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Route 36 is an illegal pop-up lounge bar located in La Paz, Bolivia where cocaine is served by the gram on a silver platter, along with the cocktail of your choice. It also seems to be somewhere literally everyone knows about, which leads you to suspect that, for it to remain open, there may be an element of corruption at play. Of course, while everyone knows of it, not everybody knows where it actually is. After provoking blank faces from three cabbies, we eventually found our man. He quoted us 15 bolivianos just over a buck and took us on our way. The only hiccup on our journey was the roadblock we had to circumvent. The day before our taxi ride, at the end of July, those demands were delivered by way of dynamite set off in the middle a busy road. This is the sort of climate in which La Paz has resided for the past few years; tourists indulging in artisanal local drug services, while protests rage every couple of months, from soldiers demanding better working conditions to the disabled campaigning for better welfare support. Arriving at the bar, we were almost manhandled through a four-foot opening in what looked like a garage door by the three young Bolivian men who were rather inconspicuously standing guard outside. It was delivered to us instantly. Route 36 changes location as soon as there are complaints from the locals. According to a few of the guys sat around the table, it had been here for several weeks. There were around 20 people in the bar. We were sat with eight English gap year kids, two Belgian professionals, and the Norwegian. Half a dozen Irish businessmen were sat on the opposite side of the bar, definitely the most wound up and coke-y of everyone in there, in addition to two bar-women, the hostess, the DJ who kept playing fucking terrible dubstep , and two security guards constantly pacing around. In the Andes, the leaf is considered a sacred commodity, and President Evo Morales is a staunch defender of its medicinal and nutritional qualities. And he makes a very valid point; its cultural importance for Andean people, who have chewed the leaf for thousands of years, is primarily to relieve altitude sickness, not facilitate four-hour house party conversations with your boss about how to improve workflow. Since legalizing coca cultivation after he was elected in , Morales has repeatedly insisted that coca is not cocaine, calling on the UN to remove it from its list of prohibited drugs. I had to excuse myself from pleasantries and introductions to rack up on the cut-out surfaces that the bar had provided. Unsurprisingly, I became chattier than usual as we all exchanged life stories and travel tips. This place was a far cry from their experience that day. The bar had a deal going, so Josephine and I pooled our cash with our two new friends to get four grams for the price of three. Suddenly a charismatic—but a little wet behind the ears—Swedish guy pitched up next to us and started passing lines around for everyone. I had to show him how to snort the coke. He was the kind of man who would get busted in a second anywhere besides the security of that box, and his entrance summed up the ease with which one can locate the place. By 5 AM I was pretty wired, chain smoking cigarettes and talking very much at people rather than with them. At around half 6, a woman in her fifties asked us if we wanted any weed, trying to avoid the gaze of the bar-staff. Photo by Zxc via. By Manisha Krishnan and Keegan Hamilton. By Drew Schwartz. By Nathaniel Janowitz. By Manisha Krishnan. Share: X Facebook Share Copied to clipboard. Videos by VICE.
Child street addicts smoking crack cocaine. Cochabamba, Bolivia.
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Jul 20, Bolivia , South America. Not sure why we came here, something to do with visiting a friend and it being half way between La Paz and our next stop, Sucre. Rumors abounded of the city being unsafe with very few tourist attractions so what better time to arrive than We already had a place reserved with the same owner as our upcoming La Paz apartment so that was a good start even if it was in the not-so-attractive area. We decided to flag a taxi to take us the supposed four or five blocks to the apartment where her uncle was awaiting our arrival — not sure how long he had been waiting as the bus was probably two hours past its due time! The taxi drove farther in the hundred yards in the opposite direction to make a U turn than he did to get to the apartment, but better to be safe than sorry. Our digs for the next five nights were on the seventh floor and in a city at an altitude of meters lugging our backpacks upstairs turned out to be an unpleasant end to the evening. We did luck out as the views of the city were amazing and the apartment was extremely clean with all necessary amenities. Cordillera Tunari mountain range. Cristo de la Concordia Christ of Peace overlooking the city. La Cancha market and the bus station are right center. It was so cheap and it makes you wonder how so many people can sell the same items and still make a living! A stormy looking 14 de Septiembre main plaza. A sunny looking cathedral and main plaza. The lowlight of the town for both of us was the constant gathering of glue sniffing street kids, locally known as Los Cleferos, hanging out directly below our apartment window. The addiction had no boundaries, affecting adult men, women and children, and however sickening it was I would continuously be watching their antics from the window. Sometimes they were curled up around each other, sometimes we could see them squatting to pee on the sidewalk and more often than not they were passed out on the side of the road, or even in it. They were continually passing around multiple plastic bottles of glue and two liter bottles of what looked like soda but probably was some sort of alcohol. This was our first sign of the poverty and destitution that occurs in Bolivia and we were blown away by the fact that the authorities, the police and the general public walk on by and turn a blind eye as if nothing is happening! Fortunately there are local NGOs trying to alleviate the problem and steer street kids away from this downward spiral, specifically one where our friend Josh was volunteering, Performing Life Inc. The work they do is pretty amazing but sadly only touches the tip of the iceberg! Also through Josh, we had the chance to go to the opening of a small Mexican restaurant just outside of Cochabamba where all proceeds go to CECAM , another small local NGO that improves living conditions for poor Bolivian families through the development and manufacture of solar and efficient cookers. Donations can be made to both of these NGOs by following the above links and will be greatly appreciated. A very bad situation with many destitute people of Cochabamba. This guy was missing his foot and was on the way to meet his high friends. Passed out and people just walked on by. We also did it at dusk which made us even more vulnerable! It was a nice walk other than hearing Andrea whine and complain about having just completed her Blogilates workout and not expecting to now be walking uphill for thirty minutes. Suck it up honey, suck it up! The views of the city were impressive and the statue up close had a very good resemblance to Christ the Redeemer in Rio. Perhaps due to the fact that all thirty three meters were modeled after it, except the Bolivianos tacked on an extra few inches as they say that Christ lived for thirty three years and a bit, hence the extra height. Cristo de la Concordia overlooking Cochabamba a very close resemblance to the Rio icon on the right. Cristo Redentor overlooking Rio de Janeiro. Christ of the Peace holding the moon. His stats. We noted a couple of observations on our walks throughout the city, notably the use of barbed wire to protect the small trees planted on the sidewalk and around the central plaza, and the use of children by their parents to make money from, amongst other things, busking, singing on buses, or dressing in traditional clothing. Maybe some of them were budding entrepreneurs operating on their own initiatives, but the morally wrong use of children was rife for sure! Barbed wire right alongside where people walk. Busking for money, probably destined to his parents. Your email address will not be published. Yeah, thought you did. July 14th — July 20th Submit a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.
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