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Become a Champagne Specialist in Los Angeles! In Episode 20, we sit down with Michael Karam, the author of Wines of Lebanon and contributor to the new wine documentary Wine and War. In this episode, Christian Oggenfuss sits with Michael Karam, the author of Wines of Lebanon and contributor to the new wine documentary Wine and War , about the rich and often war-torn history of Lebanese wines. This is their story. My main work centers around marketing and wine communication and positioning of brands. And I consult for a few Lebanese wine producers, helping them primarily gain access to key international markets. Before that, I was a journalist and I lived in Lebanon from to , covering everything that happens in the country and at the time in Syria as well. So it all neatly, if you want, channeled my whole professional life from about , neatly channeled into working with the Lebanese wine producers. So tell me were you born in Lebanon? Were you born in the UK? What is your nationality? I was born in And so by the time I was 10, had there been any move to bring me to Lebanon to go to school there, that was quickly shelved because of the civil war. So I grew up in England, and I spent my first 26 years there. Although I did visit Lebanon a lot before the war, so I kind of had an idea of what the country was like, and I did have the privilege of seeing it during the so-called golden age. How did that come about that you get involved in wine journalism? Is that also when you started to explore journalism? It was a time when western, Westerners in general, were not going there because the kidnapping threat. So I found myself, if you want, able to get writing jobs, whereas if I had arrived in Beirut, I think five years later, the market would have been flooded. So I think timing is everything. It sounds like it was a very dangerous period for Westerners, as you mentioned, what was the impetus for going to Lebanon? I was meant to go for six months and I stayed for 23 years. And I think I must have come across as quite embarrassing to my cousins who I reacquainted myself with. And looking back, I was this rather gauche foreigner turning up in Beirut at the end of a 15 year civil war. I then moved into journalism, and in the late 90s, I found myself as a business reporter, if you want, and I was covering various sectors within the Lebanese economy, and I was hired to be the editor, in , of Executive. Executive is a monthly business magazine, and in my first month there, I thought I should set a good example, and I should write the cover story. It was suggest that I do a feature on the Lebanese wine industry. And I did, and I found it fascinating. The experts on Bordeaux, Burgundy, California, the Loire. And on the basis of that chapter, all journalists want to write a book, I thought I should write a book about Lebanese wine. And I got a publishing contract on the back of that chapter, and it was quite extraordinary, it all happened very quickly. And within two years that book won a prize, so suddenly there I was, I was writing about Lebanese wine. I was a wine writer. It has… I think most listeners, this would be new information to them, the rich history that Lebanon possesses in the world of wine. Can you tell us a little bit about… Take us a little bit through the timeline of Lebanese wine history. And he had written a book called Uncorking the Past, and he and I exchanged emails while I was writing Wines of Lebanon, and he was telling me that Lebanon is virtually the epicenter of the origins of wine. Georgia was where wine was first made, but the Lebanese… The culture of the vine drifted down to the Levantine coast quite quickly, and if the Phoenicians were not the first people to make wine, they were definitely the first people to bottle it and sell it. They were the first wine merchants. And in doing so, they… In trading wine, which they did along with glass and oil, the famous Murex purple dye, they gave the gift of wine to the then known world. So Lebanon has got a really stellar CV in its ancient wine production, and the impact, if you want, that what is now Lebanon had in spreading the idea of wine to the then known world. If you go to the Beqaa now, you will see the massive and magnificent temple of Bacchus that is still there. What is that attributed to? From such an early start and rich history to that hibernation, what was the impetus for that? Is that correct? That kind of restarted this culture of producing wine. The majority of them were French, there were few Dutchmen and Germans there. And they quite literally went over the Lebanese mountain range to Beirut, got on a boat, sailed to Algeria, which was the biggest wine hub outside… A French wine hub outside France, and they bought great varieties that they felt would thrive in the Beqaa and they were