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Panjakent is more than just another Silk Road settlement, as it lay at the centre of the Sogdian Empire. Panjakent made its first mark in history when mentioned in early Iranian Achaemenid records from the 6th century BC. Money was also made here as the river was a source of gold as it is today. The surrounding valleys were and still are some of the most fertile for many miles. As the town grew, beautiful frescoes were added to the houses, and this thriving town became home to Zoroastrian temples, Buddhists, Manicheans, and Nestorians. Unfortunately, in this was all to end as the Arabs completed their two-year siege, and conquered not only Panjakent but the whole Sogdian region. During the Arab onslaught much of the town was destroyed, some people remained, some fled whilst a few chose to follow the last Sogdian ruler, Dewashtich. Dewashtich famously retreated into the mountains from where he waged a guerrilla war against the invading army but was later captured and crucified. Panjakent limped on for around another 50 years eventually its remaining residents abandoned this thriving town. Its houses, temples, and streets were left deserted to slowly crumble and decay. This is not the end of the story however, as Arab geographers once again mentioned Panjakent in the 10th century. Panjakent has grown once more, its location slightly nearer the river, and it gets a mention as it has a mosque now. From this point the history of Panjakent is very much tied to the rest of the region, eventually becoming part of Tajikistan when its borders were defined during the Soviet Union. Although this was to have an added benefit as it meant that the history of Panjakent was to surface again. From a team of Russian archaeologists led by Y. Yakubovsky, A. Belenitsky and B. Marshak of the Ermitage Museum in St. Petersburg were to begin their work. This has meant that a lot of the stunning frescos have now ended up in either museum in St Petersburg or Dushanbe. The Panjakent of today is a slightly sleepy affair, the entrance to the town lacks a certain wow factor and you may almost feel as though you are passing another village. There is no doubt about it Panjakent is certainly a one-road town everything happens along the main street, accommodation, restaurants, markets, museums, and shops. It's et to grow again. Panjakent did suffer during the rocky relationship between Uzbekistan and Tajikistan, Being a border town with no border to cross came as a bit of a blow. Since the thawing of relations, it looks as though more trade has already started as well as cross border tourism. This can only be good news as there is so much to see in the small sleepy corner of the world. This is not only due to its proximity to the famous city at 50KM; Panjakent was the last city on the way from Samarkand when travelling east to the Kukhistan Mountains. After AD ancient Panjakent was left deserted and not touched again frozen in time awaiting its modern discovery. This was the original name of Panjakent and has the same meaning as its current variation, 5 villages or settlements. When travelling inside Tajikistan, the drive from either Khujand or Dushanbe is simply amazing, both meeting at the crossroads in the town of Anyi. From Anyi the road follows the Zerafshan valley and river, skirting mountains and cutting through steep river valleys the early parts of this journey are not for the faint-hearted. Around 1 hr from Panjakent, the Zerafshan valley opens up to lush green fields flanked on either side by mountain ranges. The winter months normally see temperatures around 0 or a little below. The best times to visit are late spring throughout summer especially if planning to hike in the surrounding mountains, where temperatures will be lower. The drive to Dushanbe is amazing and a real journey, care should be taken though due to the journey being affected because of seasonal weather and Tajik driving. This journey will take you through the notorious tunnel of death. Once in Dushanbe or coming from most busses stop just past the Cement Factory, if using a personal car they may take you to or near your destination. There is a small airport in Panjakent although at the time of writing there are currently no regular services using this airport. Now the border has opened this may change in the future. As of March , the border is now open, a. This is truly a must-see in Panjakent even if you have just an afternoon or morning. This archaeological site contains the surprisingly well-preserved ruins of ancient Panjakent - a walled city which stood years ago and was an important trading city on the Silk Road. Now only ruins are left especially as the walls were constructed of clay bricks. Once you start exploring however you will see fragments of colored pottery scattered on the ground, you may even manage to make out parts of the city. This area is even better with one of the local guides who will be able to truly bring the site to life. The views across new Panjakent, the Zerafshan River and mountain range are also pretty tasty too. Located 15km west of Panjakent on the way to the Uzbek border lays another important archaeological site. The ongoing excavations show the layout of a complex settlement. Looking down from above these covered pits reveal walls, doorways, and streets. It is still possible to see what was eaten at the time as small bones and funeral offerings are uncovered. As you may have guessed we