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Saalbach and Zell am See-Kaprun: two of west Austria's best ski resorts
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The main reason for choosing Kaprun was the guaranteed snow cover Kaprun is a glacier resort, which is open all year round and the proximity of the village to the larger town of Zell Am See, which also has an extensive ski area. I finally meet up with my traveling companions at about pm in the bar of an Italian restaurant in Birmingham unusual, I know. I was mildly horrified to discover the others were going to be skiing all week and made it my No. We successfully managed to get my sister on and off the plane with the help of a few valium. The flight from Birmingham to Salzburg was a ridiculous hour and a half long beats the 9 hour flight to Calgary , and by a stroke of luck our hotel was the very first stop on the 1 hour 45 minute coach transfer. Consequently we arrived in Kaprun in time for our lunch. The village itself was fairly large, with lots of restaurants and bars as well as the usual collection of continental-looking hotels and houses. Initial impressions of the hotel were favorable, the rooms were a good size and all had en-suite bathrooms. The hotel bar was fairly small but had plenty of room for the 30 odd guests. There was also a TV, video and assorted board games, which made for a welcome distraction before dinner. The other people in the hotel turned out to be a great crowd and as the week went on we got to know everyone really well. As well as free wine and beer, we were supplied with breakfast the usual continental croissants and coffee — I did start to miss those Canadian fried breakfasts , a packed lunch which I never ate, instead going for sausage and chips on the mountain every day , and dinner always really good food and plenty enough of it. Apart from convenience, the main reason we chose an all-inclusive package was the cost. The manageress of the hotel, Hayley, spotted that I had my own board and enquired 'Was I any good? I was introduced to Lee, who showed me their plan of attack for the following day on a picture of the glacier. About halfway through that slightly drunken conversation, he uttered the magic words: 'The whole glacier is like a massive powder bowl, and you can basically just go wherever you want. We walked to the bus stop m and caught the bus to the lift station at the base of the glacier. Thankfully, this was all on relatively flat roads and the 6km trip only took about 15 minutes. First we had to take a gondola to the very bottom of the glacier, and then hop on a 4-man chair to get to the mid station. Click on map to open a full-size version in a new browser window image courtesy Gletscherbahnen Kaprun AG. The lift system was quite efficient once you were actually on the mountain, comprising of 1 cable car, 4 chair lifts some faster than others and 5 drag lifts 3 of which were double lifts. The design of the lift system was more reminiscent of those found in American and Canadian resorts, which usually comprise of 9 or 10 high capacity chair lifts servicing a large number of runs from each. This is in direct contrast to most European resorts, especially the older, more traditional ones, which will have up to lifts in the case of a large area, most of which will only serve one or two runs each. There was about a foot of fresh snow all over the glacier at the top. Apparently it was all tracked out the previous day, but the overnight winds had filled it all in. We spent the rest of the day cramming in as many powder runs as possible. The highlight of the day occurred on the very first run from the top station m. Due to the distinct lack of trees and wacky arrangement of chutes and slopes, it feels like you are riding on the moon, especially if you venture off-piste. There are 3 main ski areas covered by the Europa Sport Ski lift pass: the glacier at Kaprun, the smaller Maiskogelalmbahn area, and the larger area at Zell am See. Transportation between the 3 locations is by a free ski-bus. My lust for powder satisfied, I returned to the hotel for more free beer, followed by a night out in Zell am See. Much bigger than Kaprun, it has a lot of bars and clubs, most of which we seemed to visit. It does have its own ski hill, but due to the warm weather the only place worth riding was the glacier. A fine night was had by all, especially Mark and his newly found 'lady' friend. Morning: Hangover. I failed to meet up with Jake et al. This was home to a few bars and a couple of reasonably priced restaurants, as well as the usual collection of ski shops. I met up with everyone at lunch, and spent the rest of the day searching out the rest of the powder remaining from the previous day. During the afternoon, we spotted a nice looking powder run requiring a short hike at the side of the resort area. Due to my rather delicate state, however, we decided to tackle it the next day. The first two days of the week were incredibly warm and sunny, with the temperature rising above zero Celsius in the afternoons. Consequently, by the end of the second day we were all sunburnt. That night we went to a local bowling alley not at all like pin bowling and returned to the hotel for a few more free beers to formulate our plan of attack for the next day. By the next day, the queues were getting bloody ridiculous, and it was taking a good hour and a half to get from our hotel to the mid station. Still, what can you do? It was apparently a local holiday week. After lunch we decided to ride the run we had spotted the day before. Nial, Jake and I set off, riding a drag lift as close as possible to the point where we would have to start hiking. I strapped my board to my rucksack and we were off. OK, so these folks are on two planks … but you get the picture! The start of the hike held shallow snow, occasionally interrupted by bands of exposed rock. We made reasonable time, although Jake was obviously fitter than Nial and I were. The top of the climb rewarded nice thigh-deep snow, preferable to the icy rocks lower down. After a rest at the top, we set about planning our descent route. The run was incredibly fast………. I was going so fast that I only got about 6 turns in before we were at the bottom, where we all lay in the snow chuckling to ourselves before the short hike out to the nearest piste. The night before had seen me running up and down the nursery slope in the village a bit of a hopeful description really, it was more like a flat field covered in slush , trying to teach them the basics. Now, I figured that it was time to let them loose on a proper slope. By the end of the day they were both making decent linked turns, and Mark even took his skis back to the shop. The bad weather had really taken hold over the next two days, and the lifts were shut down all over the glacier. We considered going to Zell to ride all the black runs, but other people we spoke with advised that it was very slushy and very busy, so we decided not to bother. Our snow sliding days over for the year, we decided to go on a 2-day partying binge to round off the season. We spent most of the night playing a bizarre pub game that involved bashing nails into a block of wood with a hammer. Awaking to a massive and I do mean massive hangover, the flight home was thankfully not too bumpy. All that was left now was to sit around my flat, staring longingly at my board … and waiting for winter. You must be logged in to post a comment. Leave a Reply Cancel reply You must be logged in to post a comment. The ski and snowboard world at your keyboard.
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