roma in Venice. From there we took the People Mover and we got under the MSC flags at the port in no time some details about how to get there are in my previous post. From there, checking in to the MSC Fantasia was not a quick process. Step 1 — show your boarding pass and drop off your suit-cases : You have to stand at the end of one of the long-long queues and patiently wait until you get up front to show the ticket, get a bunch of welcome papers, and directions about where to leave your luggage and where to continue to proceed with checking in. Step 3 — security : Almost as checking in to an airplane, you have to walk through a metal detector somewhat lighter version and then you may proceed to the ship. No more words here, just watch:. After waking up from the initial shock of encountering the ship, the next challenge is to find your room. Everything is well labeled, but still it is a labyrinth. We had a windowless, interior room, on the 12th floor, because we figured we would not stay too much in the cabin during the day and boy we were right…. The initial encounter was not bad: everything was well prepared apart from the Russian! Our luggage did not arrive to our room, yet, so we went to the reception and here… I had to take another video:. There was one more important thing to do at the reception: giving our MSC Cards some more power. After this was done, we had all the power to freely move around and access almost all facilities of the ship. Next stop, was the Zanzibar bar on the 14th floor, where we could take a plate and just fill it up with any kind of food. The selection was huge. And because we were hungry, the pile on the plates got huge, too. This was the first time we had to use one of our MSC Cards for payment, too: every type of food is free at the buffet, but you have to pay for the beverages apart from water and the liquid called coffee coming from the machine. The price for a coke 0. After our delightful lunch, we were ready to take part in the compulsory safety training, so we had to go to our meeting point indicated by our cards together with our life-vests from our room and listen to the instructions. This was necessary to be done by all guests and we could not leave before this training was done. Once this finished, we were ready to go up to the sun-deck 15th floor and take part on the departure ceremony. By the time the houses of Venice got small enough to be boring, we went back to our cabin, and to our delight, we have found our suitcases already delivered there. This was wonderful news: we could at last get a shower and prepare for the evening show at the theater. We were 2nd seating diners, this meant that the show for us started at It was OK, I was not that hungry, yet, anyway… The first show was very interesting: full of acrobatic moves, singing and dancing. It was a lovely 45 minutes, where we first encountered the animator team of the ship also. The next big event of the day, was the dinner from Dinner on the ship for us meant gourmet-style dining, complete with white dress waiters and words you cannot even pronounce from your menu. All the food was included in the ticket price, so we just had to choose what to eat and eat it. Again, we had to use our MSC Cards for water and wine that we wanted to consume during our dinner. After a tasteful dinner, we were ready to go to bed: it was a long day, with a lot of new things and we already had to be ready for the first destination of the cruise the next day…. Our route took us through Hungary and into Slovenia. After arriving to Maribor, we checked in our hotel and went out to explore a bit this little town. Given the better weather, we discovered that apart from the center, there is much life also in the river banks. There are nice pathways to just stroll around, have some fresh air and admire the swans. If you fancy you can also get into the many local bars and restaurants lined up there. An interesting POI that I just learned about is the house of the oldest grapevine in the world over years old : After enough walking around on the river banks, we decided to grab something to eat. We sat down at the most populated restaurant Grill Ranca which served local dishes and tried to figure out the what the names of the dishes meant. Luckily the waitress spoke a little English and with her help we found out, that most of the dishes contain minced meat it was basically the same grilled, minced meat served in different ways. Anyway, I think the food is OK, even for such a limited variety. It basically resembles a well made burger without the buns and if you like burgers, then this is worth a try. After somewhat filling our bellies, we had a nice walk back to the hotel and prepared for the next day, which was the most promising of all: the first contact with the cruise-ship. I always went with a camera which has very good zoom and tried to make close-up photos of what life could be like on the ship. Well… I could not get much out from outside I must admit… Anyway, I decided, that when I had the chance, I would book a trip on it, to find out directly what life could be like on such a ship. To book a voyage on such a ship, I had to apply for the help of a tourism-agency, so that part was taken care of quite easily. We chose a 7-day trip in the Eastern-Mediterranean in the end of September starting from and returning to Venice. I did not ask, however, for anything else from the agency. Well from Cluj, there are mainly 2 options: by plane or by car. By plane getting to Venice is not very easy, as there are no daily flights between the two cities, so additionally to the plane tickets, we would have needed to take into account hotel