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Venezuela to Bonaire Chaser 2. Finally a blog, we've been busy since arriving back in Venezuela! Having arrived back at Medregal Village haul out yard, we quickly prepared Chaser for launching. As usual one or two things had stopped working after such a long spell of laying idle, Chaser I'm talking about not me. En route we stopped a few nights in Cumana and a night in Mochima to visit a favourite restaurant. We received an email from our friends Jaco and Christelle aboard 'Songerie' they had left Dominican Republic heading for Cumana, so we decided to wait for them to arrive. It was good to see them again, it had been more than a year since our last encounter. Only by email had we been in touch and sometimes only briefly. We too were in Spain and UK much of the time and fortunately for Jaco we were able to order a new gearbox for them and get it shipped to Jamaica as theirs had failed. During sundowners us and Songerie made plans for the coming months. They needed to visit PLC to do some repairs and maintenance and we did too, so having cleared in to Venezuela and getting all our paper work correct we moved on. Mochima our first stop for a meal in our friends restaurant 'Puerto Viejo'. People say Mochima is dangerous, but, as usual, they have never been there. We anchor off the village, we've been there many times over the past 6 years, sometimes alone and sometimes in company of another boat. We are the only boats in the anchorage. We have never had any problems or seen any, or heard of any. So don't believe the anecdotal rumours spread by people like Frank Virgintino. One of our priority jobs was a new spray hood. We needed to buy 'Sunbrella' material. It's expensive and long lasting. Making this spray hood is not something you want to do often. It has lasted nearly ten years, so it's done well. I won't go into details, but Yvonne made this in 3 days, and it's better than the original. Also our radar had stopped working, I went up the mast to investigate and found the cable had been 'eaten' through at the point where it came through the mast. Two of the wires were broken. I managed to cut back the wires and extend, solder them and all worked fine after. We think it was a woodpecker that did the deed, trying to enlarge the hole in the aluminium mast to make a nest. Jaco also welded on a reinforcement bar to our davits, a lot of work while a boat is floating in the wind, but he did an excellent job. We also had to solve our fuel problem, which we found to be a blockage in the metal cap of our fuel filter, the only thing we hadn't changed or cleaned. Work completed we headed out to Isla Tortuga looking forward to some diving and spear fishing. Jaco left earlier than us and arrived first, only to be told 'very politely' by the Guardia Costa, that we couldn't stay. Apparently the island was having a big cleanup campaign and the military were using prisoners to do the work. The leeward side of the island is always clean, but the windward side collects any floating garbage. The work should have been completed by July but obviously the inmates strung it out, I suppose for obvious reasons. We were allowed to stay overnight but had to leave in the morning, so we headed off in good wind to Carenero on the mainland. Reaching over halfway and a good sail the wind died, and later of course became noserly! But we arrived in the anchorage in time to watch the parrots and the red ibis coming home to roost, while we take a sundowner or two. We had a meal the following night in the restaurant of Bahia Las Pirates, and ordered 4 rum and cokes, we actually received 1 small bottle of coke and 4 glasses full of rum and ice. Our plan now was to make our way slowly to Bonaire, we headed for the western end of Los Roques 'Cayo de Agua'. It was beautiful, we stayed a few days before moving on to Las Aves Barlovento, 30 miles to the west and the following week onto Las Aves Sotovento another 16 miles. These islands are amazing, the water is crystal clear, the coral and reefs full of fish, conch and some lobsters too. Spear fishing is Jacos passion and I joined him with my gun too. Las Aves islands are what the rest of the Caribbean used to be like 50 or more years ago. Deserted Islands, white sandy beaches, a few palm trees and lots of fish. During our three weeks we never touched any meat stores, we caught or shot Snappers, Grouper, we free dived for Lobster using a snare and we collected a few Conch. Sometimes we took the fish to the beach for one of the very special 'Songerie' barbeques. Or we'd barbecue on board with some hickory wood chips which give a beautiful flavour. Jaco also has his Smoking Bin BBQ with this he cut up strips of fish and slow smoked them, it keeps for days, a great lunchtime snack or an accompaniment for a sundowner. Conch is a different story, it can be nice but you have to cook it correctly, something we