the Grenache, Sance and Carignan. Got back on the boat, sailed to Beirut and started planting these vines in the Beqaa. And this is what I call the first accident of history in the development of the Lebanese wine industry, because they literally laid the foundations of the modern Lebanese wine industry by planting these French varieties in the Beqaa. Can you talk a little bit about all the hurdles that the wine industry has had to overcome in their pursuit to make wine? This is a country that had suffered a lot during the Ottoman times, and during the First World War, there had been famine, and it was only with the arrival of the French in and the creation of Lebanon as an entity in , that the wine industry experienced its second accidental history, if you want, because the French arrived with 50, civil servants and soldiers and they demanded wine every day. So again, the Lebanese began to make wine to sell to their new French overlords. It embraced francophone culture. This was a… From to , Lebanon experienced, if you want, a golden age, it was when the country was really finding its feet. Yes, there was the Second World War, but by and large, Lebanon was spared that. We get to and the country descends into civil way. And the party, if you want, ended. And the Lebanese wine industry, which was probably made up of about six producers, really found itself taking a blow. And they were discovered in England at the Bristol Wine Fair in He was a war hero. The owners of Chateau Ksara were regularly kidnapped and threatened with mock executions. And on a day-to-day basis over a period of 15 years, Lebanese wine makers faced danger and constant instability, and yet they never really missed a harvest. It was just released this fall. Tell me a little bit about how that documentary came to be. Can we come and interview you? Yeah, house in the mountains, okay. I can do that. And then I think by , we settled on a formula that it would be still a film about Lebanon, and its wine makers, and their struggle to make wine. And then through that, it would be in fact a homage to the Lebanese entrepreneur who has struggled through centuries to make ends meet, and to trade, and to do business in times of conflict and political instability, but with Serge as the main star, because we all recognize that throughout the world, even though Lebanese wine has progressed so much in the consciousness of consumers, Chateau Musar is still way out there as the most famous Lebanese wine, and he was its foremost champion. That entrepreneurial spirit that just drives them to… Even in the face of adversity, to continue forward. What is at the heart of that? Most people, when faced with that much war, that much adversity, would consider a different profession. How are the Lebanese different in that regard? I was on a beach just outside Sidon in , with a group of Lebanese archaeologists who had just found the first commercial Phoenician wine press. They are traders. They will calculate on the back of an envelope whether a business will succeed or not. And they still do this, to this day. Even today, I will guarantee that there are people who left Beirut and are having to seek opportunities abroad because of that tragic explosion on the 4th of August. They are can do people, they are the crisis management experts, par excellence. I think it must be growing up in England. Be it a power cut, be it war, anything. They will find a way to get around it. And, again, a long-winded answer to your question. I think that this is what has helped the Lebanese wine industry since the midth century. They just get on with it and they will not let anything phase them. How have the wine makers been able to exploit the international market for Lebanese wines? They will come afterwards. And so, the challenge was to get them to work as a team and to launch a generic campaign, which we finally did in the UK in How big of a role do you think he played in helping establish, re-establish Lebanese wine trade? He was philosophical, he went into wine for a start. Actually, if you remember in the film, he said he wanted to become a priest. So I think he had this kind of zen-like software in him from the beginning. But he immediately understood what the world wanted from a wine. He understood that the world wanted a story, he understood that the world wanted a front man, a front of house man who could tell that story and who was charismatic. And I think he understood that to really succeed, the world wanted a wine that was a little bit controversial as well. But I think those people who taste them and like them, are immediately lifelong converts, and I think that making an esoteric and enigmatic wine from an esoteric and enigmatic part of the world was a wonderful formula. And so, I think all that wrapped up was the magic of Serge. Lebanon, continues to face, what seems to be