stays also in Venice. This would not have been such a bad idea, if we had not visited Venice already … The second option is of course: by car. This was not such a relaxing option, but if I counted with a 2 day trip one way with staying at a hotel somewhere in the middle, it did not seem to be such a bad idea… It also had the added value of no limits with our luggage… So the decision has been made: get to Venice in a 2 day trip by car and get back again following the same route. The plan was ready. But what about the details? Well, one important detail was: what to do with the car once we get there? After some Google-ing around, I found the long term parking at Venice Airport to offer the best prices. You can book ahead I used the license plate recognition system and get a discounted price. Getting from there to the ship terminal was the same as if you had arrived by plane: jump up to the ATVO line which leaves every 30 minutes and in about 20 minutes it gets you to Piazzale Roma. Actually there is a detailed guide about how to get there on this website. The next important detail was: what places to choose as stopping points on the two way trips? For this I chose a location I already knew: the Slovenian town of Maribor. In Maribor I chose also a hotel that I knew very well: hotel Orel, which is basically in the city center, offers free parking and has a decent price. On the return trip the location was Budapest , just cuz we were familiar with it, too. So there you have it. The plan ready made, we just had to try and follow the checkpoints in a journey which took us 10 days and I will write about it in the following posts. The city is situated on the Drava river at the bottom of the mountain Pohorje. Unfortunately I did not have much time to explore Maribor itself, but the hotel itself Hotel Orel , where we stayed, was right in the heart of the city. It is important to note, that Maribor is planned to be the European Capital of Culture in So, the slopes. The slopes on Pohorje are OK. The difficulty of the slopes varies from easy blue trails to steep black ones. Personally I enjoyed the winding blue slopes mixed with a few wide, red shortcuts. Although it was the middle of the week the slopes were quite crowded, with children learning to ski, but also with pro-skiers thundering down with high speed. There is a quite modern system of cable-cars and open-chairs which one can use to go back up the top after a fun-ride down. I have no idea about the prices, because for us it was included in the holiday-package we just asked for it at the ticket-shop, presenting the papers they gave us at the hotel. The music was the exact sound as the German counterparts, just that they were all in Slovenian. I guess neighboring countries borrow a lot from each-other. And speaking of neighboring countries: Slovenia is also neighbor with Italy. Italy is famous for their pizzas. That was borrowed also: I do not know if it was the fact that I was hungry or not, but the pizza I ate in a restaurant at the bottom of the slopes was really-really good. The Pohorje slopes also allow evening-skiing. The front part of the slope-system can be entirely lit in the evening. So after the break between 4PM to 6PM , when the slopes were closed, the second part of the skiing-day started and the slopes were lit to allow skiing in the evening. I did not try it because I was always too tired of the morning rides, but it was quite an interesting sight from the city to see the slopes lit on the neighboring mountain. Because I am a fairly newbie skier, this year I have only bought ski-boots, because I was told they were more important that the skis themselves. The skis: I have rented them at the bottom of the slopes. The good thing about renting was that I could leave the equipment at the renting office every day, so I did not have to drag them with me every day. The holiday package also included free pass into the local wellness center: a good place to relax after a day of skiing. We used it every day. They have a lot of things from different types of jacuzzi, to sauna. They also had an outside swimming pool with hot water in it. First I have to say I am sorry for the long time span during which my blog has been in the same state. Think this is what happens when someone goes on vacation for a week before another busy week at work. So… where was I? Well, I went skiing. In this post I would like to talk about the road to our destination: Maribor, Slovenia. About Maribor and the ski-slopes I will tell in the next part of this double article. That story requires a bit more writing and my fingers right now are not suitable for that great task… In this article I am going to talk about something much more important than the skiing itself: how to get there? Since I decided to go by car, I had planned a simple route using Google maps. This is what the plan looked like:. This meant a simple drive from our sluggish roads until I got to the Hungarian highways. From there on it was a piece of cake. The roads are new, consequently still good and the traffic was always acceptable. After Hungary, the portion which worried me a bit was the supposed break of the Slovenian highway A5. On Google maps it looked like this I made a snapshot because this might change soon : I have actually printed the map in high detail in case I got lost on the side-roads which connect the two loose ends of the highway. I was not paying attention to the conversion and they charged me 30RON for the vignette nice busyness…. I did not have to re-fuel so I have no idea on fuel prices, but I am guessing a little over the Hungarian prices. This is what the plan looked like: View Larger Map.
