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IN church, in the middle of a solemn liturgy, a mobile phone rings from inside a black Karl Lagerfeld bag parked on its own chair in front of me. On and on it goes, a modern ringtone that clashes with the austere chanting and the Byzantine saints looking down, weary-eyed, from the surrounding frescos. Peace at last. If I could have picked the right tone for the Lagerfeld woman it would have been Never On Sunday , popularised in the Greek film of the same name. Strangely though, British people are catching up and ditching rules, especially in politics: environmental laws, labour laws and parliamentary procedure, but in a much less charming way. It was a typical village, slightly ramshackle round the edges with olive groves, dogs chained in fields, and as usual in rural villages, there were old, rundown buildings too. Sad to see a few old tavernas and kafeneia now closed, though the newer kafeneio Bakaliko by the main square was rather pleasant, recently opened by a local woman offering a shiny version of the trad kafeneia with their typical scuffed rush-bottom chairs and battered metal tables. It was a nice place to sit on a Sunday near the church of the Panayia Virgin Mary and watch people passing by, and meet a few of our neighbours. The original dwelling was flattened during the earthquake that ruined much of the island. The new house has a traditional feel with stone walls and a smattering of rural mementos. This is real Greece with all its joys and imperfections. More of that later. To see the village house, Villa Gioia, in Katastari , visit www. Zakynthos is a small compact island and its beauty spots are already well known and written about, mainly the Shipwreck Cove with its spectacular cliffs and the rusting, stranded ship. For a different side to Zakynthos, however, we took the road west across the island to the hillside villages of Maries, with its typical Greek square and a slew of attractive old buildings with a shabby chic aura, like the one below. The village of Exo Hora, further south, was also traditional in parts, with a lovely view to the sea. And if derelict old village buildings attract you, there was a small settlement on the west of this village with an abandoned mill and some crumbling stone houses, as you see in many hillside villages in Greece. It was curious. The town of Zakynthos, in the south-east, with a coastal setting and a thriving harbour, turned out to be the biggest draw for us, even though in September it was still hoaching with tourists and it was difficult to find a parking space. However, even that turned out to be a bonus. We had to park in a back street at the edge of the city and it meant walking quite a way through the backstreets, which were fascinating and teeming with urban life, to get to the centre. As the famous church of Ayios Dionysios the patron saint of the island was also on our route, we called in for a visit. If you want to know how church relics have brought me out in panic attacks in Greece, you might like to read my chapter on the subject in my fourth memoir A Donkey On the Catwalk. The town is full of treasures like the Byzantine Museum on Solomos Square that houses a fabulous collection of frescos, icons and whole altar panels taken out of the many churches, some dating from the early 16 th century, that were tragically destroyed during the devastating earthquake of The private garden site is now a memorial to the two brave men who helped to save local Jews during , when Nazi invaders controlled the island. On an island where Jews had lived for centuries and had always been accepted, the two men tacitly refused to hand them over to the Germans and boldly put their own names on the list instead, telling the commander that all the Jews had left the island already, which many later did, or were hidden by the islanders. The entire Jewish population was thereby saved. For more information visit www. Stathmos means bus station, which is what the old building was until recently. It still has a slight utilitarian feel about it, with its wide metal awning at the front and dark green shutters, but the caged canaries were a lively addition and the waiters were chirpy as well. While we waited for our meal to arrive, I kept anticipating a city bus pulling up out front for a take-away though it never happened of course. The Stathmos is an old-style place, reminiscent of tavernas you might have encountered decades ago with similar dishes and a no-nonsense approach. We had giant stuffed peppers and a moussaka, all very tasty and filling. The view down to the city and harbour is one of the most photographed in Greece and is stunning see top photo. Some of Zakynthos is criticised for being overdeveloped and the south coast, with the infamous clubby Laganas, comes into that category and while popular Alykes on the east coast seemed touristy as well with its fair share of more commercial restaurants, and bars with names like Piccadilly Bar etc, it has one big redeeming feature: the beach. There are plenty of tavernas in Alykes, though nothing stood out for us. The place we found the most peaceful and authentic was a family-run restaurant on a hill above the popular tiny beach north of Katastari, called Xigia, which has sulphur springs bubbling up into the water, reported to be therapeutic. The restaurant on the hill above is called the Nireas, run by a charming family with good wholesome Greek dishes and an awesome view right down the coast and across to the nearby island of Kefalonia. For me, Greece is all about the people and Zakynthos proved to be a friendly place. In a couple of weeks we had got to know some of the villagers in Katastari well enough to be sorry we had no time to find out more, like the brothers who run the supermarket next to the church, one of whom had spent a few years in Chicago but had always dreamt of coming back to his birth village to live in the house his family have owned for generations. She makes a pretty good spanakopita spinach and feta pie as well. The nearby owner had them no doubt to protect her chickens etc and the first few nights they seemed to bark a lot. One night I had a cough and every time I started up, one dog in particular barked. It went on a while. Cough, bark, cough, bark, as if we were having some odd nocturnal conversation over our respective yards. In the following days, the dogs barked less. It suddenly occurred to me that each new set of foreigners who moved in probably made the animals edgy, understandably, because of the way noise travels in rural Greece. But once they got used to you, they gave up. Available in ebook and paperback on all international sites. You can find them also on her Amazon page. You can also follow her on FB www. And Twitter: www. Thanks for dropping by. All comments are gratefully received. I am currently in the process of sorting the comments function. If you want to get in touch otherwise you can via the contact icon on the home page of the website or via social media. All text and photographs copyright of the authors This applies to all posts on the blog. Zakynthos Town and harbour viewed from the upper district of Bochali. Marjory at the village kafeneio in Katastari. The Bakaliko kafeneio. Iconic Greek image in eastern Zakynthos with Kefalonia in the distance. A vibrant village house in Maries. Ruins of an old house and mill in the village of Exo Hora. The meditating papas at Ayios Dionysios. Ayios Giorgos from a Byzantine church destroyed in One of the best beaches in north Alykes. Busy Xigia beach with its sulphur springs. Like this: Like Loading Please share this post.

