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Finland is a rich country. What have they got? They got Nokia phones and plywood. Welcome to the Arctic Circle. The snow is of a different nature here. Each flake is perfectly formed and glitters when it catches the sun, or the beams of a headlight. It billows down from the sky like a little flying seed from a dandelion — the kind that you blow on when you make a wish. It falls right into place as if it knows where it is meant to go. The snowflakes come together to build little blankets of powdered sugar, layer upon layer, like the sediments of a lake bed. They do this all over the ground, on every tree, every rock, every rooftop, and every fence post. I marvel as they stick to my camera on their way down. How have I lived my whole life without a real winter? I suddenly feel deprived rather than thinking smugly that I had the superior end of the stick by avoiding winters while growing up in Southern California. Yet while looking at this, I can imagine a reality where I spend every winter in this snow globe world. But for those seeking something a little different, this is the place. Finnish Lapland is special because it feels so incredibly secluded, so profoundly quiet, and so calmingly peaceful. I feel it in the desolate desert , at the peak of a hiking trail that nobody else is on, and now, in the quietness of a frosty forest. Now I know, oh but it can! Where else do you get the stillness, the crispness of the air, the indescribable pinkness of the sun, and the kind of snowflake that crackles like Pop Rocks on your tongue when you lick it? Enjoying it is not complicated with the right outfit choice. In reality, the snowy surroundings are yours without much discomfort. The Arctic winter offers a beautiful stillness and an endless sunset as the sun rests just on the horizon for hours, never fully rising. Then after it all, when you come home to a cozy BnB with a reindeer steak waiting for you, you realize winter brings with it some special methods of enjoyment. Like a sauna followed by a dip in ice water, and a glass of champagne in a hot tub thereafter. Finland, thanks for showing me that winter is wonderful, too. You opened up my eyes to so many travel possibilities with just one trip. She's traveled solo to over 65 countries and has brought over women on her all-female adventure tours from Botswana to the Alaskan tundra. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Absolutely loving the increase in posts! All your talk of snow and skiing is making me seriously consider skiing in certain countries when I start travelling in August. Finland looks bloody beautiful.. I never realised Lapland was actually a place, and it really does look like a fairytale world! If not, the Alps are always divine and who knew Finland was such a great place too? So much snow! So much potential to ski! I thought Patagonia might have some too? Yay your Finland posts! Your winter posts are amazing, this is exactly how I feel about winter. I was surprised when all of the people I met in Lapland told me winter is their favorite season, and one guy who lives in Scotland now comes home specifically for winter! Glad you liked Finland! Plus, the possibility of northern lights is huge for me. These pictures are absolutely beautiful! Your photos look stunning here. Winter agrees with you! The scenery looks amazing. Finnish Lapland looks like an absolute winter wonderland and a wonderful place to be active. Finland never stops on impressing me. It seems like I have a new destination to travel. The places are much more exciting. Can you tell me more about driving on the road in the middle of winter? We are planning to go to the same area early January next year and are planning to rent a car. What will the road condition be like and will it be dark most of the time? I was there in January too. The sun came up around 10am and went down around 4pm. Not too bad. Thanks for the reply, Kristin! May I ask where is the scenic drive near Akaslompolo mentioned in your article? Can you please show me the location of the scenic drive near Akaslompolo? I cannot find it on google map. How long was the trail and how long did it tale to snowshoe there? I just read your post and fell in love! Peace Finland is a rich country. Snow angels in Finland I marvel as they stick to my camera on their way down. Worshiping the god of ice in the church of winter at the local snow village, made entirely of snow and ice Finnish Lapland is special because it feels so incredibly secluded, so profoundly quiet, and so calmingly peaceful. So warm and cozy Like a sauna followed by a dip in ice water, and a glass of champagne in a hot tub thereafter. The flights are surprisingly convenient, especially through Helsinki. Though there are busses and taxis, renting a car will give you ultimate freedom. Driving in that kind of weather is, shall we say, interesting but not impossible! Eat: Reindeer and salmon are the most common offering. Besides the food at Aurora Estate, the best food I had was at Pihvikeisari where everything is local and homemade. They just opened a few months ago, but the owners are two young entrepreneurial women with an absolutely beautiful location and very cozy BnB, plus the food is incredible. Do: Check out my post on Awesome things to do in Finland! Pack: Check out my ski trip packing list. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Comments Absolutely loving the increase in posts! So much beauty there. Can you share what type of jacket did you wear that kept you warm in Finland in January? Yay glad you connected with what I wrote!