do like an ageing museum, especially one from the Soviet Union. This one does not disappoint, you will be required to put velvet covers over your shoes, there will also be a woman following you to make sure nothing is amiss. The Museum offers up a glimpse of the frescoes which were once uncovered in ancient Panjakent, few are original here the ret reproductions. There are also relics and other discoveries such as funeral offerings and jewelry from local ladies of the time. Near to the end of the museum are also some pretty decent artefacts from the more modern soviet history. This bustling market cannot and should not be missed, sitting on a bend in the road as you enter the town. Its entrance is comprised of eye-catching yellow brickwork, and always busy with locals coming and going. If you are interested in local life, photography, shopping or just out for supplies then this is for you. In my opinion, the market in Panjakent is one of the friendliest markets in the country, do treat people with respect, ask before photographing and have a laugh and a joke. Those interested should head to the centre of the market to visit the picturesque central building which houses markets core traders. Try some of the region's famous walnuts and apricots along with some of its fresh honey. This restaurant is located next to a small local food market; the food is basic not aimed at tourists but hot and fast. This is a more staged homestay affair located on the backstreets of the town it is well worth the visit. Set in an old-style wooden house the owner has collected a plethora of old Tajik items making it even more interesting. Once inside the family prepares a series of courses including salad, soup, and Plov. The Plov here is some of the best I have had in the region. Not registered yet? Register now. Got an account already? Let me log in. By Koryo Tours. Pajakent Tajikistan Travel Guide. Panjakent History Panjakent made its first mark in history when mentioned in early Iranian Achaemenid records from the 6th century BC. Panjakent Settlement Panjakent has been known by various names. The gateway to Samarkand This is not only due to its proximity to the famous city at 50KM; Panjakent was the last city on the way from Samarkand when travelling east to the Kukhistan Mountains. Central Asian Pompeii After AD ancient Panjakent was left deserted and not touched again frozen in time awaiting its modern discovery. Panchekant This was the original name of Panjakent and has the same meaning as its current variation, 5 villages or settlements. Around Panjakent When travelling inside Tajikistan, the drive from either Khujand or Dushanbe is simply amazing, both meeting at the crossroads in the town of Anyi. Panjakent Transport How to get to and travel around Khujand. Fly There is a small airport in Panjakent although at the time of writing there are currently no regular services using this airport. To Samarkand As of March , the border is now open, a. Ancient Panjakent This is truly a must-see in Panjakent even if you have just an afternoon or morning. Sarazm Neolithic site Note more ruins I hear you say! The Rudaki Museum of History As you may have guessed we do like an ageing museum, especially one from the Soviet Union. Central Market This bustling market cannot and should not be missed, sitting on a bend in the road as you enter the town. Restaurants Restaurant Druzhba This restaurant is located next to a small local food market; the food is basic not aimed at tourists but hot and fast. Sayokhat This is a more staged homestay affair located on the backstreets of the town it is well worth the visit. Koryo Tours Tajikistan Tours. Get our newsletter:. Thank you! You have successfully joined our subscriber list. Find us on. Please complete your details below. Trouble logging in? Reset password. Remember me. Your details We need this information in order to create your account. Sign me up to the Newsletter.
Overland Journal Day 82-92: Tajikistan (Seven Lakes and the Pamir Highway)
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Tajikistan is described as the The Roof of the World and, with more than half of the country lying above an elevation of 3, metres 9, ft , it is home to some of the highest mountains on earth. While the country encompasses the smallest amount of land among the five Central Asian states, in terms of elevation, it surpasses them all! A view, from Tajikistan, of the soaring peaks of the Hindu Kush mountain range in neighbouring Afghanistan. A big draw for visitors to Tajikistan is the opportunity to travel along the infamous Pamir highway , a gruelling, alpine highway which connects Tajikistan with neighbouring Kyrgyzstan. The road is named after the Pamir mountain range, through which it travels. The Pamir range, which occupies all of eastern Tajikistan, is majestic and awe-inspiring with peaks soaring to over 7, metres 23, ft. A view from the Pamir highway near the town of Murgab. Largely unpaved, the Pamir highway stretches for 1, km through rugged, spectacular, remote, unforgiving landscapes, connecting the Tajik capital of Dushanbe with the city of Osh in the south of Kyrgyzstan. The Pamirs are remote, a challenging destination for body, mind and soul. No shortage of spectacular mountain scenery along the Pamir highway. A land-locked country in Central Asia, Tajikistan is bordered by Kyrgyzstan on the north, China on the east, Afghanistan on the south, and Uzbekistan on the west and northwest. Looking across the