haven't quite mastered which then gives it a delicate flavour with the consistency of a Dunlop 4x4 treadmaster. Yvonne and I had to be in Bonaire by around the 20th September, the weather was good for the next few days but later in the week was becoming a little unfavourable, Bonaire's southern tip can get a bit lumpy, so we decided on our leaving date. The day before leaving we decided to have one last beach Barbeque. The approach to the beach by dinghy was a little tricky because of some very shallow coral heads. During the afternoon when the light was good we check a route in and put down a marker buoy so we could navigate through a safe channel after dark. The theory was good but after a few rums, a drop of wine and a glass of bubbly to celebrate Jaco and Christelles 18th anniversary it wasn't so easy. Or, maybe it was, we were back on Chaser, that's where we woke up in the morning, the dinghy was with us and so was our marker buoy, but we don't remember too much about the trip back, unusual for us! They arrived in our anchorage that afternoon so we invited them to join us. They were only staying the one night then heading east to Los Roques. Chaser headed west the following morning, slightly hung over, for Bonaire, leaving 'Songerie' sadly alone. They couldn't come to Bonaire because they needed a visa which is expensive and impossible to get locally. I don't think they would like it too much because of the restriction of fishing and anchoring, also the noise. Having been in deserted places for a time, a car horn or motorbike becomes really intrusive. Our plan was to meet Susie and Evie in Curacao, spend a few days there then head back against wind and current to Bonaire. If the weather window is good it's not a problem but we do want them to see Bonaire because the waters, diving and fish are lovely. So we decided, having got here early, to stay and fly them in to Bonaire. We can collect them from the airport in the dinghy and come straight back to Chaser. We then thought after 10 days or so, we'd sail downwind to Curacao and spend time there. We would anchor free of charge in Spanish Water, but the water is not good for swimming and the town is a bit city like. So, maybe we shall head back east to Las Aves, if the weather is good, if not sail south to the Venezuelan coast. We shall see, Susie and Evie arrive tomorrow. These pictures were sent with Picasa, from Google. Jun Sat 29 Jun We are still around. Cock and Ball story or what!
We've been busy since arriving back in Venezuela! Having arrived back at Medregal Village haul out yard, we quickly prepared Chaser for launching.
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Bonaire to Puerto La Cruz. Chaser 2. We had hoped to stay longer in Las Aves but our plan was to sail to Bonaire, stay for a few days and then on to Curacao to meet Susie and Evie. The weather forecast was good but wind was building the following days so we decided to say our goodbyes and leave the following day. As it turned out we could have waited longer because once in Bonaire we decided to fly our daughter into Bonaire instead of us sailing to Curacao and then sailing back to Bonaire. Sailing east from Curacao can be uncomfortable at best especially with a 4 year old. This of course meant we were in Bonaire much longer than we anticipated. For those who haven't been to Bonaire, anchoring, spear fishing, collecting of shells, corals, or anything under the water is forbidden, and with so many good meal size snappers can be a little frustrating, didn't see any lobsters or conch though. The authorities have provided about 40 mooring buoys, 20 on the inside, 20 outside. The water is metres deep and those on the outside moorings leaves ones stern over the drop off. Unless the wind turns westerly in which case those on the inside buoys are too close to shore. Some of the buoys are in my opinion too close to each other and in slack winds and slack water the boats could drift around and touch. Having spent so much time in Venezuela and the islands where you can be totally alone and peaceful, here you are close to the road with car hooters and motorbikes making as much noise as they possibly can. After a while though you become accustomed to it. Moored in an 'aquarium' makes up for that, nowhere in the Caribbean that we have visited apart from Venezuelan Islands and some of the mainland have we seen such beautiful waters. Susie and Evie arrived in a tiny plane which they thought was great. We were able to take our dinghy to a nearby dock, walk across the road to the airport to collect them, then dinghy back to 'Chaser'. Evie is a fish, you cannot keep her out of the water. The following day she was off the back of the boat with her mask, fins and snorkel feeding the angel fish, it was so good to watch, 4 years old and despite wearing a small neoprene lifejacket she could still dive down a couple of meters before popping back to the