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Registration's totally free, of course, and makes snowHeads easier to use and to understand, gives better searching, filtering etc. When you register, you get our free weekly -ish snow report by email. It's rather good and not made up by tourist offices or people that love the tourist office and want to marry it either We don't share your email address with anyone and we never send out any of those cheesy 'message from our partners' emails either. Anyway, snowHeads really is MUCH better when you're logged in - not least because you get to post your own messages complaining about things that annoy you like perhaps this banner which, incidentally, disappears when you log in Username:- Password:. Or: Register to be a proper snow-head, all official-like! Prev topic :: Next topic. Poster: A snowHead. First time attempting to write a live trip report. We are currently on the night train from Helsinki to Kolari. Loaded the car at pm, had a beer in Pasila train station and boarded the train at pm. Had a few beers and food on the train and will soon be heading to bed. Arrive in Kolari at tomorrow morning so time for a lie in and breakfast. Will be working remotely and skiing for a week and a half. Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person. Nice one. Keep it coming. Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? What's the cabin like? I've only ever travelled in the cheap beds, not had the luxury of a private compartment. You need to Login to know who's really who. Nice to have something a little different. Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. Very cool Looking forward to this one. You'll need to Register first of course. Also looking forward to this - report back how the working remotely goes, have my eye on Lapland for this purpose at some point! Then you can post your own questions or snow reports They sleep 2 people in bunk beds which are made up for you with proper duvets and sheets. There are reading lights, power sockets and a little net thing at the top of the beds. In the downstairs cabins there is a small sink unit whereas the upstairs ones have their own toilet and shower. I always sleep really well on the train. The trains are super popular though so you need to book well in advance. The train is cheaper than flying from Helsinki to Lapland and in my opinion a much more pleasant experience. Last night the train was long - 10 double decker car carrier carriages, 4 double deckers sleeper carriages, 5 single decker sleeper carriages and the famous restaurant car. After all it is free. ElzP , I've worked remotely a few times from up here before and it has gone ok. The 4G is really good up here given how remote it is. You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. The train arrived in Kolari on time and we waited in the station building for a bit while they do the shunting around of the train so that you can get the cars off. Roads were very white as expected but also very quiet. Arrived around midday and went to the destination Lapland office in the centre of the village to see if the cottage we had rented was ready yet. We were in luck so got the keys. As always the process with Destination Lapland was very smooth and easy and they were very friendly in the office today would recommend booking accommodation through them. The cottage is good - just as advertised. After arriving we then went to Jounin Kauppa Jouni's shop which is the big supermarket to do a big shop. We'd brought quite a lot of drier stuff with us but fresh stuff and beer just freezes on the train. Shopping done, headed back to the cottage for a quick late lunch. By around 3pm we were ready to head out cross country skiing and decided to go for a short hilly route on the skate skis. This decision was mainly based on the fact that it was already pitch dark and those tracks are well lit, however, I'm not usually a fan of big hills on skate skis It was good to be out on the skis but the first climb up was pretty brutal. Struggling to breathe well in the minus 13C and also it has been snowing slightly so it was hard going in places. However, managed the 1. The decent down the 1. So in total it was 12 km with m of elevation gain. Was quite chilly when we got back skied back to the door down the very quiet side road so have warmed up in the sauna. More xc skiing tomorrow - hopefully a longer and less hilly route. Don't think there was any flat today! Ski the Net with snowHeads. Have a great time, I was in Akaslompolo last week, almost too cold to skate ski. So mainly did classic. Did end up with frost nipped on my ears. Dropped to minus 24 one afternoon. Love the warming huts and the donuts, will never eat a normal donut again. Heading there ourselves in January for a couple of weeks, though we will be flying and taxiing, then shopping with a kick sled. It'll be our 4th trip there. And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. Today was more skate skiing. Left around 11 am by which time it was 'light' although with low cloud and some light snow it wasn't great visibility. We passed a ski school group early on. All Finnish adults who did not look like beginners as they were classic skiing without poles looking pretty ok. The route to Velhonkota had just been pisted, and although there are a few lumps, it is more downhill than up so we made good progress. Very scenic and very quiet. In the This climb went pretty well as it is about 6 km of up but never too steep so it was good for skating at a reasonable pace. In total it was 29 km and m of elevation in 2 hrs 52 of moving time there were quite a few short breaks! Tired legs but it was a good day out - always nice to do a loop. Tomorrow will be work and hopefully a short trip on my classic skis. I've been having huge boot problems with my classic boots for the last 2 years which I hope to try and start resolving tomorrow. Got new skin skis very nice but with the newer SNS Profil bindings so got new boots old ones were also pretty worn. Total disaster with blisters on my heels and big toes. Sold them, bought another pair which are the descendant of my original boots but with a different fastening mechanism, more blisters but not as bad but not great. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. Mainly work today - no issues with using the 4G from my phone for zoom. Went out for a short classic ski at lunch time. Headed north up the western edge of Kesanki quite a climb - 2. From here I headed west and took the shortest route back. Overall The rental boots were good for the first 10 - 12 km and then like my own ones started rubbing my heels and edges of the big toes. Not good. Will go back and swap them tomorrow. Was a bit warmer today - only minus 12C which really felt a lot better than yesterdays C. It has been really overcast with lots of low cloud so not many views and no chance of spotting the northern lights. Forecast suggests much colder temperatures mid week before a storm and warmer temperatures at the weekend. We will see You know it makes sense. I used some Runderwear double layered anti blister running socks. Worked a treat with my new classic xc boots. Might be tricky to get any equivalents up there though. Worth an ask though in one of the outdoor shops. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:. On Tuesday morning I went and swapped the xc classic boots for half a size smaller. However the guy was friendly and did haul out multiple pairs of the same boot in the same size in case some had been stretched more than others Anyway the slightly smaller pair were definitely an improvement - much less heel movement. So on Tuesday I did the same 15 km loop as I had done on Monday but in the opposite direction. It was around C and the low cloud is still here.. However it was still nice to be out. This morning the plan was to go for an early ski as I had some work things from midday. Ended up leaving around am as it was completely pitch dark until then and I was lacking motivation to start skiing in total darkness. However, managed a 10 km ski. We went up the hill towards the downhill skiing area but on the track on the eastern side of the main road that goes passed the Kellokas visiting centre. I'd never done this route before its marked as black on the map so I had steered clear. It was very steep in places resorted to herring bone technique in a few places but it was also very scenic and there were lots of animal tracks around. Weather was similar to yesterday around C but there was a bit more visibility so we could see the tops of some of the fells when we got to the top which was nice. Only a short 10 km ski today but m of elevation gain and it beats being in my office. They have always bent over backwards to help us and make sure we are happy with our kit and have given lots of advice freely and happily. It seems typical that they would try different boots of the same size to try to please you. Not sure why you thought that was funny, I'd say it was going above and beyond. I just thought it was odd that they only have one brand as I know some brands just do not suit some peoples feet. For me usually Salomon and Fischer boots are good but Rossignol boots just do not fit me at all. The shop staff were friendly though. It was just a bit of a comedy scene with me sat with a large pile of boots that were all the same. Did you try in Sports corner, opposite the supermarket? They are good too. Or maybe you could buy some? But as said previously, we have had success with double layer anti blister winter trail running socks. I already own 2 pairs of classic boots neither which agree with my feet so I was attempting to try some other options before I bought a third pair! I hope the smaller boots work out ok until you can find a long term solution. I promise there are really good fun, and will be absolutely nothing like what you might expect. An update on our trip.. On Thursday I had quite a lot of work things that needed doing so no skiing. Its one reason we are up here at the moment as he has been going over there to take care of various instruments. On Friday some extra hands were potentially needed so I was roped in with the deal that we'd go snow shoeing afterwards. So we had a few hours of trying to pack some instruments and get them out of the Finnish forest which was eventually successful. Field work up here at this time of year is pretty brutal! After that the plan was to walk up to Sammeltunturi on our snowshoes. However, it was already a bit later than planned so getting dark so a shorter route was decided upon. It was still very spectacular - the classic Lapland photos of trees bend over covered in snow. It first few kilometres of the track had had a few people on it recently so was quite quick going on the snow shoes, however once we turned off the main track it was a different story. There was many places in the trees with at least 75 cm of very powdery snow so it was really hard going breaking track. Nevertheless it was a good short hike. Today we have been downhill skiing in Levi. Skis are really good - very well looked after. By the time we'd sorted skis, driven to Levi it was after before we were ready to start. We parked at south point as its always pretty easy to find a space there. I knew the forecast was for a warm front with quite a bit of snow and wind this afternoon, however, the chairlift at south was already closed due to weather. Its quite vulnerable to wind in the middle section which I guess is why they still have the t-bar. So we took the t-bar up which was fine. Did a warm up lap on the south piste since it was last winter since I had last been on downhill skis. The snow was really nice though so it was easy to remember how to ski. We skied round 7, then west, then decided to head over to the front slopes for a bit. Its looking really different over there now that the new huge building at the bottom of the new north chairlift is pretty much ready the apartments in that building are on the market for crazy money - around half a million euros for a 60 m2 apartment. After that we skied down to the bottom of Gondola by which time my feet were freezing totally numb so we decided to head over to Tuikku which is the restaurant right on the top for a snack and to warm up. However, when we were on the Gondola I did say its pretty windy so I wasn't hugely surprised that after our coffee, pizza slices and donuts to check the website to find that Gondola had shut