Panj river to neighbouring Afghanistan in the Wakhan valley. The country includes the Gorno-Badakhshan autonomous region , with its capital at Khorog, which lies across the Panj river from neighbouring Afghanistan. A young Tajik girl, enjoying a day out at Hissar fort near Dushanbe. A Tajik wedding party visiting Hissar fort. With a total population of 9,, — Tajikistan is mostly inhabited by the Tajiks who comprise four-fifths of the population , an Iranian people, speaking a variety of Persian. The Tajiks have lived in Central Asia for millennia but today are to be found in Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Uzbekistan. Russian is used as an inter-ethnic language with very few people speaking English or any other foreign languages. The Tajiks are generally reserved, and will not go out of their way to interact with strangers, but are friendly when addressed. Making up the other one-fifth of the population are the Pamiris , an Iranian ethnic group who are native to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region , which is bisected by the Pamir highway. The Pamiris are different to the Tajiks in many ways; from their physical features, to their traditional dress, their unique culture and traditions. One notable difference is that Pamiri women traditionally enjoy fewer restrictions than do Tajik women. They are very visible and active in all spheres of society, participating in most activities, equally, alongside men. The Pamiris of Tajikistan share a unique culture with other Pamiri communities which lie across the borders in neighbouring Afghanistan and Xinjiang China. The national flag of Tajikistan was adopted in , following independence from the former Soviet Union , and consists of three horizontal stripes in red, white and green. The giant kg flag of Tajikistan, flying in downtown Dushanbe. The flag measures 60 m X 30 m. The crown and stars are hard to replicate on hand-painted flags, so they are normally omitted, leaving many flags looking like a horizontal version of the Italian flag. To check the current rate against the USD, click here. Tajikistan is purely a cash society, with credit cards almost never accepted. The black economy is alive and thriving, with everyone eager to conceal their earnings from the tax authorities. Even deluxe hotels, or expensive electronic shops in Dushanbe, will insist on cash payment for everything — this often involves a trip to the bank! The bank maintains a limited number of branches in Dushanbe and Khujand. Their one ATM in Dushanbe, which accepts Mastercard, can be found on Rudaki avenue , next door to the Segafredo cafe, opposite the Tsum department store. If you do rely on these cards, and will be entering Tajikistan along the Pamir highway from Kyrgyzstan , your first chance to use an ATM will be in Dushanbe. Tajikistan is a destination which can be enjoyed, even on the most stringent of budgets! Travel costs in Tajikistan can only be described as a bargain. Always, when it came time to settle a bill, I was pleasantly surprised by how cheap everything was. I never complained! Tajikistan has one of the slowest internet services in the world , according to Cable. From their website you can download the complete excel table which places Tajikistan in position of , with an average download speed of 1. A government building in Panjakent, featuring an obligatory image of President Emomali Rahmon. You can be sure that in any country where the President has created a personality cult around himself, that the politics is rotten! All government buildings in Tajikistan are emblazoned with giant-sized images of President Emomali Rahmon while his image appears elsewhere in many other places. Following independence from the Soviet Union in , Tajikistan spiralled into a civil war which lasted from until During this tumultuous period, Rahmon was elected President in and has been in the post ever since — another autocratic ruler in a region which is rife with them! A Tajik told me that, when it comes time to vote, staff at each polling station provide clear instructions on who to vote for! Not surprisingly, the President keeps winning each election! Western observers report that Tajikistan has not held a free or fair election since The President has appointed many of his family members to senior government posts. Within this environment, corruption flourishes on all levels. Everyone knows the drill! If a problem is found, a small payment is made and away you go. Throughout the countryside, Tajikistan police still maintain the old Soviet-era checkpoints, which always block your way with a boom gate across the road. Once payment has been made, the gate will open. These are less checkpoints and more toll gates. The entrance to the only kilo-wash laundry I could find in Dushanbe. The curse of all modern travellers is dirty laundry! At some stage, even a busy nomad needs to take timeout from exploring the world to do laundry. Unless you use a hostel, or and expensive hotel laundry service, it is a challenge to find a laundromat in Dushanbe. Highly recommended! A map of Tajikistan shows my journey, entering from Kyrgyzstan and exiting into Uzbekistan. The sightseeing section is arranged in the order in which I travelled through Tajikistan, from the east along the Pamir highway to the capital, Dushanbe then exiting in the west into Uzbekistan. The view north from the lofty Akbaital Pass 4, metres 15, ft. I got to realise the dream in July of ! The M41 the international