body blow after body blow. What does the future hold for this country and for the wine trade? If I could take your listeners back to just over a year ago, I think October 10, , there was a popular revolution in Lebanon, which precipitated a financial crisis and horrific inflation. So between October and February, October and February , the strategy, and I was working with a lot of Lebanese wine producers on this, was that exports had to be the priority just to generate the hard currency that they could use to buy the raw materials, to buy bottles, corks, capsules, labels, all the wine-making materials that they need on an annual basis. And then the pandemic hit. And then, just to add to it, there was this terrible, traumatic, tragic explosion on August 4th, which ripped through East Beirut, part of the city in which I lived for 23 years. So this is where we are today. Take us maybe on a little bit of a year timeline as to how has the industry evolved and where do you see it going from a winemaking perspective? When the civil war ended, Lebanon had a civil… Maybe your listeners are not as clued up on this as I perhaps assume they are. Lebanon experienced a civil war between and , during which time, by and large, the wine industry was on hold. What have we got? So they started pulling up a lot of their Cinsault and the Grenache and the Carignan, and the Mourvedre, and the Ugni Blanc with white grapes. And they shipped in Cavas, Merlot, Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and they bought the best French oak barrels that money could buy. Because this is what they thought the world really wanted from Lebanon. We have to focus on quality. And I was considered a bit of a nut for even entertaining the idea that the industry should be driven by these grapes. It was fine. Lebanese wine did begin to evolve and catch the attention of the international wine world. Chateau Kefraya made a wine called the Comte de M, and it was the first wine other than Musar that was noticed by Robert Parker, and then people began to realize that they were… There was another style of Lebanese wine, a more squeaky clean style that most consumers would probably understand. Because Lebanon was always seen as red wine country, big, powerful reds. Yeah, they make a few bottles of white wine, but it was more as an afterthought. They were something quite special and they were diverse. Ours, a bit thin, a bit… You know, whatever. And then suddenly, now everyone wants Obaideh wines and Merwah wines because everyone wants authenticity. And this was a trick that Serge Hochar recognised 30 years ago, 40 years ago. To this day, his chateau is still , Merwah-Obaideh. And I think that is the most important thing in the development of Lebanese wine in the last 30 years. And he has done the first skin-contact Obaideh and that is amazing. Can you tell us a little bit about that book? That would be unfair. I edited it. It is a history of wine-making in the Arab world. But once all that is taken care of, I would love to see the similar growth there in wine that Lebanon experienced after the civil war in And within 15 years, have demonstrated that the terroir in that region is amazing and can compete with anything that Lebanon can do, and they kept on producing… And have kept on producing wine during the civil war. The whites, in particular, are staggering. They have the most amazing ability to age and develop, and I think Syria or that part of Syria can really contribute a very valuable dimension to the reputation of wines from the Levant. For my final question, maybe you can share with our listeners, what is your hope that they take away from this interview and from watching the documentary, Wine and War? What is the central message you hope that listeners and viewers of the documentary will walk away with? But from a bigger picture perspective, I would just love it if your listeners today were presented with a different view of a country that has been unfairly portrayed in the media over the last 50 years. I know that the US had a tragic experience in Lebanon in the s and that scar is still there and the memory of that is still there. All I want to say is Lebanon is more than an unstable country punctuated by periods of instability and bad guys with beards and guns. We make wine and we make fabulous food as well, by the way. And also, if you can find it, try our national drink, arak. We live in Europe. We live in Australia. We live in Canada. We live in South America. We just love having your book on our table. We have history and civilization and I think the wine, while being in and of itself very good, conveys a more important message to the world. Michael, thank you so much for joining us today and we look forward to continuing to follow the journey of Lebanese wines and the Lebanese people. I appreciate your very insightful storytelling in this region of the world. Thank you. He is also one of only 64 Bourgogne Wine Ambassadors in the world. Clement, and V. Sattui Winery. Christian is a born entrepreneur and has successfully launched wine-related businesses in Switzerland and traveled extensively to all major wine regions in Europe and North America. Back to Podcasts. Subscribe to our Newsletter Enhance your journey in the world of wine, spirits, and beer! Get in touch
