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After the manic city life of Athens I felt tense and restless. It had been a desperate and exhausting rush to get to the ferry on time. The walk through Piraeus port was much longer than I anticipated, with the lack of clear signage and unhelpful ticket booth operators frustrating us to our limits. Complaining tired children, rolling luggage, and the hot Mediterranean sun. Fast-forward 3. The sun was low on the horizon when the ferry pulled into Kythnos harbour. As I stepped off the ferry and onto our very first Greek island, like a natural reflex, my shoulders unclenched, my muscles relaxed. I could feel my cares and tension dissipate like fumes blown away by the sea breeze. There is nothing more wonderful than finding a place that gives you that feeling. We took a train from our hotel in Athens to the port. From the port we walked to Terminal 8. It was much further then we expected and our tired children constantly complained as we continued at a brisk pace, watching the relentless clock tick by. We asked several times before finally locating the booth we were to pick up our prepaid ferry tickets from. Phew, the ferry was there and waiting, so we climbed aboard, stored our luggage on the lowest deck of the ferry, handed our tickets to the crew member waiting at the entry stairs, and rode escalators to the top. It was a lovely boat, not what I had expected at all. We found ourselves in a sitting area with a food stall and decided to plant ourselves there at a table with comfy chairs. After a bite to eat prices were not exorbitant and a little walk around the vessel we retreated to our laptops and iPads. The time went by fairly quickly and before we knew it we had arrived at our first Greek island, Kythnos. There was an announcement in multiple languages on the PA system to ensure no one missed their stop, but it was a very fast disembarkment, so beware. It covers an area km 2 and has about km of coastline, with more than 70 beaches, many inaccessible by road. Mr Kosmas Garderi, who is responsible for tourism on Kythnos, along with Matina, a delightful lady who teaches English on the island, welcomed us. Matina was our translator and tour guide for our visit to Kythnos and did a marvellous job. Our hire car was ready for us to collect from the port and drive away. We followed our tour guides via car over the mountains of Kythnos to the eastern side of the island, to the gorgeous village of Loutra. As if things could not get better, we followed a very small winding dirt road to the most adorable guesthouse, sitting alone on the hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea just mere steps away. While the owners never spoke any English to us we managed to sit down several times together as they continuously offered us tea, traditional homemade biscuits and even a shot of liqueur to celebrate our departure. I will never forget our hosts generous, loving nature and the way they made me feel immediately at home, regardless of the language barrier. We had a 2-room suite in a classic white painted house complex. The front door opened up into a small kitchenette, with a small bathroom and adjacent double bed. Behind our bed was a second room with 2 single beds for the kids, complete with wardrobe. It is hard to describe how life could be any better as I sat on that balcony, reading my favourite books and soaking in the nature splendour, marinating in the serenity. Think I may have left a piece of my heart there. The sun set quite late and we enjoyed the golden glory of glitter on the bay in Loutra. The next day our guides showed us around the island. Connected to the main island by a curved sandbar, these bays turn into a popular boat anchoring point in the height of summer. We enjoyed a remarkably tasty lunch on the beach in Merichas. I loved this little village, it had so much character, as did the owner of this restaurant. Mia was slightly spooked by the octopus drying in the salty air which provided a few memorable laughs over lunch. Chora is often referred to as the city centre or capital of the island. You can find one on most Greek islands. Our first Chora was the picture-perfect Greek village that looked like it stepped out of a travel magazine. What struck me was how clean the buildings were, since they were so white. Apparently they are painted frequently, almost monthly, for festivals and parties. We wandered through the narrow streets marvelling at the architecture. Most shops were houses or vice-versa. The kids found a giant swing in the middle of town. Two woven ropes fixed to a wooden beam. Its place in the city is mired in tradition as in Easter every year the single ladies sit on the swing awaiting a suitor. Talk about pressure! Most Greeks follow the similar Italian lifestyle with an afternoon siesta. Breakfast is eaten quite late and lunch usually follows about 3pm when the kids are home from school. It is the biggest meal of the day. After lunch everyone is quiet, napping or relaxing until about pm when they return back to their shops and restaurants to stay open through the evening. Often eating dinner around 10pm. While we often tried to eat around these times, we struggled greatly and eventually had to kindly ask our guides to adjust the dining schedules closer to our normal midday meal and 6pm dinner. But we did enjoy the moment to rest that day and soak in the delicious views on Kythnos before heading to dinner in the evening. Dinner on our 2 nd night was at Araxovoli on the beach in Loutra. We loved dining on the beach. The kids were occupied playing with sand and water, which always makes for a more