road designation for the Pamir Highway is the second-highest international highway in the world, after the nearby Karakorum Highway. The highest pass on the Pamir is Akbaital Pass which is a whisker shy of the height of the Karakorum pass at 4, metres 15, ft. Traffic is very sparse, distances are vast with huge expanses of nothing, in between small settlements. Either you come with your own means of transport, hire a driver with a car which I did! A popular means of travelling the lonely highway, for those independent travellers without their own transport, is to join a shared 4WD trip from Osh. These can be very economical and include car, plus driver, and all associated expenses for the two. I organised a seven day trip from Osh to Dushanbe, through Budget Asia Tour email: budgetasiatour gmail. They seem to enjoy a monopoly on operations along the highway as everyone was travelling with them. The company organises different random travellers into groups of a maximum of 4 then provides them with a 4WD and driver. Beyond the car and driver, nothing else is organised. Accommodation is provided in basic home-stays because there is no other option. This is a journey of hardship which is best suited to intrepid travellers! Located at 3, metres 9, ft , Tulparkul lake in Southern Kyrgyzstan. On the 1st day of the trip, we departed from Osh and drove south, crossing over two passes — the Taldyk pass , which is the highest pass in Kyrgyzstan at 3, m 11, ft and the Chyirchyk pass , which is a minnow at just 2, m 7, ft. After descending the passes, we arrived for lunch in the last town in Kyrgyzstan, the remote, alpine settlement of Sary Tash. Although located on an isolated alpine plain, this tiny town is a key junction for the southern region. Just south of town, a junction allows you to make a left turn for China and travel within a few hours onto Kashgar via the border town of Irkeshtam. You can also turn right and take a faster road to Tajikistan , and onto Dushanbe , via the border town of Karamyk. Or you can continue due south and take the meandering Pamir highway through the Gorno-Badakhshan autonomous region of Tajikistan. We would take the later the following morning , but first we had a detour to our first overnight stop. For our first overnight stop, we made a left turn and travelled west to the sleepy settlement of Sary Mogul. A herd of Yaks grazing on the shores of Tulparkul lake. My yurt at the Lenin Peak yurt camp. The shores of the lake are also home to a yurt camp which was our accommodation for the 1st night. The camp is used by travellers on the Pamir highway and the odd mountaineering group who use the camp to prepare for climbs to the summit of Lenin Peak. A last view back into Kyrgyzstan from the Kyzylart Pass. The following morning, after a totally unremarkable breakfast of stale bread, tea and a strange egg concoction, we headed to Tajikistan. The landscape around the pass is rugged and dry, with the most beautiful ochre-coloured hills and green fields. The pass also marks the start of the Pamir Highway odyssey. Crossing into Tajikistan from Kyrgyzstan at the Kyzylart Pass. From the pass, we headed down to the border then, eventually, onto the Pamir plateau toward Karakul Lake , the highest part of the Pamir highway. Views from the Pamir highway, north of Karakul lake. The Pamir highway travels alongside a continuous barbed-wire fence which was built by the Chinese as a border fortification. The truly breath-taking Karakul lake is located in the middle of nowhere, at an elevation of 3, m 12, ft. Fifty kilometres south of the border, the most spectacular vision came into sight — the shimmering, turquoise-blue, Karakul lake. The lake sits at an elevation of 3, m 12, ft , reaches a maximum depth of metres and has no outlet. Located near the shore of the lake, the small settlement of Karakul was our second stop for the night, a less-than-deluxe home-stay. No shortage of stupendous views at Lake Karakul. The next morning, after another unremarkable breakfast, we continued our journey south to the first large settlement in Tajikistan, the isolated outpost of Murgab. With just km of driving on OK roads, today was the most leisurely, and allowed us plenty of time to spend at Akbaital pass , the highest pass on the Pamir highway at 4, metres 15, ft. A statue of Lenin graces the main square of Murgab. The residents of Murgab add a splash of colour to their homes by painting colourful flowers and trees onto the white adobe walls. The town, which has a real frontier feel to it, consists of adobe-mud structures, shops housed in shipping containers and a couple of concrete, government buildings. A road from Murgab branches off the Pamir highway, leading to the nearby Chinese border post at the Kulma Pass 4, A road sign in Murgab indicates distances to towns which lie north along the Pamir Highway. My stay coincided with a spectacular thunderstorm which apparently is a rarity in these parts. A view from the Pamir highway near the village of Alichur. Day four involved a long, gruelling, hour drive of km which would start in Murgab , on the high Pamir plateau, and end in Langer , a village in the Wakhan Valley, overlooking Afghanistan. The landscapes along the Pamir highway vary greatly, with turquoise lakes, and their green verges, providing a splash of colour in the otherwise arid environment. The astonishing fresh-water spring near to the village of Alichur. The spring is located beside the highway and contains