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Alongside them, the blossoms of the tajy and jacaranda trees add explosions of color, painting streets pink, white, yellow, and lilac. The hues and aromas maintain a slim veil of provincial life over a city in the midst of rapid growth, and searching for infrastructure, justice, and balance. The first moments of spring also bring sporadic fluctuations in temperatures. Following days of relative winter cools, the mercury jumps to degree heights, foreshadowing the sweltering summer to come. Spurred by the heat, neighborhood copetines—small eateries—spill out onto sidewalks: Plastic tables are pointed towards soccer-filled televisions and enthusiastically populated. However, take a closer look and, amid these ubiquitous scenes of traditional Paraguayan drinking culture, a craft brewing movement is also having its spring. I stroll through the largely residential neighborhood of Recoleta, passing the towering family tombs that fill the grand cemetery of the same name. The logo on the glass features a cartoon of what appears to be an anteater raised on its hindlegs offering a hug. Tales of former smuggling runs to bring in hops and malts from Argentina abound in the beer community. In a land where a limited number of exceptionally cheap macro Lagers hold a strong grip on the idea of what beer is, it has taken patience to position more costly craft drinks. AcervaPy has taken an active role in running outreach and educational events. As a refreshing, cloudy Grisette takes the edge off the humid day for me, he mentions dreams of publishing a book on the subject. It looks like it will be the biggest one yet. I head into the early evening, shaking off the light mental haze produced by the cocktail of drink and stifling humidity. Rush hour takes place around me: Battalions of cars pass and tired, cramped bus users travel back to the more affordable surrounding towns, likely hoping for improvements in public transport that never come. Mayeli Villalba, photographer and friend, joins me and we enter Tap Garage, the first bar in the country to offer exclusively Paraguayan craft beer on tap. He tells us his affair with beer started early: Back in high school he wrote his graduation project on beer consumption benefits. The reality is that quality is very high. We have no reason to feel inferior to other countries. An English Porter quickly follows. A careful conversion has preserved many of the original features—tall ceilings, big heavy doors—while adding a metal-clad steampunk aesthetic and carving out room for fermenters to produce 68 barrels per month. Exquisite graffiti murals of beer goddesses from different cultures cover the walls. They are likely the only drinks seen more widely than beer. Montanaro mentioned that a priority of the AcervaPy is to have a style of Paraguayan beer officially recognized. It has a depth of flavor yet unknown to me in Paraguayan beer. We make the difficult decision to tear ourselves away from the grill and free-flowing taps and head down the road to Lido Bar, a well-known traditional eatery. I order a truly fantastic egg empanada, the semi-circular turnover that is defined and redefined across Latin America. The list goes on. The decrepit downtown grapples with abandonment: Enormous numbers of residents and businesses long ago relocated to new neighborhoods complete with shopping malls. Whole apartment blocks stand empty and decaying in the thick humidity; second-floor windows of once-grand houses show fascinating displays of wild subtropical plants through their glassless windows. Ironically, high rents stop people from moving into many of these spaces. Property speculation and a lack of urban planning are often cited as causes of the situation. The pandemic has only intensified the issue. A narrow staircase takes us up to the second story of an old building; many similar spaces in buildings on the surrounding streets stand abandoned. They can really shine when given the chance. The wooden floors shake as a young crowd parties into the night, dancing to the sounds of reggaeton and slightly retro English-language pop and rock. I bump into some friends celebrating a birthday and shortly after call time. The following day, a Saturday, offers a feeling of renewed life. A squad of drummers sit at their drum kits in Plaza de la Democracia, rocking out to classics, and numerous streets have been temporarily closed to cars to make room for tables from bars and restaurants. The year-old venue is an island of prestige and finery in the city center. Customers—some drinking beer or coffee, some with a range of traditional Paraguayan dishes and pastries—share intimate moments under the pleasant lighting. Elegantly dressed older locals, many of whom have been coming daily for decades, sit alongside tourists just passing through. On tap are Sajonia Brewing Company and Herken, two of the original trailblazers of the craft scene. While Sajonia has expanded into larger premises since becoming part of the Grupo Cartes conglomerate—the giant business group of former Paraguayan President Horacio Cartes—the Stanley brothers continue brewing Herken from their home. The street here is also closed off, and dotted with tables packed with groups of friends—skaters and BMXers weave about, and eclectic music fills the air. This is the cuadra cultural, the cultural block, home of La Chispa. Milena Coral, cultural manager at La Chispa, says the space is giving its all to fight a difficult battle. This is a place in which to play music, to simply be. Beer is clearly at the heart of the operation: a social lubricant that also provides funds to keep the rent paid and activities free. The fridge has historically been stocked with identical bottles of the overwhelmingly successful Pilsen brand of macro Lager. Brown paper wrapping around the bottle sets it apart with a smart finish. Estrella, a young MC, is first up—she touches existential themes as a crowd begins to gather. His journey in brewing has been one of slowly and progressively reinvesting profits to upgrade from 4. In a country where so many people face great poverty and need, he believes it is necessary to think about the role played and represented by a premium product. Seeing his beer in La Chispa and other similar cultural spaces, which are frequented by people from diverse sectors of society, may be a first step towards this goal. As he was poor, too. It made life difficult. He had a very difficult life. Other brewers are also pushing hard against barriers in the industry. Nicole Bibolini is production chief at Palo Santo, one of the biggest names in the sector. We sit in the chic industrial interior of the Palo Santo brewpub. Bar staff dust down tables and the first customers of the day make their way in just after work. Forty taps stand behind the bar, their handles—all varying in size—made of the fragrant wood of the native palo santo tree that lends the brewery its name. She has co-founded two initiatives to challenge this dynamic. The market was missing that type of presence. Now, their beers are stocked at numerous liquor stores and a feminist cultural center where Biblioni reports it sells better than the stalwart macro Lagers. Date Cuenta also runs educational activities for all. It organizes a regular brewing school that includes classes on a broad selection of techniques and also offers food pairing events to the public. Biblioni says these initiatives help overcome the difficulty in accessing resources and information in Paraguay that keeps many from brewing—or from simply finding deeper enjoyment in craft beer, especially those without the option of traveling abroad to do courses. The group of merry brewers sitting around the tables in the patio chuckle. Lazzari nods knowingly. Good Beer Hunting. Now people know what craft beer is. Saison Sweatshirt. Feel Goods Tote. GBH Mascot Tee. Seltzer Sweatshirt. Dope Girls — Volume 6.

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