surface. Although we are with her and she can swim without the extra buoyancy we prefer she has it in case the current picks up as it did for one young lady skinny dipping early morning and ended up at a neighbours boat having to ask for a lift back. Bonaire is a charming island if you are interested in water based activities. If you are not I'm sure it could be a boring holiday, because there is little else to do. We however enjoy all things wet and what better place to do it. The diving is superb, snorkelling too, Susie,using Yvonnes gear, took to it very easily diving to 30 meters at one stage. We also have a small inflatable sailboat that we could take Evie on or without the sail rig we can tow behind the dinghy. One of the other boats in the mooring field 'Biami' had their young daughter Darian living aboard who loves to meet other young children. Although Darian was 7 she and Evie became good friends and they either played on 'Chaser' while mum and dad went diving or they played on Biami while we 'rested'. Evie was a bit upset when they left for Panama. The donkey sanctuary is a place not to miss in Bonaire, donkeys have been on Bonaire since the abolishment of slavery, but come machinery donkeys too became redundant and left to roam. They breed of course and hundreds of donkeys roam the suburbs and occasionally wander into the path of a vehicle and end up dead or with broken bones also leaving young babies. The donkey sanctuary takes care of these animals in what is now quite a large park area, it's a good visit for young and old. You do need a car to get there, a taxi is possible but renting a car is favourite, which is what we did. After the Donkey sanctuary we drove to the east of the island to visit Jibe City hangout bar an excellent windsurfing ground for experts and beginners. You can rent boards with very small sails for youngsters to learn, if they fall off they can stand up in the shallow waters behind the reef. The Washington Slagbaii park is promoted everywhere but to us it was a little disappointing, the rugged coast interesting but nothing we haven't seen before, nevertheless a trip to do to get away from the water. After a couple of weeks we decided to leave Bonaire, our original plan was to sail to Curacao do some sightseeing shopping etc and Susie and Evie could fly back from there to Caracas, their flight was booked, but an alternative was to go back to Las Aves or sail south to the Venezuelan coast and back to Puerto La Cruz to do some retail therapy. Upon reaching the southern tip of Bonaire we turned east, the forecast was kts, the waters here are always a little rougher because of the shallows, but our boat speed slowed to about 3 knots while motoring. A unanimous decision was to head south to Punta San Juan to anchor for the night. We sailed the 55miles on a beam reach, 8 knots SOG in good seas to arrive at 2. So now back in Venezuela our task was to sail along the coast to PLC, our next anchorage 60 miles distant being Ensa Cata or Bahia Cata as it is sometimes called. It's a lovely anchorage but we didn't arrive early enough to enjoy the swimming and corals, just a sundowner or two before our evening meal. Evie watched TV most of the way, while we sailed on a close reach. Up early the following day our destination was a marina where we could tie to the 'pavement' as our granddaughter calls it. This stretch we sailed and motor sailed as the wind came round a little too close but we had the current with us. We arrived at Marina Caraballeda, we drifted around waiting for someone to respond to our repeated calls on the radio. Finally somebody shouted and told us where to moor. Reversing slowly into position watching carefully a buoy with a lot of floating rope attached, we failed to see a submerged boat just under the surface until the last minute. Full ahead briefly but it didn't stop us. I put the engine in neutral for fear of damaging the prop, but our rudder hit the wreck and dropped into a kind of groove. Nobody came to help, I put on a mask to take a look, it appeared the rudder was about 2 or 3 inches into a grooved steel girder. The rudder being curved at the forward edge I hoped we may be able to power over it but no joy, the girls all went forward leaning over the pulpit which helped lift the stern just enough to power over. This wreck was in the centre of the channel, no marker buoys, nothing. Having got to our berth the harbour master finally came round and asked us to go to the office. He said nothing about the lack of communication, the wrecks, and there are more than one. I informed him of the situation and said I will be making a denuncia in case there was damage I had not seen and my insurers would then need to contact the Marina. I suggested the wreck should be removed but they said there was no money available for such things. Four water bottles painted red tied to some rocks would be a simple way to at least mark