freshwater fish, which can be cooked for lunch by the family of custodians who live nearby. Located in the Alichur Valley , some 20 km north of the Pamir Highway along a dusty, heavily corrugated track, is the incredibly beautiful Bulunkul lake. There are lakes in the Pamir, most of them of tectonic origin. Although very shallow, reaching a maximum depth of just 6 metres, Lake Bulunkul is one of the more picturesque lakes in Tajikistan, and, in the Soviet days, was thoughtfully stocked with Gibel carp. During the long winter months, fishing is impossible as the lake freezes over with up to a metre of ice cover. However, in the summer months, the water thaws and the fish are easily caught as they gather to feed along the densely vegetated shoreline of the lake. The Gibel carp reaches a length of 32 cm and a weight of 1 kg. Locals at a home-stay in the nearby village of Bulunkul fried some of the carp for us to enjoy for lunch, it was the best lunch anywhere in the Pamirs! Reality or a painting? Different minerals provide a colourful backdrop to the very real Bulunkul lake. The village of Bulunkul holds the distinction of being one of the coldest inhabited places in the former Soviet Union , with a record minimum temperature of degrees Celsius recorded. Despite the harsh conditions, the locals are extremely friendly and welcoming and offer home-stay accommodation for those wanting to stay. The shallow waters of Bulunkul lake are frozen for much of the year. Once you cross the pass, you start the decent into the Wakhan valley, with the incredibly vertical Hindu Kush range in neighbouring Afghanistan, spread out before you. This road is very isolated and sees almost no traffic. We were stopped by one, lone Italian cyclist who was miles from anywhere and had run out of water. We gave him two bottles of water and some food. If you are cycling, there are few streams along this route, no settlements and almost no traffic. The sun is baking hot and the landscape arid and parched as you will be. My first views of Afghanistan other side of the river and the upper Wakhan valley, at which point the Panj river is just a stream. After descending the pass, the road winds its way down into the Wakhan valley where it meets the Panj river, a river which forms the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. Spectacular views across the Wakhan valley into Afghanistan, which is dominated by the dramatic Hindu Kush mountain range. Once we had entered the Wakhan valley , we had an almost-straight run into Langer , our next overnight stop. For the next 70 km, it was slow going as the narrow, gravel road wound its way up into the mountains with sheer drops into the river far below and then plunged back down to the river, before climbing again then plunging again. We eventually arrived in Langer, the first Pamiri town on our trip. Friendly locals greeted us at every turn and, across the river, Afghanistan was glowing in the afternoon sunlight. We had arrived in a very different world! It was wonderful. A sweeping view over the Wahkan valley from the ruins at Yamchun Fort. Day five of the odyssey had us drive driving along the banks of the Panj river from tiny Langer to the regional capital of Khorog. The Wahkan valley consists of a string of small, green Pamiri villages which line the banks of the turbulent Panj river. The road along the river passes through numerous green, Pamiri villages, where the fertile land is intensively cultivated. At Yamchun village , we turned inland and headed up a steep, narrow one lane, but two-way , gravel road which eventually opened out on a high bluff where we found the ruins of Yamchun Fort. Yamchun Fort is built on a natural bluff which occupies a commanding position, high above the Wahkan valley. The ruins of the fort are located at a height of 3, m 9, ft , and sit m above the valley of the Panj river. The fort offers commanding views over the entire Wakhan corridor and across into Afghanistan. The triangular-shaped fortress was built on a mountainside and is protected on two sides by deep gorges. The entrance to Bibi Fatima springs, which lie a short drive from Yamchun fort. A few kilometres up the road from the fort lies Bibi Fatima springs , a stop I had been dreaming about. While most home-stays provide very basic shower facilities, you cannot beat a warm, mineral bath, direct from nature. The springs themselves are just a simple concrete room built against the rock face where the hot water emerges from a series of pipes. The water is drinkable at least the locals drink it, and I followed their lead and after a short soak my skin was soft, glowing and rejuvenated. Separate bathing rooms are provided for men and woman with entrance for tourists costing a mere 10 TJS. A road on the Afghanistan side of the Panj river which has been carved out of the cliff face. The sixth day of driving took us km further north along the Pamir highway, from the regional capital of Khorog to the town of Kalai-Khumb pop: 1, The road follows the Panj river, which is further enlarged with several significant inflows. Afghan road workers carving the road out of a cliff face using a single jackhammer. In one place, we could observe Afghan road workers using a jackhammer to carve the road out of a cliff face. The road on the Afghan side of the river is very basic, a simple gravel strip carved out of the sheer cliff faces, with no safety railings anywhere in sight. The appearance of the Tajikistan-Afghanistan Friendship