Episode 20 - Wine and War - The Story of Lebanon
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Lara Salameh was supposed to be flying out of Beirut Thursday en route to Montreal with her husband and two daughters, but the night before, their flight was cancelled. She said Air France told her service out of the Lebanese capital was suspended because of the unstable security situation — one that Ottawa has been warning Canadians about as fears of war between Israel and Hezbollah grow. Salameh is one of the 21, Canadians registered as being in Lebanon, a country the Canadian government is urging its citizens to leave. Canada has been planning since October for a possible evacuation of its citizens and sent military personnel to Lebanon and Cyprus in preparation. Salameh hopes that her rescheduled flight on Aug. Travelling to her native country is more than a vacation, she said in an interview Thursday from Beirut. It is a chance for her children to spend time with their elderly grandparents, some of whom are ill. The fear that her young daughters might witness violence does cause some concern, she said, but so far she has not personally seen any sign of conflict. If the situation does sour, she said, she can take refuge with family who live in the northern part of the country. The Canadian government noted that some airlines have already suspended service to Beirut. Israel alleges the commander was behind a weekend rocket attack that killed 12 young people in the Israeli-controlled Golan Heights, but Hezbollah has denied the charge. Stephani Moukhaiber was born in Lebanon and returned there from Montreal last year after being laid off from her job. She said Thursday she has no intention of fleeing Lebanon, even as tensions rise. Moukhaiber is a Canadian citizen, and she has been receiving regular messages from the Canadian government warning her to leave while flights are still available. I did have a moment of insecurity where I was like, 'Yeah, maybe I should go back,'' she said in a phone interview. But she said the atmosphere where she lives in the mountains outside Beirut is calm, in part because locals have lived through many conflicts in recent decades, including a war between Israel and Hezbollah. And Moukhaiber, who traces some of her roots to the Palestinian territories, cannot forgive Canada for its stance in the Israel-Hamas war. She said she does not want to return to Canada because she feels the country is not doing enough to stop Gazans from being killed. Conservative candidate Don Stewart winning the closely-watched Toronto-St. Paul's federal byelection, and delivering a stunning upset to Justin Trudeau's candidate Leslie Church in the long-time Liberal riding, has sent political shockwaves through both parties. 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High cost of groceries, rent squeezing Canadians: poll High grocery and rental costs are squeezing lower-income Canadians even as inflation trends downward, a new survey suggests. Europe's secret season for travel starts now Summer might be the most popular season for tourism to Europe, but it hardly promises a calm, cool and collected experience. Saskatoon man develops new card game with a fun, morbid twist — it ends with a funeral A Saskatoon man is taking his love of card games to new depths — six feet under, to be exact. Husband-and-wife food bloggers show how two chefs can navigate the home kitchen and stay happy Husband-and-wife food bloggers and podcasters Sonja and Alex Overhiser have a new cookbook that uses a simple step to keep the kitchen a less heated place for two chefs: clear, alternating roles. Tua Tagovailoa could return Sunday for Dolphins after medical experts clear him to play Tua Tagovailoa does not want to be the face of traumatic brain injuries in the NFL, but he knows that's the reality confronting him after his latest concussion. Ken Griffey Sr. Thousands of hybrid vehicles recalled in Canada over risk of fire An increased risk of fire has prompted the recall of thousands of Honda hybrid vehicles in Canada. Canada vowed to clamp down on auto thefts. How is it doing? Local Spotlight. Haunted walk in Eganville, Ont. Donated Moncton home to be transformed into cancer resource hub A Moncton, N. Man tasered, arrested in Victoria, B. Student group wants flavoured vapes banned; businesses say they're being targeted A student advocacy group to prevent youth nicotine addiction says it