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We have barely entered the chaotic louage station before someone spots us — two backpack laden travellers on the move — and points us in the direction of the correct ticket window for Monastir, and as soon as we have our tickets, a second person is there to show us to the right louage. This is just how Tunisia, and Kairouan, is: helpful people everywhere. For those unfamiliar with this kind of transport, the louage and its counterparts in other countries, there is no timetable, the driver simply waits until all seats are taken and, as soon as they are, he hits the road. With a stroke of luck the Monastir bound louage has two seats left and the driver is waiting for his last two punters just as we rock up, so in less than five minutes from walking into the station we are on our way to the coast. Sometimes things just fall perfectly into place. Today heralds a point of change on this Africa adventure. We say goodbye to Kairouan on the last day of Ramadan so from here onwards the restrictions of the sacred month are gone; and as well as this we are swapping the holy city for what we expect to be the tourism-heavy resort town of Monastir for a few days. Quite some change on several levels. Tonight is also the start of Eid, the celebration at the end of Ramadan, a day which traditionally sees families gather together to mark the end of the month, an even bigger celebration than that first day back in Luxor over four weeks ago. It might not surprise you to learn that our best experiences of iftar have been in those earthy downtown places rather than the more genteel versions in restaurants — not least our very last one at a street kitchen in Kairouan, which was superb. With Ramadan ending on a Sunday, the Eid celebrations start in earnest on the Monday, the first of three successive days of public holiday, and there is something of a festival feel in Monastir throughout the next two days. There is a tradition of ladies buying a new frock for Eid and, judging by the large numbers of smartly dressed females from toddlers to middle aged out enjoying the holiday sunshine, that tradition continues. Families meet, children play, crowds mix — there is definitely a sense of the carefree in the air pretty much like public holidays back home, something akin to lively fairground or summer fete. Squares and parks are full all day, popcorn and candy floss trucks do roaring business, the menfolk play with children instead of sitting in the coffee bars. There is considerable feelgood. With the Eid public holiday coinciding with shoulder season and a quiet time for tourism, we are witnessing something just a bit mystifying too. Monastir is seemingly full of Muslims drinking, even to excess, evidently. Muslims with alcohol? What are we witnessing here, we wonder. A release at the end of Ramadan where the locals indulge themselves for a few days and then go back to obedience? Or are Muslims less devout here because of the tourist influence? Is it too easy to defect when temptation is so blatant? Our base in Monastir is not in the main tourist area around Skanes but a hotel close to the marina, in town. There are more Real Madrid shirts than djellabas in the souks. The end of Ramadan feels like something of a release for us too, especially here in Monastir where things are different. For the first time in a month we can stop at a cafe and enjoy a coffee in the sun; for the first time in a month we can enjoy street food such as mlawi or chapati; we can drink water without going into hiding. Experiencing Ramadan and iftar has been a real travel story, but it feels very good to reach the freedom granted by the end of the sacred month. Bourghiba statues are dotted around the town. Tunisia in general reveres this particular hero, Monastir, his home, doubly so. The ribat is beautifully restored — so much so that as we explore and climb its interior, parts of it look like a new build designed to look like something of great age, rather than the ancient castle which it actually is. The Mediterranean shouts its characteristic shades of blue as it laps the shores, but finds itself competing with afternoon cloud which brings an unseasonable chill to the evening air. Ahh, and look at those beers! I just love the Ribat and that interesting mix of old and new architecture elements! I see what you mean about the Ribat being a bit over-restored, but the setting is lovely. The Bourghiba Mausoleum looks impressive, especially the contrast between the colourful exterior and more austere white interior. Yes the smoke thing is like going back thirty years — or maybe like going to Germany last week! Back to abstinence now though, for a while at least…. Like Sarah though I would struggle with the cigarette smoke everywhere, especially in a restaurant. Yes it takes a bit of getting used to again. One thing I remember about Monastir is the cleanliness. Maybe because the streets and sidewalks are better maintained than elsewhere. Looking at your photos, I get the impression that everything is clean and neat. So far we would say that, in terms of cleanliness and other similar measures, Tunisia is a step up from the rest of North Africa, and Monastir a step up within Tunisia. Not as authentic but very neat and tidy. I am surprised the temperatures are not very very warm, are they going towards winter there? Daytime temperature was low 20s. Must be more careful with T shirt selection In future….! The shots of the Mausoleum were fantastic — ditto the Ribat. I also enjoyed your take on iftar at different locations. Curious to see where your discovery of Tunisia will take you next! How neat to visit Monastir at the start of Eid. Your pictures look lovely. Glad to hear that you finally found some decent beer and wine. Hi Andy, thank you. Daytime food options in most towns and cities during Ramadan is extremely limited, virtually all cafes are closed until time for iftar — except of course inside the international hotels. Monastir is different from the other towns we visited and much more tourism driven so you will find food and even alcohol! The photo was taken from some rocks which jut out into the sea, rather like the one in the foreground in the photograph. Hope this helps! The Hungry Travellers Independent travel, food, photography and culture. Kairouan louage station For those unfamiliar with this kind of transport, the louage and its counterparts in other countries, there is no timetable, the driver simply waits until all seats are taken and, as soon as they are, he hits the road. Ribat Monastir Tonight is also the start of Eid, the celebration at the end of Ramadan, a day which traditionally sees families gather together to mark the end of the month, an even bigger celebration than that first day back in Luxor over four weeks ago. Share this: Twitter Facebook Pinterest. Like this: Like Loading It was very nice to get a beer in the sun! Monkey's Tale May 5, at pm Reply. Toonsarah May 5, at pm Reply. Back to abstinence now though, for a while at least… Loading Heyjude May 5, at pm Reply. Lookoom May 5, at pm Reply. Strange days indeed! Most peculiar Mama. Gilda Baxter May 6, at am Reply. Annie Berger May 6, at am Reply. It was definitely a surprise! WanderingCanadians May 7, at am Reply. Also, where did you take the picture of the Monastir Ribat in the top-most picture of this post? Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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Friday 15 th May — Monastir, Tunisia Market. This morning we decided to take the bikes and cycle down to the large local market behind the fishing port. The area at the back of the fishing port and the market was really dirty with rubbish all over and the place smelt bad in the heat and wind. It was set out like a jumble sale really with piles of second hand clothes and shoes, everywhere, even on the floor. There were also some fake designer clothes and fragrances, my favourite being one with the spelling of Hugo Boss as Hogu Boos. Quiet an experience! This afternoon the weather turned humid. After lunch, as the wind was quiet, we re-hoisted the genoa, and then we had another go at trimming the new foam mattress we bought in Cagliari to fit our bunk. Later Richard repaired the stitching around the back of the cockpit enclosure. Late afternoon the wind blew up and the rain came in. This evening we are holding on as we rock around in our berth in winds gusting knots on the beam. This night we finally finished the tuna J. Monastir: Local market. Monastir, Tunisia Market. Friday 15 th May — Monastir, Tunisia Market Mon 26 Jul Messolonghi Spring cleaning begins In Africa?

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