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Route 36 is an illegal pop-up lounge bar located in La Paz, Bolivia where cocaine is served by the gram on a silver platter, along with the cocktail of your choice. It also seems to be somewhere literally everyone knows about, which leads you to suspect that, for it to remain open, there may be an element of corruption at play. Of course, while everyone knows of it, not everybody knows where it actually is. After provoking blank faces from three cabbies, we eventually found our man. He quoted us 15 bolivianos just over a buck and took us on our way. The only hiccup on our journey was the roadblock we had to circumvent. The day before our taxi ride, at the end of July, those demands were delivered by way of dynamite set off in the middle a busy road. This is the sort of climate in which La Paz has resided for the past few years; tourists indulging in artisanal local drug services, while protests rage every couple of months, from soldiers demanding better working conditions to the disabled campaigning for better welfare support. Arriving at the bar, we were almost manhandled through a four-foot opening in what looked like a garage door by the three young Bolivian men who were rather inconspicuously standing guard outside. It was delivered to us instantly. Route 36 changes location as soon as there are complaints from the locals. According to a few of the guys sat around the table, it had been here for several weeks. There were around 20 people in the bar. We were sat with eight English gap year kids, two Belgian professionals, and the Norwegian. Half a dozen Irish businessmen were sat on the opposite side of the bar, definitely the most wound up and coke-y of everyone in there, in addition to two bar-women, the hostess, the DJ who kept playing fucking terrible dubstep , and two security guards constantly pacing around. In the Andes, the leaf is considered a sacred commodity, and President Evo Morales is a staunch defender of its medicinal and nutritional qualities. And he makes a very valid point; its cultural importance for Andean people, who have chewed the leaf for thousands of years, is primarily to relieve altitude sickness, not facilitate four-hour house party conversations with your boss about how to improve workflow. Since legalizing coca cultivation after he was elected in , Morales has repeatedly insisted that coca is not cocaine, calling on the UN to remove it from its list of prohibited drugs. I had to excuse myself from pleasantries and introductions to rack up on the cut-out surfaces that the bar had provided. Unsurprisingly, I became chattier than usual as we all exchanged life stories and travel tips. This place was a far cry from their experience that day. The bar had a deal going, so Josephine and I pooled our cash with our two new friends to get four grams for the price of three. Suddenly a charismatic—but a little wet behind the ears—Swedish guy pitched up next to us and started passing lines around for everyone. I had to show him how to snort the coke. He was the kind of man who would get busted in a second anywhere besides the security of that box, and his entrance summed up the ease with which one can locate the place. By 5 AM I was pretty wired, chain smoking cigarettes and talking very much at people rather than with them. At around half 6, a woman in her fifties asked us if we wanted any weed, trying to avoid the gaze of the bar-staff. Photo by Zxc via. By Manisha Krishnan and Keegan Hamilton. By Drew Schwartz. By Nathaniel Janowitz. By Manisha Krishnan. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE.
Route 36 is an illegal pop-up lounge bar located in La Paz, Bolivia where cocaine is served by the gram on a silver platter, along with the cocktail of your.