wants the Alberta and federal governments to place a ban on all fruity and sweet vape juices. Fatal shooting at Homestead Drive home linked to organized crime: police Police now say a deadly shooting Friday evening in northeast Calgary is linked to organized crime. City of Ottawa hybrid workers required to be in the office 2 days a week As federal employees head into the office three days a week under the federal government's new hybrid work model, the City of Ottawa is only requiring its hybrid employees to be in the office a minimum of two days a week. Ottawa banning transport trucks from section of Main Street in village of Manotick Mayor Mark Sutcliffe says the City of Ottawa is taking a 'couple of important steps' to reduce heavy truck traffic in the village of Manotick, including banning transport trucks on a section of Manotick Main Street immediately. Plateau residents upset after city removes parking spots for trees Some people living in the Le Plateau-Mont-Royal are seeing red over a new landscaping project meant to bring more green to the neighbourhood. Edmonton man facing 13 charges in speeding crash that hurt 4 Two people needed to be pulled from a vehicle following a crash in northeast Edmonton Sunday evening. Edmonton tattoo artist contestant on new season of Ink Master reality series An Edmonton tattoo artist is competing for the top prize in the new season of Ink Master. New Brunswick election: Who won in these key ridings? Manitoba expert weighs in New data is revealing the good, the bad and the ugly of artificial intelligence in schools. Sentencing resumes for Sask. Voting week in Saskatchewan to begin Oct. Regina trampoline company trying to bounce their way to a world record A Regina-based manufacturing company is hoping to break the world record for the longest trampoline, and they're already well on their way. Cambridge man arrested after guns stolen A year-old Cambridge man was arrested on Monday after guns were stolen from a vehicle in Cambridge, according to Waterloo Regional Police. GPS technology the focus on Day 5 of second-degree murder trial of Erick Buhr Testimony continued Monday at the trial of Erick Buhr, who has pleaded not guilty to the second-degree murder of his grandmother, Viola Erb. Victims share impact of University of Waterloo stabbing spree at attacker's sentencing hearing Victims are sharing the lasting impact of the triple stabbing at the University of Waterloo. Northern Ontario. Northern Ont. First Nation protests after ancestral remains found during excavation An Indigenous group in northwestern Ontario shut down the highway for a couple of hours Monday morning in protest after ancestral remains were found at a construction site. Homeless Sudbury man worried he could freeze in a tent Sudbury's Matthew Klug who has been homeless for six months, says he was ordered by bylaw to tear down a structure he built beside his tent. Witness saw people in balaclavas arriving at bush party shooting 'They were wearing all black head to toe, they were wearing balaclavas…. Second life claimed following fatal Lambton county collision Lambton OPP have confirmed that a second person has died following a crash that took place last week. Charges laid after sexual assault on underage girl: London police Around 10 p. Driver loses control of car, plows across cornfield and crashes into house Police charged a motorist after a vehicle crashed into a home in Innisfil Monday afternoon. Expert predicts how long will this warm weather last It's a summer-like day in mid-October, with temperatures hitting 24C across Simcoe County, feeling more like 27C with the humidex. Running community mourns death of marathon runner The running community is mourning the death of a runner following the Detroit Free Press Marathon. Vancouver Island. No risk to public: Lethbridge police take part in training exercises on Tuesday Lethbridge police are advising the public of officer training on Tuesday that will happen in two different venues throughout the day. Hitmen wrap up homestand in impressive fashion, defeating Hurricanes Calgary scored three times in the first, and three times in the third as the Hitmen defeated the Lethbridge Hurricanes Saturday at the Saddledome. Final students to graduate from Lethbridge College to receive degrees this weekend The last students to graduate from Lethbridge College will make history this weekend as they cross the stage at fall convocation. Sault Ste. Sault rally hears from victims of violence Rallies by a group called Voices Against Violence took place across the country on Monday, including Sault Ste. Marie The owners of 73 vacant properties in the Sault have been fined for violations of the city's vacant properties bylaw, including 33 owned by a firm going through a high-profile insolvency process. Stay Connected.
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