due to wind. Since 5 wasn't open there was no open route back to the car. By the time we go to the top of 6 the wind was howling. Both of us learnt to ski in Scotland and it was like that. We did two laps on 6 - the snow was really good and it was deserted. After that w decided to go back to 7 for a few last runs. The wind was so strong but after some major effort we made it. We then did 3 laps on 7 as the snow was so good - a good cm of fresh snow had already settled on the piste. Both of us had comedy falls in the side piste but nothing serious. The route up the t-bar was getting very snow covered in places by the time we finished - big lumps of snow were being wind blown across the track so I was glad not to be on my snowboard! After that we headed back down 8 and with all the fresh snow could easily ski to the car. Still snowing here now but the wind seems to be dropping a bit so hopefully good conditions tomorrow. Wide at the front with very skinny heels. However, the smaller classic boots were ok-ish. No heel lift but squashed little toes. You had quite a day of it. Poleing into the wind on those fells can be very hard. It's made even more 'fun' if you have to tow a child who's not yet competent enough to skate themselves. We even said at the time that we were very happy we had no friends children with us that would be needing a tow! Also at this point I was happy to be on skies, not a snowboard as it would have a walk! So Sunday was more downhill skiing. We knew it was going to be windy and that not much would be open but having rented the skies and with an adventurous attitude we set off to Levi. It was much clearer than it had been for our whole trip so even the drive was very scenic with some really nice light. We parked at south point and did some loops on 8, 7 and 6. I really like the runs off lift number 6 as they are a bit longer than some, usually have really good snow and are generally very quiet. However, today we had planned ahead knowing it was unlikely we'd be able to ski across to the front slopes and back with the chairs being shut. We'd left some hot drinks and food in the car so skied back to south, had picnic lunch and then drove round to the front slopes in the centre of Levi for part 2. We skied the front slopes then all of the runs of lift 13 and 14 which were much more sheltered than elsewhere - we'd had the same comedy skate battles on the top of 7 and 8 as yesterday. The light was still amazing so despite the wind and limited opening of the lifts we had a good time. Sunday evening we went to Rouhe restaurant for dinner. It was very good. We had a sharing plate to start with Rouhe boulders and then we both had the reindeer fillet. On the walk to the restaurant and in the way back we spotted the northern lights. Monday was work in the morning and then a long-ish skate ski. The weather was clear-ish and around minus 10C and the tracks were in good condition. It was quite strange being back on cross country skis after 2 days on alpine skiing - I felt a bit wobbly to start with! The whole trip was 28 km and m of climbing. I had to stop quite a few times for a rest on that section and was glad of my hot drink and snacks I had taken with me. However, I averaged a pace of 5 minute 9 a kilometer so I was quite happy with that. Tomorrow is our last full day here - hoping for one last xc ski trip. Going to Levi early Feb. Flying into Helsinki on Saturday and visiting family before travelling up on Sunday, will ski mon-fri before driving back and seeing family on Sat before flying back on Sunday. Any thoughts welcome. It is very long especially at that time of year. If you are the only driver its a bit of a mission to do it in a day. It is about km and probably is hours of actual driving, mainly on A roads, so do-able in a day but not enjoyable. If there are 2 of you driving its not so bad. Personally if there is still space on the train, I'd take that option. If you don't need a car when you are in Levi there is the train to Kolari plus bus to Levi option which might save a bit? Or the trains to Rovaniemi can be a bit cheaper and then you only have a 2. I hope you didn't mind my camp pic in your trip report. Your descriptions just reminded me of that day. When the lights were strong, did you head out on the lake. We have got some amazing pics from the lake of the lights. Have your feet continued to be ok? And one more question. Though we have been there a few times, we don't know how easy or hard it is to get to Levi. Can we hire a car locally do you know? Or is there a bus? We haven't properly looked into it, and I am sure some of the answers are obvious, but if you have any knowledge it's welcome. Not that we are desperate to go to Levi. But we wondered about going for a night this trip. And this time I have been trying to learn Finnish. It's hard, but not as hard as I thought it would be. The worse thing is trying to remember words when I don't get practice. Today was my day streak on duolingo. OK, it's not amazing, but I really want to try. Finns have always been great to us when we have been there. Ditto for Kolari train station, buses leave right about minutes after a train arrives. Levi is manageable without a car, as the village is very centred. Staying at or near the village everything is walkable. How much usable daylight do you get at this time of year? Learning to ski in Scotland stood you in good stead! New Topic Post Reply. Snow Snow Snow! Solo Skiers v Groups - Orga Archives Lost and Found Ski Club of Great Britain To one side secret Mountain Hideout snowShops You cannot post to forums until you login You cannot read some forums until you login Read about snow conditions : snow conditions And leave your own snow report : snow report Find advice to help plan your ski holidays : ski holidays The snowHeads Ski Club : Ski Club 2. Terms and conditions Privacy Policy. Snow Reports. After all it is free After all it is free. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:. 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