peaceful meal for us parents. The next morning we met a new guide who had arrived from Athens by ferry just for us - a geologist who spent his summers in Kythnos introducing people to the biggest cave in Greece. Found in the hilly village of Dryopida Dreopedia , it was a short walk to reach the cool, dark depths of this cave. Originally discovered in , the cave was mined for iron until During the Second World War it became a shelter for the locals. In addition to the tourists, this unique formation still holds immense value to the locals. We were fascinated with its stalagmite and stalactite formations. The kids loved running around and were covered in red dust when we exited. It was a highlight of their stay, as well as ours, on Kythnos. Our wonderful guide then drove us to his parents home in Flambouria, where most families only remain in residence during the summer. The authentic experience was an absolute delight. Afterwards we went to lunch in Merichas, enjoyed a brief siesta at our hotel and then headed to Chora for dinner under a longstanding grapevine. The next morning we attempted a visit to the Hot Spring baths in Loutra but they were not open for the season just yet. The ocean was ice cold, but the small rocky pool formation held hot water channelled from the nearby spring. The kids were in awe and so were we as we witnessed the eager Russian tourists swim from their yachts to the shore and then pounce in the boiling waters of the hot spring. We were completely full by the end of that visit, but it was just the brunch. Lunch was still coming! Matina then took us to the village of Kanala where during the year approximately 5 families reside. This swells to over people during the summer. There is an important Church in this village overlooking the bay that holds a historic painting found nearby in the sea around AD. The elevated position also provides unparalleled views of the town and sea. Afterwards we took a sneak peek at several new holiday apartments and envisioned a return to the island for a longer stay. The Owner of the apartments also excelled in Greek hospitality and did not let me go without another bottle of wine and this sweet little Greek hat. You like? We enjoyed an immensely tasty lunch in Archipelagos restaurant overlooking the bay and rememorised our favourite moments over the previous few days. Unfortunately we could sense our imminent departure was on the horizon, something we had resisted for as long as possible. But as they say, all good things must come to an end. Kythnos really surprised us. Away from the crowds, away from the tourists, we found fun things to do, fascinating places to see and the most exquisite food and hospitality. We were welcomed into the arms of this quiet island by its local residents. And while we stood out like only an Aussie family of four can, we felt like we had come home to family. And many of the international tourists to Kythnos arrive by sailboat while sailing around the Cyclades. In some ways I found it so hard to write about Kythnos because I fell in love with it unlike anything before. The locals crave for the popularity of Santorini or Mykonos, but I find Kythnos a peaceful oasis in a somewhat crowded race for the tourists preferred summer island. Athens can be intense for a first-time visitor. It can feel completely overwhelming to try to absorb…. The Greek Islands are a dream destination on every bucket list. The famous Classical period ended over 2, years ago, yet when we think of Athens, we still imagine Aristotle, Socrates,…. Are you planning a cruise in the Mediterranean Sea? Sailing along sparkling deep turquoise waters between paradisiac islands on a Mediterranean cruise is the kind of stuff travel…. 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Long time ago now, I can see, but I thought you'd be interested in a blog entitled Wild Days in Greece - by a West Cumbrian comic novelist, John Murray, who moved to the island full time about 6 years ago. Like your photos, his are wonderful observations and reflections of life on that very unusual Greek island. The island doesn't change. I've been there a couple of times in the winter time and learned it is so very different to the more touristy resorts across the Cyclades. I'm intrigued about you travels and will explore your website further. An essential travel gadget for I'll help make your next vacation awesome with first-hand guides and essential travel tips. Mont Saint Michel welcomes over 3 million visitors each year, all of us eager to step back in time and experience a slice of medieval magic. This iconic island is a symbol of…. The world of high-risk adventure sports beckons, promising thrills that make ordinary vacations pale in comparison. By following the advice in this article, you can ensure your…. Share Tweet Pin. If you enjoyed this article, you might also like How To Discover Modern Athens In 5 Easy Steps years of history is impossible to ignore in Athens, from your first glimpse of the iconic Acropolis, to ancient remnants scattered throughout the city centre. Reader Comments I look forward to your feedback' - Josh Bender I would like to thank you once again for your kind words and tell you that I am really glad to have met you all. Matina Jun 15th, Beautiful makes want to visit Karin Jun 15th, Marta Mar 1st, Please type the letters and numbers shown in the image. Hi there! Follow me on Twitter for updates. France Aug 21, Travel Hacks 7 Tips for Staying Safe in High-Risk Adventure Sports The world of high-risk adventure sports beckons, promising thrills that make ordinary vacations pale in comparison. Travel Tips Aug 28,

Kythnos: The Outsider of the Cyclades