bridge meant that we were now close to Kalai-Khumb, a town which was used by Soviet troops as a staging post during the Soviet-Afghanistan war, which lasted from After six, long, enduring days, bouncing along rough, gravel roads all the way from Kyrgyzstan, it was a pleasant surprise to arrive back onto a freshly asphalted highway — a real highway at last! Day seven involved the most kilometres travelled, but it was one of the shortest days of driving! After so many days of following along the Panj river we waved goodbye to Afghanistan and headed inland to the southern city of Kulab , at this point we also said goodbye to the Pamir region. After a leisurely lunch in Kulab, we made the final drive to Dushanbe , along a fast road with various tunnels. Everyone was happy to have completed the journey. We said our goodbyes, and I checked into my comfortable hotel room — where I took a siesta! Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, is located in the historic Hissar Valley. Unlike other capitals in Central Asia, Dushanbe is small and compact and easily covered on foot in a day. The city has a population of , There are a small cluster of sights located downtown and the, less-than-remarkable, Hissar fort which is located 30 km from the centre. The city is rather charmless and soulless, not my favourite place in the world. The government has embarked on a series of projects to create museums, parks and the worlds now 2nd tallest flagpole. At metres feet , the Dushanbe flagpole is the 2nd tallest in the world. When it was installed in , the metre feet flagpole was the tallest in the world. Then in , the Saudi government inaugurated the m Jeddah flagpole. Due to its weight, the flag only flutters in a stiff breeze, which is normally each afternoon. The National Museum of Tajikistan, as seen from the flagpole. Also in flagpole park is the National Museum of Tajikistan which I would nominate as one of the most least engaging national museums anywhere in the world. Opened in , the museum consists of 21 exhibition halls over four floors. The displays, which cover the history, culture, fauna and flora of Tajikistan are very ho-hum! A display hall at the Tajikistan National Museum, featuring works by local artists. Located in Rudaki park, a statue of Rudaki stands in front of a beautiful mosaic archway which features astronomical bodies. Across the road from Flag Pole park is Rudaki park , which has an interesting monument to the great poet, at its core. A bronze statue of Rudaki lies beneath a huge mosaic arch which features astronomical bodies and other-worldly designs. Ismoili Somoni Statue. The Ismoili Somoni Statue illuminated at sunset. This art deco-inspired monument celebrates the 10th-century founder of the Samanid dynasty. An interesting thing happened while I was photographing this monument, which I assumed to be constructed from polished white marble. I saw locals tapping on the white panels of the monument and it sounded hollow. It seemed to be a fitting metaphor for Dushanbe — all is not what it seems! This was the place where locals, and tourists travelling with In-tourist , would be able to spend their currency on souvenirs, clothes, trinkets and anything else one might desire from behind the iron curtain. While in every other capital, the old fashioned TSUM have been modernised and turned into glitzy malls, the one in Dushanbe still retains its original look and feel. While the outside of the building is distinctly modern, the dated interior harks back to a bygone era. The main entrance to the Hissar fortress, which lies on the outskirts of Dushanbe. Adding to the insult, they have installed a row of modern shops beyond the entrance archway. The Tajiks love it! Panjakent is an historically significant town, which lies km northwest from Dushanbe but just 60 km southeast of Samarkand, Uzbekistan. Ancient Panjakent once served as the capital of the Sogdian empire , which occupied pre-Islamic Central Asia. The ruins of the old town are on the outskirts of the modern city. The mausoleum of the Tajik national hero, the poet Rudaki , is located a short distance out of town. Rudaki, who is known as the father of Persian poetry, was born in AD but has become more significant in post-Soviet Tajikistan, where symbolic, historical figures have been invoked as cultural touchstones for modern Tajiks. Sights worth visiting in town include a bustling bazaar and a mosque , which are opposite each other. The Shumon hotel in Dushanbe is conveniently located downtown. My very comfortable room at the Shumon Hotel in Dushanbe. From the Hotel Shumon, everything of interest in Dushanbe is within a short walk, as is the best cafe in town — the Cafe Segafredo. My spacious room at the Hotel Rudaki in Panjakent. A relative new option in Panjakent is the very good Hotel Rudaki , which is named after the local hero, and father of Persian poetry, who is buried in the town. The hotel is owned by a wonderful family who are very accommodating and welcoming. The rooms are spacious, spotlessly clean and offer views onto the surrounding countryside. The only English speaker is the teenage daughter who does a tremendous job of managing the expectations of the various international guests. Across the road is an excellent cafe which offers amazing Shashlik, salad and beer for dinner. Situated on the sleepy main street of tiny Kalai-Khumb is the new, and very shiny, Hotel Karon Palace. This is definitely the most luxurious accommodation option