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When we visit Poland's new National Stadium, a man is mowing the grass. For a patriotic Pole, surely there's no better job in the country. But like so much here, the National Stadium has history. When the opening whistle sounds for the first game in June there will be pride in Warsaw, but also relief. Three workers died during construction, and the massive project was hit by delays. But now organisers hope for a world-class atmosphere and perfect playing conditions under the retractable roof. The new stadium stands on top of the old one, built under communism and opened in Parts of the original have been saved including one stone with a mathematical formula for explaining the measurements of the athletic track. Close to the Wisla Vistula River, it stands on the east bank, the right bank of the river in the capital city. It's home to the famous Praga district, and it's more industrial, and less developed, than the west bank, home to commerce, politics and the university. Locals on the east side like to say they're more bohemian. The first game in Euro will pit Poland against Greece. With seats very close to the pitch, the passion from fans might well blow the socks off the players. It's quite a symbol of modern Europe that Poland - still with its own currency - is playing Greece, which is at the heart of so many crisis meetings for the euro. We head over the river to the university on the west bank, to meet Dr Slawomir Jozefowicz. He graduated in just as European history once again centred on Poland. The next year, was the time of major changes. You tend to say that was when the Berlin Wall fell, but we tend to say it was the year of roundtable talks a couple of months earlier that changed everything. He is kind enough to let us disrupt one of his politics classes and around 20 students agreed to answer questions in English. Do you want the euro? I ask one student. Some small remnants of the old communist stadium remain in the new venue. I love a Polish value to things, and I think that Polish people should pay with polish currency. The problems are because the banks lent too much money to people of your generation,' she says, looking at me. There is also a lot of excitement at the upcoming Euro championship. Does he feel you can be a proud Polish student and a good European at these difficult times? We head back to the Vistula. It flows just about the entire length of Poland from the south of the country, up through Warsaw in the middle and on to Gdansk on the Baltic coast. It's around 1,km miles and we take a history lesson on the banks. Seven years ago, Przemek Pasek gave up his job as a photographer to devote his life to the river. While his two dogs scamper along the east bank woods, he tells me why the river is so important to Poles. I look around at the dark waters, which for years were subjected to industrial pollution. This year, the city's first water treatment plant will open up. Further south in the countryside, there's a bounty of flowers, plants and birds. We hope to see this section cleaned up and bring people back en masse to the river. Just like the team at the new stadium, Mr Przemek has great pride in his own emblem of Poland. It's not the national side heading out to play football, it's not the new buildings rising from the roots of the old, it's the mighty river defining the geography of Poland, and which has come to define his life too. By Paddy O'Connell. Industrial and bohemian. A cleaner Vistula.

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