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By Dimitris Karaiskos June 29th, On the edge of the Aegean Archipelago there is an island located close to the ports of Attica, but remains quintessentially Cycladic in character. It was never particularly popular with tourists, but, in more recent years, this is radically changing. Just two hours from Lavrio and three from Piraeus, the affable and welcoming Kythnos — a hidden gem in the Cyclades — offers a glimpse into a rare innocence that, sadly and inevitably, has an expiration date. Here, every spot of land has been cultivated. At the point where the drywalls made to the measure of man are transformed into megalithic structures that appear to have been constructed by giants or demigods, it is clear that we are entering the ruins of an ancient citadel. In the distance we discern something that brings us back to the present day: a thin strip of sand surrounded by two seas. This is the famous Kolona beach , the backdrop of numerous summer photographs. We observe the small number of boats anchored there, knowing that there will be a veritable fleet here in the summer. We begin our afternoon hike in that direction, taking advantage of the opportunity to admire it empty. On the way we come across another beach: quiet, long, with tamarisk trees and crystalline waters, that goes by the bizarre name of Apokorousi. Deathly quiet, it seems as if we have come to the end of the world — our guide, Giorgos, informs us that the place is teeming with people in the summer. Thankfully, it is peaceful today, and the large white hull of a traditional boat dominates the view, with two men working onboard. It is a large tourist boat, one of the vessels that transports people from Merihas to Kolona beach. One of the men is Alekos Vitalis, the owner and captain. Further along we spot a varkala, a single-masted yacht with a high stern, also owned by him. A hull from Hydra, made on Syros, now on a beach on Kythnos: one more unknown adventure of traditional Greek wooden shipbuilding. We continue our walk towards the quiet setting of Kolona, and the beach bar that is packed with visitors in the summer is empty. We enjoy a glass of wine above this impressive sliver of sand, and soon a speedboat comes to pick us up and take us back to Merihas. The captain is a kind young man and the small vessel skips over the waters that take on mysterious hues in the twilight. In the evening we visit Messaria — the Hora. This welcoming island haven serves delicious local cuisine, our first steps into the gourmet miracle that is the local cheese. We are in a beautiful square that could be anywhere in the Cyclades — in the Hora of Amorgos, Folegandros, or even in the villages of Tinos. The staff is polite and everyone around us is smiling, as if they know they are in a blessed place. The next morning we continued our exploration in Messaria. In a central spot, next to the chapel of Panagia tou Kastrou with its semi circular steps, a kafenion traditional coffee shop , a clock tower and a small park with blooming flower pots and the busts of old local benefactors, we can see a two-storey mansion that dominates the landscape. This was the house of Margiora , a powerful woman from Kythnos in the first half of the 20th century, built by her grandfather in The house has been fortunate enough to see a new, multicolored lease of life in the hands of her great-grandson, architect Fontas Dialismas. With his friend and partner, Michalis Danessis, they converted it into a stylish hangout that serves eclectic food, coffee and cocktails, while also boasting a select wine list and a small delicatessen selling quality local products. Of course, it was named after his great grandmother, and so the legacy of matriarchal figure of Margiora lives on. A few meters away, Giannis Paganelis, who worked as a journalist for many years in Athens, was also inspired by his island heritage to return and set up the pastry shop Tratamento , creating exceptional treats. As he enthusiastically tells us about the fine quality ingredients he uses, we gaze around the store that seems to have come from another era; a fairytale in some village somewhere near the open sea. A couple of steps down the road and the art of local gastronomy is replaced by the art of local ceramics. Yet this is not the only local tradition that goes strong: traditional cheesemaking techniques are also being kept alive by the new generation. At the local cheesemongers shop, Kythnios Tyros , we meet two women, Garyfallia Manesi and her sister Filippa, who decided to stay on their island and invest in its local traditions. Reaching our next destination, Dyopida , we feel the island is growing bigger, almost acquiring two main villages, two sides. This settlement is a cluster of houses with red tile roofs. It does not resemble the stereotypical Cycladic image of Hora, and this is most likely due to the presence of red tiles, brought by the local potters who went to Athens to work in the kilns. But still, we wander around the narrow streets, exploring the twists and turns, small squares and chapels that suddenly appear : Dryopida is a veritable labyrinth. As soon as we enter Katafyki Cave , the warmth of the spring on the brink of summer becomes a refreshing respite. We can imagine the emotions felt by the locals as they sought refuge here from pirates in ages past, and we can hear the joyous music from the traditional festivals. The ruins of the main buildings of the old mining company stand in Lefkes as ghosts. Its owners, Aria and Nicholas, welcome us to their island kingdom, where the winds do not blow and, as we learn, the