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Where in the Alps are the best prices to be found? And although there are locations — Bulgaria and Romania, for example — where costs are lower, nowhere in the Alps gets close to Passo Tonale. The index does not tell the whole story because it ignores the big-ticket items in ski holidays such as accommodation and transport. Everybody loves a bargain; but nobody wants to go to a resort that's cheap. But, in terms of its facilities, Passo Tonale doesn't seem to be skimping: for this season it has two new lifts, one of them giving direct access to the top of the ski area where a glacier guarantees early-season snow. That, plus km of slopes, seemed too good to miss. Which is why I found myself there in mid-December. If you follow conditions in the Alps you will know about the good early-season snow. The French resort of Val Thorens delayed opening because of concern about its ability to cope with the predicted snowfall. Passo Tonale had no such problem. Since an autumn accumulation on the glacier, no snow had fallen. When I arrived I was told that snowfall was forecast, but not until January. This may have contributed to my feeling that Passo Tonale lacks charm. With all that space, the resort — if one can call it that — seems to have had an attack of agoraphobia. The generic ski hotels simply line the road, as in a suburban ribbon development. Where is the village centre? There isn't one. The skiing — at first sight, just some strips of white stair carpet — was hardly more attractive. But since the late s, Tonale's terrain has formed part of a linked ski area named Adamello after a nearby mountain. Ten minutes down the road is the town of Pontedilegno, whose slopes constitute the other part of the area. In good conditions, the two lift-linked resorts combine to offer a range of terrain. Tonale has the tough stuff on the glacier plus substantial beginner and intermediate slopes above the tree-line; Pontedilegno offers more than a dozen runs on wooded slopes, some intermediate, others more challenging. Adamello has longitude as well as latitude. The highest point, at the top of the glacier, is at 3,m. From there it is possible given snow to ski down to Tonale's resort level then follow the long, steady transition to Pontedilegno's terrain, and traverse it to the far side— a total vertical descent of almost 2,m. My options, though, were limited. At Tonale, I skied the glacier: a short traverse, followed by a straight dash to the mid-station of the gondola. Riding down towards the plateau, I could see where the long, highly rated intermediate runs should be, including the distant Contrabbandieri route and the 4. But it was all just brown grass. So, I gave the skis a break, and focused on military history. Historically Tonale was on the border between Italy and Austria until the First World War when these mountains were a battleground. At the bottom of the glacier there is a touching monument created by an Italian soldier from rock and the detritus of war barbed wire, shell cases, a rifle in honour of the servicemen killed there on 9 June The official, civic war memorial is the dominant feature of Tonale's main drag. The structure has the bones of Italian soldiers inside. There are still servicemen in Tonale, not because no one has told them the war is over but because there is a large barracks in the resort. They had to follow orders, but I could escape to Pontedilegno, which was delightful. The tree-lined slopes were as good as artificial snow permitted. Back in Tonale, I reflected on three-star travel. Obviously you must accept certain privations such as a sketchy breakfast and w-fi and no power in the shower. But the lowly Hotel Cielo Blu proved to be a friendly place and it served a good, imaginative evening meal. Even the manager's dark countenance proved misleading. Of course the virtue of being a cheapskate is that you don't have much to lose. Blowing the bonus on a trip to a Californian resort with no snow? That's a disaster. But if the snow doesn't show on a low-cost trip to the Alps, that's no more than disappointing, even if the season's first flakes fall as you depart. The closest airport is Verona, served by easyJet ; easyJet. Crystal ; crystalski. Click here to find flights to Verona. Pontedilegno and Passo Tonale: adamelloski. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies. Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in Please refresh your browser to be logged in. I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our privacy policy. Join our commenting forum Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Comments. Thank you for registering Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in Please refresh your browser to be logged in.

Passo Tonale ski review - Italian resort the ideal place to return to the slopes

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Equipment is central, but don't forget accessories and technical apparel. In our stores you will find accessories and technical apparel of ttrusted brands — for a warm, dry, safe In our stores you will find qualitative equipment, good value and a wide array of everyting you might need for your holiday. In our stores you will find every and each accessory for your safety and well-being in the mountains — and our prices are unbeatable! Delpero shop Enjoy mountain at its fullest! Our figures.

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