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Coca has been cultivated in medium-altitude parts of the Bolivian Andes since at least the Inca era, \[ 1 \] primarily in the Yungas north and east of La Paz. Cultivation expanded substantially in the s into the Chapare region of Cochabamba and some production flowed into the international cocaine market. The US-backed efforts to criminalize and eradicate coca outside the Yungas as part of the War on Drugs as coca is used to make the stimulant, anaesthetic and illegal recreational drug cocaine were met by the cocalero movement's growing capacity to organize. Violence between drug police and the Bolivian armed forces on one side and the movement on the other occurred episodically between and The cocaleros became an increasingly important political force during this period, co-founding the Movement for Socialism — Political Instrument for the Sovereignty of the Peoples party. Coca growers from both the Yungas and the Chapare have advocated for policies of 'social control' over coca growing, maintaining a pre-set maximum area of cultivation as an alternative to drug war policies. In , cocalero union leader Evo Morales was elected president of Bolivia. Morales pursued a combined policy of legalizing coca production in the Chapare and Yungas and eradication of the crop elsewhere. In , Bolivia strategically withdrew from the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs , an international drug control treaty ratified by over countries, and rejoined the following year with an exception for traditional coca use. In the s, Bolivian farmers rushed to grow coca for the illicit market, as its price climbed and the economy collapsed. Soaring unemployment also contributed to the boom. Farmers turned to coca for its quick economic return, light weight, yield of four crops annually, and the abundance of United States dollars available in the trade, a reliable store of value in a hyperinflated economy. The Bolivian government estimated that coca production had expanded from 1. The number of growers expanded from 7, to at least 40, over the same period. Besides growers, the coca networks employed numerous Bolivians, including carriers zepeadores , manufacturers of coca paste and cocaine, security personnel, and a wide range of more nefarious positions. The unparalleled revenues made the risk worthwhile for many. Bolivia's most lucrative crop in the s was coca. The country was the second largest grower of coca in the world, supplying approximately 15 percent of the United States cocaine market in the late s. The production of cocaine has helped indirectly the stabilization of democracy in Bolivia by increasing incomes and standards of living, especially during crisis. It offered an alternative source of income for the military, reducing the likelihood of a military coup. Policies to eradicate have also contributed to the militarization of the nation. This framework was effectively modified by agreement between President Carlos Mesa and coca growers in , permitting current growers to maintain a cato 1, m 2 \[ 10 \] of coca per family. The Constituent Assembly of included an article on coca in the new Constitution, which was approved by referendum in It states:. The State shall protect native and ancestral coca as cultural patrimony, a renewable natural resource of Bolivia's biodiversity, and as a factor of social cohesion; in its natural state it is not a narcotic. Its revaluing, production, commercialization, and industrialization shall be regulated by law. The Evo Morales government is drafting a new law on coca, which is being circulated for feedback among coca growing communities as of December \[update\]. The law proposes expanding legal production to 20, hectares, 12, in the currently approved regions and 8, in the Chapare. In January , Bolivia withdrew from the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs over the indigenous use of the coca leaf. It soon re-applied to the treaty with a reservation allowing traditional use of coca; the re-accession came into force in February Blocking the reservation required objection by 61 countries, one-third of the, at the time, parties to the convention; 15 countries objected by the deadline. The UNODC said it would 'continue to work in Bolivia in accordance with its mandates to support the national system of drug control and the country's international cooperation in these matters. These efforts, however, put only a small dent in the coca industry and were highly controversial among thousands of peasants. The economics of eradication were particularly frustrating. As more coca was destroyed, the local price increased, making it more attractive to other growers. In coca growing became technically illegal outside a specially mandated 12, hectare area in the Yungas. Coffee and citrus fruits were offered as alternative crops to coca despite the fact that their return was a fraction of that of coca. Outside of accepted limits, the Morales government has continued coca eradication efforts. Its eradication effort set a new record: over the first eleven months, 10, hectares were eradicated. Contents move to sidebar hide. Article Talk. Read Edit View history. Tools Tools. Download as PDF Printable version. In other projects. A Bolivian woman selling coca Coca has been cultivated in medium-altitude parts of the Bolivian Andes since at least the Inca era, \[ 1 \] primarily in the Yungas north and east of La Paz. Consequences \[ edit \]. Economic \[ edit \]. Social \[ edit \]. Legal framework \[ edit \]. International drug control conventions \[ edit \]. Eradication efforts \[ edit \]. Timeline \[ edit \]. References \[ edit \]. ISBN Archived from the original on United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime. Retrieved June 18, Library of Congress , Washington, D. Retrieved January 22, Journal of Latin American Studies. ISSN X. S2CID Illegal drugs, economy and society in the Andes. Woodrow Wilson Center Press. Los Tiempos. Retrieved Europa Press. Latin American Perspectives. BBC Mundo. Democracy Now! ISBN X. Movimientos sociales en tiempos de poder: Articulaciones y campos de conflicto en el gobierno del MAS. Cochabamba: Centro Cuarto Intermedio. South America, Central America and the Caribbean See also \[ edit \]. Hidden categories: Articles with short description Short description is different from Wikidata Articles containing Spanish-language text Pages using Lang-xx templates Articles containing potentially dated statements from December All articles containing potentially dated statements.
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In Bolivia's lowland Chapare region, much of the population grows, dries, and sells coca leaf, and some directly process cocaine paste or.
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