anywhere in Eastern Tajikistan and a welcome sight, after a week spent in basic home-stays along the Pamir highway. My opulent room at the Karon Palace in Kulai Khumb. My living room at the Karon Palace — a million miles from the ruggedness of the Pamir highway. Outside the doors of the hotel maybe the only automatic doors in the whole of the Pamir region is the sleepy village of Kalai-Khumb. Why such a decadent hotel exists in a small, provisional town is a mystery, but after a week of enduring travel along the Pamir highway, I was very happy to soak up some luxury. No credit cards accepted! A charming, leafy, green town, Khorog is full of friendly Pamiri folk, and offers a good selection of accommodation — and the first opportunity to connect to free Wi-Fi. While in town, I stayed at the excellent Grand Hotel which offers comfortable, modern rooms, free WiFi and a wonderful breakfast. The hotel is located in the heart of the downtown area and has a handy supermarket on the ground floor. The Pamir hotel overlooks the remote town of Murgab. What to say of the Pamir Hotel? Perched on a hill, overlooking the very remote, regional centre of Murgab, this ageing lady is an old Soviet-era relic which is in need of a complete renovation. If it was located in Dushanbe, or anywhere else where there was a healthy amount of competition, the Pamir hotel would receive few guests. However, the Pamir hotel is the best hotel for hundreds of miles around! In fact, it is the only hotel for hundreds of miles around! The view over Murgab, from my room at the Pamir hotel. The whole place is a like an over-sized home-stay, except you have your own private room. Located at 4, metres 13, ft above sea level, the tiny, wind-blown, settlement of Karakul lies on the spectacularly beautiful Karakul lake , 50 km south of the Kyrgyzstan border. This is the first overnight stop in Tajikistan for those travelling south along the Pamir highway. The hardly souls who inhabit the tiny village live in remote isolation from the rest of the world, and are normally cut-off from it for half the year, when snow and ice make the Pamir highway impassable during winter. My cosy room at Homestay Aigerim where sleeping was on the floor. My bedroom , of which I was lucky enough to have to myself, was lined with colourful carpets. Not just the floor, but also the walls! In the evening, I constructed a bed using a pile of thin, padded mattresses. Some home-stays offer shared rooms with single beds. The colourful communal dining area at Homestay Aigerim. Meals are served around a communal table you sit on the carpeted floor and consist of whatever is available in the kitchen. My first meal at Homestay Aigerim was lunch, which consisted of three fried eggs and stale bread. My last meal was breakfast the following morning, which consisted of — well, three fried eggs and stale bread! All meals in Central Asia are served with pots of tea, either black or green. Instead of a bathroom, home-stays normally offer a traditional Banya , a steam bath, which is located outside somewhere. You take a shower by mixing a bucket of cold, mountain, water with some warm water. The best thing about the outhouse at Homestay Aigerim was that there was no roof, which provided lots of ventilation and a great view of the stars at night! A novel concept for an outdoor drinks shop — drinks are kept cool under the flow of a trickling waterfall. I often ate at the Cafe Karat , which was located opposite my hotel — the Hotel Shumon! The cafe is a modern, clean place where you take a tray, file along, select your meal and pay. Food was always very good and the prices were so cheap. How do they do it? Panjakent offers several restaurants and a tea house. I ate at an excellent restaurant, which is located on the roundabout opposite Hotel Rudaki. No idea of the name and cannot find one, but the Shashlik, salad served with a fresh soft cheese and fresh bread were divine. Cutting through the centre of Kalai-Khumb is the noisy, raging torrent, which is the Obikhumboi river. Perched above the river underneath the only bridge in town is the popular, and worthwhile, Oriyona restaurant which serves all your favourite Central Asian dishes like Shashlik, Plov, Manti etc. The best place to sit is on the outdoor terrace, directly above the raging white-water of the river below, the thunderous roar from which will block out any dinner conversation. Feel yourself being transported, for a moment, out of the region and into India, where the smell of spice, and all things nice, hangs in the air. I kid you not! When I was looking for this restaurant, it was the smell of spice in the air which led the way. It really is that good! Not only is the food sensational, but the restaurant is very popular with fellow travellers. A great meeting place on the Pamir highway! The only restaurant in town is on the ground floor of the Pamir Hotel. The Rohat tea-house on Rudaki avenue is said to be the largest tea-house in the world. In Tajikistan, I found just a few good cafes. Most Tajiks live on tea. The open-air Rohat tea-house, a great place to relax over a cup of tea in Dushanbe. If you wish to experience a traditional tea-house, you cannot get any more traditional than the Rohat tea-house , which is located on Rudaki avenue in downtown Dushanbe. This large, airy, outdoor, pavilion was built during the Soviet era and serves tea by the pot along with local cuisine such as Shashlik. The best coffee in Dushanbe is served at the nearby