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Battambang, Cambodia

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Battambang is a dingy balcony over a deserted street. Battambang is a tangle of electrical wires sagging in the heat, is a patch of sand between busted-up sidewalk, is discarded amusement-park bumper cars fading in the sun. We wandered through nameless, signless streets, past shutters and padlocks and beach umbrellas with no one under them, looking for a guesthouse. We ventured out for coffee, through the wilted market, strewn stalks of sugar cane and vegetables rotting in the heat. The open lot across from the evening carnival, sleeping in the mid-day sun, reminded me of an old Freddy Kueger movie, dogs sniffing around the menacing clown smiles on the front of bumper cars. It was hard with the holiday to get a sense for the city as it is today. We walked down to the abandoned train station, a sweltering sidewalk lined with New Years decorations that look like tinsel pentagrams. During colonialism, the French built a train system in Cambodia, and it was still used through the 70s. At some point the system disintegrated, and the Battambang train station is proof of it, the clock out front permanently frozen at —a time that comes twice a day, like a train passing, but a year and date that remain silent, that will never pass by again. One man had set up a home in an old warehouse; I glimpsed him, through a crumble in the wall, bathing in his sarong. I smiled anyway. The next day I went out solo to explore the abandoned Pepsi factory. I grabbed a tuk-tuk, a man who insisted I pity him for having to work on New Years. We rattled out there, dirt roads lined with kids throwing small plastic bags of water, a New Year tradition. They smiled at me, waved, but none of them threw a bag at me. I wondered why. The Pepsi factory was a faded concrete building with a well-tended garden. It struck me as a curious juxtaposition—the crates of bottles I could spy through the windows, waiting for a delivery that never came; the burned-out remains of a warehouse further back, where a fire had once raged, fixtures hanging from holes in the ceiling; the barefoot children that wandered around, peeling back strips of corrugated tin and disappearing inside the blackness. All that, next to trimmed grass and perky flowers, a yard free of rubbish, where a couple of families picnicked in the shade of a tree. My tuk-tuk driver wandered over to me, as I balanced up on a ledge, beside shorn hedges, trying to get a photo of the inside of the factory. The factory, he said, had sat empty during the Khmer Rouge regime. Now it was just crates of empty bottles, a silent loudspeaker with its wires disconnected, exposed. He used to work at the factory before the war. After, he had no family, nowhere to go, so he came back. The government let him keep the grounds. He lives back there. He wore an Angkor Wat t-shirt and a krama scarf loosely over his shoulders. The lines in his face were a fine webbing, like wrinkled laundry. I smiled and bowed for our awkward introduction. What do you say to a man like that? I bowed again. It was really interesting for me wandering around the old train station. You did a great job writing it up. I was transported back! So true. Email Address:. Blog at WordPress. You must be logged in to post a comment. Battambang is a dirt road and a child waving, an old man nodding to himself as he walks away. Share this: Share Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Lauren Quinn is a writer and traveler currently living in Hanoi. Lonely Girl Travels was a blog of her sola travels and expat living from to She resides elsewhere on the internet now. Buy This Sh t. Popular Sh! Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Lonely Girl Travels. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Anni on A Year and Counting.

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