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After breakfast and check-out at the hotel I made my way to the cable car station to get up the mountain. A part of me already started missing the mountains and having days of hiking ahead of me. At least some days! Not much for a long-distance hiker! Devon would certainly be ahead of me and the South Africans already finished their hike. I was wondering if I would meet any trail friends on my last day at all. Around every corner I was expecting some improvement and the chance to relax but most of the time I was disappointed. The scenery was great, though. On my way along the mountain I could see countless paragliders hanging in the — of course — blue sky over Chamonix. After meters of elevation gain I reached Planpraz which is basically a skilift station. But at some stage I would be up there and things would get better. Or so I thought. At the col was still a lot of snow but the uphill leading snowcrossing on the ridge looked much more scary than it was. Did they all quit earlier? I was tempted too yesterday. But here I was standing in ankle deep snow and stumbeling through countless rocks. And I enjoyed it! I had to concentrate on my steps. Slowly I made my way through rocks and followed a path up the mountain until it just stopped. Was I right? Looking around I saw some people crossing a snowfield further down. That must be the trail! I backtracked a few meters and made my way on steep terrain towards the snowfield. A family came towards me. Already from the distance I could hear the woman in the front breathing heavily. She was doing what I would do very soon: digging every foot into the snow. When they passed me I asked for the rest of the trail and was assured that it would be not as sketchy as this. Well, not really… The best was yet to come! The trail led around the mountain in a big bend and started to look a lot better when it suddenly disappeared. I stopped. Where was the trail? To the left was the mountain and to the right a steep drop-off into a huge valley. Up on some rocks I could see three people climbing. And then I saw the ladders followed by a handrail. But the problem was actually how to get to the start of the ladders. A snowfield was still blocking the main route and it was either crossing above the snowfield or underneath. I watched an older French guy and two kids climbing down slowly. It took forever and gave me enough time to think about a bail out option. A helicopter would be nice right now. The man and the two kids passed me and I just wondered how you can take your young kids on that section. The little girl nearly slipped. A couple came from the back and I let them pass and go ahead. It would take me some time to overcome my fear of the heights and get started. I watched the couple cross above the snowfield and their difficulties told me that I had to go underneath. The short section I had to cross looked horribly steep and judging from the footmarks other people have been more sliding than hiking. Looking down into the valley I definitely wanted to avoid slipping and sliding at all costs. Highly concentrated I sat down on my butt directly on the trail and reached down with my right leg to place my foot somewhere on the steep mountain side. Must have been a very special sight! I managed to stand up again and find hold with my left foot as well. A couple more steps and I reached a wall of grown rocks. Holding my trekking poles in one hand I started climbing up the rocks with hands and feet. Covered in sweat I arrived at the start of the ladders and thankfully grabbed the cold metal that provided stability. Up the ladders was not a problem. I even managed to take a couple of photos. After the ladders a handrail gave additional safety for the last meters of climbing over grown rocks. As soon as I reached something that looked like a proper trail again I had to sit down and catch my breath. What a climb! It was still uphill and over snow afterwards but it was nothing compared to what I had been through. They told me about other hikers we know at the summit. I felt like skipping the additional meters to the summit but changed my mind after I said goodbye to the American couple. At the summit I bought the most expensive coke ever 4 Euros for a can!! I looked around. But it was important to me — maybe more than ever — to hike every step and finish in Les Houches. Seeing some dark rain clouds coming in the distance I dumped the coke and started what should be a never-ending downhill section. It started gentle and I was in a hurry because dark clouds were approaching from the other valley. I wanted to get down as far as I could before the rain started. It should never rain on me that day. Steep and dangerous for the knees and with occasional rock climbing sections it was far from being a relaxing end of the hike. After endless switchbacks and descending through a pine forest I reached a car park still 50 minutes away from Les Houches. It was the moment when my feet hit the concrete of this car park when I realized that my hike on the TMB was over. I had just finished the km circuit around the highest mountain of the European Alps! Walking down the car park I had to fight back some tears. Tears of happiness — hiking the TMB is a big accomplishment for every hiker who does it and especially for me in this year of Tears of sadness — my time in these wonderful mountains came to an end and very soon I had to say goodbye to my hiking friends. My finish in Les Houches was rather unspectacular. Walking down the main street and passing by the church I finally arrived at the bus stop next to Gite Michel Fagot. No other hikers were around. I asked a guy to take a photo of me in front of the church but the outcome is not presentable at all. He cut off my feet and I look way too tired…. Waiting for my bus to chamonix and looking at the Gite I stayed at only two weeks ago I realized that I was not the same anymore. The mountains had changed me. We had all planned to meet at a local pub and watch the soccer game France against Belgium and of course celebrate our TMB hike! There were just too many people because of the game. And so I was a little bit hungry when I made my way back to the hotel. Strangers from all over the world became my friends. No matter if we met on day 2 and basically stayed together for the whole trip, if we shared a lunch or a piece of cheese, if we bumped into each other every now and then or if you just were around on a sketchy section… YOU made my hike on the TMB an awesome and unforgettable experience! Email Address. Sign up. Sonia you are a gutsy lady.. Thank you Joan. On the trails and in life. All we can do is keep on walking! Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. My bicycle — Thorn Nomad MK2. My complete Bicycle Touring Gear List. This site uses cookies. By continuing to browse the site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. We may request cookies to be set on your device. We use cookies to let us know when you visit our websites, how you interact with us, to enrich your user experience, and to customize your relationship with our website. Click on the different category headings to find out more. You can also change some of your preferences. Note that blocking some types of cookies may impact your experience on our websites and the services we are able to offer. These cookies are strictly necessary to provide you with services available through our website and to use some of its features. 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Please be aware that this might heavily reduce the functionality and appearance of our site. Changes will take effect once you reload the page. Follow me on my adventures Sign up and you will get an email notification whenever I release a new blog post. Maps were disabled by the visitor on this site. Click to open the map in a new window. Hiking towards Planpraz m. Final snowcrossings. Where is my helicopter?! The end of an awesome adventure. He cut off my feet and I look way too tired… Waiting for my bus to chamonix and looking at the Gite I stayed at only two weeks ago I realized that I was not the same anymore. To my hiking friends. Back to the overview! Tour du Mont Blanc. Want to read more about hiking…? Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Snowshoeing in the Austrian Alps. Crossing the European Alps. Leave a Reply Want to join the discussion? Feel free to contribute! Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. 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TMB day 11 – La Flégère to Les Houches

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I spent my twenty-fourth birthday on the West Highland Way. I open a couple of birthday cards before heading down to breakfast. What Residence ATC Routes du Monde lacks in charm it more than makes up for in its breakfast spread: fresh viennoiseries , fruit salad, yogurts, cereals and sliced baguette. Exhibit A: a lady breakfasting in a towelled poncho just how hard is it to get dressed before you come down for breakfast? Exhibit B: a lady who took a seat at a table so far, so normal and then proceeded to touch every single mug on the table and inspect them for cleanliness …not so normal. We drop our key in the pot on the reception desk and make tracks. Visibility is close to zilch: hazy outlines of trees; a greyish void to the side of the path. Were it not for the steady trickle of walkers heading up towards Lac Blanc, it would feel rather eerie. I go first; Laurence follows. Chalet du Lac Blanc is doing a brisk trade in coffees and light snacks. We grab a table with a view and fuel up on caffeine. Even in mid-July, Lac Blanc has a thin sheet of ice on the surface and is surrounded by snowy slopes. Rucksacks off, snacks out; a little something to tide us over until lunchtime. We pull out ham baguettes, peaches, crisps and stroopwafels and tuck into one of our best picnics on the trail. While we were busy munching, a group of trail runners came past. Some of them were in need of a few drops of water, and when we gave them some their leader joked they should have to pay us! Suffice it to say, it looked rather different in the height of summer. Ahead of us, an ibex traverses the boulders. We stop, transfixed, as do the two French women in front of us. We spot the two walkers behind us head down towards the cable car; there are just four of us left on the trail. We pull out our slightly squashed viennoiseries , hoping a little sugar rush will see us through the next couple of hours. More ibex put in an appearance: they bound through shrubs and perch on rocky outcrops, undeterred by our presence. We cut through woodland and soon reach the perimeter of the Parc de Merlet, a wildlife park home to deer, llama, ibex, chamois, mouflons and marmots amongst other creatures. We pick up the pace a little — the end is in sight — and reach the finish at eight-thirty. Like Liked by 1 person. Dear Rosie, Many thanks for sharing your journey with us! It was great to follow, and re-visit familiar scenes. Your last day was indeed long. We look forward to reading about your next adventure. Glad you enjoyed following along, David! While it was a longer day than anticipated, it worked out well for us — fewer walkers on the trail towards the end of the day meant more wildlife sightings, and a rest day before walking up to Mer de Glace. We really were, and it definitely helped that by late afternoon there were only a handful of us left on the trail. It made for a memorable final day on the TMB! That ladder looks intimidating! Very brave of you to scale that during your hike. The views are stunning — I could totally see why the traditional route goes anti-clockwise round Mont Blanc, as this way you save the best views until the end. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Skip to content. Share this: Twitter Facebook Email. Like Loading Next Gourmandises, a Glacier and Geneva. You were so lucky to see the marmots and Ibex as they usually hide when they see you. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. La Grenouille Anglaise. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.

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