its position. Fortunately we have a strong boat, a Hunter 44 though a spade type rudder is always vulnerable, no damage was done. We stayed the night and the following night, I wanted to buy some diesel but the fuel station would not sell it because we had a foreign flag. I grabbed a taxi and he took me into town with two 65 litre jerrys, I paid 6 Bolivares for the fuel and for the cab. We had a good meal in the converted boat restaurant, probably one that had been sunk and lifted. The food was good but alcohol was not allowed to be sold, can you believe it? Like criminals we smuggled in some rum and ordered 4 cokes! The morning came, we departed at 0'crack and made our way to the next anchorage, Puerto Francis just north of Carenero. During the sail the Venezuelan Navy called us on Channel 16 to ask if all was ok, we responded positive and then they asked the usual questions and again like the coastguard in the islands told us to enjoy our sail and call if we encounter any problems. Our plan was to leave from Puerto Francis in the morning to return to Isla Tortuga, which was now open again. However having had 20kts of wind almost on the nose for most of the way, albeit in calmish seas with current with us, we decided in the morning to go round the corner and spend the day in Carenero. Evie then had a play in the swimming pools and playground while we relaxed and took a cold one or maybe two. In the evening we grabbed a takeaway meal in the restaurant and the four of us had our sundowner rum and coke while waiting, Evie without the rum of course, but she still asks for a rum and coke when she's in the bar Then next morning we headed for Isla Tortuga in a forecast of light south easterly winds. We managed to motor sail most of the way, still dragging our lures behind us. Upon arrival having settled at anchor, some fisherman came to our boat to see if we wanted to trade for some fish. Embarrassingly we had to say yes. But, at least we had some good Snapper which we smoked for our evening meal. The following day was a Saturday, weekends are when our peaceful anchorage becomes a playground for the 'great whites' the big motor boats from Carenero or Puerto La Cruz. We always anchor far out mainly because of the depth, we could have anchored closer but we new what was due to arrive. There was a banging at the stern, Yvonne got up to see what the noise was, she is the Captain and quickly called me. A big black Labrador was desperately trying to get up our boarding ladder, which of course was impossible but it was his attempts that woke us. I managed to grab his collar and get and arm under his bum to hoist him aboard. We were the last boat in the anchorage. If he hadn't made it to us he would have been lost, he was very tired, as we were by morning having to keep an eye on him not trying to look for his owners. But, he slept and come 6am I take the dinghy over to a small open boat anchored to the beach. The previous day I thought I'd seen it with two dogs aboard. The owners, a young couple were dosing in the bow, he heard me coming and looked up, I asked if he had lost a black dog, and he immediately jumped up and said 'Si SI', I said 'I have it', his wife burst into tears, they been looking around all night but they had no dinghy and it was too dark for them to lift their anchors and motor around the anchorage. So a happy ending for them. As the afternoon approached all the motor boats began heading back and our doggy friends past to say 'gracias' one more time. Then we had our island back to ourselves again. We played on the beach again the following day and I managed to catch a lobster and a fish for dinner. The following day we moved to the eastern end of Tortuga for an early departure to PLC, still dragging our lures I might add. We left at hrs in light winds sailing or motor sailing to PLC, midway, finally managed to catch a Mahi Mahi, not big, but more than enough for the four of us. In fact up and till then Evie was the only one to catch a fish on a rod, and, we cleaned it and she ate it. Once safely tied up in Marina TechMarine Oriente, we booked a new flight for our Sooze and Evie to fly back to Caracas then spent the last few days of their holiday shopping, going to the fair, and some more shopping. Long showers were the order of the day for Yvonne and I, having spent August, September and October on anchor, water was rationed to a slight extent, not that we were smelly, swimming two or three times a day took care of that, just a little salty! Yvonne and I now have Chaser to ourselves once again, we had a great time with Susie and Evie and we all enjoyed Bonaire, but now we have to put the boat back together, scrub and clean away the salt and sand encrusted cushions etc, until the next time. Try these links of Evie snorkelling, 4 years old. Jun Sat 29 Jun We are still around. Cock and Ball story or what!
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