Cafe Segafredo also on Rudaki avenue. The friendly, English-speaking staff serve delicious food and the best coffee in town in a clean, modern environment. The free Wi-Fi at the cafe is the fastest I experienced in the whole country! I had heard on the grapevine that there was a real coffee shop in Khorog, and so, it was with some amount of excitement that I made my way to the Luni Coffee Shop. The good news, for anyone arriving late in town, is that the cafe is open until 10 pm most evenings. The coffee is amazing and they offer freshly baked cakes. My visa for Tajikistan, with the additional permit for Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region on the top page. To check your requirements, please refer to the Visa Policy of Tajikistan. These are checked at police checkpoints as you travel throughout the region. The Tajikistan Embassy in Bishkek is located in the suburbs at 36 Karadarynskaya street. Bus routes 2, 8 and 12 connect the airport with the city centre in 20 minutes. Approaching the Tajikistan border, south of Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan. Tajikistan shares land borders with Kyrgyzstan, China, Afghanistan and Uzbekistan. The fastest and most comfortable way to travel into and out of Tajikistan is with shared taxis which run to and from most borders, although not the remote Pamir Highway border post. In the north, Tajikistan shares a km mi border with Kyrgyzstan. There are currently 5 crossings open, with the most easterly, located south of the Kyrgyz town of Sary-Tash lying on the Pamir Highway. In the west, Tajikistan shares a km mi border with China, which has a mean-looking, barbed-wire fence running its entire length. In the south, Tajikistan shares a 1, km mi border with Afghanistan. Most of the border is defined by the raging, white-water rapids of the Panj river — a truly formidable barrier. Due to the impossibly vertical terrain, which is the Hindu Kush mountain range, there are few people living along the Afghan side of the border. Note: Before leaving Tajikistan, you should ensure you have a double entry visa so you can re-enter the country as onward travel in Afghanistan is not safe. There are several bridges which connect the two neighbours, although not all crossing points are open. The crossings which are currently open are located at the following places:. In the west and northwest, Tajikistan shares a 1, km mi border with Uzbekistan. There are 8 crossing points between the two countries which are connected by rail, bus and shared taxi services. Tajik Railways do offer a website , however it is currently in test mode. Russian Railways train connects Dushanbe to Moscow on a 4, km odyssey. This is the preferred form of transport for the army of Tajik migrant workers who flock to Russia to find better paying jobs. A French couple were driving this comfortable beast along the Pamir highway. A very nice way of cruising the rough roads of Tajikistan — if you can afford the investment! None of the roads throughout the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region have been maintained since Soviet times, but the Chinese are about to change all that! If you venture further south into the Wakhan Valley , the roads are rougher still! Almost all gravel, very narrow in places, often clinging to the sides of sheer drops which plunge into the raging waters of the mighty Panj river. Currently, whatever asphalt remains is largely pot-holed and threadbare with most of the road reduced to gravel by the ravages of time. Built by the Chinese, as part of their Belt and Road Initiative BRI , the new highway is km long, and has slashed driving times from twelve hours to only four. The road includes many tunnels, the longest of which runs under the Shakhristan Pass , with a total length of 5, metres — the longest tunnel in the country. Unlike other regional capitals, Dushanbe is fairly compact and easy to cover on foot. For covering longer distances, buses , trolley-buses and mini buses whizz around town with a ticket costing just 1. Yandex Taxi is an online ride-sharing service which was launched in and is now present in most of Central Asia, including Dushanbe. In , Yandex and Uber merged their operations in the region. The Yandex app can be downloaded onto a smartphone and, in terms of functionality, is very similar to Uber. A much needed car wash in Osh! Before and after photos of my amazing, go-anywhere, Toyota Land Cruiser, perfect for the rough Kyrgyzstan roads. Car Rental options in Tajikistan are very limited and expensive. It can be more economical to rent a car in neighbouring Kyrgyzstan and drive it across the border. Almaz allows one way rentals and advised that his cars can be driven across borders in Central Asia, once additional insurance paperwork had been completed. Additional blogs, articles and information on Tajikistan are available on the Indy Guide website. Darren McLean. Spread the love. The flag of Tajikistan. A panoramic photo of Bulunkul lake. The very retro TSUM department store. The main food hall at Panjakent bazaar. Traders in the market at Panjakent. My cosy room at the Grand Hotel in Khorog. Over the centuries, the Wallisians have combined C. The French territory of Wallis and Futuna is home. On final approach to Wallis Island from Futuna Isl. Departing Futuna Island today on the twice daily s. Load More Follow on Instagram. Central Asia Tajikistan. Leave a Reply Cancel reply.
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