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So I did. We danced until the sun rose over the teal waters of the Aegean and drank retsina mixed with Coca-Cola. And we ate spit-roasted goat there are two million goats on the island of Evia. Evia, where Athenians come to holiday, is the second largest Greek island after Crete. It faces the Aegean to the east and the Evian Gulf to the west. Thirty years ago I wrote a book about a six-month Evian journey, returning this year for the first time. I recognised my island. I based myself in Karystos, once an ancient city state. From here you can hike along the coast to Marmari on a path with views of the Petali islands. Many of these islands are privately owned, but the heirs of those who built palatial villas here — Maria Callas, Picasso, sundry royals — are not permitted to own chunks of shoreline. This means, for a different adventure, it is possible to catch a water taxi from Karystos to the islands, stop at an empty beach for a picnic, and arrange for the driver to pick you up later. The air smells of lemon thyme and pink judas trees and poppies spread down to the water. Eagles and black falcons circle in the sky. It is a Greece recognisable from the pages of The Iliad. A bus trip up the island reveals how the geography has fostered the development of a series of regions, but all routes filter through Chalkis, the capital, which is joined to the mainland by a bridge. From the east coast, you can sail from Kymi to Skyros, Skopelos and Skiathos. Overall the island has changed less than I have. Men still mend nets on the shore, cats stalk the tavernas and the gathering blue of Karystos Bay in the hour before sunset is as it has always been. The toasts wished the new couple well. You must update your payment details via My Account or by clicking update payment details to keep your subscription. Update payment details. We've tried to contact you several times as we haven't been able to take payment. You must update your payment details via My Account, otherwise your subscription will terminate. Accessibility Links Skip to content. Login Subscribe. Log in Subscribe. Sara Wheeler goes back to Evia after a year gap — and finds little has changed. Sara Wheeler. Saturday November 09 , The harbour church at Nea Artaki on Evia.

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