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Since then, the world has become a very different place and I am a very different man. It is completely involuntary but I smile. I have come home. London is where I was born. It is where I grew up and it is where I live, despite the best efforts of estate agents to price out locals. I love it dearly. However, there is a small part of me that only feels complete when I am walking the curving, sloping streets of this wonderful little town. I often wonder if this is where I am supposed to be. I have visited twice since Covid restrictions were eased. Once in September and again in June I was apprehensive at first. I wondered if the place I have come to think of as a second home would be the same. There are still rows of elderly gentleman on the benches in the piazzas putting the world to rights, with much gesticulating. I am not sure anything could change that. On my first night back, I sat down at Ristorante Il Normanno and was a little unsure with speaking Italian. I used to speak it very well but after several lockdowns and hardly speaking it for the last few years, I had forgotten quite a bit. I was speaking Italian but without confidence. I was reminded why I love it here and indeed Italy so much. It was the sense of the dramatic. That being said, it is time to update my guide. Nothing has changed with regards of things to see and do. It is as sleepy as ever and I love that. However, there are a slew of new additions to report on and some revised recommendations. A magnificent Norman cathedral and the beating heart of the Old Town, the exterior is grand and the Byzantine mosaics inside are well worth viewing. The piazza itself is elegant and full of life, but a bit of a tourist trap. A large rocky cliff overlooking the town, La Rocca is scalable and offers wonderful views of the town and the coast. If you are able bodied, it should take no more than an hour. This medieval washhouse is reached by a small curving staircase and is easily missed. It offers a cool respite from the sometimes overwhelming heat. Rebuilt several centuries ago, it shows where the locals used to clean their clothes and is a well-preserved relic of a bygone age. Standing with your back to the horizon and watching the buildings jutting out over the sea changing colour makes for a lovely, and different, way to watch the sunset. As seen from the Bastione Capo Marchiafava. A lovely crescent shaped beach that is always popular with locals and tourists alike, albeit out of peak-tourist season, it is quieter during the week. There are always a colourful cast of characters selling goods on the beach from selfie-sticks to beach towels to massages. Il Normanno is a restaurant offering a wide-range of Sicilian specialties with outdoor seating on a quiet side-street. It is a fairly laid-back spot with friendly service. Baked instead of the traditional recipe, it is much less sweet and all the better for it. The tiramisu is good too. This was shut when I visited in September and has since re-opened under a different name. The service is a little indifferent but fine. A romantic spot, Le Chat Noir is a huge restaurant housed in a 16th-century building, with the few outside tables concealing the size of the restaurant inside. It offers Sicilian specialties with modern twists such as the deconstructed cassata. Definitely a place to take a loved one. I would advise booking in advance, which you can do via WhatsApp. Sfrigola is solely dedicated to the popular Sicilian street-snack and they have around 20 different fillings, with a good number of vegetarian options too, a rarity in Sicily. It is a tiny shop, more akin to a hole-in-the-wall, so there is no seating available but it is a very short walk from both Piazza Duomo and Piazza Garibaldi so you can sit at one of the benches there and watch the world go by. It is excellent. History is a casual spot and not somewhere to linger but it is cheap and delicious. I like coming here for breakfast, making like the locals and having a croissant filled with some sweet ricotta cannolo filling or Nutella for a sugar-charged start to the day. The gelato is good and there is even a small and highly coveted balcony over-looking the ocean too. They also offer a small but good cocktail list in a town where it can be hard to get a good one. Then move on to a cocktail. Made with white rum, lime juice, cinnamon syrup and pink grapefruit soda, it is delicious and refreshing. I discovered this drink here and it is so good I started making it at home. I had to leave early because I was being eaten alive. You have been warned. Jureka is the bar on the left with the fairy lights. They have a small but inventive list of house-created cocktails, all with a Mediterranean spin. They also do special nights where they team up with different bars to offer a curated guest list of different cocktails. The real draw here though, is the service. I spent several nights there and made friends with most of the staff and the owner, Jalel. They have a real passion for what they do and offer a truly attentive service. Special mention though must go to Manu. He spent several nights helping me practice my rusty Italian skills, patiently listening to me as I laboured through his language, responding in a slow but never patronising way. A really friendly guy, he took my number and I promised to take him to a cocktail bar if he visits London this winter. I hope he does. There you have it. After five visits here, I think I can say with some authority that these are amongst the very best places in this beautiful seaside town. There are more places to go, of course, but these are the best places to get you started. After that, go and discover your own favourites. Wander the curving, sloping alleyways and see for yourself why it is my happy place. I mentioned at the start of this article that when I come here, it feels like I am coming home. Maybe one day I will be lucky enough to call this place home, at least for a little while. The first round is on me. The mosaics at the Duomo. La Rocca A large rocky cliff overlooking the town, La Rocca is scalable and offers wonderful views of the town and the coast. Piazza Duomo overlooked by La Rocca. Lavatoio Medievale Fiume This medieval washhouse is reached by a small curving staircase and is easily missed. La Spiaggia The beach A lovely crescent shaped beach that is always popular with locals and tourists alike, albeit out of peak-tourist season, it is quieter during the week. A waitress prepares a table at Il Normanno. Fermento 2. Le Chat Noir A romantic spot, Le Chat Noir is a huge restaurant housed in a 16th-century building, with the few outside tables concealing the size of the restaurant inside. Thanks for reading, Terry.
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