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The final installment will feature some of the processed images from the trip. Chowara seine net fishermen. Chowara BeachEnter a caption. Chewara Beach. Sunset watching, Kovalam. Having misread the departure time on the ticket we arrived by tuk tuk at the station to read on the Departures board that our train, the Guruvayar Express, was due to depart in two minutes … from Platform 5! We were on Platform 1, separated from our train by three tracks and two standing trains and the crossing bridge yards away in the opposite direction. It would be unthinkable in England but we took what we saw as the only option, climbing down onto the track, along it and around the engine of the first train, up on to the platform, across it and down again, across another track and, fuelled by a mixture of panic and adrenaline and with Herculean and, in retrospect, unaccountable strength, hoisting our bags and our exhausted and sweating selves up five feet onto and into the carriage of the second of the standing trains, through it and out on to Platform 4 and across it to Platform 5 — where the Guruvayar Express stood, straining at the bit as seen through our eyes. Our carriage, A1, seemed a mile off and we raced, burdened as we were with the packs and flipflops in hand, along the length of the train through the chai sellers, passengers and porters, ready at each second to dive into the open door of the nearest carriage should the train begin to move. And finally, collapsing into our seats, Side Lower and Side Upper, we sat there panting and shaking with relief and disbelief at what we had just done, waiting for the train to depart. Which it did. Twenty minutes later. Indian readers will, of course, be wondering what all the fuss was about. It was a 10 hour journey to Thiruvannanthapuram, a Saturday afternoon turning to evening and then night as we traced our route back south east towards the tip of the subcontinent and up the west coast, passing through paddy fields, fields of sunflowers, corn, cane and cotton, dry scrub, herds of grazing goats and wallowing pigs, wild peacocks, quiet rural villages, boys playing cricket, past lorries packed with standing passengers waiting at crossings and through deserted stations. At Madurai, whose temple we had visited some years ago, we bought sweet milky coffee and fried savouries wrapped in brown paper from the sellers on the platform, then on through Satur and, as the daylight began to slip away, Kovilpatti and into the night towards Nagercoil and Thiruvannanthapuram. It was after 11 when we arrived. The next day was what we told ourselves was a well-earned day of rest, falling easily into old routines: a long lazy breakfast at the Swiss Cafe, grilled tomatoes, banana and cashew nut porridge and good press coffee, a welcome change after days of idlis, sambar and fiery chutnis; a slow stroll along the beach, a swim in the sea, a cold beer for lunch and a few hours reading in the shade; a gin and tonic at sundown on the roof of a beachside cafe and fish tikka and calamari for dinner. India , kerala , kovalam , Tamil Nadu. Fish, fish, fish. At the jungle pool — washing the tuk tuk, his clothes and himself. The photos here were nearly all taken with a mobile phone. India , kerala , kovalam. The snows of Kashmir are a not altogether pleasant memory. It was Christmas when we were last in Kerala so we arrived here expecting a number of changes and some extensive development, especially on the secluded and relatively unvisited cove below our room at Hotel Aparna on Lighthouse Road. But all is much as we remembered it. In our absence the Russians have been but have now largely gone we are told. Those who knew Lighthouse Beach when it was on the hippie trail from Goa to Sri Lanka must shake their heads at the transformation that it has undergone. And the hippies were themselves preceded by the European tourists of the s who came to what was then the Principality of Travancore to stay at the evocatively named Halcyon Castle, built by the Regent Maharani Sethu Lakshmi Bayi of Travancore as a beach resort. What wonderful pictures of decadence it conjures up. The place is now the luxury hotel the Leela, way out of our budget. Our room at Aparna. On Lighthouse Beach the ring seine net fishermen still share the beach with the tourists, fruit and trinket sellers and the dogs. There are posters up promoting a campaign to have them inoculated against rabies and advice about how to avoid provoking them. The English have been here it seems. The lifeguards have built themselves a new watchtower although it seems unoccupied. Five years ago we sat and watched a boat operated by New Zealanders working out in the bay dropping sand bags to create an artificial reef to encourage surfing. Apparently most of it disappeared in the first monsoon. In the open restaurants that run along the back of the beach there are some familiar faces among the waiters although most seem to have shifted establishment during our five year absence. In the evening they still tout for custom, showing off the trays of ice on which are piled an exotic array of fresh sea food — tiger prawns, crab, squid, marlin, barracuda, kingfish, sear fish, butter fish, red snapper, grouper, sword fish and sea salmon. Who would consider eating anything other than seafood here? Licences to sell alcohol are expensive here but in India there is always a way. Cold Kingfisher beer appears in a bottle wrapped in newspaper; the waiter fills a large tea mug and puts the bottle discreetly on the floor by the leg of the table. Beyond Lighthouse Beach and the rocky promontory where the new lifeguard tower stands and where they used to set off the New Year fireworks, Hawa Beach, seems quieter. This is where the families come on Christmas Day in their colourful finery to paddle and splash in the waves and where hundreds of rowdy and inebriated fishermen come in an armada of boats from nearby Vizhinjam to land, drink, shout and play under the watchful eye of a platoon of smartly dressed policemen. Whatever the reason, long may it continue. The Rockholm Hotel has seen better days. The whole place has a tired and neglected air. The elderly waiter shuffles up to the table on the terrace with the dog-eared menus. We settle for porridge, without the bananas, spicy Marsala omelette, tea and coffee and toast made with the sweet white bread, all good. On the beach below the fishermen have launched the boat and are rowing out trailing the seine net behind them in a huge loop far out into the bay. On shore, others wave their shirts vigorously to indicate where the boat should steer. There is great excitement. The catch is good. Each fisherman takes one for himself. The rest will be taken by boat around the promontory to the market at Vizhinjam. The restaurants will pay to rupees per fish they tell us. A pound or one pound fifty. In the evening, walking down to Lighthouse Beach to eat, we hear the sound of drums. On the beach a small crowd has gathered around the drummers who play for three elaborately costumed dancers. Tonight is a full moon and this is the Theyyam, a spiritual dance that has its origins in northern Kerala. As we watch, far out at sea, the towering plum coloured clouds pulse incessantly with lightning. It is an unforgettable sight. Chowara Beach Boys. Chowra Beach Boys. Fisherman on Chowara Beach. Bringing in the catch on Chowara Beach. The mosque at Vizhinjam. Vizhinjam Mosque. Lighhouse Beach, Kovalam. Christmas Lights at Kovalam. First Light, Rockholm Beach, Kovalam. The mosque at Vizhinjam, Kerala. Tags India , kerala , kovalam , Tamil Nadu. Waiting for breakfast at the Lonely Planet. Tags India , kerala , kovalam. Not the Halcyon Castle. Who would eat anything other than fish? Rockholm Beach and Vizhinjam Light. Dawn on Rockholm Beach and the view to the Vizhinjam mosque. The hotel laundry drying on the rocks. The Theyyam. The storm clouds gather out at sea. Subscribe Subscribed. Travels in India Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.

A small tour to Kovalam - The evergreen City of India #tripotocommunity #kerala #travelphotography

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