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But do not write it off! Read on to learn about some of the enriching experiences that await visitors to this frontier chunk of land. Previously, anyone planning to visit would have needed to catch a ferry from the main island, but the 5km-long Kinmen Bridge was officially opened in , making it easier to pop over and explore at your own pace. Think subterranean tunnel networks, picturesquely aged villages, heritage enterprises, and refreshing local snacks — more than enough to merit allocating a day of your Kinmen adventure to this unique place. Although listed separately on Google Maps, these forts are interconnected and their one-way foot flow means they can only be accessed via the Yongshi Fort side — not far from a popular restaurant serving all manner of taro-based treats. A walkway — barely wide enough for two burly soldiers to squeeze past each other — sinks down into the depths of the earth. As the tunnel begins to level out, it also widens, and the remainder of it is occupied by an exhibition dedicated to the horrors of landmines. Bilingual exhibits detail the painstaking, treacherous, and ultimately successful demining efforts. To leave the tunnel, you have to walk through a simulated minefield. Gravel crunches underfoot and motion sensors trigger an onslaught of flashing lights and the sound of explosions. As mentioned earlier, before Kinmen Bridge opened the only way to get to Little Kinmen was by ferry. Once every 30min the boat from Shuitou Pier would dock, disgorging its cargo of scooters, cars, and foot passengers at Jiugong Pier. From the pier, a short wander along a waterside path will take you to the Jiugong Tunnels and Lieyu Visitor Center. Construction began in , with soldiers laboring to carve interlinking boat and pedestrian tunnels out of the granite bedrock using little more than jackhammers and brawn. The tunnels were designed to facilitate the safe delivery of food and military provisions to the island, and could also be pressed into use as an overflow ward for the hospital if its small complement of beds was full. These days, the pedestrian tunnels are filled with illuminated exhibits introducing the history of the site as well as some of the cultural, ecological, and military scenes from around the island, while the main boat tunnel has been kitted out with lights and a walkway allowing for easy exploration. There are multiple ingress and egress points, and if time permits, you could exit via the Luocuo Village side and stroll back to the pier along the coastal boulevard. Shaxi Fort sits on a protuberance jutting out into the waters at the westernmost limit of Little Kinmen. The m-long main tunnel is tolerable — if narrow — but the shoulder-width offshoots fanning out to low-ceilinged bunkers are decidedly tight. Those who brave the squeeze will be greeted by a blue ceramic figurine of what at first appears to be a troglodytic wind lion god see page A closer look, however, reveals it to be not a lion at all, but a fierce tiger. This is Master Tiger, the tutelary deity of the Tiger Battalion. Deeper in, concrete gun emplacements frame sections of the scenery beyond, the sound of the water slapping against the rocks below loud enough to drown out any footsteps in the passageways behind you. Above ground, a raised wooden walkway snakes over the rocky promontory, terminating at a viewing pavilion facing China. Today, the claim that these thirst-quenching sarsaparilla-flavored beverages served in repurposed rice wine bottles are a luxury seems a little bold, but when the factory opened in the late s, one bottle cost the equivalent of three whole cabbages, putting them beyond the reach of most locals. The factory did a roaring trade, being the only soda producer on islands that housed troops numbering ,odd, but eventually, cheap imported drinks and increasingly salinized groundwater drove them out of business. Currently, visitors can choose from five flavors: sarsaparilla, Kaoliang liquor, lemon, smoked plum, and mulberry — the last four of which are made using local ingredients and without artificial flavorings. And for visitors who want a unique — if perishable — souvenir from their trip, there is the option to enjoy a DIY bottling activity. Just as in Donglin, the fortunes of neighboring Xifang have ebbed and flowed with the number of soldiers stationed in Kinmen. Today, only traces of its former glory years can be found in the fading hand-painted store signs. Jianianhua Ice Shop is one of a clutch of businesses that have moved in to enliven the sleepy settlement. The firm favorite amongst our Travel in Taiwan team was the honey-taro ice, which comes slathered in a layer of sweetened taro paste along with a scoop of red beans and chewy sweet potato balls and topped with a milk pudding. We also tried a Little Kinmen specialty, bucket pastries in milk. Although Little Kinmen boasts a grand total of two 7-Elevens and one FamilyMart, every single small community has its own mom-and-pop convenience store selling basic necessities, and a trinket or two for stray tourists. Located in a residential building set back from the road, walking inside it feels a little like stepping back in time. A TV plays Taiwanese historical soap operas, and shelves are stacked with lightly dusted boxes of Kaoliang. Taiwan Everything is a guide to traveling and living in Taiwan. Our aim is to give you a good idea about what amazing Taiwan is like. Let us know if you have any questions or suggestions. North Taiwan. Central Taiwan. South Taiwan. East Taiwan. Our Japanese Website. Our Korean Blog. Travel in Taiwan Magazine. Hit enter to search or ESC to close. Kinmen Bridge seen before sunset from the Kinmen side. Yongshi Fort and Landmine Exhibition Museum entrance. Long tunnel with information about landmines. Landmine clearing demonstration. Artillery emplacement. Tie Han Fort exit. Entrance to Lieyu Visitor Center. Exhibits of the visitor center inside the tunnel. Remembering the tunnel builders. Manual labor was primarily used. Walking toward the Luocuo opening of the tunnel. Crescent-shaped bay near Shaxi Fort. Wet, dark, and narrow tunnel. Tiger figurine in the tunnel. Wooden walkway to lookout spot. The modern skyline of Xiamen can be clearly seen. Huanan Soda Factory. Old soda bottles. Old bottle caps. Soda bottling DIY. Jianianhua Ice Shop. A bit of nostalgia inside. Honey-taro ice. Bucket pastries in milk. Yuanxing Store in Qingqi Village. Inside the store. English and Chinese. Post Views: About the author. Ami Barnes. Silversmithing DIY. Special Offers. Prev 1 of Next. Read Travel in Taiwan! Visit our Japanese Site! Visit our Korean Site! Bus tours to the forest! Rent a Bicycle! Find Good Hotels! Twelli October 22, Han Cheung October 18, Ray Hecht September 26, Thanks for visiting our website! Post Map.

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