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Meth, Money, Militias: Welcome to Iraq’s Hottest Narco Town

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This communal Shia mourning ritual was banned under Saddam Hussein. But these rave-like self-flagellation sessions, during which Shia Muslims hit their backs, chests, and heads in a trance-like state for several hours, are now a nightly occurrence in Basra. Those attending this Hussainiya are sober, but not all of Basra is this pious. For Ibrahim, the ritual is a way to escape the crushing reality of life in this sweltering, dangerous city — and to stay away from crystal meth, the other thing that used to help. Ibrahim was working on a construction site when his ordeal with meth began, a five-year journey during which he experienced for himself how the drug trade had swept through his hometown. Temperatures here in summer are unbearable, often going higher than 50 C F , making Basra one of the hottest cities on the planet. Days on building sites under the remorseless sun are exhausting. It used to be transported through Basra, as part of an illegal trade route from Iran, where it is manufactured for sale in Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and the Persian Gulf. Meth and other drugs are a new challenge for the Iraqi authorities, who have little experience dealing with narcotics. A new conflict is opening up between the Iraqi state and drug traffickers who have links to a large network of Iran-backed militias, who in turn are backed by powerful tribes busy fighting over territory and smuggling routes on the border areas with Iran. Basra city, founded in the seventh century, was a literary centre during the Islamic Golden Age — in The Arabian Nights , Basra is the town that Sinbad leaves to go on his epic journey. But its recent past is marred by the Iran-Iraq war and rebellions against former dictator Saddam Hussein. Iran-backed armed militias still maintain a heavy presence and influence in the city of nearly 2 million, and for the last 10 years they have turned the Shalamcheh border crossing with Iran into a narco trafficking hub. This stifling atmosphere has pushed some people into a cycle of drug addiction. Crystal meth is mostly used by young people trapped in poverty, and the surge in its use is pushing an already troubled city to its limits. This is causing trouble for people from all walks of life, even for Abbas, the owner of an electronics store. Users make pipes by unscrewing the head of a lightbulb and taping a straw to it. The city is ruled by coalitions of conservative Shia parties with links to armed groups, which in recent years have cracked down on bars, clubs and other un-Islamic activities, setting up night-time checkpoints to keep residents on their toes. Despite repeated claims by Iraqi officials that they have arrested over 20, people for using and dealing drugs in the past two years and seized hundreds of kilos of meth and millions of pills, there is no reliable estimate of the actual quantity of drugs flowing through the market. And locals doubt if the relatively newly formed branch of the Iraqi force has been effective in tackling drug gangs. At the end of the day, the armed groups have the last say. According to the Iraqi Interior Ministry, 5, people were arrested for drug-related crimes and hundreds of kilos of drugs were seized in the first quarter of this year alone. Meth is mainly dealt in the north-western edge of the city, in places like 5-Miles, a ghettoised neighbourhood named for its five-mile-long road that runs parallel to the train tracks and old canals. Here, even alcohol is now more expensive and harder to come by than meth. Customers place their orders with young men who sit in the stairways in front of open doors and then run upstairs to get the goods. Despite the alcohol prohibition, bored young people with nothing to do looking for a break from the long hot days call their alcohol dealers or head out to deliver black plastic bags filled with booze. Just metres from a police station, you can get chilled beers and locally made spirits for three times the average market price. Groups of people hang around near the water on weekends to avoid the heavy traffic and the constant sound of construction as the city prepares to host the 25th version of the Arabian Gulf Cup, a football tournament, in January next year. People sit next to piles of abandoned vessels, from huge transport ships to little wooden fishing boats, pulling beers out of plastic bags. He declined to give his name. People hang out here until midnight before being sent home by police, who track down motorbike riders and limit their movement around the poor neighbourhoods. We could rent a house, and we bought a gun. It might have been the effect of the drug. Otherwise, none of us was into playing little mafia games. The only rehab clinic in Basra opened two years ago in response to the rising number of users. Around 2, patients, all with addiction problems, have been treated here since the government-funded clinic opened, in Police stand behind the large metal door, which makes it look more like a jail than a rehab centre, even though those being treated here come willingly or are referred by their families and treated free of charge. The treatment methods for the 30 current patients are like something out of a Victorian-era asylum. Instead, they are processed at a gritty detention centre in Qibla neighbourhood. Many people spend up to six months of pre-trial detention here before a court makes a decision on their case. Every Saturday, hundreds of men and women line up under the shade outside the centre to get a pass to visit their sons and brothers for five minutes. Families bring favourite foods, fruit, and clothes for their loved ones inside. She is sitting on the pavement, clad in a black abaya, her sunburnt cheeks bulging from her tightly tied headscarf. They said he was a dealer, but the lawyer was a son of a bitch. When it comes to drugs, we have made it clear that anyone troubled with this poison will be renounced and will not get any support from their tribes. According to Mustafa Hassan and Munis Abdulrazzaq, two young lawyers running a practice a few blocks away from the Qibla detention centre, the use of force and torture is a go-to for local police officers when dealing with drug suspects. The officers tell the suspects lawyers are useless and co-operating with the police is the only way out. A dedicated Shia Muslim, Ibrahim is at a Hussainiya, the same one he attends every night at a local spot with dozens of his friends. He spent a year in jail and was roughed up by the experience when I saw him last. By Mitchell Prothero. By Luis Chaparro. By Manisha Krishnan. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE. View this post on Instagram. Read Next.

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