Maribor: A city that is allowed to rebel
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That is the general picture, to which, when Maribor is experienced first-hand, two more colors should be added - hospitality and Yugonostalgia. So forty journalists from Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro, coincidentally or not, in this city on November 29 and the corresponding weekend, had the opportunity to get acquainted with the rich tradition, culture, natural beauty, tourist facilities, but also the spirit of this place. Our host was the luxurious 'Habakuk', which, along with four other hotels and the 'Fontana' medical and thermal center, operates within the 'Terme Maribor' company. Located at the bottom of Pohorje, the core of the town, whose name was first mentioned in the XNUMXth century, is a witness to its rich history, but also to the adversities that befell it. There are also two imposing cathedrals, and the older one, from the XNUMXth century, is used for concerts and ceremonial receptions in addition to religious ceremonies. The people of Maribor are especially proud of Stara trta - a vine tree planted years ago and listed in the Guinness Book of Records. In his honor, a museum was opened in which the entire history of Maribor's winemaking tradition is presented, which guests can taste. While we are watching a promotional tourist film in the museum, we are delighted to learn that today's representative building was once home to beggars. It is located on the banks of the Drava River, where many swans swim, and the old bridge that connects the two sides of the city dominates the landscape. The surrounding green hills no snow yet are mostly covered with vines, while the favorite picnic spot and tourist destination, Pohorje, is overgrown with forest, except for places reserved for ski slopes. More information about other local sights can be easily googled, but Slovenians would be the happiest to show them to the residents of Montenegro in person. We go to your place more often', says Pisanec from the Tourism Organization of Maribor. When asked why Montenegrins should visit her city, she answers: 'There are many reasons. It's nice to hang out and we should work on getting the relationship between us back to normal. Jugonostalgia is felt at every step, which, combined with the kindness and hospitality of the Slovenians, ensures that you feel like a welcome guest. In Slovenia, there is no need to speak English or any other language, most of them use the dominant ex-YU speech, and even if this is not the case, it is easy to get along. The people of Maribor, like, for example, the people of Cetinje, are proud to have resisted the Turks, but unlike the Montenegrins, they also have an example of rebellion against adversity in recent history. A year ago, the controversial mayor Franz Kangler resigned after massive civil protests. Known for corruption scandals, this politician crossed the limit of tolerance of his fellow citizens by installing speed control radars throughout the city. We would understand if they were in places where they are important for security, say at the approaches to schools. Already on the first day, the system generated more than a thousand fines', said the Montenegrin interviewee. She explains that humans first started destroying the radars. One night the people of Maribor stole license plates from the mayor's car, put them on a vehicle identical to his and committed about a hundred violations'. Mass protests followed. Protesters' messages 'It's over' are still on the city walls, and the fight for a better life is not over yet. In order to visit the Udarnik cinema, we are prevented by a gathering of local activists that is taking place right there. This cinema, opened in the Yugoslavian era, is now owned by a private individual. It also has a cafe, and broadcasts art films, exiled from big chains like Cineplexx yes, Slovenians have it too. As part of the journalistic arrangement, which was justifiably named 'Three Days of Hedonism', we visited several catering establishments and convinced ourselves that tradition has great importance in the tourist offer. We ate exclusively Slovenian specialties, drank exclusively Slovenian drinks, from Maribor wine to 'Raden's three hearts'. Indispensable in the local cuisine are mushrooms and blueberries, whose most impressive reincarnation is in the form of brandy. And the entertainment program was mostly in that spirit, so we were welcomed by tambourine players in the restaurant 'Pri treh ribnikih' At the Three Ponds , and at the winery Hafner by members of the folklore ensemble 'Student', who during the 'interactive' performance tried to learn Slovenian folk dances. Then he served us a real 'peasant' dinner from the neighbor's kitchen, which she makes exclusively from ingredients she produces herself. That's why, after a late dinner, we miss the organized trip to the 'New Fossils' concert in the casino and go for a night out. In the 'Huda Kava' bar, we find the waiter asking to bring us some local beer. He recommends hemp beer - it's not local, but it's a specialty of the house. Smoking is not allowed, but unlike in Montenegro, the law is respected, so there are as many visitors in front as inside, despite the fact that the air temperature is at zero. Then we go to 'Tildo's' for a Slovenian specialty - a 'fuzl' cocktail served in a jar. When, while 'struggling' with the jar liter ones are also suitable, we find out , we bump into Dr. Sebastian Pieberl, one of the medical experts at the Habakuk Hotel, and we begin to feel at home. We consult with his company and come to the conclusion that it is not harmful for health to drink up to four jars of fuzel. Next in line is the jazz club 'Satchmo', in front of which we also meet a familiar face - one of the members of the cultural and artistic troupe 'Student', who during the visit to the winery presented Slovenian folklore to journalists. With the conversation, we almost forget that we need to enter the club. In both places, the authentic look of the ceiling and red brick walls is adapted to the