sea is packed with moored yachts in the summer. The island songs they play and improvise have a rough quality, something from the old Kythnos that is gradually fading. The next day, the bright morning sun shines its cheerful rays on the bay of Panagia Kanala , emanating a revitalizing light. A pine tree forest hangs above the crystalline waters, and wandering around the small, peaceful houses of the settlement, we stop at Antonides for a dip, a dreamy beach with the islet Piperi floating in the distance. Later, at the local taverna Archipelagos, we indulge in amazing local cuisine; at Gaidouromantra beach we find another dose of Cycladic exoticism, and in Naoussa we spy the seaside chapel of Agios Ioannis Eleimonas Saint John the Merciful , standing like a lighthouse on a peninsula, connected to the island via a small cement bridge. All the landscapes of Kythnos are magical, but we never expected what was waiting above, on a windswept cliff in the northern part of the island. There, at the Venetian castle of Oria , an awe-inspiring land evoking medieval mythology awaited. We observe the cliffs falling into the sunset and the Kythnos — Tzia strait with bated breath. Gazing over Sklavos beach, meters below, we imagine stories of knights and seamen from the Middle Ages. On our last day we visit Loutra, the seaside village known for its hot springs that have been popular since the age of Queen Amalia. The former tourist bath facilities designed by Hans Christian Hansen and Ernst Schiller and the Xenia hotel , abandoned for some time now, are being prepared for a second lease of life in the hands of an Israeli businessman. Next to us, the sailing yachts come and go non-stop. The following morning, sailing into its gusty, wavy waters, with a crisp northerly wind dancing on the return ferry, it seems as if the castle of Oria is watching our every move. Nestled on the cliffs, it surveys the entire open sea, certain that only those who respect and understand its history will visit it. Stretching out below, Kythnos seems innocent and pure — one of the last paradises in the Aegean. Lavrio is the closest port to Kythnos, and the journey depending on the vessel can take anything between 1 hour 45 minutes and 2. The journey from Piraeus takes about 3 hours one way ticket, from 27,50 euros. Lastly, it is connected to many other islands, making it a popular option for island hopping. Chora Kythnos Suites Hora, T el. A luxury selection, just a 5-minute walk from Hora. Small suites with careful attention to details and Cocomat mattresses. Services on offer include a large hotel swimming pool, fully equipped gym and hearty breakfast. Suites from euros. Kontseta Guesthouse Merihas, Tel. A traditional guesthouse located high above the port and the marina at Merihas. The rooms are simple and tasteful, with lovely sea views. The guesthouse is run by a particularly welcoming family. Double rooms from 85 euros. A family business that offers accommodation in a series of tasteful apartments, just 50 meters from the hot springs and 20 meters from the sea. Double rooms from 50 to euros. Ostria Merihas, Tel. A seafood taverna on the pier, next to the fishing boats of Merihas. The owner, Manolis, is exceptional on the grill and the service is top notch. A classic and traditional taverna — grill house in a picturesque square in Hora. Courteous service, good value for money. Archipelagos Kanala, Tel. The polite owner of this exceptional taverna, Dimitris Bouritis, selects the finest local ingredients and his mother is an amazing cook. The sfouggato is a must-try, as well as the revithada chickpea soup and some of their cheeses, such as trimma and kopanisti. Katerina Loutra, Tel. A traditional taverna on a patio with wonderful views towards Loutra. For fresh fish and lobster in the picturesque bay of Agia Eirini. Margiora Hora, Tel. A restaurant, wine-cocktail bar and delicatessen in an impeccably renovated mansion in Hora. Traditional Ceramics, G. Georgouli Chora, Tel. Small eclectic boutique on the sea, in the bay of Agia Eirini, featuring boho garments and accessories by Greek designers. Kythnios Tyros Voudomandra, Hora, Tel. A modern cheese production facility under the management of two young local girls, Garyfallia and Filippa Manesi, that produces the finest dairy products in limited editions. Tratamento Hora, Tel. A pastry workshop that uses pure local ingredients. Every dessert is a handmade masterpiece. Amazing amygdalota Greek almond cookies. Experience Kythnos Giorgos Vadivoulis, Tel. Powered by: Relevance Developed by: Stonewave. Aegean Islands. Toggle navigation. Cycladic light and color: Children enjoying the sunshine in Messaria, the Hora of Kythnos. Greece Is Aegean Islands. Alekos Vitalis carries out maintenance work on his tourist boat in preparation for the summer season. At Kythnios Tyros, the traditional cheesemongers in Messaria. From Dryopida to Antonides Reaching our next destination, Dyopida , we feel the island is growing bigger, almost acquiring two main villages, two sides. The impressive landscape at Oria, with the ruins of the Venetian castle left. The myths of the castle All the landscapes of Kythnos are magical, but we never expected what was waiting above, on a windswept cliff in the northern part of the island. Thank you for signing up! Share This Page. Greece Is Blog Posts. Most Popular. Editor's Pick gods, science and surgery: medicine in ancient greece. Athens athens insiders: 6 locals offer their own top tips. In Depth how an american businessman ended up in amyntaio making wine. Legal Terms of use Privacy Policy. Social Media.

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