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I am wearing about 17 layers of clothing. Clearly, I am going mountain-climbing in the Andes. I find Primrose Hill, near my flat in north London, a challenge, so Lord knows what 18,ft will do to me. It looks as if I am going to die, halfway up a volcano, with an erection. How did I get here? Rewind a week. Turning to my guide, Maria, I mumble some incoherent questions; mercifully she interrupts. You need a drink. Moments later we are sipping from crisp and heady pisco sours, made from the sweet muscat grape. Even better, the drinks come with ceviche, that classically Peruvian dish, comprising all kinds of raw seafood marinated with lime and lemon juice, and often mixed with peppers and corn. I sometimes find ceviche disappointing, but this is tip-top. My first day is on the mend. Refreshed by about 20 hours of sleep, next morning I jump in a car that whisks me west, out of town. Soon the last scruffy suburbs cede to green fields, then rolling hills and gloriously sunlit vineyards. My knowledge of Chilean wine is restricted to the modest observation that Casillero del Diablo is a reliable red. The next two days, however, during which I am comfortably ensconced in an opulent, colonial-style hacienda on the Matetic wine estate, sets me right. Owned by a Croatian-Chilean dynasty, Matetic produces world-class cold-climate syrah and other varietals — and I mean world class. Ranked in the top globally. Who knew? First I am taken on a tour of the remarkable, ultra-modern winery. I want to go for a walk and I wonder if I should inquire about hiking routes, but then I realise that I can walk anywhere. I am surrounded by the immensity of South America. This place, the Rosario valley, is beautifully empty, blissful and Edenic. The Andes glimmer in the distance, beyond the gum trees. There are stands of pine and fig — and organ pipe cacti. Meanwhile, locals drink Kunstmann beer, eat avocado sandwiches and talk about the latest earthquake Chile gets lots of earthquakes, which means very few buildings make it to their th birthday. This, indeed, is my next dilemma. North or south? Instead I shall fly up to the Atacama, the driest and highest desert on Earth. First impressions are not brilliant. Eventually that dwindles into the distance and the Atacaman deathscapes take over, where ochre and russet volcanoes slope to sculpted valleys of sandstone, and blinding white salt flats. In recent years cute and fashionable San Pedro has been adopted by luxury hotel chains and high-end holiday operators. Or three. It has been a whistlestop tour. But Carlos has other plans. We hike down a lunar valley of naked stone. A warm breeze shaves the sand dunes, making whispers of whirring gold. As we climb to the top of one dune, the dying sun turns the Andes into an immense and amethystine curtain of glowing rock. Carlos points at one of these purpled peaks. And so, here I am. This is where we came in. And what about crampons? Or oxygen? In brooding silence we drive to 16,ft, my heart thumping like a Burundi drum. Clambering out — already panting — we begin the slow ascent, drinking water every ten metres, slapping on more sunblock every six metres. Eventually we are stopping every three metres, so I can have a five-minute break. And then, as my headache threatens to turn into a migraine, I take the last agonising step and I reach the top. This is it. I feel like a year-old with sciatica. I also feel a kind of wistful ecstasy. The price includes flights, first-class hotels, full board at Awasi including alcoholic drinks, breakfast and dinner at Matetic and breakfast at Luciano K. Transfers and excursions are also included. Where to stay in Chile, by Ben Clatworthy. Explora Hotel, Atacama When this gorgeous property reopens just before Christmas, after major renovation, expect sumptuous rooms with huge windows — offering great views to the desert — whitewashed walls and wicker furnishings. Luciano K, Santiago Santiago is cool and cosmopolitan with great museums, restaurants and wild parties. The boutique art deco hotel Luciano K opened in the spring in a property designed and constructed in the s. Remota, Puerto Natales With floor-to-ceiling windows and minimalist design throughout this intriguing hotel, just outside the small town of Puerto Natales, is quite a find. The rooms are cosy but basic, and offer sweeping views of the surrounding lake, mountains and ice fields. Hotel Antumalal, Pucon Built in the s with Bauhaus-inspired architecture, this quirky hotel flanks the southern edge of Lake Villarrica, with great views down to the water. There are 23 rooms, each with its own fireplace, and furnished with sheepskin rugs and throws woven by locals. This month a new Lake House opens down on the shore. Lapostolle Residence, Santa Cruz With just four casitas, gourmet food and unrivalled service, this is arguably one of the best lodges in Chile. Each casita has a downstairs living area with antique furnishings and a fireplace. Upstairs the art deco doubles are bright and spacious with huge windows offering views of the vineyards. Details One night full board is from pp , latinodyssey. You must update your payment details via My Account or by clicking update payment details to keep your subscription. Update payment details. We've tried to contact you several times as we haven't been able to take payment. You must update your payment details via My Account, otherwise your subscription will terminate. Accessibility Links Skip to content. Login Subscribe. Log in Subscribe. Sean Thomas. Saturday October 22 , The Andes mountains near the borders with Argentina and Bolivia. Cathedral spires in Santiago. The Luciano K opened in the spring. The quirky Hotel Antumalal flanks the southern edge of Lake Villarrica.

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