purpose of the space. It is already late, so we are welcomed by the Fajoront team, small in number, but in a good mood. It's Republic Day, and Tito's picture and the school map of Yugoslavia testify that an appropriate program was held earlier that evening. Friendly conversation and evoking memories. Disbelief and laughter in the company because we haven't even heard the song. Darja Pernat, who runs the bar together with her husband, sends us off with a hug. We leave with a full heart, richer for several acquaintances. In the former Manchester of the former state, there is almost no industry, and unemployment is the highest in Slovenia. The stories of the locals sound familiar - dubious privatizations and company shutdowns. That is why young people from Maribor are increasingly looking for work in Graz, so many travel to Austria every day an hour in both directions. For some, that is enough. Darja Pernat does not share our enthusiasm for Maribor's civic awareness. I ask them why they are not protesting, and they say that they are fine - they have to eat, they have a place to sleep, in the student dormitory. And 'tamici' still serve. We also found a well-preserved specimen at the top of Pohorje, in front of the Belvi Hotel, which was once visited by Josip Broz Tito. While we arrived from the foothills in a few minutes by modern cable car, it took about an hour by the 'Tamic' route. Maribor has about Unlike the main Montenegrin one, the second largest Slovenian city has an opera, a ballet, a recreation center with two indoor swimming pools, red-marked bicycle paths Public areas, but also private properties, are perfectly arranged, the locals boast that this part of Styria neater and more beautiful even than the Austrian one. A large number of festivals and various manifestations give the city liveliness throughout the year, and two years ago it was declared the European capital of culture. In Slovenia, security is at a high level, there is almost no violence on the streets. The prices in shops and bars are a little higher, just enough that shopping is not worth it, but don't panic when the waiter brings the bill. Taxi transportation is much more expensive than in Podgorica. Both of them agree that our life is more difficult now, and the standard is worse. On the other hand, it is easy to 'capture' a Slovene, and it is difficult to force a Montenegrin to work. Until he comes to Slovenia, because Montenegrins here are mostly successful businessmen'. The easiest way to travel is by plane, by which you can get from Podgorica to Ljubljana, and then by highway or train to Maribor about km. If you are going by land, as soon as you arrive in Croatia, you will be greeted by a highway that allows you to get wherever you need to go relatively quickly. It is about an hour's drive from Zagreb to Maribor, and all of Slovenia is connected by highways. Everyone gets off the bus, the counter clerk scans the passports, while another walks through the bus. This procedure takes at least half an hour, if there is no crowd. Four times in all, at the Serbian-Croatian and Croatian-Slovenian crossings. Although Croatia has recently joined the European Union, the border with Slovenia, with all its charms, remains for two more years. And while, during the double entry into the EU, the other border guards didn't even call us good morning greetings, thanks, smiles don't cause reactions , the Slovenian official shouted at his colleagues - because they were talking while waiting for him to scan their passports. It is much easier to leave the EU. There was no getting off the bus, and the friendly Croatian woman significantly improved our opinion about the workers at the crossings and convinced us that polite communication does not contradict their PS. He comes at least twice a year with his wife and security. Habakuk, built in , is part of Terma Maribor, a company that supported itself after privatization from free shops on the borders with Italy and Austria, selling real estate and selling cigarettes. The company was bought by anonymous Russians last year for 30 million euros. The head of Terma is Borut Rojs, formerly employed by the company Hit from Nova Gorica, which, among other things, manages the Maestral casino in Budva. Casino Maribor was a former part of Terma, according to European law it could no longer be, so since it has been a segment of Hita. Habakuk with its new management headed by the well-known Croatian tourist worker, Matko Vrdoljak, is also promoting a new business strategy. Instead of relying on the hitherto unprofitable ski tourism, which is dependent on the weather, it is planned that this luxury complex will become one of the leading medical and wellness centers in the region. It will also rely on congress and sports tourism, and will try to make maximum use of the natural wealth - the healing thermal water in the pools of this hotel. In addition to all that, hospitality and an intimate relationship with guests, according to Vrdoljak, who personally welcomed the journalists and delighted most at first sight, are indispensable in modern tourism. We want our guests to leave refreshed, freed from stress, without the effects being short-lived. That's why we have brought famous names from the world of medicine to the hotel, who will give all guests a free picture of the state of their body and advice for irregular steps towards revitalization. We will also have an orthopedic block, and we will also offer minimal aesthetic procedures,' said Vrdoljak. In order to achieve the goal of 'not being recognized at home', numerous wellness, spa and beauty programs are available to visitors. Prices vary depending on the period and package, and a one-day stay in a double room costs from around 70 October - 22 December to euros during the New Year holidays. Home World Balkans Maribor: A city that is allowed to rebel 'Both Slovenians and Montenegrins are nostalgic for the South, although not always explicitly. Both agree that life is more difficult for us now, and the standard is worse. Bonus video:.
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