Blow Off In Zante?

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Bored with the same old windsurfing spots? Want to explore a new, exciting holiday location and use some awesome gear? However, watching the downing of hardcore spirits at 5am by a hen dressed in a leopard skin suit was making us feel like bailing for the next available flight to Vass! Most Brits will be aware of Zankynthos, more commonly referred to as Zante, which has been a mainstay of the UK holiday scene for years. Nightclubs, strip joints, karaoke bars, fast food outlets and the obligatory Irish pubs are strewn across a small patch of land not too far away from the main airport. After visiting Laganas during the day we left needing a shower. Once out of the hustle and bustle of Laganas and Zakynthos town, the road winds up steep hilly passes and gives amazing views of the stunningly blue Ionian. At points you notice secluded coves that are flanked by impressive cliffs and hidden caves. We wound our way along the mountain route and after a relatively short drive we arrived at our destination — the small port of Agios Nikolaos and the Peligoni Club. Upon arrival at Peligoni Club we were greeted by glassy calm waters and sweltering heat. The beach staff welcomed us to our base for the next 10 days as did Snoop, the Peligoni dog and mascot. Chris Haysey brother of Jay — owner of Globalshots is the beach manager at the centre and he informed us that the breeze had been playing ball the previous week, delivering 25 knot days on a regular basis. Feeling undeterred and adopting an upbeat and optimistic attitude after a moment anyway we decided to cleanse ourselves of the travel grime by taking a dip in the tantalizingly blue waters of the Ionian. After grabbing a couple of Tushingham Rocks and Starboard Rios, Fi and I headed into the extremely light breeze for a bit of sail flicking. It was a pleasant surprise when after 45 minutes of faffing about the thermal wind started to fill in! At first I was taken by aback as I was totally not expecting anything. Sure enough, while adjusting harness lines, footsraps and deck plates the breeze continued to build and as I launched I watched Fi blast off across the shimmering water at full power. After all our gear was neatly tidied away Fi and I made our way to the bar — sunburnt, salt encrusted and spent, but extremely fulfilled. Those first two maybe three? He explained to us that the club never usually attracts regular sailors and it was refreshing to have us both in resort. Ben then went on to give us the low down on the wind and how it worked. Most of the staff by the end of their season are usually pretty handy — even if they arrive having never windsurfed before. For the rest of our stay we spent most mornings spooning around on SUPs or exploring in our hire car. Zakynthos boasts some amazing scenery including the iconic Shipwreck Bay and Blue Caves — all only accessible by boat. Beach manager Chris took us on a bit of a private excursion one morning with two Red Paddle SUPs so we could nab a few shots — thanks for that Chris! After rounding off our mornings with a spot of lunch — usually consisting of fresh local produce, picked straight from the gardens of our accommodation — we would sit idly gazing upwind at the approaching wind line heading south from Cephalonia. At around 3pm the breeze would blast out of the port which signalled it was time to head down to the centre and get wet. We had everything from maxed 5m weather Fi was on a 4m at this point! With few other windurfers at the centre we had the pick of whichever kit we wanted with generally only members of staff joining us on the water. Zante truly delivered for us and if the conditions we had during our stay were bad, then we will definitely be heading back to hopefully score some better sailing. Peligoni lends itself to intermediate freeride and freestyle sailors and although you can learn here, our experience of the wind in the morning was near to non-existent. This may vary week to week though. Tez Plavenieks is a freelance writer who loves windsurfing, SUP, surfing, snowboarding, drums, art and beer. Check out more at www. A new generation of kids are coming through our sport and luckily for them they now have equipment that helps them progress, rather than breaking When we heard that two young rising stars from the UK were shacked up with fellow UK windsurfer Adam Sims out in Fuerteventura, we had A few weeks ago Jamie Drummond took to the waters of Vassiliki to spin round loops for cancer research. Boards has already covered the Simon Bornhoft runs a whole world tour of windsurfing clinics, helping thousands of windsurfers progress their skills. Check out the recent action and improvements from Catch up with Sam to Please enter your email so we can keep you updated with news, features and the latest offers. If you are not interested you can unsubscribe at any time. We will never sell your data and you'll only get messages from us and our partners whose products and services we think you'll enjoy. Cookies help us deliver our services. By using this website, you agree to our use of cookies. Learn More. Home Share Search. Topics: Starboard tushingham. Features 5 of the Best Kids Sails A new generation of kids are coming through our sport and luckily for them they now have equipment that helps them progress, rather than breaking Learn More Accept.

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